Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4 - Page 6 - Turbo Dodge Forums : Turbo Dodge Forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Dodge Daytona, Dodge SRT-4, Chrysler PT Cruiser, Omni and more!

Turbo Dodge Help Urgent help when something goes wrong with your Dodge and you can't figure out what the problem is. Troubleshooting help and the place to post when you're stuck with a broken car and have to get to work the next day.

 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #76 of 237 Old 01-03-2012, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
NAJ
Just A Guy


 
NAJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New Jersey
 
My Ride: 1990 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2 L VNT
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 15.570

Posts: 24,011
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
       
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

Quote:
Originally Posted by CBMDennis View Post
Jan where are these parts used at?

Two -6 AN x 3/8" NPT
Summit Racing SUM-220648 - Summit Racing® AN to NPT Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
-6 AN Female 90 Degree elbow.
Earl s Performance 935106ERL - Earl's Performance Couplers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Also where did you find the loom clamps that insert into a hole like say on the throttle body?
The anodized aluminum fittings were used to connect the vacuum block to the manifold.

Not sure what you are referring to with "clamps that insert into a hole".

NAJ is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #77 of 237 Old 01-03-2012, 10:18 PM
R.I.P Dennis Jarvis

 
CBMDennis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Saint Cloud Florida
 
My Ride: 1988 Labaron Convert
Engine: Turbo 2 2.2 liter
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 5,369
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Cool Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

On the attached pic I point out the clamps you are using. Can up point me in the right direction with part number? I thought I saw one with tit on the backside so you could insert it into a hole like Chrysler did to hold the loom into place.
CBMDennis is offline  
post #78 of 237 Old 01-04-2012, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
NAJ
Just A Guy


 
NAJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New Jersey
 
My Ride: 1990 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2 L VNT
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 15.570

Posts: 24,011
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
       
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

Here is the link where you can get those clamps and almost any retainer you are looking for.

ClipsAndFasteners.com - Automotive Retainers,Clips and Fasteners


The clamps are under fuel injection hose clamps and the 2 sizes for vacuum line are...
8-9.5 mm(fits 5/32 ID hose) and 9.5-11.5 mm(Fits 7/32 ID hose)
NAJ is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #79 of 237 Old 02-03-2012, 06:39 PM
TD New Guy
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: parkersburg wv
 
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 52
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

very helpful information but I have a strange problem. I have a 90 daytona 2.5 turbo 1 .previous owner removed mitsu turbo and installed garrett . the problem is the turbo housing only has one port. The pressure port is not there to send to waste gate solenoid . any ideas besides removing and drilling? thanks
thill is offline  
post #80 of 237 Old 02-03-2012, 06:45 PM
TD Hardcore User!
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Long Island
 
My Ride: Daytonas
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 2,969
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

They are both pressure ports, try putting a T in the line and connecting as if it was on it's own port, worse thing that could happen is it doesn't work.
ChargedDust is offline  
post #81 of 237 Old 02-29-2012, 06:49 PM
TD New Guy
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Salem, VA
 
My Ride: '87 Daytona Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2L turbo II
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 61
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

Anyone have a picture of a set up on a TII?

Kevin

Last edited by WrkInPrgrSS; 03-01-2012 at 02:45 PM.
WrkInPrgrSS is offline  
post #82 of 237 Old 04-22-2012, 08:53 PM
TD New Guy
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Monessen,Pa
 
My Ride: 89 Shelby & 90 ES
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 51
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

Excellent post!!! I gotta get this for mine it just looks so much more cleaned up than what I got going on under my hood.
Shiftn2overdriv is offline  
post #83 of 237 Old 05-01-2012, 09:28 PM
TD New Guy
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Carolina
 
My Ride: 1987 Dodge Daytona
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 11
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

I'm having a hard time figuring out how to do this for an 87 t1.
Akablaaka is offline  
post #84 of 237 Old 05-01-2012, 11:17 PM
R.I.P Dennis Jarvis

 
CBMDennis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Saint Cloud Florida
 
My Ride: 1988 Labaron Convert
Engine: Turbo 2 2.2 liter
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 5,369
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

What problems are you running into?
CBMDennis is offline  
post #85 of 237 Old 05-08-2012, 05:14 AM
Boostaholic
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: MD
 
My Ride: 1990 daytona shelby
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 573
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

OK, I see no one has posted anything about the 90-91 T1. Everything for the T1 is 89
or earlier...so here goes. The main vacuum feed for these cars comes from a pipe that
I'm guessing is screwed into the intake manifold. Can't see exactly where it comes from
for all the wires and crap!! It definately is not screwed into the highside of the intake manifold like the earlier T1 set ups that have been posted there. On the 90-91 T1 setup
there's something (charge maybe) screwed into that port. I also seem to remember reading
somewhere (NAJ) that your not supposed to connect the PVC valve to the vacuum set up. Maybe my old age is getting the better of me. Need clarification on this one because the setup on the 90-91 T1s (at least mine); is as follows: from the main
vaccum feed to a tee, that tee goes to both the PVC valve and the main "POS" vacuum
tee that came from the factory. See "vacuum - how do I replace this" thread for a pic of what I'm talking about. I know from the previous posts, that I need dedicated lines
to the Baro, Purge Sensor, FPR, and Vacuum gauge, and I think that's it, at least according to the diagram. The cruise control comes off of the turbo, same for the waste
gate and the waste gate solenoid. Sound about right? Figured I'd get it straight here
before I got started....
cpfrock is offline  
post #86 of 237 Old 05-09-2012, 07:20 PM
Garrett Booster
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ft. Wayne, IN
 
My Ride: 86 Laser XT
Engine: 2.2 T1
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 254
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

Here are a couple of pics from my installation on an 86 T1.





It is mounted to a piece of aluminum on driver's side of the head using the valve cover studs for plastic covers.

Here is an ebay search link to what I bought:

vacuum manifold godspeed | eBay

Last edited by sparky305; 05-09-2012 at 07:27 PM. Reason: pics
sparky305 is offline  
post #87 of 237 Old 05-09-2012, 11:52 PM
R.I.P Dennis Jarvis

 
CBMDennis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Saint Cloud Florida
 
My Ride: 1988 Labaron Convert
Engine: Turbo 2 2.2 liter
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 5,369
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

Did you delete any thing off this list?
----->map
----->mbc/grainger or solonoid-----wastegate can
----->boost gauge
----->BOV
----->FPR
----->brake booster (if rear vac port on intake is blocked off)
CBMDennis is offline  
post #88 of 237 Old 05-12-2012, 06:33 AM
Boostaholic
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: MD
 
My Ride: 1990 daytona shelby
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 573
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

Sorry, I thought that I had answered this?? Guess not. Probably why I haven't seen any
updates!!!

Ok, I have a line going to the baro that feeds the map so I should be ok there.
Same deal with the FPR.
Not sure where the feed for the gauge comes from but it works fine so I'm guessing
that should be ok too. Probably comes from the rubber dist. "thingy" that I'm trying
to replace.
The brake booster has it's own feed from the intake so that should be ok as well.
Don't think I have a BOV, it's a 90 2.5 T1. I also do not see a BOV connection on the
vacuum line diagram.
As for the "mbc/grainger or solonoid-----wastegate can" Not too sure about this??
The diagram shows a line going from the Waste Gate Solenoid to the waste gate, and into the turbo. The diagram also shows a line coming from the turbo to the air cleaner
and then to the cruise control.???
Also a direct line to the purge solenoid.

The only line I have removed was the larger line coming from the TB. The check valve
had one of the nipples broken and was leaking like a sieve!! I noticed that on some of the pics posted around that this line was capped at the TB. The car seems to run fine
like this. Do I need this line??? Looks like it goes to the vapor canister...
cpfrock is offline  
post #89 of 237 Old 05-13-2012, 01:33 AM
R.I.P Dennis Jarvis

 
CBMDennis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Saint Cloud Florida
 
My Ride: 1988 Labaron Convert
Engine: Turbo 2 2.2 liter
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 5,369
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Smile Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

"As for the "mbc/grainger or solonoid-----wastegate can" Not too sure about this??"

DCTZ wrote this up. Quite informative.

2.2 / 2.5 Liter Engine Turbo Bleeds

#1 Bleed
A bleed is when the air system has an alternate route to let air escape so that the device being controlled (wastegate) will see less pressure. This will make the wastegate open fully at say 10 PSI instead of 7 PSI. Most of you do a bleed combined with the stock solenoid bleed.

#2 Stock Solenoid Bleed
The stock wastegate control system uses the solenoid to create a bleed. The solenoid opens and closes real fast at different rates (duty cycles) to create more and less bleed on the wastegate. The more often the solenoid is open, the more it bleeds, and the less often the wastegate is open, allowing more boost. If the solenoid is open less, the wastegate will see more air pressure, and be further opened, allowing less boost. The solenoid is controlled by the computer by the feedback it gets from the MAP sensor. If the solenoid is stuck closed not allowing a bleed, or if you connect the vacuum line directly to the wastegate, the boost level should be about 5 PSI max. So if you only get 5 PSI your solenoid is likely shot.

#3 G-Valve
A G-Valve does not let air escape but holds it back from the wastegate until a certain pressure is obtained. Then the valve opens allowing the air pressure to open the wastegate. There is a bleed which is not the major controlling factor on the wastegate side of the G-Valve that allows for the wastegate to close again after the pressure closes the G-Valve. If this very small bleed was not on the wastegate side, the wastegate would remain open and you could boost no more than 5 PSI. So maybe some of you consider this small bleed on the wastegate side a bleed that controls the boost? The vacuum line never sees this small bleed.

The 1st 2 systems (bleed and stock solenoid bleed) always puts some pressure on the wastegate allowing it to open a little at low boost. This is what causes some of the turbo lag. A G-Valve does not let the wastegate open at all until is sees the set pressure so it has less lag.

I tossed in a quick layout of the bleed method in use by your car.

I hate to disagree with NAJ, but if you look at your vacuum diagram and follow the PCV valve towards the air cleaner box you will see it hooks up to the air cleaner box. This circuit is how the PCV valve sees a vacuum any time the engine is running, and even if the engine is in boost.

When I converted my T1 over to a T2 and installed a cold air intake turismolover22 posted this drawing so I could retain my Cruise control, PCV valve, etc..

Also inside the air box where the PCV enters is a small air filter. Most people forget they have one and never change it.

I also am posting a pic on one of the many ways to install a g-valve. You can delete and plug off where required the hose from the wastegate solenoid valve and the small 5/32" vacuum fitting on the turbo it's self.

Sorry for rambling!

Dennis
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	wastegate bleed.JPG
Views:	1924
Size:	25.2 KB
ID:	48631   Click image for larger version

Name:	PCV SYSTEM AZTurbo.jpg
Views:	838
Size:	18.6 KB
ID:	48632   Click image for larger version

Name:	CBMDennis pcv vacuum diagram.JPG
Views:	12826
Size:	47.8 KB
ID:	48634   Click image for larger version

Name:	g_valve.jpg
Views:	8983
Size:	18.2 KB
ID:	48635  

88 LeBaron convertible. Msd ignition, 2-piece w/ 52mm, ported exhaust manifold,inter-cooled, converted T2. Running a stage 3 cal. from FWD performance



Gone too soon, you will be missed
R.I.P Dennis, September 3, 1957 - July 7, 2014
CBMDennis is offline  
post #90 of 237 Old 05-13-2012, 02:39 AM
R.I.P Dennis Jarvis

 
CBMDennis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Saint Cloud Florida
 
My Ride: 1988 Labaron Convert
Engine: Turbo 2 2.2 liter
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 5,369
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Installing Vacuum Blocks 84-93 T-1 thru T-4

sparky305 I like the way you tucked away your vacuum block.

Dennis

Last edited by CBMDennis; 05-13-2012 at 12:30 PM. Reason: slight reword
CBMDennis is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Tags
aaron bailey , vacuum block , vacuum manifold

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Turbo Dodge Forums : Turbo Dodge Forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Dodge Daytona, Dodge SRT-4, Chrysler PT Cruiser, Omni and more! forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome