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green connector

Electrical 
6K views 89 replies 3 participants last post by  laurp 
#1 ·
Hi guys,

long time no see.
i am paul from the netherlands with a lebaron issue.
recently i swapped the wiringharness from my 3.0, but the starter won't crank. i had a mecanic looking and he hot wired the starter relay. after that the car started. later it would not start again.
it seems the yellow wire from the start relais makes no connection. i followed the wire inside the car to a green connector under the dash near the main connector and it's is not connected to anything.
does someone knows where that green connector had to connected to?

or does anyone knows if there is a difference between 1990 and 1991 wiringharnes?

thanks a lot
 
#2 ·
Starter circuit wiring is the same for 90-93 AG/AJ body.

The yellow wire to the starter relay comes from the ignition switch.

There will only be power present on the YL wire at the stater relay when the key is in the "Start" position.

The ignition switch on a 90/91 Lebaron is located at the top of the steering column behind the key cylinder.

Your problem may be the same problem I just experienced and assumed was the ignition switch until I removed the switch assembly and saw the real problem.

The tabs on the backside of the key cylinder that engage with the ignition switch break and when you turn the key only the cylinder is moving, not the switch.

Remove the key cylinder/switch assembly from the car, remove the key cylinder from the switch and take a look.

There is a special procedure for removing/installing the key cylinder.

Text Line art Organism Font Diagram


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Product Tool accessory Machine Tool Metal


https://www.autozone.com/interior/i...-ignition-lock-cylinder-lc14510/12478_0_18928

I will not be back home until Monday if you have any problems or questions.
 
#3 ·
Starter circuit wiring is the same for 90-93 AG/AJ body.

The yellow wire to the starter relay comes from the ignition switch.

There will only be power present on the YL wire at the stater relay when the key is in the "Start" position.

The ignition switch on a 90/91 Lebaron is located at the top of the steering column behind the key cylinder.

Your problem may be the same problem I just experienced and assumed was the ignition switch until I removed the switch assembly and saw the real problem.

The tabs on the backside of the key cylinder that engage with the ignition switch break and when you turn the key only the cylinder is moving, not the switch.

Remove the key cylinder/switch assembly from the car, remove the key cylinder from the switch and take a look.

There is a special procedure for removing/installing the key cylinder.

View attachment 255097

View attachment 255099

View attachment 255101

View attachment 255103

https://www.autozone.com/interior/i...-ignition-lock-cylinder-lc14510/12478_0_18928

I will not be back home until Monday if you have any problems or questions.
Hi NAJ,

thank you very much!!
i realize now you really help me a few years ago with alkind off issues.
i believe this is the solution, beceaus the ignitionswitch was loos today.

regards,

paul
 
#5 ·
1)Was the old key cylinder broken?
2)Did you replace just the key cylinder or both the key cylinder and ignition switch?
3)Did you follow the instructions for properly installing the new key cylinder into the ignition switch?
If the key cylinder does not snap in completely/fully to the switch it will not turn the switch when you turn the key.
I had a really hard time getting mine to go in fully/completely so I had my Son do it, sometimes all you need is another set of eyes/hands so you do not get frustrated.

If/When you are absolutely certain that the switch is turning with the key cylinder to the correct positions post back and if it is still not cranking we will go from there.
 
#6 ·
well, i changed the lock and switch from a running car but still no cranking
is it possible there is a somehow a swich orso that prevend starting the car, like for an alarmsytem?
did i mancient that the handbrakelight on the dash is going on turning the key in runposition? in startposition it's not lightning.
 
#9 ·
Just to clarify...
1)What year is the car, 90 or 91?
90 uses Fusible Links, 91 uses a PDC.

Now,lets find out whats missing...

At the starter relay check for power and ground.

1)Red (RD) Constant Battery Power (Black on 90)
2)Yellow (YL) Switched Ignition Power Power will only be present with the key in the "start" position.
3)Brown/Light Blue (BN/LB) Ground Bolted to the Transaxle on a Manual Trans, through the Neutral Safety Switch On an Auto Trans.
4)Brown (BN) Power Output to the Starter Power will only be present with the key in the "start" position providing all other power/ground circuits are correct.

5)Using a 12 volt test light or digital voltmeter verify 12 volts are present on the RD and YL wires.
6)Using an Ohmmeter verify continuity to ground on the BN/LB wire
7)If both 6 and 7 check OK then verify power out on the BN wire with the key in the "start" position.

Whats missing?
1)Power on RD Wire?
2)Power on YL Wire?
3)Continuity to ground on the BN/LB wire?
4)Power output on the BN wire? (assuming 1,2,3 are all OK)
 
#10 ·
the car is from june 1990, the wiringharness is from juni 1991, the engine is from 1993.
i checked for inline fuses, where not present, except one. checked and is oke.
there is continously power on the starter relay;s black wire ('91 wiringharness??)
there is 12volt on the pink wire off the ignition switch. key in acc or start position
there is NO power on red or yellow wiring. key in acc or start position.
ground is oke.

question:
what is PDC in the harness?
should i replace the old wiring again and start from there?
 
#11 ·
You need to check for power at the YL wire with the key in the START position NOT THE "ON" position.
If you do not have power on the YL wire at the starter relay with the key in the "Start" position then you need to check directly at the ignition switch connector.

If you have constant battery power on the BK wire at the starter relay you do not have an issue with Fuses or Fusible Links.

Fusible Links have been used for years, they are all located in the wiring harness coming off the battery + cable.
1990 still used Fusible Links which are a wire placed in the harness and is designed to melt should amperage increase beyond its amperage rating thus protecting the circuit.
The insulation on a fusible link is fireproof so the wire inside melts protecting the circuit with no chance of a fire.

In 1991 Chrysler went to a PDC (Power Distribution Center) on Daytona and LeBaron which replaced all of the Fusible Links with actual Fuses.

I looked at the 1990 Wiring Diagrams Manual and the YL wire does run through a connector before heading out underhood, the connector color is not shown.
It appears to be an 8 pin connector located on a "Pencil Brace at the Left Lower Steering Column.

Besides the factory wiring posted below I am sending you other wiring through PM.

Explaining Fusible Links
Electrical Issues - MiniMopar Resources

1990 AJ 3.0L FSM Ignition Switch/Starter Relay Wiring
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#13 ·
And that is correct since both the RD and PK wires are constant battery power.

You need to check for power on the YL wire with the key in the "Start" position.
There are 4 key positions...

Key Positions
Text Font Line Organism Line art
 
#15 ·
I am assuming you tested the YL wire for power out at the ignition switch.

The ignition switch gets its power from the Red and Pink wires you already tested that were OK.
The YL wire is a power output to the starter relay when you turn the key all the way to the "Start" position.
If you have constant battery power in as you stated but no power is present on the YL wire at the Ignition Switch Connector with the key in the Start position then you have either a faulty switch, key cylinder issue or a connection problem between the switch connector and switch(a terminal could be spread/pushed out/cracked/broken)

Looking at the Ignition Switch Connector in the illustration below...
Cavity #1 YL - Power Out With the Key In The Start Position Only
Cavity #2 DB - Power Out With the Key In The On/Run Position
Cavity #4 PK - Power In From The Battery, Power Will Always Be Present With The Key On Or Off.
Cavity #7 RD - Power In From The Battery, Power Will Always Be Present With The Key On Or Off

Text Font Paper
 
#16 · (Edited)
okay, but i swapped complete ignitionswitch with keycilinder and connector.

well, i found something this evening.
the red wire lighted up with a simple meter to see if there is a connection
now i messured how much voltage the red provide and that was only 7 volt.
i discover a bad connection under the dash and when i pulled the red wire there something happend in the engine compartment.
when i put the key in on position i hear all kinds of sound from relais and ticking near the startmotor, etc.
But .... there is 12 volt on the YL wire in START position.


at least we found something.
a'm getting hopefull again.
 
#17 ·
found a issue on the red wire under the dash. bad connection
i repaired it and now there's 12 volt on the red and pink in OFF position.
also .... 12 volt on the YL wire in START postition. Yeahhhh.
but still no crank.

i do here al kinds of noices at the engine in ON position
relays ticking and a noice from under the engine near the startermotor.

any idea?
 
#18 ·
OK...
Now we know we have all of the proper power in and out at the Ignition Switch so we will move to the Starter Relay.

There are 4 wires at the Starter Relay, Two Power Feeds In, a Ground and a Power Output to the Starter.

Start with #1, if it tests OK move to #2 and so on, if a problem is found and the cause cannot be located or you require more assistance, Post Back.

1)Red Wire - Constant (key on or off) 12 Volts from the Battery
(Either through a Fusible Link (90) or Fuse #66 in the PDC (91/92)

2)Yellow Wire - Switched Ignition Voltage - 12 Volts with the Key in the Start Position.
(If no power is present disconnect the relay connector and ignition switch connector and check continuity on the YL wire between the relay and switch, if there is no continuity the circuit is open)

3)Brown/Light Blue - Ground - Disconnect the relay connector and check for continuity to ground on the BN/LB wire.
There should be less than 5 ohms.
The ground wire is bolted to the transaxle on a manual trans.
On an Auto Trans the ground wire runs through the Neutral Safety Switch so there will only be continuity to ground in Park/Neutral.

4)Brown Wire - Output to the Starter - 12 volts to starter with the key in the Start position.
If tests 1, 2, 3 test OK and there is no power out on the BN wire with the key in the Start position, replace the starter relay.
 
#20 ·
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There are two yellow wires in the same cavity so they both receive power from the ignition switch when in the "Start" position.
1990
YL- Switched Ignition Voltage from the ignition switch in the "Start" position only.
BK- Constant 12 volts from the battery thru a fusible link
BN/LB -Ground
BN - Output to starter, power will only be present with the key in the "Start" position.

1991
YL - Switched Ignition Voltage from the ignition switch in the "Start" position only.
RD - Constant 12 volts from the battery thru Fuse #66 in the PDC.
BN/LB - Ground
(Wiring diagrams are not always correct, the factory may make a change during production and it will not show in the manual because the manuals are published first, that is why they send out corrections to the FSM's to all dealers when mistakes are found, you may very well have a BN wire with a YL tracer instead of a BN wire with a LB tracer. Use your digital multimeter to determine if this is power or ground but it should be the ground)
BN - Output to starter, power will only be present with the key in the "Start" position.

I know you may be feeling frustrated because this is taking so long, online diagnostics are difficult at best and you are learning as you go.
If the car were in front of me this whole process would have taken less than a 1/2 hour to determine what is missing power/ground wise.

I am doing the best I can to describe things to you so be patient and hang in there.
 
#21 ·
Electrical wiring Wire Cable Electrical supply Technology


Fuel line Auto part Engine Vehicle Pipe


yes, i forgot to send pic's.

and now reading you're message i remember the colordifferent in wiringharness.
lack of knowledge iassume.
but very gratefull and happy with you're help.
i'l get there, i'm sure of it.

now, to be sure.
from start/run delay there are two YL wires which i followed.
one of them goes under dash and end's in the green connector witch is not connected to anything (picture)
second wire goes trhu wiringharness to a large connector on the right side of the car. (picture)
YL wire goes directly from ignition to start/run relay?

btw, i'm not frustrated beceause of the car issue.
i really like to do it with you're help and i love to learn.
 
#24 ·
If you hot wired the YL wire and the engine cranked then you know that the YL wire is open somewhere between the ignition switch and the starter relay and all other power/ground/outputs at the starter relay are OK.

1)Locate the open in the A41/14 YL circuit and fix it.
The connector in your pic is the connector shown in the FSM and they say its location is a brace to the left of the steering column, however...
The connector half you are showing should be mounted to that brace and houses the wires that run underhood, so where is the other end?
Follow the YL wire down from the Ignition Switch and see where it leads, it should lead you to the other end of the connector.

Seeing that there are 5 wires in that connector it is a safe bet that when you find the other end and connect the two the car will crank and start.
(My 90 FSM only shows 3 wires)

Let me know how this goes if you find the connector or if the connector is missing and we will go from there.

So, at this point it turns out you were correct in assuming the issue was related to the green connector, sorry we took the long way there but hopefully you learned something you can pass on.

See Image Below...
1)Connector Half From Ignition Switch
2)Connector Half Shown In Your Pic
3)Connector Pinout

Text Floor plan Plan Drawing Media
 
#25 ·
well, i didn't looked yet due to the rain.
i will try locate the connector on the internet, however, maybe you know where it going to from the ignitionswitch to ....
where is you're connector meeting the other half, due you know that?

and also, the 1991 wiringharness does not have inline fuses, except one which goes to the start/run relay.
what replaced the inline fuses. You meanchient they are replaced by regular fuses, but where are they. I did not change the wiringharness in the dash.
 
#26 ·
One thing at a time, lets locate your missing connector/wires, fix that issue and then go from there.
To locate the other end of the connector you only need to follow the harness down from the ignition switch, the harness should only be a couple of feet long so it should not be that difficult.
If you cannot find the other end of the connector then open the harness and locate and follow the YL wire down from the switch.
If there is not a connector present for whatever reason then you will need to splice the harness halves together.
We will cross that bridge when we get to it.

In 1991 Chrysler switched from Fusible Links to a PDC (Power Distribution Center) which has replaceable fuses and stores the relays.
The PDC would be located under the hood behind the engine controller next to the strut tower.

I will not be back until Monday.

Power Distribution Center 91 - 93 Daytona, 91-95 Lebaron

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#28 ·
No, that is not a PDC, that appears to be an aftermarket alarm system.

The factory PDC is underhood, not in the interior of the car.

See the pics in post 26.

The harness you should be looking at will come right off of the ignition switch and run down the steering column.
 
#30 ·
yes, i understud that.
however my car is 1990 with inline fuses.
the new wiringharness is 1991 with no PDC
so now i have a car without fuses connected to the wiringharness which could course fire or very damaged parts.

i swapped the wiringharness back to original and the car is running and driving now, but still have issues.
no mileages and watertemperture and faultcode's 26 and 27. Both injector related. That was the reason for swapping in the first place.
i assume the ecu is not working properley, so i have to find an otherone, EU part.
 
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