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Old School Hot Rodder
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read through the various parts of this and have most of what I need assembled. I have run into a major snag, I have the Venolia pistons, the 1989 2.5L common block, a PT Cruiser 2.4L turbo head from a 2005 model an extra set of 2.5L turbo rods, PN 4323958 with the floating wrist pin bushings.

My problem is the wrist pin to rod fit. Wrist pins are 0.927" OD, rod bushing is 0.914" ID which matches up to the 0.9009" specified OD for the stock wrist pin.

Is there a set of thin wall bushings for the rods? If I ream/hone these to fit I am pretty sure I will be through the bronze and into the steel backing.
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you go look under project logs, I believe my original build of T2K-CAR is documented there.
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Far easier to drop the whole 2.4 motor in than to try and adapt the head to our block. But good luck.
Not that easy in a K27 as it works way better with an automatic than a 5 speed. FYI, the body reinforcement on the K27 runs well above where the K car manual transmission shifter attaches.

The 2.4L auto is a 41TE so needs a trans computer or a complete NGC system.
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I could if I could find one for a 2.0/2.4L. (a) I have a 2.2L T2 in the car currently (b) I have a partially disassembled 1989 2.5L common block. The head has a rusted exhaust stud that broke with maybe 1/4" exposed so it isn't coming out (c) I had what I was sold as an SRT4 head and exhaust with integral turbo and a Cirrus intake. It came with a set of ARP studs, cam sprockets etc that I was planning on using. It turns out it is a 2001 Stratus or similar NA head that has been severely molested in an attempt to use it on a 2.2L short block. (d) I already have a modified A604 (31TH) for the 2.2/2.5L block (e) mounts into the K body for a 2.4L pretty well have to be fabricated as I will not use solid mounts on a car that can be taken on long road trips.

I neglected to mention that I do not have a 2.4L short block so would need to buy one.
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a couple of questions, first, I saw on here I think, information on using a cylinder head mounted distributor. Sticking it on the end of the intake cam would be great as it would get it away from under the intake manifold. I can't find anything on it (where is the search function?).

Second, I think I have arrived at a viable solution for the oil drain issues on these, here is a picture looking up at the bottom, rear of the 2.4L head on the 2.5L block (ignore the obvious leak evidence, that will be fixed), you can see the 3 center rear oil drains are at the back of the block.
Automotive tire Rim Gas Automotive wheel system Composite material

I surmised that if I can clean up that area (having a Bridgeport would be fantastic!) I can secure a piece of square steel tube to the block using some small bolts and high temperature/strength epoxy after capping the ends and adding a drain from it. Once it is mounted, use a suitable drill to open the top where the 3 existing drain holes are. Doing it this way will (hopefully) eliminate the need for the hose nest for drains. I plan on using one of the existing front side oil drains as a place for my PCV valve to draw from which should help oil return under normal driving. I have a plan for oil supply using as much of the 2.5L oil passages as possible to come up the left front bolt hole and extending the original cross passage to that hole with it enlarged to match the existing left rear hole. The idea is to try and avoid a cluster of external lines (leak sources) so in the event of needing to remove the head it can be done reasonably easily.

The final item is the timing belt, the normal 2.4L belt has a head mounted idler that increases the wrap on the intake side and the water pump. Since the 2.5L water pump is driven by the alternator belt, that isn't an issue, what is an issue is where the belt will sit without that routing.
Motor vehicle Engineering Gas Machine Auto part

Using a late Ford Ranger 2.3/2.5L belt will allow the belt to be pulled back then run to the intermediate shaft sprocket, and yes, the right motor mount will need to be modified to allow the belt to pass through behind it. The other issue is spacing away from the block and heads. I need to find (if there is one) a round tooth crank sprocket with the teeth going all the way out like my present square tooth one on my 1988 T2 engine.
 
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Old School Hot Rodder
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1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I sent him a message regarding the distributor mods and he responded fairly quickly with detailed instructions. I like his plug wire modification also and will probably do that so I can use right angle distributor ends. Now I am just trying to figure out the belt setup. The actual 2.4L DOHC belt is plenty long, and if I order it as a kit comes with idler and tensioner. Problem is, belt is 28mm wide vs 24/25 for the 2.2/2.5L engines. The crank sprocket on the 2.2/2.5L only has partial "teeth", they do not go full width of the sprocket.
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have the ARP studs, they came with the original head.
 

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Old School Hot Rodder
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1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It is a Gates number and so far I am not finding a lot of information on Gates timing belts, still looking.
 
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