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Engine - Turbo & Block Modifications and upgrades to maximize your Dodges turbo output & Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank.

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post #1 of 10 Old 08-07-2019, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Turbo I waste gate check

I have a 1985 Dodge 600 es convertible with a 2.2 Turbo. I'd like to check the wastegate operation but not familiar with the process. Any help or direction is appreciated.
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post #2 of 10 Old 08-08-2019, 05:46 AM
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Re: Turbo I waste gate check

first verify the wastegate actuator (WGA) rod is still attached to the wastegate ..
often the clip holding the rod on corrodes away, then the rod pops off
(more common on Mitsu turbos)

now you need a compressed air source and a 'blow gun' ..
trace the vac line back from the WGA to the electric solenoid on pass side shock tower;
disconnect there, and *gently* use your blow gun to apply compressed air to the line to the WGA.
the WGA should cycle with only 6-8 psi ..
(too much psi applied here could rupture the WGA diaphragm so be gentle)

verify that it is actually cycling the wastegate and that's not seized up.
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post #3 of 10 Old 08-08-2019, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help I'll do it tonight. Is it common for the gate in the turbo to freeze?
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post #4 of 10 Old 08-08-2019, 10:30 AM
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Re: Turbo I waste gate check

Or you can use a Handheld Vacuum/Pressure Pump and then you will know exactly when it is opening.

https://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-mv8500.aspx
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post #5 of 10 Old 08-08-2019, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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So I'm apply pressure not vacuum, correct?
post #6 of 10 Old 08-08-2019, 04:16 PM
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Re: Turbo I waste gate check

yes
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post #7 of 10 Old 08-08-2019, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Got it. Thanks!
post #8 of 10 Old 08-08-2019, 09:40 PM
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Re: Turbo I waste gate check

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Thanks for the help I'll do it tonight. Is it common for the gate in the turbo to freeze?
Typically they don't seize up often, but I've seen my share that were run through the beadblast cabinet and not cleaned thoroughly before being put into use. Then the beadblast material seizes the valve up.
More common that in the rust belt, the eyelet of the turbo actuator rusts off, rendering your wastegate puck to flap around in the breeze creating little to no boost.
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post #9 of 10 Old 08-09-2019, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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So I actually have two dodge 600 that I'm ultimately swapping engines on. I tested the waste gate on both. One I can move the actuator rod to move the waste gate shaft but applied 8psi to the actuator with no movement. I beleive I can hear the compressed air escaping like the diaphragm is leaking.

The other 600 I tried to move the rod by hand and air. Could get the mechanism to move at all. It appears the wastegate shadt is frozen. Is there an easy way to free it up? I've put on blaster on it hoping that will loosen it up.

Do you have a schematic of the turbo which show how the wastegate is configured within the turbo?
post #10 of 10 Old 08-10-2019, 12:13 PM
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Re: Turbo I waste gate check

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
So I actually have two dodge 600 that I'm ultimately swapping engines on. I tested the waste gate on both. One I can move the actuator rod to move the waste gate shaft but applied 8psi to the actuator with no movement. I beleive I can hear the compressed air escaping like the diaphragm is leaking.

The other 600 I tried to move the rod by hand and air. Could get the mechanism to move at all. It appears the wastegate shadt is frozen. Is there an easy way to free it up? I've put on blaster on it hoping that will loosen it up.

Do you have a schematic of the turbo which show how the wastegate is configured within the turbo?
Schematic no, but I have a couple pictures of various swingvalves as examples on how the actuator works in the swingvalve. These are different style swingvalves but how the puck actuates is the same.
To try to free the stuck one, you would need to disconnect the actuator arm (e-clip) and try to grab lever (not pin) with channel locks or open end wrench and work it back and forth along with penetrating oil to free it up. Once loose it does have a fair amount of play in it. Designed that way to prevent it from seizing up from carbon and rust. Well that was the idea anyway (lol). It should very easily move and have zero drag on it.
Fortunately for you with a log manifold at least you can SEE the swingvalve. If you had a TII, you would have very little access to it. You might have better access to the swingvalve if you remove that heat shield held on with the three bolts and two clips on the intake manifold. Just advising you those three bolts are sometimes tough to get started back in the intake manifold. Cross threading those bolts happens frequently.
As far as the other actuator that is leaking, it needs to be replaced.
Hope this info helps.
Good luck,
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Last edited by 4 L-bodies; 08-15-2019 at 10:06 AM. Reason: typo
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