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post #1 of 16 Old 05-28-2019, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Driveshafts Don't fit

Hello everyone,

Making some progress on a '86 GLH build. It has a Turbo II in it, and a 568 trans. Both are bolted in the car and I'm trying to install CV shafts. On both sides, the shafts will not fit. If they were to be centered coming out of the diff on the driver side and out of the intermediate shaft on the pass side, they hit the K-Frame. On the driver side it has interference from the trans too. Anyone have any thoughts? I'd think possibly the engine/trans might be out of alignment in their mounts, but idk? I'm am using the proper shafts for the swap I believe. 25 inner and 26 outer spline count. Pass side pic attached. I can get more pics.

Any thoughts appreciated.
Thanks, Tucker
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post #2 of 16 Old 05-31-2019, 03:43 PM
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Re: Driveshafts Don't fit

Tucker,
I was asked to offer some assistance to you by one of the administrators. Done this swap more times than I care to admit.

I guess I am going to need a bit more info from you. There are about three different approaches to making axles fit with a late model tranny into an L-body. Lets just concentrate on what parts you have.

Can you tell me what axles you are attempting to use in your Omni for both left and right sides? Looking for an application (not spline count) say L+R auto 88-90 Omni, 2) left auto 88-90 Omni's axles, or 89 Daytona Shelby Z, etc.

It looks like you have a jack shaft (axle auxiliary shaft) out of the larger than L-body cars. Perhaps it came with donor transmission? The GLHT's used a shorter different style jack shaft and bracket with the a525's. Using this longer style jack shaft requires you to use an 88-90 left auto axle on the right side. In fact, you would need to use 2) left Omni auto 88-90 axles. One for the left and one for the right. Using this style of J-shaft, you can't use anything but a 88-90 LH Omni auto axle on the right side. The stock GLHT axle would be too long.

Some CV boots on aftermarket axles, will not clear the transmission on the drivers side. Best to use OEM axles if you can find them. The correct LH axles had a pink tag with the #929, RH side had #928. Might be a long shot that tags are still on axles. Pictured below is the OEM style boot that will clear the tranny on the left side. If used on right side, you would want to remove that counterweight. That was some harmonics damper that Chrysler used for the left hand side only. Also pictured is a FYI photo of length of l-body jack shaft vs. the larger cars. Notice the length difference & style of hanger bracket.

It looks to me that you have the engine tilted WAY to forward than where it should be. This would explain the contact you're having at the subframe/K-frame. Adjusting the top of engine towards firewall will increase your clearance on the bottom with the k-frame. Do you have both front and rear engine mounts attached? Maybe a picture or two of the two mounts would help determine what is going on there.

Hate to say this because it sounds like you purchased a rear bobble strut mount, but there are better aftermarket options instead of the factory bobble strut. Polybushings.com or maybe FWDP might even have some adjustable options for you. Pretty easy to make something more functional if your reasonably handy with a mig or tig welder. Might try doing a search for adjustable bobble strut. IMO, that rear bobble strut is close to worthless. About the only good it does is during de-acceleration. People have been modifying them or replacing them since they started appearing on these cars/trannys in 1987.

Get back to us with some more pictures of the mounts.
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Todd

Last edited by 4 L-bodies; 06-01-2019 at 12:24 AM. Reason: added info
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post #3 of 16 Old 05-31-2019, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I can't thank you or the administrators enough for the info then! I guess my biggest issue must be the engine tilt or not properly identified axles. The axles I have just came from a box of a whole bunch of them, and I'm not 100% they are the correct ones other than spline count. I am away this weekend, but I will get more pics and info or maybe figure it out and get back to you next week. The plan was the intermediate shaft setup, and I think this one came out of a Lebaron. The axles possibly the same car? Either way, I'll get some more information and pictures soon. Thanks again and have a great weekend!
-Tucker
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post #4 of 16 Old 05-31-2019, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Is there a measurement to take to determine correct engine orientation? I do still have to install the bobble strut. Recently recieved from JD 🙂
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-01-2019, 05:28 PM
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Re: Driveshafts Don't fit

Here is an axle chart that might . Some are different diameter.They can vary 1/2 inch or more.


SHAFT TYPE IDENTIFICATION
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-10-2019, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, sorry about the delay, life is hectic. I'm back with some information!

I guess I'll try to tackle this problem one step at a time.

-The intermediate shaft: definitely looks like I have the longer shaft, not from the turbo Omni. I attached a picture.

- The shafts: Attached is a picture of the shafts that I have. They are type 8 GKN made in England according to the chart from Mopar Racer. They are both identical, but they do not match the pictures of your shafts, 4 L-bodies.. I'm guessing this means I need 2x 88-90 auto omni left hand side shafts? Anybody have any?

-The engine position and mounts: I tried to just include a bunch of pictures of it. In the shaft pictures, it shows the poly bobble strut I got from another member, this is adjustable so would work for my application it seems. Also, it's not in yet though with these pictures. What would be a good engine position? How should I go about getting it?

Thanks again. You guys are super helpful!

-Tucker
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-10-2019, 10:54 PM
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Re: Driveshafts Don't fit

Tucker,
Those axles look too long for an l-body. Can you measure them tip to tip free length and fully compressed? I'll post the same from my 88 LH auto axle. You definitely have the larger jack shaft. That means you need 2) LH auto 88-90 axles. Remember to take the damper weight off the right hand axle.

You probably should try to get the part # off the tranny mount if your not 100% sure you have the correct mount. Come to think of it, I don't think you could have even bolted in the powertrain if you had the wrong mount. It should be #4295256. Part # should be visible from drivers wheel well.

Can't really make out the front mount very well (too dark and blurry). This also needs to be from a L-body. Can you take a couple more pics of the front mount? It should look like the one attached. BTW the turbo L-body used a reinforced mount. A NA mount will bolt up, but it will eventually break. Need to make sure the front rubber isolator was installed correctly if it was replaced. some people install these incorrectly. This could also explain your alignment issues. I'll try to post a picture of that too tomorrow.
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-10-2019, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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A+ response time! I'll measure the shafts tomorrow. Just verified the trans mount with a picture I had. included a pic of it with the new bushing I installed and another pic with its orientation.

Sorry about the bad pic. There is a bit of compression uploading.. but also I need a better picture. I took another but can do better tomorrow.
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post #9 of 16 Old 06-10-2019, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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I did all the rubber bushings on the trans, front, and pass mount, so they could be wrong.
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-11-2019, 03:36 PM
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Re: Driveshafts Don't fit

Okay here is a few pictures for you. Probably best to confirm you have all the correct L-body mounts for your TII/568 l-body swap.
First up is axle length. The tip to tip extended length of the 88 auto LH axle is 24.25". Fully compressed is 22.875" (7/8). In the car, they are somewhere in between. Compressed slightly, but certainly not fully compressed.

Next, want to confirm you have a L-body specific right engine mount. The larger than L-body cars used a different mount.

Then, front engine mount is both L-body specific and turbo specific. As mentioned earlier the non turbo mounts will bolt-in, but they will break eventually. Also note the isolator is directional too. It should be orientated like the mount in the two pictures. I can't imagine the l-body radiator core mount was removed (that the front mount slips into) so I didn't include pictures of that one. LMK, I certainly can post that picture too.

LMK where you are when you confirm these axles, mounts, and isolators are correct for your application.
Todd
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post #11 of 16 Old 06-11-2019, 03:50 PM
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Re: Driveshafts Don't fit

Also do you have a game plan for the rear engine mount that is welded into the crossmember? Looks like the a525 (stock tranny) mount is still in its original location. The 520/523/555/568 mount needs to be located in another spot on the crossmember. Two or three ways to accomplish that too. This one pictured is Polybushings mount welded into a 88 Omni auto crossmember.
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post #12 of 16 Old 06-12-2019, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I've got an update!

I measured the axles lengths, you are correct, they are too long. Something like 25.5" uncompressed and 24" compressed. I'll get new axles from rock auto and be done with it.

Pass side mount is correct, swapped out the larger body mount for the L-body one. The isolator there I couldn't mess up. Labeled for top and engine side.

Attached more pics of front engine mount. The bracket to the frame was removed, so that could be upside down? judging by your pics, the isolator is in correct. The flatter rubber space is closest to the frame. Looking to see if it is the correct turbo L-body bracket, it is definitely L-body. but it only has 1 of the two extra support brackets you show welded on your example? Pics of that included too.

Now on to the rear bobble mount. I got the k-frame powdercoated before I knew I needed to weld on a bracket. I'm not going for big power, so I'm planning on going with the through bolt method. I was reading about a few guys out there having good results with no problems with properly supporting the stock ears and using the biggest possible bolt and so-on.

Thank you again for the support!
-Tucker
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post #13 of 16 Old 06-14-2019, 04:58 PM
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Re: Driveshafts Don't fit

Yeah your front mount bracket going to the radiator core support is upside down. The large hole should be on the bottom.
Your good on the "turbo" front mount. I add that second rectangular reinforcement because it wants to tear where that hole is on the drivers side of the mount.
Making progress!
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post #14 of 16 Old 06-14-2019, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Wow. That's pretty dumb... But glad it's simple! So very gracious for your help, I have also figured out the driveshaft situation too through this 😉 Thanks a lot. I'm sure I'll be back in here with more questions! With this figured out, it's on to shifter linkage (going with the cables)!
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post #15 of 16 Old 06-15-2019, 11:03 AM
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Re: Driveshafts Don't fit

Here is proof that done correctly, a 568 or 555 shifter CAN fit into an L-body and your console will fit too. Once saw dealership do this to a 8K mile very special GLHS Omni and they used an air chisel to make their holes for the cables! New meaning to the word hatchet job!
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Last edited by 4 L-bodies; 06-15-2019 at 03:27 PM.
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