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long story short I always wanted a First gen car with a T3 16 valve DOHC motor. I much rather like the car styling form the first gen cars I'm not going to be doing any extreme racing and if I did I would rather use an 8V sohc 2.2l turbo w/forged pistons because its harder to find parts and more expensive for the T3 and I would use an L body like an Omni or Rampage. it's gonna be used for probably a little bit of everything bit of a show car but would like to focus more on road racing and autocross if I had to prioritize. power goals are between 250-300 whatever I can get away with using stock parts even if that means lower power numbers. but more than anything I'm focused on piecing together everything and getting it to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
long story short I always wanted a First gen car with a T3 16 valve DOHC motor. I much rather like the car styling form the first gen cars I'm not going to be doing any extreme racing and if I did I would rather use an 8V sohc 2.2l turbo w/forged pistons because its harder to find parts and more expensive for the T3 and I would use an L body like an Omni or Rampage. it's gonna be used for probably a little bit of everything bit of a show car but would like to focus more on road racing and autocross if I had to prioritize. power goals are between 250-300 whatever I can get away with using stock parts even if that means lower power numbers. but more than anything I'm focused on piecing together everything and getting it to run.
Gotcha 250 to 300 is fairly simple with the t3 motor. just wanted to make sure you know what you're getting into. unless you have a stockpile saved up, they're getting really hard to come by.

If I were you, I would seriously consider running a stand-alone. so much easier and are a much better tuning platform. This will maximize the power you can get out of this motor.

So for the motor mounts, the passenger side and front mount you will use off of the 86 donor car. You will also be using the driver side trans mount from the A525 you will just have to notch it to fit onto the A5 68. The rear bobble strut will line up but only on one side of the two tabs. what most people do is use a spacer between the two tabs and a longer bolt. you can also buy a new tab and have it welded onto your k frame if you want to line it up perfectly.

You will also need the A568 shifter cables, clutch cable, and throttle cable.


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forget weight savings .. the front end can now actually be made "straight' without all the flexible plastic

and goodbye nose to fender seam and the pucker of the flexible nose where it presses against the front of the fender

YEA !!!

an underside of the hood pic would be interesting..

my question is how did it ship and how was it packaged??

and how long between ordering it and receiving it - or at least knowing it was ready to ship ??

(I want the charger front end , hood , back bumper and the daytona dash)
 

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Discussion Starter #47
forget weight savings .. the front end can now actually be made "straight' without all the flexible plastic

and goodbye nose to fender seam and the pucker of the flexible nose where it presses against the front of the fender

YEA !!!

an underside of the hood pic would be interesting..

my question is how did it ship and how was it packaged??

and how long between ordering it and receiving it - or at least knowing it was ready to ship ??

(I want the charger front end , hood , back bumper and the daytona dash)
Was about three weeks. Shipping from Jacksonville FL to Merrimack NH was 2days.


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Cool! I saw your Facebook post yesterday. Are these the standard fiberglass pieces or are some the light weight composite? $2200 didn't seem bad at all. I want to get the composite hatch for L body for my GLHS.

-Mark Lucas
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Cool! I saw your Facebook post yesterday. Are these the standard fiberglass pieces or are some the light weight composite? $2200 didn't seem bad at all. I want to get the composite hatch for L body for my GLHS.

-Mark Lucas
Regular fiberglass, the stuff is super sturdy too

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good to know the delivery time is so short , thanks

and if anyone is looking for fiberglass parts STAY AWAY from "showcars" here near toronto
you'll never get anything..even if you paid
 

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Discussion Starter #51
good to know the delivery time is so short , thanks

and if anyone is looking for fiberglass parts STAY AWAY from "showcars" here near toronto
you'll never get anything..even if you paid
Yeah, I was actually talking to the driver they said they're doing away with their storage places because it's so ridiculously expensive. that's why they just get stuff immediately delivered.

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forget weight savings .. the front end can now actually be made "straight' without all the flexible plastic
-250lbs plus best ET so far = 9's

I don't think that's forgettable.......;)
 

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sorry for the one post thread jack...
we need to find a "charger" guy in florida

you know .. someone who could drop off a decent shelby charger airdam for them to copy

a straight rigid , one piece airdam for your shelby charger .. priceless - and possibly marketable
being they're into limited production odd ball stuff something with a small market group is what they cater to - if they know it's there I'd presume
 

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Discussion Starter #56
sorry for the one post thread jack...
we need to find a "charger" guy in florida

you know .. someone who could drop off a decent shelby charger airdam for them to copy

a straight rigid , one piece airdam for your shelby charger .. priceless - and possibly marketable
being they're into limited production odd ball stuff something with a small market group is what they cater to - if they know it's there I'd presume
No problem. give them a call you'd be surprised what a phone call can do!

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OK , ..
here I was happy just hoping I could still get a flat hood and rear bumper

ahhh .. I am so frustratingly encouraged now .. thanks for the update on your project !!

and I'm really looking forward to seeing it go together

not sure how you would think of attaching your front clip but I've figured I'd skin my fenders while still on the car

take the nose off and cut the tops , leaving enough to fit inside the top of the fiberglass fender
leave the inner support for the dogleg and very bottom of fender where it mounts to the rocker , for now
and cut down along the front corner where the nose bolts on , leaving for now the edge the nose bolted to

this keeps everything still enclosed from the rad cradle sides to the insides of each fender skin in the front corners
- and leaves a strong support knowing the fender's eventually gonna get leaned on , hard

two top strips , the brace drilled like cheese and the front inner fender "pans" can't weigh much and might get a lot done , well

and if your front end is on straight now it should help get the new one on straight even if you only end up using the fender bits for alignment as you work

now I'm thinking I could maybe actually get my hood project done while it's still nice and warm - outside , in the backyard away from everything of value

I found an exaggerated cowl scoop for a new style vette with some serious ventilation for the rad area at the front - big enough to almost be an entirely new center section of the charger hood

it's stupidly tall but I only want the top surface and part of the top most rise of the "cowl" shape to make a double layer center that I can then add my 3" mini old style pro stock dodge snorkel scoop on top of .. and make it feed to the original filter location at the end of the head - instead of the typical effort to put a big cone filter on the inner fender and get a huge pipe from it to the turbo

so think panel filter and tube more or less down from the hood to the turbo

-have a brand new discontinued accell foam filter that is almost zero resistance
bonus - I don't have to make room for the filter in my little L body if I put it up on top of the hood , sorta
I know it won't be light but better than the dead weight do nothing shelby hood

lol , yeah I did say snorkel scoop .. but it's a cute little "to scale" one for my car
(ha and after I posted last night I found a T/A scoop for a new challenger , a real mopar one , dirt cheep to boot - so forget little "prostock" scoop
 

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Discussion Starter #58
OK , ..

here I was happy just hoping I could still get a flat hood and rear bumper



ahhh .. I am so frustratingly encouraged now .. thanks for the update on your project !!



and I'm really looking forward to seeing it go together



not sure how you would think of attaching your front clip but I've figured I'd skin my fenders while still on the car



take the nose off and cut the tops , leaving enough to fit inside the top of the fiberglass fender

leave the inner support for the dogleg and very bottom of fender where it mounts to the rocker , for now

and cut down along the front corner where the nose bolts on , leaving for now the edge the nose bolted to



this keeps everything still enclosed from the rad cradle sides to the insides of each fender skin in the front corners

- and leaves a strong support knowing the fender's eventually gonna get leaned on , hard



two top strips , the brace drilled like cheese and the front inner fender "pans" can't weigh much and might get a lot done , well



and if your front end is on straight now it should help get the new one on straight even if you only end up using the fender bits for alignment as you work



now I'm thinking I could maybe actually get my hood project done while it's still nice and warm - outside , in the backyard away from everything of value



I found an exaggerated cowl scoop for a new style vette with some serious ventilation for the rad area at the front - big enough to almost be an entirely new center section of the charger hood



it's stupidly tall but I only want the top surface and part of the top most rise of the "cowl" shape to make a double layer center that I can then add my 3" mini old style pro stock dodge snorkel scoop on top of .. and make it feed to the original filter location at the end of the head - instead of the typical effort to put a big cone filter on the inner fender and get a huge pipe from it to the turbo



so think panel filter and tube more or less down from the hood to the turbo



-have a brand new discontinued accell foam filter that is almost zero resistance

bonus - I don't have to make room for the filter in my little L body if I put it up on top of the hood , sorta

I know it won't be light but better than the dead weight do nothing shelby hood



lol , yeah I did say snorkel scoop .. but it's a cute little "to scale" one for my car

(ha and after I posted last night I found a T/A scoop for a new challenger , a real mopar one , dirt cheep to boot - so forget little "prostock" scoop
That's a whole lot of words, we just simple folk here, LOL

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that'd be the frustrated motivation and enthusiasm you provoked...
(want it now factor)
like I said much thanks - seriously -
 
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