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85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, multiple red 1991 Spirit R/T's, lots of bits and pieces
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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Thanks @DOC G IROC

So, here's the progress so far. We're basically done with the teardown. The easy stuff came off without protest, like the belts and accessories, the radiator, the air side, etc. I did not remove any head bolts or motor mounts. I was able to get the downpipe off, then unbolted the turbo and let it sit against the firewall, then unbolted the exhaust manifold (THAT WAS STUBBORN!), then unbolted the intake manifold. That freed up everything to come out the top.

We were able to preserve almost everything. One of the bend oil lines to the turbo had to be destroyed, but I've got several others. Aside from that, just about everything came off smoothly. We got the slider cam off, and it's incredibly smooth! It shows no signs of wear!

The drip tray completely clears everything, too. We didn't have to make any modifications. Also, the power steering pump just baaaaaarely squeezes past the intake manifold! phew

One problem is that the Mitsubishi turbo has a wider exhaust flange bolt pattern than the Garrett. We didn't want to cut the original exhaust pipe, and we couldn't replace the flange mount without cutting. Fortunately, we found a solution. We drilled out the mount holes on the exhaust port on the Mitsubishi to be elongated ovals. Now it will mount confidently to either size exhaust flange.

The next problem is still a bit unresolved. The throttle cable uses a different type of clip. We tried swapping the armature from the small throttle body to the large one, but it doesn't clear its own swing. The cruise control is not an issue. I'll switch the cruise control can. The throttle valve uses the same clip (I think), so we're good there. I'm going to check if the scrap Spirit R/T uses a compatible throttle cable, or if another cable will work.

@DOC G IROC helped out tremendously with the intake manifold. I was going to drill and tap for the charge air temp sensor, but he contributed a T2 manifold! Also it looks really sexy.

We also don't have any more T2 hoses, so I'm going to have to try making some. I'm going to use exhaust pipe (and probably the welder) and portions of T1 and T3 hoses to make it work. If I can find some T2 hoses in the future, that will be a very worthwhile upgrade.

All in all, it's coming along quite nicely!
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Glasses Smile Motor vehicle Automotive design Engineering


Here's the method we used. The original hole is about 3/8". I used a 7/16" carbide bit at an angle in (as you can see in the picture), then a 1/2" bit coming back down to straighten it. The end result was an oval that sufficiently overlaps both exhaust flange sizes.

And boy was that exhausting, haha!
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
The project was put on pause. I got sick. x.x I'll be hitting it again today.

I did one other small thing. I cut the holes in the turbo exhaust outlet a little better. I also think I have an easier way to do what I did before. Using the shaping cone from my Dremel kit, I was able to just stick it into the bolt hole and pull down. It was slow going, but it took a whole lot less effort and made a much neater cut.

Up next, I have to clean the rest of the hardware to go back on, decide whether to re-use or replace the turbo exhaust housing bolts, scavenge the oil and coolant lines and wastegate can from another turbo, install the back of the motor in order (IM, then EM, then turbo), install throttle body, install camshaft, replace timing belt, set time and install distributor, replace throttle cable (I hope), add connector adapter for TPS and AIS, install fuel rail with new fuel hose, install valve cover, install cooling lines, make new vacuum lines from scratch, make my own intercooler piping, possibly move or shrink the battery, cross fingers, drive, and enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive air manifold Automotive tire


So far so good. I didn't have a valve cover gasket. I thought I did. Otherwise I would have had a more complete-looking picture. Also I had a lot less time than I thought I would today...oh well.

The throttle cable was a cinch. No tools needed! I have all of the turbo oil and coolant lines clean and ready to put on. The manifolds, turbo, and exhaust are torqued down. I still need to put the turbo-to-block support bar on, too.

I think I'm going to slowly steal the air hoses from the Spirit to put on the New Yorker. The Spirit isn't even pretending to be original under the hood, where I want the New Yorker to at least look factory to the untrained eye. T2 air hoses are hard to find!
 

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View attachment 283294

Getting knee-deep into the engine....well, more like waist-deep.
View attachment 283312

So far so good. I didn't have a valve cover gasket. I thought I did. Otherwise I would have had a more complete-looking picture. Also I had a lot less time than I thought I would today...oh well.

The throttle cable was a cinch. No tools needed! I have all of the turbo oil and coolant lines clean and ready to put on. The manifolds, turbo, and exhaust are torqued down. I still need to put the turbo-to-block support bar on, too.

I think I'm going to slowly steal the air hoses from the Spirit to put on the New Yorker. The Spirit isn't even pretending to be original under the hood, where I want the New Yorker to at least look factory to the untrained eye. T2 air hoses are hard to find!
Got extra hoses if u need em on the fridge. Just gotta blow test make sure they are still good 30+ Years old...
Brown Auto part Fashion accessory Automotive design Circle


Also let me know how u endup doing the IAC and TPS (Ur favorite) I'm using 86 electronics similar to 85

The log IAC I'm just gonna leave plugged in so no codes and manually adjust the TB for idle. (spent way too much time fighting the IAC bolts on the T2 TB to get it removed and closed fully)

The TPS is different (I tried the log one won't work) but I think the 3 wires are the same so maybe splice em into the T2 TPS plug? I'm gonna try a TBI plug and sensor...

I think ur gonna surpass my T2 swap soon mines running "driving"
but have no oil line adapter (broke it lol) or drain hole anywhere, intercooler, O2, exhaust not hooked up, still on the Tbi pump, LM stuck underhood (no firewall hole wiring mess,tbi fuel pipes. this is gonna be a while...
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
T2 air hoses are gold! I'm always looking for them. You don't have an airbox to go with them, do you?

The log IAC is a simple motor, where the newer ones are steppers. I was going to see if I could make a plate to adapt the old IAC, but I'll probably do the same thing otherwise. I drove it for a while with the idle set via screw without any problem.

I'm stopping where I am to go home for dinner, but I'm darn close. I've got the oil and coolant lines from the turbo to the front of the motor hooked up, cam timing set, valve cover on, fuel rail, PCV, timing covers, crank pulley, AC bracket, and a few various other odds and ends hooked up. If I were fasting, I could finish this tonight. :-D
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
I couldn't find any way to make a T3 radiator work, because of the alternator. I tried putting the intercooler in front of the radiator, but since this is an automatic transmission car there's some bellhousing in the way. I'm installing a Honda radiator now, but fortunately it looks like I'll be able to use a T3 lower radiator hose and the 1985-style bypass coupler to make the lower hose.

I didn't realize until today, but the cruise control can is basically just the old add-in style like my 71 Buick had. Same switch on the turn signal stalk and everything. Anyone know of a way to get a newer style to work? This model uses a gear off of the output shaft.
 

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I couldn't find any way to make a T3 radiator work, because of the alternator. I tried putting the intercooler in front of the radiator, but since this is an automatic transmission car there's some bellhousing in the way. I'm installing a Honda radiator now, but fortunately it looks like I'll be able to use a T3 lower radiator hose and the 1985-style bypass coupler to make the lower hose.

I didn't realize until today, but the cruise control can is basically just the old add-in style like my 71 Buick had. Same switch on the turn signal stalk and everything. Anyone know of a way to get a newer style to work? This model uses a gear off of the output shaft.
Try using a nipondenso alternator it's much smaller it bolts right up it came on the 89 plus cars.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Auto part


As far as cruise control my 86 had this giant can that the speedometer cable went in and out of. The newer style uses a vac hose and a 3rd cable off the TB. If you have all the parts is the plug the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Damn, looks like that would have worked perfectly, and I have one. Oh well, I already got the Honda basically figured out, and it actually looks pretty good where it is.

I haven't actually checked the plug yet. The main reasons for pulling it off are that it gets in the way of the intercooler, and it also has a different type of hook than what the new throttle body takes. On second glance, if I can relocate it a little bit and replace the throttle cable, I think I'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
I hate being so close and not done. This is a temporary valve cover while @DOC G IROC works his magic on another one on the side. The throttle cable is hooked up (but not the TV cable). I still have to install the distributor, figure out all of the vacuum lines, hook up the TPS, bolt on the AC pulley, install the accessory belts, install fuel lines, fill the coolant, replace the fan connector, add one more bracket for the radiator, install the battery, and put the passenger front tire on. Other than that, I think that's all! I'm going to just live without the cruise control can for now, but I'm hoping I can simply swap out the throttle cable with a newer one.

Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Hood Automotive design


This is the neatest Honda radiator hose I've ever done! I used part of a T3 lower radiator hose and the original 1985 heater core bypass tee, nothing more. It's actually shorter, simpler, and more out-of-the-way than the stock hose. I left the transmission cooler nipples in place. The A413 has an aftermarket cooler, but I'm considering moving it to the Honda radiator so that it's also fan-cooled.

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I hate being so close and not done. This is a temporary valve cover while @DOC G IROC works his magic on another one on the side. The throttle cable is hooked up (but not the TV cable). I still have to install the distributor, figure out all of the vacuum lines, hook up the TPS, bolt on the AC pulley, install the accessory belts, install fuel lines, fill the coolant, replace the fan connector, add one more bracket for the radiator, install the battery, and put the passenger front tire on. Other than that, I think that's all! I'm going to just live without the cruise control can for now, but I'm hoping I can simply swap out the throttle cable with a newer one.

View attachment 283336

This is the neatest Honda radiator hose I've ever done! I used part of a T3 lower radiator hose and the original 1985 heater core bypass tee, nothing more. It's actually shorter, simpler, and more out-of-the-way than the stock hose. I left the transmission cooler nipples in place. The A413 has an aftermarket cooler, but I'm considering moving it to the Honda radiator so that it's also fan-cooled.

View attachment 283337
At least you are doing it the right way I just drove mine down the street on the TBI fuel pump so I can only idle it and I still don't have an oil line for the Turbo either...
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Well, we took it out on the road, and I'd say it's pretty close to where I want it. (-: It's dialed in with an MBC to about 10 PSI. It bogs a little bit after takeoff, so we have to figure out if it's losing fuel pressure, not timed right (it's nearly impossible to set time right), or maybe even hunching. I'm not hearing any detonation, so that's good. I think it's very likely the timing is simply still wrong.

The Mitsubishi turbo belongs on the 2.2, and the Garrett belongs on the 2.5. I just don't know if I'm willing to do the 1987 LM swap just to get a working IAC, but we might be able to make a bypass for the linear motor type.
 

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Well, we took it out on the road, and I'd say it's pretty close to where I want it. (-: It's dialed in with an MBC to about 10 PSI. It bogs a little bit after takeoff, so we have to figure out if it's losing fuel pressure, not timed right (it's nearly impossible to set time right), or maybe even hunching. I'm not hearing any detonation, so that's good. I think it's very likely the timing is simply still wrong.

The Mitsubishi turbo belongs on the 2.2, and the Garrett belongs on the 2.5. I just don't know if I'm willing to do the 1987 LM swap just to get a working IAC, but we might be able to make a bypass for the linear motor type.
Might be wrong injectors?

The T1 pre 88 injectors are 27PPH and the 87+ T2 injectors are 33PPH.

Too rich and it can bog. I used the log injectors on my swap to match the LM's programming.

Or it could be cam or ignition timing, vac leaks, Tps etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 · (Edited)
I left the 27 PPH injectors in. I did bump the timing forward a touch, and it helped dramatically. It's a heck of a lot better driving now! At 10 PSI, it's a world better than it was before.

Here's my new to-do list:

A/C Belt
Improved mount for the radiator and intercooler
Replace valve cover with pretty one
Transmission fluid and filter change
rotor button
make a new IAC adapter
relocate cruise control and find a way to connect it to the throttle
replace purge can and hook it back up
headliner
fix trip computer buttons
try out the BOV

My wife was very happy to hear me say that I plan to just drive this car. It lacks nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Oh crap, I didn't mention what I was thinking of doing for the IAC. I'm going to see if I can get a piece of PVC that fits snugly over the larger O-ring, a piece of PVC that fits snugly over the smaller end (the output end), and a couple threaded barbs. Seal everything with PVC primer and glue, put the new contraption in-line with the brake booster, and tada! 2-wire IAC!
 
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