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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks!

I know this has been discussed many a time here. I'm just hoping for a few specifics. I bought a Drum to Disc Rear Brake Conversion kit from an enthusiast on Facebook. However, I've never done a Drum to Disc Conversion before, so I want to make sure I don't screw anything up. I have a 1986 GLHS inherited from my father-in-law, and I'll be converting the Rear Drum Brakes to Discs. Here are the parts I have for the conversion, as well as the basic instructions from the seller:

For all Chrysler K-cars from 84-93 such as Omni and Charger, Daytona, Shadow, Spirit, Lancer, Laser. Completely refurbished, ready to install and run, solid (non-vented) rear disk brake set-up, complete with the following:
(2) OEM solid disk brake hubs/spindles and mounting hardware
(4) New Timken inner & outer bearings & new grease seals
(2) Caliper backing plates (left and right)
(2) OEM calipers (left and right)
(4) New internal emergency brake shoes
(2) New Wagner rotors
(2) New rubber caliper to bracket hoses with copper sealing washers
(2) All solid brake line mounting brackets and hardware,
(1) All internal small pieces (adjusters, springs, e-brake levers)
(1) Set of semi-metallic disk brake pads
(1) Correct OEM solid rear disk proportioning valve

What's not included:
Metal lines from caliper rubber hose to body rubber hose, body specific parking brake cables. The metal line is the line that goes across the swing arm. Just buy pre-flared brake line at NAPA/any parts store and bend your own. But all the mounting hardware for this line is included!

This is the much preferred later, 89+ style rear disk brake design with the internal emergency brake system that uses the small brake shoes for emergency brakes, not the style that uses the caliper as the emergency brake.

Both left and right sides have been completely disassembled, cleaned refinished and reassembled. Bearings replaced with high quality Timken brand bearings and repacked with Lucas synthetic red grease, rear bearing seals replaced with quality Timken brand. Calipers operate perfectly and have excellent boots. Caliper brake pad glide rails are in excellent/perfect shape.
New rotors ARE included also!
Here is a link to a few pictures of my conversion kit.

Has anyone done a conversion similar to this one and documented it, either through video or just a set of photos? I know it's supposed to be an easy bolt on, but I don't want to screw anything up. I'm particularly interested in:

a.) How easy/challenging it was to install the new proportioning valve.
b.) How the emergency brake cables attach.
c.) Will I need to buy any pre-flared brake line to make this work?
d.) Any photos/videos of the process you're willing to share?

Thanks for all your help. This has been a fun journey, and I've really enjoyed working on this car!

Premium Member
1,625 Posts
This subject came up during the Tech Seminar at SDAC-5.
Dave Zelkowski, an engineer at Chrysler said that it was a better idea to upgrade the front disks because most of the weight is up front on an L-body.
The minivan brake components used in that conversion became later known as the SLH package.
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