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Discussion Starter #1
I have been reading alot about using a 180 deg thermo. Can someone tell me where I can find one or give me a part number (Even Better). My local parts stores only have the 195 and are no help trying to find a cooler one. :mad:

Also what is the reason for the bleed hole that gets drilled in it?

This is for my 87 CSX.

Thanks a bunch!
 

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i got my 180* from pep boys but im not sure whats around you,but the bleed hole is there to have less of a shock on the engine and block when it opens up completely
 

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Also allows trapped air to escape, making "burping" the motor a lot easier, eliminates overheating.

I used a Stant thermostat I got from the local parts jobber.
 

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or go to an advance auto, the computer will list several different temps for the car....of course, we are supposed to sell the customer a stock replacement, but just tell them whatfore....remember, the customer is always right....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Continuing Thermostat Question

Ok, I got the 180, but my parts man says that the lower temp thermostat will confuse the puter and could affect the timing control. Basically, the computer would try to get the engine up to the desired temp by adjusting the engine timing. Is this correct?

FYI: I have found that I have a stage II calibration I believe (14 PSI ?) Will this affect the engine temp?

As a refresher, I run nice and cool around town and below 55 on the freeway. Over 55 though the temp creeps up and up.
 

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CSX-550 said:
Ok, I got the 180, but my parts man says that the lower temp thermostat will confuse the puter and could affect the timing control. Basically, the computer would try to get the engine up to the desired temp by adjusting the engine timing. Is this correct?

FYI: I have found that I have a stage II calibration I believe (14 PSI ?) Will this affect the engine temp?

As a refresher, I run nice and cool around town and below 55 on the freeway. Over 55 though the temp creeps up and up.

Scuse me one sec, :withstupi :spam2: :rofl2:

Thats the funniest thing I have ever heard.

Going down 15 deg won't do much, it will however run cooler and be more detonation resistant, make more power. The computer does not change timing to make it run hotter. Now if you go too cold, you will effect the car, it will never hit closed loop which means it will run rich, this will wash the rings down and cause massive wear. Running a 180 is a ok, its the perfect compromise, :cool:
 

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simons da man :thumb:
 

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I bet your problem is a partically block radiator. I had the same problem.

From thedodgegarage.com

"2) Installing a modified 180 degree thermostat will make you power AND promote longer headgasket life!

The 180F thermostat alone is good for 1-2 tenths in the quarter mile but the real trick is a 1/16 hole drilled in the top of the thermostat. It prevents or lessens the "thermal shock" the engine sees when the thermostat opens for the first time and "shocks" the head and block with ice cold coolant from the radiator. 1/16 is about the perfect size, 1/8 is to large and causes the engine to run cooler then 180 degrees believe it or not. Now some of you may think that "Wow 180 is good 160 MUST be better!", this isn't so- as a matter of fact rings like to be HOT and cylinder heads like to be COOL. The best temps for rings is 180F+ with temperatures below that radically increasing ring wear. All the newest engines use reverse flow cooling where the head/s are cooled first and then the coolant runs down the bores, exactly opposite of what happens to our 2.2 engines. All the newest engines also come with 2 stage thermostats to lessen thermal shock and the imports have been using "jiggle pin" thermostats for years which pretty much does the same thing as our modified unit above does..."
 

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Discussion Starter #12
turbovanman said:
Scuse me one sec, :withstupi :spam2: :rofl2:

Thats the funniest thing I have ever heard.

Going down 15 deg won't do much, it will however run cooler and be more detonation resistant, make more power. The computer does not change timing to make it run hotter. Now if you go too cold, you will effect the car, it will never hit closed loop which means it will run rich, this will wash the rings down and cause massive wear. Running a 180 is a ok, its the perfect compromise, :cool:
LMAO! That's what I thought! You wouldn't believe this NAPA guy. He did everything possible to sell me the HOT theromstat. I finally just told him this was for a project and he sold it to me. Tried his best to make me feel inferior though.

Thanks for the answer. I can count on you for accuracy and a good laugh! :D
 

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180 degree thermostat, part umber 31078. if its a caquest, its a CTH manufacturer code.

I work there, so I figured i'de pull the numbers for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ixixAndrewxixi said:
180 degree thermostat, part umber 31078. if its a caquest, its a CTH manufacturer code.

I work there, so I figured i'de pull the numbers for ya.

:thumb: Thanks! I'll put that in my book.
 

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That's pretty funny! I was told the EXACT same thing just yesterday by an O'reillys parts counter guy. I was going to just say "yeah, ok whatever", lemme just get the 180 but somehow I fell for it and got the 195. I've been using 180 thermostats for a while now and have gone through a few trying to figure out why my temps fluctuate so much in addition to buying new coolant temp sensor for the computer and sender for gauge, flushing coolant, even swapping in another gauge cluster. Sometimes the gauge will go up on the highway and other odd (to me anyway) stuff. I'm thinking from what I've read above this may actually be normal. I thought maybe this guy actually knew something (most of those guys are CLUELESS) and I bought the higher degree 'stat. I think I've learned my lesson. Never trust that the counter guy knows what he's talking about!
 

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WestonM22CSX said:
That's pretty funny! I was told the EXACT same thing just yesterday by an O'reillys parts counter guy. I was going to just say "yeah, ok whatever", lemme just get the 180 but somehow I fell for it and got the 195. I've been using 180 thermostats for a while now and have gone through a few trying to figure out why my temps fluctuate so much in addition to buying new coolant temp sensor for the computer and sender for gauge, flushing coolant, even swapping in another gauge cluster. Sometimes the gauge will go up on the highway and other odd (to me anyway) stuff. I'm thinking from what I've read above this may actually be normal. I thought maybe this guy actually knew something (most of those guys are CLUELESS) and I bought the higher degree 'stat. I think I've learned my lesson. Never trust that the counter guy knows what he's talking about!
If your temps flucutate, back flush your heater core. When they plug up on our cars, they wreak havoc on the flow!
My van had that issue, back flushed, problem solved. Also had this happen on many customer cars that have the heater flow coolant 24/7 vs some that have a shut off valve design.
 

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And you guys are drilling holes in new thermostats?? I have two new ones, and was contemplating installing one tomorrow...can one of you show me a drilled one, as in WHERE all this drilling is going on? After that, iits coat everything with blue gasket RTV and screw it all back together?? Let us know! [email protected]
 

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desertsnake, i used to have a page bookmarked with an pic of how to do it...for some reason it thinks on www.thedodgegarage.com, check it out. I will check my computer at work today to confirm, i have it bookmarked there.
-mark
 

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http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_tricks.html

Check the condition of your radiator. I recently had to replace two rads in my fleet, and on both cars - before the replacement temps were up and down the scale, after the replacement they stay generally firmly pegged at 1/3 on the gauge after warming to operating temperatures (both have stock 195F stats). If your rad has lost cooling fins (both of mine had, one actually had a hole and was leaking coolant) or the inside has become coated with scale it greatly reduces the heat exchange capability of the radiator.

Is there an anti-scale chemical additive for coolant systems? And are they worth a pinch of coon shit? (not so much to prevent forming, but a corrective one for problem situations)
 
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