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Front crankshaft seal

5K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  89CaravanFan 
#1 ·
OK so come to find my 89 minivan has developed quite an oil leak, all signs point to front crank seal so I have a couple questions. I notice that there is a couple special tools in the service manual that would make this easier but of course I assume most people don't have them. So for those that have had to replace this seal is it pretty straightforward? I already bought a new timing belt set because that was going to be done soon anyway. Any tips?

Btw, it lost 3.5 quarts of oil in less than 150 miles and get home to see the underside looking like this
 

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#2 ·
You can replace it by using a small pick to poke a hole in the seal, and pry it out. But if you're losing that much oil, there is a chance it is already pushed out...

Then drive the new one in. But, be warned, there is no stop for the seal! Just drive it in until it's flush!

Your other choice is to pull the pan, and the seal retainer and drive it out from the back. But that's a lot more work...
 
#5 ·
But DO NOT use the gasket. Chrysler never used a gasket from the factory. It's virtually guaranteed to leak if you use it. You need to get a tube of the red anerobic gasket maker to seal the retainer to the block.

I made my own gear puller using a piece of steel plate with 3 holes drilled to match the pulley holes. I then used a long punch in the center hole and just tightened up the bolts into the pulley evenly. It slides right off...

If you pull the right wheel and splash guard, the pulley is easily accessable from the passenger side wheel well. No need to pull the motor.
 
#6 ·
Yes, get the special tool to remove the crank gear, or make a tool. Even a small pulley puller will work sometimes if it can get at at least three of the bolt holes and spread around the gear, not three holes in a row I mean. DONT try to slide hammer it off or pry it off, you will ruin/break it for sure. Skip the gasket, as suggested get the red anerobic sealer. Be sure to rub a little lube on the inside diameter of the seal before you install it. You dont want it to start up dry. If you are not in a real hurry, you can almost always find the special tools on eBay for cheap.

Oh, and you might find that you need a torx socket to remove the crank belt pulley. If so, then once removed, most of us replace them with oil pan bolts that have a standard 10mm head/grade 8 automotive black anodized bolts.
 
#8 ·
You will probably have to tap it part way on before the bolt will engage. Be VERY careful doing that though. Don't use a big, heavy hammer on it, you can damage #3 main bearing, which is the thrust bearing for the crank. I used a rubber mallet to drive it part way on until the bolt would engage a couple of threads, then pulled it the rest of the way with the bolt.

I should have clarified my post, the stock pulley has 5 bolts. I used 3 to pull it. 1 on one side, then the two directly opposite. That way you are pulling both sides evenly...
 
#9 ·
I should have clarified my post, the stock pulley has 5 bolts. I used 3 to pull it. 1 on one side, then the two directly opposite. That way you are pulling both sides evenly...

Yeah, this is what I was trying to explain. A hammer or a pry bar anywhere in this process is a real BAD idea!
 
#11 ·
I have used a small multi-position puller (see below)several times to remove the crank pulley. The item pictured below is just for illustration! I have also used a steering wheel puller on the 4 bolt pulley but it wont work on the 5 bolt pulleys.

You just have to buy or rent one that is small enough and then easily locate enough bolts and washes to do the job. All you really need is something with a hole in the middle that is large enough to pass a large enough bolt through and then holes around the outer edges that can align with the holes in the outer portion of the crank gear. You install the edge bolts several threads into the crank gear, then with a nut on the bottom of the puller tool, thread in the center bolt to push/pull the gear off. You do need to be sure that you put something like a long small socket or steel rod or short punch down in the crankshaft hole so that you do not dammage the threads in the end of the crank!

 

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#14 ·
It doesn't HAVE to come off, its a matter of you being able to remove the old seal with the retainer in place or not. You have to remove it w/o gouging the crank surface and then install the new seal w/o dammaging it. If you have the factory tools is pretty darn easy, w/o them you need just some patience and a few tips or two...which were revealed above.
 
#16 ·
#17 ·
Good tip!! I did however end up finding the factory tool and I'll tell ya what, I understand now why there is a special tool set for it, definately took the headache away. And once the crank gear came off behold the crank seal was cocked sideways and basically all the way out. Got the new one in there and was able to push it in flush with my fingers. My issue now is how to tighten the crank gear back down without spinning the motor over???
 
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