Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MPLS, MN
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Re: Driveshafts Don't fit
I was asked to offer some assistance to you by one of the administrators. Done this swap more times than I care to admit.
I guess I am going to need a bit more info from you. There are about three different approaches to making axles fit with a late model tranny into an L-body. Lets just concentrate on what parts you have.
Can you tell me what axles you are attempting to use in your Omni for both left and right sides? Looking for an application (not spline count) say L+R auto 88-90 Omni, 2) left auto 88-90 Omni's axles, or 89 Daytona Shelby Z, etc.
It looks like you have a jack shaft (axle auxiliary shaft) out of the larger than L-body cars. Perhaps it came with donor transmission? The GLHT's used a shorter different style jack shaft and bracket with the a525's. Using this longer style jack shaft requires you to use an 88-90 left auto axle on the right side. In fact, you would need to use 2) left Omni auto 88-90 axles. One for the left and one for the right. Using this style of J-shaft, you can't use anything but a 88-90 LH Omni auto axle on the right side. The stock GLHT axle would be too long.
Some CV boots on aftermarket axles, will not clear the transmission on the drivers side. Best to use OEM axles if you can find them. The correct LH axles had a pink tag with the #929, RH side had #928. Might be a long shot that tags are still on axles. Pictured below is the OEM style boot that will clear the tranny on the left side. If used on right side, you would want to remove that counterweight. That was some harmonics damper that Chrysler used for the left hand side only. Also pictured is a FYI photo of length of l-body jack shaft vs. the larger cars. Notice the length difference & style of hanger bracket.
It looks to me that you have the engine tilted WAY to forward than where it should be. This would explain the contact you're having at the subframe/K-frame. Adjusting the top of engine towards firewall will increase your clearance on the bottom with the k-frame. Do you have both front and rear engine mounts attached? Maybe a picture or two of the two mounts would help determine what is going on there.
Hate to say this because it sounds like you purchased a rear bobble strut mount, but there are better aftermarket options instead of the factory bobble strut. Polybushings.com or maybe FWDP might even have some adjustable options for you. Pretty easy to make something more functional if your reasonably handy with a mig or tig welder. Might try doing a search for adjustable bobble strut. IMO, that rear bobble strut is close to worthless. About the only good it does is during de-acceleration. People have been modifying them or replacing them since they started appearing on these cars/trannys in 1987.
Get back to us with some more pictures of the mounts.
Last edited by 4 L-bodies; 05-31-2019 at 11:24 PM.
Reason: added info