Umm, resize this, jesus christ.
14psi pull on a 2.5 s60
Last run was at 12tdc timing, 14psi. FWD stg 3bar cal running on a 2bar sensor
Stock 2.5 bottom re-ringed to repair prior booboo.:bash: removed the balance shafts while in there.:thumb:
Mods are cam timing advanced 4degrees, super 60 turbo, +40s, tu 3in sv, 3in downpipe, self ported swirl head with +1mm ex valves, self ported exhaust manifold, fmic, 3inch charge pipes, untouched 2piece intake and stock throttle body. 91octane pump.
Numbers seem pretty good to me considering the lowish boost and it was through a 3inch exhaust pipe 3in catco and a 3inch dynomax straight through, sucking through a 8inch long K&N cone filter on a 3inch intake pipe. Once I get the fwd cal to read the 3bar map we will see what it can do at 25psi. :thumb:
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Umm, resize this, jesus christ.
my browser auto resizes- guess others don't so I will.
higher hp than I made at 12psi but I made 280ft-lbs.
yeah, but I don't have that fancy top piece. Your setup is pretty close otherwise no?higher hp than I made at 12psi but I made 280ft-lbs.
those #'s were way before where I'm at now. They were a stock 2.5 with a 2 piece, ported exhaust manny, .63 housing, 2.5" SV, 3" straight pipe/side exit and cummins i/c.
Don't seem bad considering the map problem, Whats the fuel pressure at ? do you have a scanner to read the map voltage ? ive just got an old moniter 2000 with a pathfinder cartridge and it reads 13 inches of vac and 1.48 volts at idle, I believe it is scaled to read a 2bar so hence the low vac reading( I have a 3 bar and my vac is around 20" on the gauge
You consider putting the cam timing back to stock?
What I did was run a compression test and messed with the cam timing and left it where it read the highest psi. I will mess some more with the cam timing the next time I dyno it.You consider putting the cam timing back to stock?
I have tried 3 different chips and 3 different 3bar maps including one from fwd and they all make the car run like crap with a 3bar-they all put outDon't seem bad considering the map problem, Whats the fuel pressure at ? do you have a scanner to read the map voltage ? ive just got an old moniter 2000 with a pathfinder cartridge and it reads 13 inches of vac and 1.48 volts at idle, I believe it is scaled to read a 2bar so hence the low vac reading( I have a 3 bar and my vac is around 20" on the gauge
1.60-ish volts with the engine off. I have to do more diagnostics- I have an otc 4000 to check things out, just need more time to mess with it.
Great numbers man. I have a 2.5 S60 kit with some mods i'm installing now, I am hoping to get those numbers too.
Matt
PS, I am wondering which you did, and which is better? To use the MP fuel pump as an in tank pump replacement or if its better to use it in conjunction with the stocker?
Matt
PS, I am wondering which you did, and which is better? To use the MP fuel pump as an in tank pump replacement or if its better to use it in conjunction with the stocker?
is that on the turbo you got from me
no that is the one I had installed last year- brand new, yours is going on a friend's car- when he reimburses me.is that on the turbo you got from me
Seems like the 4* cam ADV is hurting you a little bit. Do you know what cam you're running?
As far as I know, it is whatever is stock for a 92 roller.Seems like the 4* cam ADV is hurting you a little bit. Do you know what cam you're running?
turbo cam would me my guess.
Try it straight up like Ondonti wrote.
If it was a TBI cam I'd try it a few * RET.
If it was a TBI cam I'd try it a few * RET.
Having trouble with that 3 bar cal? I just do not hear good things about FWD's calibrations and I hear this from reliable sources--people who actually know what they are doing. It is the only thing keeping me from buying one.
Higher pressure at 300 rpms doesnt really help power where you need it, unless you race at idle.What I did was run a compression test and messed with the cam timing and left it where it read the highest psi. I will mess some more with the cam timing the next time I dyno it.
You set cams on the dyno, not the compression tester. I would say you lost a lot of top end from that timing change.
The numbers seem a little low especially knowing that it was done on a dynojet dyno.
Next time you dyno, take a long a scan tool like a modis, otc 4000 etc... becuase you need more info/data. With your set-up, you would really benefit from a better cam. The stock is OK, and if you do continue to use it, try running it staright up. Normally if you run a late cam on a early sprocket (centerline changes) and then running it +4 degrees make sense. But a late cam on a late sprocket should be run straight up. The fuel seems lean and it would be nice to see what timing is REALLY doing. I would like to see a correlation between actual map volts and actual timing advance. Plus is the ecu pulling back any timing because it is lean? is there any knock? The dyno graph would have been nice if it corresponded to boost and / or rpm too.
I know when we do custom tune a car on our dyno we take a lot of data, because just lookign at boost anf fuel doesn't tell the whole story. As far as the ecu goes, once we get suffuciant data, changes can be made. Too bad you aren't local, it would be nice to get it on our dyno.
later,
Cindy
PS for the naysayer about our cals: Our cals are excellent, and yea there will always be a few people that may not 100% satisified, but alot has to do with their set-up and tuning as much as the cal itself. Our cals are in the fastest t-3 (wallace 11.68 and 427whp), the fastest 8v in Canada (shadow 10.99 eta) and hundreds (and maybe thousands at this point) of other racers and daily drivers alike. We wouldn't still be in business if our cals were that bad.....If your friend actually owns one of our cals and is having issues, tell him to call me.
Next time you dyno, take a long a scan tool like a modis, otc 4000 etc... becuase you need more info/data. With your set-up, you would really benefit from a better cam. The stock is OK, and if you do continue to use it, try running it staright up. Normally if you run a late cam on a early sprocket (centerline changes) and then running it +4 degrees make sense. But a late cam on a late sprocket should be run straight up. The fuel seems lean and it would be nice to see what timing is REALLY doing. I would like to see a correlation between actual map volts and actual timing advance. Plus is the ecu pulling back any timing because it is lean? is there any knock? The dyno graph would have been nice if it corresponded to boost and / or rpm too.
I know when we do custom tune a car on our dyno we take a lot of data, because just lookign at boost anf fuel doesn't tell the whole story. As far as the ecu goes, once we get suffuciant data, changes can be made. Too bad you aren't local, it would be nice to get it on our dyno.
later,
Cindy
PS for the naysayer about our cals: Our cals are excellent, and yea there will always be a few people that may not 100% satisified, but alot has to do with their set-up and tuning as much as the cal itself. Our cals are in the fastest t-3 (wallace 11.68 and 427whp), the fastest 8v in Canada (shadow 10.99 eta) and hundreds (and maybe thousands at this point) of other racers and daily drivers alike. We wouldn't still be in business if our cals were that bad.....If your friend actually owns one of our cals and is having issues, tell him to call me.
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