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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

OK; I've been on TD for a few years or so and, I've talked and discussed, and rambled on about the GLHS I own and how I intend to make it an incredible vehicle.

I'm starting this log today because I'm beginning the
"resto-boostaholic-adgenda".
I've been planning, educating myself more thoroughly, making contacts here and more planning for three years now.

The intentions are pretty detailed at this point and here's the "vision":
A GLHS rivaled by no other!
11 second 1/4 mile with the license plate on the back.
Total vehicle weight of 2200lbs(or less), with me in the driver's seat(170lbs).

I've been in contact with several TDers here and this vision is VERY-VERY achievable.

I bought the vehicle from Forward Motion Inc - Specializing in FWD Dodge Performance Parts (Mike was selling it for a guy from Texas), and it was a beauty! 67930 original miles! Here's what it looked like the day I brought it home:




The vehicle had already had a few mods done by Mike at Forward Motion Inc - Specializing in FWD Dodge Performance Parts. An "Enforcer I" turbo, "Enforcer I" cylinder head with +1mm valves, +20% injectors, MP stage 2 module and a 3" complete exhaust with "blow through" cat.
After a few modifications to the factory air intake system(Factory air box removal etc) and an upgraded coil and wires, she was pretty "pissed"(exactly the emotion I like my cars to have(lol). But low and behold, I blew the a525.
I was already aware of the "weakest link" in the GLHS's character make-up, having had a GLHS years ago that did the same thing. So, I knew it was just a matter of time until the 525 pooped the bed on me(lol).

At this point, the vehicle is on blocks in my driveway and has been there for a while now. Here's a pic:

(even in this condition, you can see how "clean" this vehicle is)

I'm starting the project with the brakes and suspension in mind first so I can get the vehicle into a "roller" in case I need to ship it anywhere for something(or just to move it around with ease).

I have FINALLY got my hands on the parts required to do the SLH3 four wheel disc brake modification(well, they're in the mail anyway).
I had been in touch with THREE different people here at TD that had said they had the parts but, when it came time for me to purchase them, these people all kind of "disappeared"(lol).
Oh well, Mike at Forward Motion Inc - Specializing in FWD Dodge Performance Parts to the rescue! Mike had what I needed and shipped the parts today!

As I go through the steps of the build, everything will be documented here.
As I said before, the SLH3 upgrade and suspension system mods will be first.
These two systems will be addressed kind of simultaneously.

I've been in touch with Koni and, their prices are a bit "steep" but, suspension upgrades have been quite difficult to find. The Konis seem to be the very best system for the "L" body cars.
Here's a pic I found from a guy who had his done:

It cost him right around $600.00 for this but, the result speaks for itself! Wouldn't you agree?
I've been in touch with Koni and, YES, they are still rebuilding these today. So, if you want yours done, simply go to Koni: Koni: us-na-redirect

For today, I'll end it there. By the weekend(Hopefully), I'll be removing the rear suspension, cleaning and modifying it and, reinstalling with the SLH3 brakes.

I'll post any info as I go along.
Thanks for looking and have a wonderful day!!!:hello2:
 

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didn't know Koni was doing that. Good to know , btw the car looked awesome ,what happened ? not that it doesn't look re-buildable .
 

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Discussion Starter #4
didn't know Koni was doing that. Good to know , btw the car looked awesome ,what happened ? not that it doesn't look re-buildable .
I agree, It DID "look" awesome but, It just didn't kick enough A**(lol)
When I picked this car up from Forward Motion in 2009, I drove it home from Wilmington, DE(about 150 miles), and it was fast but, not "scary" fast.
My friend and I got into a bit of a challenge with a 2008 BMW MINI turbo on the way home and that guy was pretty sorry he revved his engine next to me!

But the GLHS just wasn't what my previous GLHS(#0309) was. I guess after driving with 30psi of boost, the factory levels just don't do it for me anymore.

When this vehicle is completed, It will still have the fantastic looks of the GLHS. The changes I'll be making to the appearance will be difficult but, not necessarily BIG changes.
For example, I'm mounting a front mount Intercooler that will require the center "posts" of the bumper support to be removed
(Here's a pic I crudely altered):

Like I said, "crudely altered"(lol) But that's close to the idea.

The other mods I'll be making which will alter the appearance slightly would be the vents I'll be installing in the front fenders(kind of where European Turn Signals go), to vent in air through plumbing which will cool the brakes up front and also blow fresh air directly to the rear of the engine(ie: Turbo, exhaust mani, etc.).
This idea is a pretty ingenious one(if I do say so myself). The design I have drawn up includes a "Y" pipe that splits the incoming air at the inner fender well(kinda), directing half to the front brakes and the other half to the exhaust side of the engine bay.

BUT AAANNYYYWAY.....
Right now, I'm on the Brakes and Suspension phase of the build(it's SO easy to get distracted with other phases of the project(lol).

I removed the rear drum brake system completely and next, I'll be removing the entire rear suspension system(The weather here in North East PA has been "nice" but the wind is blowing at a steady 30mph!). While removed, I'll clean everything and then I'm taking the rear "I" beam(which is actually a "U") to my friend's welding shop to be altered.
An old friend of mine who used to own the local Dodge dealership has ALL KINDS of literature that I've never seen concerning the handling characteristics of our TDs.
I found an old article written by a man named E.F. Nowak that suggests welding a flat steel plate across the length of the "U" beam to kind of "box it", which will make the rear suspension a lot stiffer.
I did this with my last GLHS and the difference was incredible. And best of all, the whole mod was FREE!!! I used scrap steel and a friend welded it in for me. I cleaned up the rough edges with a grinder, reinstalled the factory rear sway bar and off I went!

It's difficult for me to not "ramble on" about this vehicle.
But stay tuned and, there will be a lot more rambling soon(lol)

The POPE and I were talking about the lack of a manual trans building thread and, between the two of us, we may get one started.
I have a couple of 555s here(As you know Ythorse) and, I'll be building one of them for the GLHS.
I intend to take many-many pics throughout the entire rebuild as it will be a "learn as I go" endeavor using the FSM(Thanks to ILIKESHELBYS for educating me about the meaning of "FSM" Factory Shop Manual :bang head (lol).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Subscribed! What will you do to get her down to 2200 Lbs?
Well METZ, I basically take the entire car apart piece by pice(not all at once but, as I go along) and, everything that's not ABSOLUTELY necessary gets deleted!
As I've said many times, I used to own GLHS#0309 and, it's weight was 2160lbs with me IN IT!!!(I was only 150 then(lol).
So, I see NO problems getting this vehicle to right around that same weight.

When I was "lightening" the last GLHS, I found most of the unnecessary weight to be in the interior.
The factory Shelby buckets are VERY heavy!
And even that rear seat is a "brick" that'll probably go.

As I move along throughout the build, I'll include the "weight loss" techniques I employ.

Thanks for subscribing bro!:D
 

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Let's get it up an running then up grade never let it set out side in less running
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Let's get it up an running then up grade never let it set out side in less running
Yeah, I feel the same way but, as for now, it's off the ground and covered top and bottom.
Once I get the brakes and suspension done, I may move into a garage for the remainder of the build.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I got the rear suspension out from under her yesterday.
AND... I made a VERY ALARMING discovery!!!

Here's a pic:

Yep, you guessed it!(maybe)...:eek:
NO, I didn't snap that bolt. I didn't even need to remove this particular bolt to remove the suspension.
It's the bolt that attaches the rear beam to the mounting bracket.
And YES, it's head is sheared right off!
I have no clue when this happened but, I DO know that if that particular bolt ever decided to walk its way out of there while I was driving...
YOW, it scares me just to think of the possibilities.

Other than that, the entire system is in pretty darn good condition. And the undercarriage of the vehicle is pristine.
Here's a few more pics I snapped while under there:




It'll be MUCH easier to remove the fuel tank this way!!(lol)


And here's the suspension system(The beam anyway), on my front porch:

(Yes; That's my short block on the stand and my cylinder head in the drain pan. I've got things all over the place. I started this project when I wasn't very "focused"(lol)

The SLH3 parts are on their way!
And after I completely disassemble the rear "I" beam, I'll take it to be modified(Welded to a "box" rather than the "U" it is now)

And, I'll be removing the fuel tank to perform a sending unit mod I found at Turbo Mopar.
Here's a link to that(this link takes you directly to page 3 of the thread but, the whole thing is pretty good stuff):
L body fuel system upgrade - Page 3
Thanks, Skibbe !

That's all I've got for now and, it may not seem like much but, I intend to include every little thing I do.

Thanks again for checking back!:D
 

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1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

OK; I've been on TD for a few years or so and, I've talked and discussed, and rambled on about the GLHS I own and how I intend to make it an incredible vehicle.

I'm starting this log today because I'm beginning the
"resto-boostaholic-adgenda".
I've been planning, educating myself more thoroughly, making contacts here and more planning for three years now.

The intentions are pretty detailed at this point and here's the "vision":
A GLHS rivaled by no other!
11 second 1/4 mile with the license plate on the back.
Total vehicle weight of 2200lbs(or less), with me in the driver's seat(170lbs).

I've been in contact with several TDers here and this vision is VERY-VERY achievable.

I bought the vehicle from Forward Motion Inc - Specializing in FWD Dodge Performance Parts (Mike was selling it for a guy from Texas), and it was a beauty! 67930 original miles! Here's what it looked like the day I brought it home:




The vehicle had already had a few mods done by Mike at Forward Motion Inc - Specializing in FWD Dodge Performance Parts. An "Enforcer I" turbo, "Enforcer I" cylinder head with +1mm valves, +20% injectors, MP stage 2 module and a 3" complete exhaust with "blow through" cat.
After a few modifications to the factory air intake system(Factory air box removal etc) and an upgraded coil and wires, she was pretty "pissed"(exactly the emotion I like my cars to have(lol). But low and behold, I blew the a525.
I was already aware of the "weakest link" in the GLHS's character make-up, having had a GLHS years ago that did the same thing. So, I knew it was just a matter of time until the 525 pooped the bed on me(lol).

At this point, the vehicle is on blocks in my driveway and has been there for a while now. Here's a pic:

(even in this condition, you can see how "clean" this vehicle is)

I'm starting the project with the brakes and suspension in mind first so I can get the vehicle into a "roller" in case I need to ship it anywhere for something(or just to move it around with ease).

I have FINALLY got my hands on the parts required to do the SLH3 four wheel disc brake modification(well, they're in the mail anyway).
I had been in touch with THREE different people here at TD that had said they had the parts but, when it came time for me to purchase them, these people all kind of "disappeared"(lol).
Oh well, Mike at Forward Motion Inc - Specializing in FWD Dodge Performance Parts to the rescue! Mike had what I needed and shipped the parts today!

As I go through the steps of the build, everything will be documented here.
As I said before, the SLH3 upgrade and suspension system mods will be first.
These two systems will be addressed kind of simultaneously.

I've been in touch with Koni and, their prices are a bit "steep" but, suspension upgrades have been quite difficult to find. The Konis seem to be the very best system for the "L" body cars.
Here's a pic I found from a guy who had his done:

It cost him right around $600.00 for this but, the result speaks for itself! Wouldn't you agree?
I've been in touch with Koni and, YES, they are still rebuilding these today. So, if you want yours done, simply go to Koni: Koni: us-na-redirect

For today, I'll end it there. By the weekend(Hopefully), I'll be removing the rear suspension, cleaning and modifying it and, reinstalling with the SLH3 brakes.

I'll post any info as I go along.
Thanks for looking and have a wonderful day!!!:hello2:
Nice PIcs I'm also sending Knoi stuts off.They quoted rebuild 150.00 ea plus parts.Hoping mine look just as nice also eibach 1 inch lowering springs what springs you using.
 

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How long did it take to get your koni rebuilds back
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How long did it take to get your koni rebuilds back
I guess I'll answer both of your questions here:
The Konis pictured aren't mine. They are a set someone else had done and sent me the pic to let me know what I'd get back if I were to send mine to Koni.

As far as springs...I still haven't decided(not that there's a bunch of options that I know of).
Either the MP 1" lowering springs or some other company.
Whichever way I go, I'm sure they'll be at least 1" lowering springs.
That 1" decision will depend on what wheels and tires I'll choose.
Plus, I'll have to talk to Koni to see if the factory rebuilds can be built to specs for anything lower.

That reminds me: When you contact Koni, they allow you to choose the damper rate and several other specs to your own liking.
They're pretty user friendly. They'll rebuild your Konis however you like!


Best wishes to you my friend! :D
 

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i just having them back to stock koni spec. ill sell them in this fall an go coil overs is the plan
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
So, I bought the white gauge inlays(which are AWESOME!!!), and then I reassembled the cluster.


Well, when I ran 12 VDC to it through a power supply, I noticed that the inlays had dimmed the light(Obviously!).
So, I got to thinking: What if I figured out a way to install L.E.D. lights to shine ONTO the gauges?
Well, I figured out a way.
What I'm doing is installing an additional piece of plastic to mount a strip of L.E.D.s to, which will have them facing the gauges.
Here's the strip type L.E.D.s I'll be installing:
Unlit:

Lit:

(this pic is a bit deceiving; I'm only installing one of these strips)

Here's a few pics of the cluster bezel as I moved along through this procedure:
Here, I glued in a piece of plastic I had shaped roughly to the inner walls of the cluster, and applied the first coat of "Plastic-weld":


Then I sanded to remove the high spots:




Corrected any spots where there were obvious errors:


And now that it's sanded, just the finishing touches to make it smooth and I'll be set to paint it.


I used a rounded "canister" type sanding bit to shape the plastic after it was welded to the cluster bezel:

There's probably a million ways to do this but, I like the right angle drill's control of speed the best.

All that's left is to install the L.E.D. strip.
Wiring it directly to the cluster lights "+" and "-" posts.

The next post here will be the pic of the finished product...
 

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Nice idea! I didnt think my dash was bright enough either so I painted the back silver to reflect more light. Maybe its our eyesight getting bad from old age. LOL You have a nice project going, keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice idea! I didnt think my dash was bright enough either so I painted the back silver to reflect more light. Maybe its our eyesight getting bad from old age. LOL You have a nice project going, keep up the good work!
Thanks for checking it out and thanks for the compliments.

I intend to illustrate every little thing I do to it.

I have several aspects of the build "in motion" but I try to stay focused on each one individually.
This is sometime difficult due to parts availability, etc. So, the "little things" I kind of treat as "in betweeners"(lol)

I'll be posting the finished cluster tomorrow.
I hope it turns out well. I've kind of seen how it'll look and the L.E.D.s are AMAZING!!!

Once again, thank you.
Best wishes to you my friend.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OK; Cluster is done:

Here's the final steps I had to take to get the L.E.D.s mounted properly.

Had to sand out a "channel" for part of the light strip that "flapped over" to lay in:


Basically, the entire strip (including the end of the wiring) was a bit too long.
So, I had to figure out a way to utilize the ENTIRE strip of lights:

This "channel" I added to the cluster innards will work out fine.


SHAZAM!!! Finished product



Note: If you intend to do this, remember to remove the incandescent bulbs from the cluster circuit board(just the cluster illumination ones).
They don't play well together(lol).
L.E.D.s are lights but, remember, they are still diodes!
Current flows in only one direction through them so, when wired in along with incandescent bulbs, BAD things could happen.

Thanks for checking out my Project log;
Who knows what I'll be up to next?
There's TONS of things left to do so, check beck often.

Have a great day!:D
 

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coolbeans
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
So, back to the SLH3 mod:
I got the rear backing plates/caliper mounts, spindles and hubs.



And, I'm awaiting the rear calipers I've ordered(which was "fun"(lol) with NO cores).
And finally, I intend to get the braided lines from FWD Perf for the "L" body SLH mod.

When I receive these parts, I'll document the entire procedure thoroughly.

Have a great day!!!:D

CHANGES!!!
Well, after a few conversations with The Pope(an EXCELLENT TDer),
I've decided to go SLH4 with the brakes.
So, now the 11 1/4" rear vented and cross drilled rotors won't be hogging up all the STOP for my GLHS!(lol)

The SLH4 system is an 89-90 Shelby Daytona system basically.
I'll be using Daytona Knuckles, the GLHS Koni struts(with adapters/spacers by Rich Bryant),
and the GLHS rear Konis with "Ground Control" Omni coilovers at all four corners, pictured below:

(This system can be found here: Ground Control - Coilover Conversion Kit, '79-'90 Dodge Omni - (incl. GLH, GLHS, Turbo) )
This is a system that basically "converts" the factory Konis to fully adjustable coilover shocks and struts.

The "G" body(Shelby Daytona) struts CAN BE used in this mod:
There's a very simple mod to the strut so it'll accept the "L" body strut mount up top,
(basically a spacer for the proper fitment), but other than that, it's a BOLT ON procedure!
(Una here at TD has a write up about it on his 2.4 swap into an 88 Omni blog; Which can be found here: Daytona struts work! )
(Also, a lot of VERY useful info contained therein. Una is another exceptional TDer with great knowledge of our beloved TDs)
I would have used Una's info and, went with the Daytona struts; However,
I wouldn't be able to get the 17" wheels/tires under the strut perch.
So, I stuck with the "L" body struts and I'll use the equipment Rich Bryant makes for this conversion.
Rich's site is here:
http://rbryant.freeshell.org/index.htm

Here's how The Pope explains SLH4 to me:
"I run it with Daytona front Konis and GLHS rear Konis.
I rebuild them with drilled and slotted rotors and use SS pistons.
I also add the HAWK racing pads out back, FULL metallic and run
cheap stock pads up front.
The race pads don't have much friction until pushed,
the stock pads grab quickly with a lot of friction.
This adds the brake bias for a little more up front,
and easier to modulate the braking"

(I'll be doing everything The Pope said, other than using the Daytona Konis)

Thanks again to The Pope and Una!
There are several TDers who know their stuff, and I highly recommend everyone
search them out and make good use of all they have to offer.
It's a very simple procedure finding the TDers who know what the heck they're talking about;
Check their posts and the threads they've started.
You'll see the guys who have offered useful info have miles and miles of "Thank yous" from everyone!
They are the guys to ask!!!

Have a great day everyone!!!:D

Oh BTW: This coilover system is EXPENSIVE(in my thin dime opinion, but well worth it),
so if you're subscribed to this build log, you may see some "irratic" methods being employed.
What I mean is this: it may appear that I'm "jumping around" from system to system rather than focusing on one particular system at a time.
I don't necessarily "like" to operate in this fashion, but the money is always an issue.
I'm sure most other TDers understand my position.

Thanks for checking back, and ANY advise or opinions are welcomed.
UPDATE:(3/14/13) NOW, I've found out that Neon front suspension is basically a "Bolt in" fit for the "L" body.
So, I'm going to find out exactly what I can do to use Neon parts up front.
See, there are thousands of companies that make Neon performance parts(Suspension/brakes/etc), so I'll do my best to head in that direction for the front. I'll keep it all posted.

My very best wishes to everyone!!!:D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I got the fuel tank out and, as, expected,
the under-side of the GLHS is IMMACULATE!!
Here's a few pics:

There's a bit of fuel tank insulation still stuck to the undercarriage,
but I'll make quick work of that before I undercoat it.


And the yellow rope you see there is what
I'm using to secure the car cover tightly.





On the 3rd of May, I'll be ordering the Fuel Pump:
it's the DeatschWerks DW300 320 LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump.
Recommended by The Pope;

When compared to other 320lph pumps, this one
has a much better consistency of flow than ANY other I've looked at.

I'll also be replacing the Fuel feed line with 3/8" line,
and using the factory 5/16" feed line as the return line.
(yet another suggestion from The Pope)

But in addition to the suggestions from The Pope,
I'll also be altering the fuel sending unit with 3/8" fuel feed line,
and 5/16" fuel return line.
This way, the larger lines will start from the very "start"(lol)

Once again, I'll keep everything posted here.
Have a wonderful day!!!

So, the next thing I post should be the alterations to the sending unit.
Stay tuned!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK;
Fuel sending unit alterations:
I wanted to alter the sending unit so the increased line size would run from start to finish.
I took several pictures of the unit prior to dis dis-assembly to avoid
clocking the lines and float wrong, and so I would know the exact positioning of the other parts to be welded to the lines.
Here's what I got so far:
Bought replacement line to use for the unit.
I bought steel brake line. I researched this, and it's fine to use as fuel line,
but DO NOT use fuel line for brake line.
Fuel lines are tested at around 100psi; whereas brake line is checked at 1000s of psi. Much safer and more reliable.

(replacing the feed line with 3/8" and replacing the return line with 5/16")
Note; I'll use the factory feed line as my return line from the engine bay to the tank(cuts down the work involved)
That's a recommendation from The Pope; Thanks Pope

I removed the pump and everything else I could remove simply, and placed it aside:




Cut the factory lines off of the unit:






Cut the lines here nearly all the way through, and just grabbed the piece with channel locks and tore it out of there:


Had to cut the float signal wire(easy repair once re-assembled):


Flared the ends of the new lines(Not completely. Just enough to create a "lip" for the hose to be held tightly with):


Removed return line filter, and reattached it to the new line:




Now for the "tricky" part of the process;
I removed the pump bucket retainer bracket and float:
(I simply cut the spot welds with the high speed mini cut of tool)




Notice the holes I drilled in the float mount;
I did the same for the pump retainer bracket for later plug welds back to the line:


With the lines gone, I drilled the two holes using the remaining "bits" of old line as a guide:




Then I cleaned up the holes for proper weld adhesion:


Installed the new lines(with flared ends), used the tubing bender to match them to the old lines, and all that's left is to TIG the lines to the sending unit, and plug welds for the float and pump mount(My "TIG weld guy" will get to that in a few days. I'll post the pics of the complete unit then)


It's coming along nicely, and I feel it will work really well.

Next up(as I await my welder guy(lol), the fuel tank itself.
I'll restore the tank(which isn't bad at all; Just dirty), and install the new pump(when I get it.

Thanks again for checking out my progress.
Best wishes to everyone!
Have a great day!!!:D
 
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