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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey i just picked up a vortech rising rate regulator and was wondering if it would be any good on a stock setup, or what do I need to do to get it to work Drew
 

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You can get it to work but why do you need so much fuel for a stock set up?
Definitely going to need a valve on the signal line to adjust the gain down low enought to make the FMU usable.
 

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why would you need 100 psi of fuel pressure at 10 psi of boost is beyond me. Definately add a restrictor to the boost/vacuum signal line to the unit. Plus add a needle valve so you can regulate the bleed-off and reduce the rate of gain (peak fuel pressure at max boost). And a check valve to prevent intake of air through the bleed during non-boost operations.

Wink
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well was just reading donovans site and he was using one, and well your right I dont really need one but I had a part to return and and he would only give me a credit the first thing I saw was the Vortech RRR
 

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They are adjustable, but you'll have to buy the "recalibration disc" for the ramp up you want. They are sold separately. 4:1, 6:1, 8:1, 10:1 etc...
 

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with the lousy flow of the 8v heads, the only way to make huge power is with huge boost(20+psi) even after you port, cam and fab everything. that said, running huge boost with rising rate regulators is bad news. what do you have and what do you want out of it? even a 7psi efi motor would be pushing 120psi with that 10:1. just bad for the fuel system. i dont' even know why vortech makes them in 10:1. 4:1 is the most you really want to use, 2:1 would be better for mild setups. you can bleed the 4:1down to 2:1.

and just FYI: bleeds and dead-heading pumps, locked wastegates and all the stuff that Gus made great and legendary, need serious hours of fiddling and a stable atmospheric environment to repeatedly produce results. so when temp, baro or humidity changes, tuning changes. that makes your ride as fickle as the wind. when you have only junkyard parts invested, that's fine. the cheaper the better! if you actually spent real money on the stuff that's potentially gonna blow, then real tuning is cheaper than replacing them.

however i don't believe in the mail order calibration business either. it'll get you close, but there's still about 10-15% left. a piggyback will work (SMT6 or even an SAFC) or standalone for the best results. doing it right always costs more. good luck though! what did you return to who?
-jason
 

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/\/\/\ I'm with you... 10:1 & I've even seen a few on ebay at 12:1!

Who needs that kind of psi? Most fuel systems couldn't even create that kind of pressure if they had to! lol ???????????
 

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Lots of ghetto honda turbvo kits come with the 12:1's.

I am also not a fan of mail order calibrations. Simply due to the tolerances inbetween engines, there is no way to have a perfect calibration, forget having different turbo's, heads......It might be possible to guess what modifications will do, but to make a calibration based on a list of parts, could never be very close. Changing the parts from stock would change tolerances a LOT and make the guesswork that much less accurate.

Of course there doesnt seem to be much of a choice unless you have the ability to adjust the calibration on your own to get things spot on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am running a 87 2.2 T1 converted to T2 with a glhs stage two computer from Mopar and a stock injectors R/T fuel regulator (about 6psi high) minor port work on intake and head. I just put it together havnt got an intercooler yet, but I have been trying to tune, and the problem Im having is, the car pulls hard till about 10 psi and any more than that it just stumbles, I was thinking it might be to much gas, or not having an intercooler, posible but not likely but a TBI cam I might have screw up and put the wrong cam in it (doubtfull) but Ive done some stupid things. any sugestions, cause its the best Ive had it running. Drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
And over boost should be like 18 I would really like to run like 17ish, Can i do that without an intercooler, I dont really care about this engine Im having a new one done. All for experimental and fun.
 

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blowing up your engine, often takes other parts with it. it's one of those thigns you want to avoid. the cheapest tuning device you can get for one of these cars is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. and that rising rate lump doesn't count. you're so close to stock that you should get an intercooler, and make sure you have 32 lb/hr injectors(or fake it with correspondingly higher base pressure) which IIRC are stock on the GLHS whose computer you're running. basically you're going to want to mod your setup to whatever the computer is programmed for. mechanical changes are easier than reprogramming your computer, unless you do that. if you want to know more, there's some good discussion in the electronics part of this forum. goood luck.
-jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am using the MP Glhs stage two computer, I'm not planing on using the rising rate at this piont, whatever the problem I am having is has been around for some time its done the same thing through several computers, fuel set ups and engine set ups T1-T2 so I don't really know
 
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