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post #1 of 19 Old 08-02-2019, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Adding a hood vent... bad idea???

Since I got the IC installed, I think it hampered the cooling ability of my 2.5 turbo Daytona. Raising the boost probably didn't help either. Anyways...

The IC is of course sitting in front of my radiator... and as such the temp is harder to come back down seemingly due to it. I know the TII had a different radiator, but when I suggested getting one, as I remember it some were for and some were against. I went with the mechanic's choice.

Driving on the freeway, it wants to creep up to around 215 degrees and sit there. But if I drive for long, it has climber further up and then I have to get off the freeway to let it cool... but I am not 100% sure if it is because my alternator. I also know that having a 3 speed auto is probably culprit having the motor at about 3k RPM around 65MPH.

The alternator sounds like a rock tumbler. I get a both voltage codes...I am guessing one too high, one too low. I think a alternator short was another code. As such I am thinking my temp readings sometimes are wrong. One time I saw the temp drop way too fast. But it raises other questions.

The car is obviously collecting data based off the sensor, which is gathered using electricity of course. The voltage is going up and down. The car assumes the coolant temp sensor is one reading but is another... I think. But I don't want to assume things either.

When I get the alternator fixed I will know for sure. I am also getting a new coolant temp sensor too for just in cases. They are only about $30 or so I believe so mind as well.

Anyways, living in AZ doesn't help the fact the stock style radiator I have, although is new... is now behind an IC.

***********

Now about that hood vent.

I see that the Dodge Charger 2.2 turbo had a cool hood vent which I believe is functional. The 84-86 Daytona has one which I believe is functional. Didn't one vent air towards the turbo?

The airflow path can be interrupted, and hamper cooling the engine I believe.

Can someone that knows what is or isn't proper airflow school me on the subject?

I know I don't want to cut up the hood just to get worse cooling.

I also know that dirt, dust and rain is a factor when adding vents or scoops and don't want to mess things up. But... since Dodge had the Charger 2.2 turbo and Daytona 2.2 turbo with hood vents, I am hopeful this may help my cooling needs.

The oil cooler I have not forgotten. Does anyone know where I can get a high flow water and oil pump? Also, the TurbosUnleashed upgraded oil pan that adds 2 more bottles of oil capacity is of interest. Would the pan help keep temps down?

Thank you guys for putting up with all these questions.
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post #2 of 19 Old 08-02-2019, 06:12 PM
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Re: Adding a hood vent... bad idea???

Shrouding of the radiator and intercooler help. Make sure that all the air that enters the nose goes through each heat exchanger and not around it. Do not use cheap aftermarket 1 core radiators. Make sure all fender liners and splash shields are in place. The wheel wells are under high pressure, if the splash shields are missing then that high pressure enters the engine bay and causes air to not go through the radiator as all heat exchangers work on a pressure differential. Next talk to your Mechanic (AJ right?) about installing an S10 Airdam on the car. It'll create a huge negative pressure area under the car and in the engine bay. As long as everything is sealed up as good as possible will pull air through your heat exchangers much more efficiently. Oh and it also creates downforce for better grip at speed :) With these mods/maintenence items you won't need a hood vent which can be very sensitive to install location. Too far back and you're shoving high pressure air into the engine bay killing all the cooling anyway and causing front end lift. If that happens you'll only see a slight benifit at speeds below 20mph. Not what you want.

The Original S10 air dam vehicle that started the movement.


Works well on non-lbody vehicles including this ShelbyZ with a sealed off under nose, a big FMIC cummins IC and a itty bitty T2 radiator that the car never sees above halfway on the gauge even when it's 105 degrees out. The ONLY Air that goes through the heat exchangers must go through the lower chin spoiler and the vents with the driving lights mounted in them.



Even Minivans can get in on the action.

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post #3 of 19 Old 08-02-2019, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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I need to look under the hood and take some pics up front. Perhaps you can comment if something is amiss?
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post #4 of 19 Old 08-03-2019, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Adding a hood vent... bad idea???

Here is some pics of the modification done to get more air to hit the IC, and radiator.
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post #5 of 19 Old 08-03-2019, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Smile Re: Adding a hood vent... bad idea???

I looked just in front of the radiator... noticed a black looking radiator in front of it. I assume that is a transmission cooler or??? It is very clear to see in the frontal pic showing the IC.

Basically what I saw was the front vents with a IC that has lots of room with the black looking rad then main rad that is silver.

The fan was modified so that there was no gaps around it to pull more air through. Some kind of foam sealed it.

I noticed also, on the sides where the deflector ends, that gap where the engine is exposed and so is the wheel wells... I have no clue if that is normal... optimal... or???

Any opinions on the setup?

Obviously something is not working right, whether it is the mods or the motor is running hotter due to???

But lets do it like this. For this post, I just want to know if the pics show any problems in cooling the motor/ rad.

Also, the race oil pan, a pull through fan, transmission cooler, oil cooler, high flow water pump, or high flow oil pump is some items I am pondering to help cool this Arizona based Daytona down. Hopefully not all of these mods, maybe one or two.

Thanks again for the input!
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post #6 of 19 Old 08-03-2019, 06:29 PM
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Re: Adding a hood vent... bad idea???

Stock computer? If so, the radiator fan isn't turned on until CTS is above 218F when the vehicle speed is above 45 mph. People wire their own fan switch or to an adjustable thermostat in parallel of the stock ECU control.

I changed my factory fan schedule by adjusting the calibration instead.

How are you monitoring the temperature? What's the temperature at before you pull over and let it cool?



The surface area of a TII radiator is a lot smaller than TI radiator, thus TI radiator is better at cooling. When I had the TII radiator, I remember once I saw 227F in the scanner before I pull it over. I tried a bigger fan on the TII radiator, no better. Then I put in an larger surface area aftermarket radiator with the bigger fan, better result. As you already have the TI radiator, how old is it?

TII radiator with aftermarket fan in my Omni



Aftermarket radiator with bigger radiator fan and custom shroud in my Omni
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post #7 of 19 Old 08-04-2019, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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T1 rad
is I think less than a year old
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post #8 of 19 Old 08-04-2019, 08:53 AM
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Re: Adding a hood vent... bad idea???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Tampa View Post
I looked just in front of the radiator... noticed a black looking radiator in front of it. I assume that is a transmission cooler or??? It is very clear to see in the frontal pic showing the IC.

Basically what I saw was the front vents with a IC that has lots of room with the black looking rad then main rad that is silver.

The fan was modified so that there was no gaps around it to pull more air through. Some kind of foam sealed it.

I noticed also, on the sides where the deflector ends, that gap where the engine is exposed and so is the wheel wells... I have no clue if that is normal... optimal... or???

Any opinions on the setup?

Obviously something is not working right, whether it is the mods or the motor is running hotter due to???

But lets do it like this. For this post, I just want to know if the pics show any problems in cooling the motor/ rad.

Also, the race oil pan, a pull through fan, transmission cooler, oil cooler, high flow water pump, or high flow oil pump is some items I am pondering to help cool this Arizona based Daytona down. Hopefully not all of these mods, maybe one or two.

Thanks again for the input!

You're off to a good start, nice to see the lower nose is sealed off. I'd really add an S10 airdam as it will push any air out and a around the wheels thus creating a low pressure zone all the way across the front of the car. Right now some air is bleeding into the engine bay from your wheel wells with the current small deflector.

I'd look at the area where your I/C pipes go through. If you can see through it then air will go through it. Looks like you're missing the flaps that cover up the headlight motor manual crank nobs. Air can go through there. And I'd use thick foam or build some kind of angled flap to cover the gap between the radiator and the upper core support area you pictured.

The black heat exchanger in front of the radiator could be the tranny cooler, or the a/c condensor or both.


Anything above 45mph and the radiator fan becomes a restriction. Or it should if the heat exchangers have the proper ducting to them. Look at the 1000hp F1 cars. No rad fans on them. You need the fan for below that speed.

Now I see you're running an older stock style fan. A 89/90 Dodge Spirit/Plymouth Acclaim V6 fan will bolt on with a little trimming of the top plastic (you'll see when you put it on) has a better larger shroud, a flush motor for more clearance to the engine, and a way better fan blade that'll pull more air but also allow more air through at speed. So I'd look for one at the J-yard and pull one of those too.

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post #9 of 19 Old 08-05-2019, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like I need to get another deflector and cut it up to extend the existing deflector. Also a better fan too.

As for blocking off the wheel wells, anyone here have pics of an example for me to follow?

The 3.0 V6 fan sounds good. Is there a new fan equivelant? Reason is, a junk yard fan may work... Not work or even be in between as it is old and has a worn motor.

The car is going to probably get that new alternator with highest amp output by August's end. Then comes the cooling project...

I saw a guy with an older Camaro have similar problems with heat. He had bought a pull thru fan to supplement the stock fan. It seemed to fix his problem. Having a V8 with not enough gears made highway heat a problem. Not sure if it would work for me since mine might be blockage and turbulent airflow like suggested.
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post #10 of 19 Old 08-05-2019, 09:55 PM
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Re: Adding a hood vent... bad idea???

the 2.6 mitsu K car rad is even larger than the TI rads
-but used a unique shroud that still had the fan towards the driver's side and a large section beside with 3 flaps to let air blow through the other side of the shroud

lol
it uses that final leftmost outer rad mount hole in the top of the rad cradle
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post #11 of 19 Old 08-05-2019, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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That is interesting. I probably will be keeping my TI radiator. The deflector should be modded of course to make sure air doesn't blow into the wheel-wells.

Do you think a supplemental fan to pull air and mounted in front of the condenser or whatever that black thing is, is that a good idea? Or just get a very high flow, high output fan to replace the old one
and set it to activate at around 210 degrees?
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post #12 of 19 Old 08-06-2019, 12:13 AM
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Re: Adding a hood vent... bad idea???

contrary to some advice here I'd try removing those panels under the nose of your 89,90 or 91 ES

87-8 shelby z's were sometimes prone to overheating issues

the 89-91 ES / Shelby front end was different in that it NEVER had the panel in the underside of the nose

and yes I would add the S10 bumper apron

yes the nose will pressurize with the air from under the car and yes it might arguably cause "lift"
IF you could ever get it to go fast enough ..

in the meantime you should have a good source of air coming up from below

and that air pressure under the nose has been proven to cool better than air trying to go through a grille

because again once the compartment pressurizes it won't flow so much as the air will try to slipstream around the pressure mass in the front end instead of going through the grille openings so instead it flows over the car rather than through it

and best of all it's only a handful of fasteners to remove for a free fix try..

a question we should have asked
did you have heat issues before you stuck the intercooler in front of the rad?
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post #13 of 19 Old 08-06-2019, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Adding a hood vent... bad idea???

If I remember correctly, as I went thru my old posts... what happened is I had the IC installed and the nose modification to block turbulent air at the same time.

I could be wrong... I vaguely remember complaining about fighting the coolant temps since the beginning.

But... I think that the worry of adding the IC which hampers flow would be a cause for concern and thus the deflector was done.

The problem though is being at a constant 65mph or so.
The 3000 to 3200 rpms constantly might be the problem.

It is a 3 speed automatic... too bad I cannot get a 4.

I did here that getting a limited slip differential would drop it about 200 rpms at highway speed, if I remember correctly.

Do you think that a hood vent would help?
Like the one from the Charger or earlier Daytona?

What pains me is if the mod done to the nose is less effective than not having it... I paid to have it done. I also worry about removing it and realizing it did help... and then trying to get it back on and not being able to since I don't have a lift.

Would removing the fog lights help??? Two more spots to blow air in 'should' help I think.

Ahhh man, cars...

Anyone else want to chime in on this to support or not to support the deflector I had installed? It would be helpful.

Thanks again guys!
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post #14 of 19 Old 08-06-2019, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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I think I am writing too much so I will do it like this.

A- Would adding a hood vent or scoop help?
B- Removing the foglights, would that help give more flow?
C- Add a pull thru fan in front of radiator?

Theses were points not discussed yet.
All input is valued, and I am considering all input.
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post #15 of 19 Old 08-07-2019, 08:03 PM
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Re: Adding a hood vent... bad idea???

A, No not if you do the other mods I suggested.

B, Maybe slightly, but if you add an S10 Air dam (don't just extend the stocker, get the S10 piece) you'll pull way more air through the radiator.

C. No now you're just blocking the rad.


My 87 ShelbyZ with a blocked off underside only breathes through those 3 openings in the nose, 2 are filled with driving lights. It's sealed better than yours and has an S10 airdam. The Cummins I/C blocks a lot more of the Rad than your i/c does. I also only run a T2 rad which is much smaller. What you need to do is fix the leaks around the rad like I suggested. My car doesn't get above 190 going down the freeway or any time the car is traveling more than 30mph because the mods I've done pull air through the rad. I was in your boat. I wanted even more heat out of the engine bay. I had a spare hood so I cut out the back of the power buldge on it and mounted it up. Taped some bits of yarn around the opening in various lengths to see what the air flow was doing. At 25mph they ceased to just blow around and sucked the ends into the hood opening. That right there told me I had tons of negative pressure under the hood and that opening the hood just killed the pressure differential going through the radiator. Back went the stock hood.

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