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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Blasted and painted the cast control arms after removing the bushings.

Put new ball joints in.

Went to put the MEVOTECH bushings in and they were a no go. Way too small by 20- 50 thou.

Piss off.

Put a big order in with Johnny at PB. Hopefully I can catch him before he ships out and get a proper set of bushings.


Edit! Good thing Johnny didn't have .y order shipped out today like he was going to. Got the cast arm bushings added to my order.
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1992 dodge shadow es turbo
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Blasted and painted the cast control arms after removing the bushings.

Put new ball joints in.

Went to put the MEVOTECH bushings in and they were a no go. Way too small by 20- 50 thou.

Piss off.

Put a big order in with Johnny at PB. Hopefully I can catch him before he ships out and get a proper set of bushings.


Edit! Good thing Johnny didn't have .y order shipped out today like he was going to. Got the cast arm bushings added to my order.
View attachment 284206
I had the same issue with moog control arm bushingsMoog control arm bushing fitment
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Over the past couple days my kid helped rebuild the front struts. I cheaped out and went with the FCA brand via China.

We cut one bottom coil out of the spring.

Not sure how it will work but the springs are cheap enough if I have to buy another set. (obviously doesn't seat as well as a stock spring, thought about using the torch at work to bend the bottom coil to match the perch)

Got the 92 k frame all welded up, added Johnny's bobble strut mount. Mounted the original

I'm pretty sure the guys that welded up these k frames at the factory were drunk, couldn't see, and had a kindergarten education.

We also put Johnny's poly bushings in the control arms but 1 of the large set just doesn't work, I assume the control arm was just too rusted out in the bushing hole. So as a stop gap I'm just going to get some shim material from work whether brass or stainless and put that inside the hole then hammer the bushings in.

Had to grind down the sway bar bushings that Johnny sent to match the bottom straps. He didn't have any to run the 1.250 bar in the later k frame. I just used the bench grinder to make them fit the straps. Should work great.

Painted the new 11" calipers red.

Next is to pull the engine, pull the rear brakes (have rebuild boots for the original 87 rear discs as I can't find the larger drum in hat brakes around me)

Contemplating whether we need to jump up to the 1" master or stay with the 7/8" for the front size.

Also have to replace all the brake lines to the front for sure. I think the rear was already replaced with a Nicopp line. The fuel lines near the filter are questionable then to the tank all the rubber needs to be replaced.

I'm also getting ready to build a full 8 pt roll cage for my Scout II so progress might halt on the Tona til it gets warmer.
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Got some work done today, pulled the rear panhard bar and bracket, welded a gusset on the bottom of the bracket to stiffen it.

Also went and bought a 1/8 x 1" x 48" piece of flat bar to box the panhard, tacked it up and its insane how stiff it is with only tack welds. Johnny's bushings will go in.

Got the reat brakes pulled. The calipers are decent reman units the parking brakes do work. Will be taking them to work to sand blast them. We have new dust seals for them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Well after that last spam on this thread. Kinda crazy that people are still scamming on old boards lol.


The kid and myself got some work done today. She wire wheeled the rear springs then cut the bottom coil off. We cleaned up the bump stops painted them and the springs. Put in the new polybushings.com spring seats. Got the panhard bar fixed up, welded in a flat 1/8 x 1" piece on the bottom. New poly bushings. (not needed the 37 year old originals still looked absolutely mint).

Put in the new rear shocks. (cheapie FCA China ones) but better then the 37 old OEM's.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Tread

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tool Rim Gas


Next up is to.drop the tank down a bit, replace all the rubber lines and the filler neck rubber as it's cracked. All new rubber for the rear lines is coming.

Then need to sort what fuel/ brake lines need to be replaced. The rear hard lines look good but the fronts both left and right are dead and need to be changed out.
 
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