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85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, multiple red 1991 Spirit R/T's, lots of bits and pieces
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Does it have a light under the hood? My 89 Shadow has one and I had to bend the mount bracket a little so it would not come on when the hood was closed. Does not explain instant drain. I would think that is a ground issue, but put a meter on the battery to make sure its dead or just a ground issue. Of course you can always take it to say Autozone and have the battery tested.
It does have a light under the hood, but the bulb is missing. I think the battery must have broken a terminal off. It's completely dead, no short and no voltage. I just can't imagine how it did it, just sitting perfectly still in the garage. There's a ghost somewhere.
 

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1987 GLHS 0564
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FWIW, my light soxket would drain even with no bulb in it. I think there is some sort of mercury switch telling it when the hood was open. My battery tender could never get it fully charged till I adjusted that light assembly even when bulb-less
 

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85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, multiple red 1991 Spirit R/T's, lots of bits and pieces
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
FWIW, my light soxket would drain even with no bulb in it. I think there is some sort of mercury switch telling it when the hood was open. My battery tender could never get it fully charged till I adjusted that light assembly even when bulb-less
I love having a light when I pop the hood, but I'm not a huge fan of having the bulb in the center of the hood. Wherever you put your head, you're making a shadow over the engine exactly where you need to look. On my Shadow (ironically), I replaced the single bulb with two LED dome light bulbs on the front corners with reflectors to light up the engine bay from both sides. I'm trying to preserve as much of the New Yorker as possible, but I have some ideas for how to convert the existing mercury switch without making any modifications.
 

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85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, multiple red 1991 Spirit R/T's, lots of bits and pieces
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
TRS-80 Log post: The insurance frustration is over. The next mechanical steps are to remove or relocate the boost gauge (and possibly buy a Stage 1 cal from FWD), possibly replace the cat, and remove and flush out the fuel injectors. I also just switched the stereo to a JVC. They don't cease to impress. The original speakers had an amazing audio quality and very even (and high) SPL. The rear 5x7 speakers have good response below 200Hz, but I have a high pass filter at 200Hz to allow all six speakers to perform throughout the volume range without distortion. I can't upgrade to 6x9's without cutting, which I won't do, and 5x7's by nature do not have a low Fs or high Xmax. I need a subwoofer.

This isn't totally straightforward. I don't want to take anything away from the car, and I don't want to make any permanent changes. The trunk is solid. So far this is the best plan I can think of. I'm going to take out the donut spare tire, which is attached to the back right seat:
Motor vehicle Car Automotive tire Vehicle Grey


They built this car with a well for a full-size spare, but instead it's just the pit where everything from the trunk falls in. That's why the donut is stuck where it's a little harder to reach. However, in day-to-day use, it would be much more convenient to have a wide and flat trunk than to have a large bowl in the middle. So, I'm going to relocate the donut to the spare well and cut a single piece of MDF or similar to either fit the entire trunk or just the spare well. The subwoofer will be installed in the MDF, just like I did with the Shadow. Fortunately, the previous owner already ran the heavy gauge 12v line from the battery, but I will still have to run some RCA cables and a remote wire. I'll have to get some fresh carpet for this project, too. The end result should be that the spare is still present, the trunk will have more usable depth area, and I'll have a sub.

One other thing I'm interested in adding is a remote keyless entry and remote start kit, but I haven't wired one up to one of these cars yet. I might be in for a major chore.
 

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85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, multiple red 1991 Spirit R/T's, lots of bits and pieces
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Of course, I skipped all the rest to go straight for the subwoofer install because....priorities!! A 40" x 40" sheet of wood fits really neatly and tightly between the wheel wells and between the back seats and the rear of the trunk. The previous owner installed a fresh 8ga (I think) primary to the trunk. I added a chassis ground, and I bought a cheap 25' RCA A/V cable to fish from the stereo to the trunk. (I cut the video cable to use for the amplifier remote wire.) I installed the Pioneer amp and Pyramid sub that was absurdly good in the Shadow into the spare tire well of the New Yorker. The New Yorker's spare well is MUCH BIGGER, so the speaker is very happy to reproduce low frequencies. Unfortunately, in this case the solid trunk worked very much against me. The seat backs and the rear deck have plenty of sound deadening material, so the sound from the sub to the cabin is significantly dampened. On the other side, the entirety of the trunk is uninsulated, so I am "that" asshole when I turn up the sound. Everyone else hears me play the Mortal Kombat soundtrack while I cruise through a residential area in my vintage banana colored car.

I have three possible solutions:
1) Install dynamat to the trunk area, so that I can turn up the sub more and not disturb everyone else so much
2) Remove the sub, replace the stock 5x7's with something long-throw with a high power rating and low Fs, and probably use a much smaller amplifier
3) Replace the rear 5x7's with something like 4x6's with cups, so that they can produce the midrange while the bass and midbass from the sub passes around them

A wide and FLAT trunk is much more useful than a trunk with a funny-shaped deep well that doesn't hold a spare tire. However, I think the best solution really is to find some low Fs, high excursion, high wattage 5x7's. This is not so easy, unfortunately. There's a whole world of 6x9's on the market, but the 5x7 size has been neglected. As it happens, I did find what looks like a pretty decent upgrade, and they're made by Infinity. Boy, wouldn't that be appropriate.
 

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Here's my setup, 2 6 1/2" skars on a 350w skar amp. Didnt get a finished pic, but you get the idea. Factory speakers replaced with infinity kappas and a pioneer headunit
Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Audio equipment Electronic instrument
 

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Thats where I got my infinitys from, they also have the wiring connectors to make it plug and play, no cutting factory speaker connectors off.
 

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85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, multiple red 1991 Spirit R/T's, lots of bits and pieces
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Regarding audio, I installed the Infinity REF-8632CFX 5"x7" speakers on the back deck, and I powered them from an Alpine amp that I think is rated at just 2x60w RMS. It's hard to tell that I don't have a subwoofer! Those are some incredible woofers. The separate amplifier was a must. No normal head unit will push enough for these guys.

Regarding the car, let me put it this way......what the f*#k?? It just started doing the weird thing that the LeBaron has been doing. It takes off fine, then at the next takeoff it's weaker, then it's weaker yet, and it eventually gets to where it won't even maintain highway speeds. However, just blipping the key to off and on so fast that the engine doesn't stop is enough to make it drive normally again. This is a problem nobody else seems to have heard of, and it's happening to two of my cars. The only code is 55...
 

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Convert to t2 status. Got my 87 from an old lady for 250 bucks. Drove it stock for 2 weeks to the head gasket started pee'ing water out the side under the cam gear one morning after getting to work. Drove it home, ripped the head off, threw on my 2 piece, ported exhaust manifold, covered the turbo over and threw in a a t2 logic module. Swapped the rad out for an intercooled setup and went. Just like the 87 Mexican k cars. Bone stock looking, and with the boost turned up to 14.5psi, the boost cut turned off in the calibration it ran 14.3's through the stock exhaust. Totally fun car. Had the auto load leveling and voice alert. I swapped in an 87/88 Shelbyz rear axle with the good bushings an 89/90 kmember and arms and an 89/90 11" 4 wheel disc setup. Like driving a high performance couch. Anyway, dinking around with the t2 stuff is going to drive you mad for such little performance. Just take the plunge, it can still look stock, just 87 or 88 stock instead of 85.
 

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85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, multiple red 1991 Spirit R/T's, lots of bits and pieces
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I'm nervous to do that for a couple reasons. One is that the drivetrain for '85 is fairly brittle, and I'm running the original A413. Also, I don't think I can find a T2 radiator or IC lines, at least for a reasonable price. I found a couple of T2 LM's on car-part.com for about $75 from California, which is surprisingly good. I could definitely go with the Honda Civic radiator, and I could make my own IC lines (or I could give up on the LeBaron and steal the line from there), but the car is mint, and I'm hoping to avoid cutting steel to make the radiator fit. Perhaps once I get my Spirit here and figure out what I'm doing with the LeBaron, I might go that route. It would certainly put a big grin on my face!
 

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I'm nervous to do that for a couple reasons. One is that the drivetrain for '85 is fairly brittle, and I'm running the original A413. Also, I don't think I can find a T2 radiator or IC lines, at least for a reasonable price. I found a couple of T2 LM's on car-part.com for about $75 from California, which is surprisingly good. I could definitely go with the Honda Civic radiator, and I could make my own IC lines (or I could give up on the LeBaron and steal the line from there), but the car is mint, and I'm hoping to avoid cutting steel to make the radiator fit. Perhaps once I get my Spirit here and figure out what I'm doing with the LeBaron, I might go that route. It would certainly put a big grin on my face!
85 has stronger rods G head and the trans isn't that bad. Civic rad fits easy...
 

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Like stated the 85 has been rods and even the lightweight rods are ok at 14psi.

If you wanted to keep the stock look I'd look for a Daytona rad/ic setup. If not then keep your stock radiator and there's enough room right inside the frame and bumper supports to enlarge 2 factory holes and run a 3" O.D. diameter pipe on each side to do a front mount. Done it on 5 cars now. I don't like cutting and hacking either and am an ocd nut when it comes to managing air flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I'm strongly considering it, at the very least just to get rid of the obscure 1985 electronics, haha! I'm still not able to set ignition timing properly. I've replaced the IAC and TPS with a known good set (twice), and there are no codes. Pulling the water temp sensor turns on the cooling fan, but it doesn't change idle speed. Attempting to HOLD the idle at 2k and set time there doesn't put the timing mark anywhere visible within the window. The best I can do is put it roughly where it is on another similar car. Anyone have an idea why the IAC's would not do anything but also wouldn't throw a code?
 

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I'm strongly considering it, at the very least just to get rid of the obscure 1985 electronics, haha! I'm still not able to set ignition timing properly. I've replaced the IAC and TPS with a known good set (twice), and there are no codes. Pulling the water temp sensor turns on the cooling fan, but it doesn't change idle speed. Attempting to HOLD the idle at 2k and set time there doesn't put the timing mark anywhere visible within the window. The best I can do is put it roughly where it is on another similar car. Anyone have an idea why the IAC's would not do anything but also wouldn't throw a code?
Timing belt could be off. Verify marks line up with timing mark at 0 in the window. Also if you turn the distributor far enough it should hit 12. Unless the intermediate shaft is way off...
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I did check the timing belt. Straight horizontal on the distributor keying, dead-center in the window on the timing cover. It runs pretty well, it just pings on certain occasions, and I've never been able to correctly set timing. If I pull the plug and let the idle stay at 700, I see the timing mark at 16 degrees. If I raise the idle to 2000 where it's supposed to be to set timing, I can turn the distributor left or right until the engine no longer runs, and the timing mark never shows. On a hunch, I set the 700 rpm timing to 12 degrees, and it cuts out the moment I give it any throttle.
 

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I did check the timing belt. Straight horizontal on the distributor keying, dead-center in the window on the timing cover. It runs pretty well, it just pings on certain occasions, and I've never been able to correctly set timing. If I pull the plug and let the idle stay at 700, I see the timing mark at 16 degrees. If I raise the idle to 2000 where it's supposed to be to set timing, I can turn the distributor left or right until the engine no longer runs, and the timing mark never shows. On a hunch, I set the 700 rpm timing to 12 degrees, and it cuts out the moment I give it any throttle.
Just checked the Chiltons book I found in the car and it doesn't say to pull the plug on pre 87 cars and use less timing...
Font Book Material property Paper Pattern

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
OMG, I never thought the 1985 would be different than the others. Well that does change things, but my IAC is still not doing anything (i.e., turning on the A/C has no effect), and I don't have a vacuum advance. 12 degrees BTDC basically doesn't work at all, at the base idle.

@GLHNSLHT2 the usual behavior I see is that I pull the coolant temp sensor after the car has fully warmed up, and the IAC bumps idle up to 2000 RPM and disables the timing advance. I guess I never realized it doesn't do that on 1985/1986.
 
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