1987 GLHS#0896 Project log - Page 10 - Turbo Dodge Forums : Turbo Dodge Forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Dodge Daytona, Dodge SRT-4, Chrysler PT Cruiser, Omni and more!
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post #136 of 465 Old 05-16-2014, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

Quote:
Originally Posted by ILIKESHELBYS View Post
Lookin good Donnie....
One thing I have discovered when replacing/modifying the pump hanger is that the float level should be measured/recorded before the mods are done. So that when you have it back together you can then check to see if the float is at the exact same height upon completion. Had I done this the first time or two, I would have saved having to remove the pump a few times to make adjustments. BTW...if your float and wiper/coil setup is not in great shape, an 88 Omni TBI hanger that comes w/a cheap-o pump on it is a direct replacement.
Thanks for the pointers Steve. Next time I go to the U-Pull-It,
I intend to get every sender there; as well as every shifter.

I have the tank out of the car and the breather fitting removed from the top of the tank for sight.
And before I hang it back up under there
(BTW: I may be positioning the tank further back once I remove the spare tire tub),
I intend to set the float to specs that will most accurately portray the fuel level.
I can do this on the bench with my multi-meter.

GLHS#0896
Under Construction

View the project log----------->1987 GLHS#0896 Project log<----------View the project log
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post #137 of 465 Old 05-16-2014, 03:34 PM
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

Sounds like you'll be fine Donnie. I didn't have the luxury of having the tank on the bench at the time! You go dog!
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post #138 of 465 Old 06-05-2014, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

Early June SMEC work.

I modified the SMEC case to include 2 small cooling fans.
I understand there isn't really an over-heating issue with them,
but I figured this could only help.




I used JB-Weld(marine weld) for the weather resistant properties. Worked great.
When I cover the SMEC and harness build here, I'll include the case mod details as well.

I'm presently in mid-harness-build.
The wiring is somewhat difficult, but not as rough as one might think.
I'll surely post the details of the process once completed.
(And, most likely start a new thread covering the details as well)

On another note; I should be uncovering the car for the season soon.
I'll need to get under the hood to mock-up several things(ie: PDC, wiring etc.)
And also, I need to get into the interior to begin the mock-up of the interior(Dash, seats, ALKY kit, etc)

Should be receiving the Block in a week or so.
Already have the pistons(Forged Venolias).
And, rods will be Eagle H beams(SRT-4 rods, #CRS5945D3)
These rods will be "off" length-wise upon receipt for the 2.2,
but the machine shop will correct this.
The pin hole will require resizing for the larger pins.
So my machinist will bore the hole off center by the .0004"(yes, that's ten-thousandths) difference to correct, and meet spec.
Should be very interesting.

So, stay tuned. Some of the better steps are just ahead.

Hey mods, if there's any more TD.com stickers floating around,
I'd LOVE to get my hands on them.
(Everywhere I go, my car will be a SHELBY TurboDodge.com bilboard)

GLHS#0896
Under Construction

View the project log----------->1987 GLHS#0896 Project log<----------View the project log

Last edited by signsoflife22; 06-06-2014 at 10:07 PM.
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post #139 of 465 Old 06-05-2014, 10:24 PM
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

I see a lot of forethought going on, keep it up!
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post #140 of 465 Old 06-05-2014, 10:41 PM
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

"And, rods will be Eagle H beams(SRT-4 rods, #CRS5945D3)
These rods will be "off" length-wise upon receipt for the 2.2,
but the machine shop will correct this.
The pin hole will require re-sizing for the larger pins.
So my machinist will bore the hole off center by the .0004"(yes, that's ten-thousandths) difference to correct, and meet spec. "


Of course you are then going to have those rods balanced?

I was surprised how much difference there was in a 'matched set' of T2 rods. The factory weight differential per rod is not very good. Chris Chadwich of NHRA dragster fame told me that 440 Mopar engines are really bad and he didn't expect my matched set to be near as bad as it was....and unfortunately I can't remember how many grams off it was...but we are talking more than a gram here. He had them balanced down to 1/1000 of a gram and one of them took a lot of shaving, it was a LOT heavier than the other three.

The pics attached are of the rods in the GLHS that I just sold being balanced. You can see the current weight more clearly displayed in the second picture.
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post #141 of 465 Old 06-06-2014, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

Quote:
Originally Posted by RGL10 View Post
I see a lot of forethought going on, keep it up!
Well, if there's ONE good thing about being an all too commonly broke TDer,
it's that we have the extra time to think things through properly.
Thanks Randy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ILIKESHELBYS View Post
"And, rods will be Eagle H beams(SRT-4 rods, #CRS5945D3)
These rods will be "off" length-wise upon receipt for the 2.2,
but the machine shop will correct this.
The pin hole will require re-sizing for the larger pins.
So my machinist will bore the hole off center by the .0004"(yes, that's ten-thousandths) difference to correct, and meet spec. "


Of course you are then going to have those rods balanced?

I was surprised how much difference there was in a 'matched set' of T2 rods. The factory weight differential per rod is not very good. Chris Chadwich of NHRA dragster fame told me that 440 Mopar engines are really bad and he didn't expect my matched set to be near as bad as it was....and unfortunately I can't remember how many grams off it was...but we are talking more than a gram here. He had them balanced down to 1/1000 of a gram and one of them took a lot of shaving, it was a LOT heavier than the other three.

The pics attached are of the rods in the GLHS that I just sold being balanced. You can see the current weight more clearly displayed in the second picture.
Ab-SOL-utely having them balanced.
I figure it this way; The engine I'm building was pushed close to its limits in the 1980s at 175HP!!!
If I'm going up to(and beyond) 3 times that, ALL PRECAUTIONS POSSIBLE are mandatory.

Good times Steve; Good times.
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post #142 of 465 Old 06-06-2014, 09:48 PM
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

I would say the fans in the ECU are a good idea..better than nothing.

Chrysler put large heat sinks on what I am guessing are the injector transistors and that sort of design is not done carelessly. Even though I've been running with no airflow through the ECU for years I wouldnt be surprised if that has caused intermittent issues or other oddities..

It would be interesting to measure the heat sink temperature on a hot day in an hour of stop and go traffic.

BTW whats this header you mentioned in the other thread???
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post #143 of 465 Old 06-06-2014, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

Quote:
Originally Posted by acannell View Post
I would say the fans in the ECU are a good idea..better than nothing.

Chrysler put large heat sinks on what I am guessing are the injector transistors and that sort of design is not done carelessly. Even though I've been running with no airflow through the ECU for years I wouldnt be surprised if that has caused intermittent issues or other oddities..

It would be interesting to measure the heat sink temperature on a hot day in an hour of stop and go traffic.
I read somewhere that someone long ago had an issue where their SMEC basically melted down.
(Maybe there was an engine bay fire; lol)
Needless to say, it sparked enough concern in me to add a bit of air flow.
And at less than 500 mA draw, it won't be noticed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acannell View Post
BTW whats this header you mentioned in the other thread???
Ok, you dragged it out of me...
Here's the header I bought from onerippinturbo2(an excellent guy, BTW)



Now, with the HE351CW, there will be some slight flange mods necessary.
There's a thread around here someplace I thought I subscribed to,
but I can find it.
So, I marked the flange for the T3 mod.
BUT; I would really like to wait until I have the Custom Tubular Intake Manifold before I mock things up.

Here's my markings:


There's a bunch of steps I've taken but have yet to document here.
Trying a bit to keep some of this log in relative order.lol

GLHS#0896
Under Construction

View the project log----------->1987 GLHS#0896 Project log<----------View the project log
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post #144 of 465 Old 06-06-2014, 10:11 PM
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

Quote:
Originally Posted by signsoflife22 View Post
I read somewhere that someone long ago had an issue where their SMEC basically melted down.
(Maybe there was an engine bay fire; lol)
Needless to say, it sparked enough concern in me to add a bit of air flow.
And at less than 500 mA draw, it won't be noticed.


Ok, you dragged it out of me...
Here's the header I bought from onerippinturbo2(an excellent guy, BTW)



Now, with the HE351CW, there will be some slight flange mods necessary.
There's a thread around here someplace I thought I subscribed to,
but I can find it.
So, I marked the flange for the T3 mod.
BUT; I would really like to wait until I have the Custom Tubular Intake Manifold before I mock things up.

Here's my markings:


There's a bunch of steps I've taken but have yet to document here.
Trying a bit to keep some of this log in relative order.lol
wow this is going to be one heck of an engine
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post #145 of 465 Old 06-06-2014, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

Quote:
Originally Posted by acannell View Post
wow this is going to be one heck of an engine
Thanks Asa,
I sure hope so.
The "goals" are 400FWHP and 11sec 1/4mi times,
but I set goals that would be met quite easily.
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post #146 of 465 Old 06-14-2014, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

As I read a few pages here and there in this log,
I see myself saying over and over,
"There's other stuff that I'll document later".....
Well, I haven't been keeping up here as well as I'd like, sorry.
Here's a few pics to kind of "hint" about some of the yet to be included steps I've taken:





















Somewhat minor steps remain for the turbo.
The most difficult step will be polishing the compressor housing.

I painted the Turbine housing and the CHRA using 2000 spray paint.
I wasn't a fan until I saw a YouTube video where a guy held a torch to this paint after drying,
and it held up perfectly.


I'm sure I'll get around to clearing up the questions of the processes in the pics soon.
Thanks for checking out the log.

Lastly, here's a pic that's a hint to where I'll be heading soon:




GLHS#0896
Under Construction

View the project log----------->1987 GLHS#0896 Project log<----------View the project log
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post #147 of 465 Old 06-14-2014, 10:16 AM
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

Nice!!!!!!! keep them coming.
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post #148 of 465 Old 06-14-2014, 10:54 AM
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

Looks great!!#
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post #149 of 465 Old 06-14-2014, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

Quote:
Originally Posted by onerippinturbo2 View Post
Nice!!!!!!! keep them coming.
I surely will, and as usual, it'll be all over the place.
It's impossible for me to keep things in a particular order with this log.
Things just happen too fast, I guess.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acannell View Post
Looks great!!#
Thanks Asa.
I just hope my header works with the intake.
I'd hate to have to modify them both to get them in,
but sometimes there's a price to be paid...lol

I'm sure everything will work out just as it should.
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post #150 of 465 Old 06-16-2014, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

As many already know, I'm going to use the SMEC electronics for controls in the GLHS.
This required modifying a 1989 "G"(Daytona) engine bay wiring harness,
and adapting it to the 40-pin GLHS Bulkhead connector.

Here's how I set-up the pin-out:
87 2.2 T2 LM/PM 40pin Bulkhead to 89 2.2 T2 50pin SMEC harness
Notes: (*) = wire not in 50-pin connector
______(X2) = two wires in same pin
______Note: pin #32 in 40-pin connector; Simply delete one of the 2 DG/BK wires.

1987 40-pin connector_________________________________________ ______1989 50-pin connector
(engine compartment side of connector)________________________________________ ______(pin# reference for which wire in harness)
Pin #-Circuit-Color --- Description--------------------------- Connect to ------------ Pin# --- Circuit ------------------ Description-----------------
#1 - Not Used
#2 - Not Used
#3 - Not Used
#4 - J10-12PK---Ignition Switch ---------------------------------------- To ----------------------- (*) -12PK/BK--------------In Starter Harness Plug
#5 - L3-16RD(X2)-Left High Beam ------------------------------------- To -----------------------#6 - L3-14RD/OR(X2)-----Headlamp High Beam
______________________Right High Beam
#6 - L1-12BK---Splice Charging Circuit Alternator ------------------ To ------------------------#1 - L1-12RD-------------Battery Feed
#7 - B1 - 12WT---Back Up Lamp Switch -------------------------------To -----------------------#27 - B1 -18WT----------Back Up Lamp Switch
#8 - B2 - 18VT/BK---Back Up Lamp Switch-----------------------------To-----------------------#28 - B2- 18VT/BK------ Back Up Lamp Switch
__________________Neutral Start and Back Up lamp Switch
#9 - U3 - 20OR/LG---Fuel Pacer Lamp-----------------------------------To--------------- None: Delete wire from 40-pin
#10 - K3 - 20BK/OR---Power Loss Light Ground-----------------------To ----------------------#38 - K3 - 20BK/PK------ Check Engine Lamp

#11 - D4 - WT/TN---Brake Switch Signal----------To---------6-pin harness 18WT/PK(Remove wire from 6=pin, and solder to WT/TN wire; rest of 6-pin connector is deleted)

#12 - C2 - 16DB/YL---A/C Low Pressure Switch----------------------To-----------------------#37 - C20-18DB/OR--A/C Damped pressure Switch
#13 - D6 - 18LG---Left turn Signal--------------------------------------To-----------------------#21 - D6-18LG-------------Left Turn Signal Lamp
#14 - S2 - 18YL---Starter Relay-Ignition-------------------------------To-----------------------(*)- S2-14YL/BK---------In Starter Harness Plug
#15 - V3 - 18BR---Winshield Wiper Motor-----------------------------To-------------------------#45 - V3-18BR------------Windshield Wiper Motor
#16 - V4 - 18RD---Windshield Wiper Motor----------------------------To------------------------#46 - V4-18RD-------------Windshield Wiper Motor
#17 - G2 - 20VT--Water temperature Gauge or Lamp---------------To------------------------#17 - G20-VT/YL-Water temperature Sending Unit
#18 - G6 - 20GY---Oil Pressure Switch---------------------------------To-----------------------#18 - G6-20GY-------------Oil pressure Switch
#19 - V5 - 18DG---Windshield Wiper Motor-----------------------------To----------------------#35 - V5-18DG-----------Windshield Wiper Motor
#20 - V1 - 18DB----Windshield Wiper Motor----------------------------To----------------------#36 - V6-18DB------------Windshield Wiper Motor
#21 - H2 - 18DG/RD---Horn----------------------------------------------To----------------------#32 - H2-14DG/RD-------Horn
#22 - Not Used
#23 - Not Used
#24 - L7 - 18BK/YL(X2)-Right Park & Side marker Lamps---------To----------------------#26 - L7-18BK/YL(X2)---Splice Side Marker and Park and
___________________Left Park and Side Marker Lamps_________________________________________Turn Signal lamps
#25 - A3 - 14PK-----Battery-Hazard Flasher---------------------------To--------------------#23 - A3-16PK/WT---Battery-Hazard Flasher
#26 - Not Used
#27 - G60 - 20GY/YL---Oil Pressure Sending Unit----------------------To--------------------#19 - G60-20GY/YL---Oil Pressure Sending Unit
#28 - Not Used
#29 - P5 - 20BK---Brake Warning lamp Switch-------------------------To--------------------#34 - P5-20GY/BK--Brake Warning Lamp Switch
#30 - Not Used
#31 - T21 - 20GY/LB-----Tachometer------------------------------------To---------------------#33 - T21-20GY/LB--------Tachometer
#32(See notes) - Z1 - 14DG/BK(X2)--Fuel pump Feed-------------To--------------------#24 - Z1-16DG/BK----------Fuel Pump Feed
#33 - V10 - 20BR---Windshield Washer Motor--------------------------To-------------------#29 - V10-18BR----Windshield Washer Motor
#34 - D5 - 18TN-----Right Turn Signal----------------------------------To----------------------#22 - D5-18TN-------Right Turn Signal Lamp
#35 - C13 - 12BK/RD--Electrically Heated rear Window--------------To----------------------#48 - C13-12BK/RD-Electrically Heated Rear Window
#36 - Not Used
#37 - Not Used
#38 - J2 - 14DB(X2)----Splice Ignition Run Circuit----------------------To-------------------#47 - J2-14DB(X2)------Splice Ignition Run Circuit
_____________________Splice ignition Run Circuit___________________________________________ ________Ignition Switch
#39 - L4 - 16VT(X2)----Right Headlamp Low Beam---------------------To-------------------#35 - L4-14VT(X2)------Headlamp - Low Beam
_____________________Left Headlamp Low Beam
#40 - J1 - 12RD----Ignition Switch---------------------------------------To-------------------(*) - J1-12RD------------In Starter Harness Plug

Many wires in the "G" engine(SMEC) harness are not used(ie: cruise circuit, Ambient temp sensors, etc)

Here's some pics of the procedure:
After tracing the additional 6-pin harness in the bulkhead grommet, I found it's only installed on cars with cruise.
Every wire in the 6-pin harness(save for the WT/PK) goes to the cruise module.
In the '89 FSM, it shows 2 different brake switches(cruise and no-cruise), and I have no cruise.
Traced every wire through the 60-pin harness,
and I was able to delete the un-necessary ones(Pretty much all of them).
The WT/PK(circuit D40) wire is the wire that goes directly to the WT/TN(circuit D4) wire in the '87 "L" body 40-pin bulkhead(pin #11).

Deleted pins 7, 8, 9, and 60 along with the wires from the 60-pin SMEC connector.




Found the cruise control plug, and deleted it along with its wiring




A while back, when I decided to go SMEC, another member had told me,
"There's going to be a lot of wires not used, so be prepared"...lol
Didn't think it would be this many.

(That little box is 3 inches deep, and filled to the top ^)

So, I guess we'll see when I eventually attempt to start the car.

This sheet should be printable for anyone building a SMEC Harness for their pre-1988 "L" body.
Best wishes with it.

GLHS#0896
Under Construction

View the project log----------->1987 GLHS#0896 Project log<----------View the project log
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