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Discussion Starter #381
11-30-2015
a520/a555 Hybrid continued....

Last time, I got to the main shaft in the vice, ready for tear down.

Just a simple note for this,
Keep everything in order,
and don't lose the little centering pins from the shaft.

Everything comes off of the shaft quite easily.
(You'll use the bearing separator talked about above for the bearing)

Get yourself a good set of lock-ring pliers.
These are NOT snap-ring pliers, LOCK-RING pliers.




Harbor Freight bearing separator.






Note the nut I placed upside down into the tip of the shaft to center the puller better.






Another lock-ring.
I kept them stored in the order they came off the shaft.
This way they went right back where they came from.







This is where SNAP-RING pliers come in handy.


Once the split washer is separated,
don't lose the alignment pin that goes into the shaft.







Another Lock-ring


And be careful with the syncronizer tab retainer rings in the syncros.
They'll go flying if you're not careful
(ask me how I know this. lol)




Really, it's easier to remove the entire syncro assembly,
but you CAN do it this way.
They're going to come completely apart eventually anyway,
so either way they come off of the shaft will be fine.





Keep the washer with the gear.


And the last alignment pin on the shaft.
Keep it in a safe place for reassembly.





I laid everything on a piece of cardboard.
This worked out well for me.



The bare shafts of the a520 and the a555.
They are both early transaxles.
You can clearly see the more course gears of the a555 shaft here.



Next; REASSEMBLY!!!

Stay tuned folks!!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #384

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6-26-2014
I couldn't resist; had to mock it up just once.


Probably could've done without the 351's elbow,
but it'll surely make for some interesting intercooler plumbing.

Now that I have seen exactly where it'll be positioned,
I have a better idea of the plumbing route I may take. :brows:

Thankfully, the header all but SOLVED the P/S pump clearance issue I would have faced with the downpipe on a factory mani. :thumb:
(I may actually be able to use the factory HOLSET elbow)


This is a mock-up, non-CB, and a throw away 782 head.
Nice parts to have laying around for this very instance. :D

I took a measurement of the HE351's depth toward the firewall.
It's almost exactly 14" from the mounting surface of the head.

If anyone has an "L" body, and a few minutes,
it would be great to know the measurement from the Intake/Exhaust manifold mounting surface on the head, to the firewall.


Thank you, in advance for this info. :thumb:

BTW: Still working on the porting and polishing of the header.
it's a TON of work, but not beyond the average skill level.
Thus-far, it's coming out fan-tas-tic!

Later! :D
prepare yourself for as min boost of 19 psi lol!! speaking from my build of course lol
 

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Discussion Starter #386
prepare yourself for as min boost of 19 psi lol!! speaking from my build of course lol
Yeah, I kinda figured that.
I'm thinking I'll start around 30p.s.i. MAX, and massage it up from there. :brows:

With the socketed SMEC, I'm sure I'll end up having a case of CALs for different circumstances and conditions.

I'm going 2.2, and that might be the biggest difference from your build.
I'll also be running a Devil's Own kit.

Thanks for checking in man. :D
 

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Yeah, I kinda figured that.
I'm thinking I'll start around 30p.s.i. MAX, and massage it up from there. :brows:

With the socketed SMEC, I'm sure I'll end up having a case of CALs for different circumstances and conditions.

I'm going 2.2, and that might be the biggest difference from your build.
I'll also be running a Devil's Own kit.

Thanks for checking in man. :D


with a full three inch you might be able to tone down that 19 psi to about 15 psi
 

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Discussion Starter #390
with a full three inch you might be able to tone down that 19 psi to about 15 psi
Yessir.
I'll be running 3" intake throughout the system; from the air filter,
through the turbo, to the intercooler(3" in/out), and into the 70mm T/B.

The exhaust will be a 4" DP, and a cutout that when necessary will run it through a 3" system out the back. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #391
1-14-2016

I haven't updated recently because I got a new PC.
My old PC died(hard drive failure I believe),
and I lost some pics of the hybrid build, as well as others.

I'll update if and when I get them out of there(hopefully) :fingersx:
 

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Discussion Starter #392
Next; REASSEMBLY!!!

Stay tuned folks!!! :D
1-19-2016

As promised a few posts ago, REASSEMBLY!

I guess this is a great place to state one of the best tips I've ever received,
CLEANLINESS IS NEXT TO GODLINESS!!!
(Please be forgiving when you see a smudge or two here and there in my pics lol)

At this pint, I had the transaxles completely disassembled.
I cleaned all of the parts; even the ones I won't be using.
Because at some point someone may need one or two of them,
and they'll be easier to identify clean, in my pile of TD stuff lol.

I cleaned out the casing, and removed a lot of casting flash and the like.
(This isn't all of the pics showing the flash removal, but you get the idea)












By the time I was done cleaning off excess aluminum,
there was quite a pile of dust and chips.


Hung the case from the ceiling and applied two coats of primer, and two to three coats of silver.












Well, if you noticed the pics' quality or size changes suddenly,
it's because my Photobucket wouldn't upload some of the pics.
So, I had to go to Dropbox to post some of these.
This took me a bit longer than anticipated,
so I'm out for tonight.

It's probably better that I break it into several posts anyway.

Thanks again for checking in. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #393
2-1-2016

A small, pretty important update note.
My machinist called and said, "Your engine is ready. Come get it whenever you want"
N-N-NIIIIIIIIICE!!!

But, back to the Hybrid a520/a555 with OBX diff build...

Once the case is cleaned, the intermediate shaft bearing and oil slinger must be replaced.
This requires special tools, as per the FSM.
Many of these tools are readily available on eBay.




In my trans, there was some um, "stuff" in the case after the bearing was removed.
Some of this "stuff" was of a metallic composition. :eek:

As you can see below,
there's some syncro ring, and other debris present.


New bearing


Using my Harbor Freight press, a 1/2" drive extension and socket,
I installed the new bearing.
DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE OIL SLINGER IN!!!




That's all the time I have for tonight, but I hope to be updating more soon.
Thanks for checking in. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #395
Are those tools C-4995, L-4518, & ???

What is the 3rd tool there please??
Yes, I believe you are correct.
I can't be 100% sure on the numbers, but that sounds familiar.
I'd have to double check down at the shop.

The third tool is the puller for smaller races.
 

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Discussion Starter #396
2-16-2016

I still haven't got the hybrid trans assembly pics out of my old hard drive,
but here's a pic or two that will interest those following the build:







AAAAAAND................GO! :D
 

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Hey Donnie!
Don't forget that little oil restrictor that goes in the block BEFORE you put the head on it! Been there, done that.... :-(
 

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Hey Donnie!
Don't forget that little oil restrictor that goes in the block BEFORE you put the head on it! Been there, done that.... :-(
Has anyone come up with a good substitute? I know the hole is 9/64", but haven't found an easy way to make the slug body. I'm thinking bullet brass might work, if we can get the proper caliber, which isn't one that I shoot.
 

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Discussion Starter #399
Hey Donnie!
Don't forget that little oil restrictor that goes in the block BEFORE you put the head on it! Been there, done that.... :-(
Right on Steve.
Thanks for the reminder
In fact, I had intended to snap some good pics of it,
and post them in a write up for the forum members.
This error is often an issue, and usually gets blamed on the oil pump.

Has anyone come up with a good substitute? I know the hole is 9/64", but haven't found an easy way to make the slug body. I'm thinking bullet brass might work, if we can get the proper caliber, which isn't one that I shoot.
That might be a good idea,
but the factory piece seems to work well, no?

If there can be a substantial gain in pressure then absolutely, let's find a way. :D
 

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I would love to see details of this posted. Reminds me of the oil galley plug problem from the LA V8s. I've known two guys that seized up brand new motors because of that.
 
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