Thanks to James and Cindy at FWDPerformance for all the help with my project.
Dyno run in my T3 powered 1986 Daytona.
Aem EMS-4 Stand Alone tuner.
474whp@7000RPM 545hp@Crank
26psi with a 60/40 93oct/E85 blend
Stock intake manifold, fuel rail, and exhaust manifold.
Finally able to get some full passes in with the wider sticker drag radials and get my profec spec 2 to control boost.
Car is capable of so much more, but I do not want to push my luck with the stock T3 rods. I have a fully built race motor to go in, this was just a test and tune motor.
I bought this car in 1999 for $500 from the backlot of a kia dealership.
1986 dodge daytona turbo z c/s. Originally a white ext maroon int, turbo i, 5 speed manual trans car. After blowing a hole in the a525 trans housing, trans was upgraded to a heavy duty a568 getrag unit and a spirit r/t stock clutch, boost was also increased to 14psi from the stock 9psi. Car ran very well for about a year. The boost and aggressive driving finally took its toll on the original engine(had 125k on it).
Upgraded to a t2 motor from a 88 shelby z and a new turbo from tu. Car ran like a dream.
After that i bought a spirit r/t. That was it, so much easier to make power with the dohc motor. It had a stock 1991 dohc motor with a custom cal.(set at 20psi), 20 inj., and 3" mb exhaust. This was installed as a test fit/function before paint work was done.
to lighten it up, this car has been gutted totally, doors, speaker area, spare tire well, as long as it wasn't structural I cut it out. I even cut off all bolts to length.
where the spare tire well used to be is now all Lexan.
Most, if not all, of these pictures are at least as old as august last year. there has been many more improvements and changes since then. I do not think I will ever be done modifying/improving the car.
I used the rear seat belt holes. They already are reinforced anchor points. I do plan on running another set just in case of failure. It would suck if one came loose jacking up one side of the car when going down the track.
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