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Wow! That's a serious project you got going on there signsoflife22! I'm just beginning mine. I was able to get GLHS #0083. Turns out, you are about 2 hours away from me. I'm doing mine as close to original as I can, but I still may bounce some ideas & questions off you. You're welcome to do the same. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Wow! That's a serious project you got going on there signsoflife22! I'm just beginning mine. I was able to get GLHS #0083. Turns out, you are about 2 hours away from me. I'm doing mine as close to original as I can, but I still may bounce some ideas & questions off you. You're welcome to do the same. Good luck.
Anytime!
As you read here, I'll be kind of "removing" a lot of the GLHS original stuff.
So, if you're looking for anything(Like the engine(lol), let me know.

Have a great day!:D
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Got the 4" V-Band flange and clamp today($38/shipped on eBay):
It comes with the flange with rubber seal between the flange halves and, the clamp


Traced the flange around the T/B and, ground the excess material:
Marked off the areas to be removed with my trusty red sharpie!






Using the flange half with the seal and, the T/B "edge" as the inner flange half,
It creates a V-Band set-up that will hold the air intake plumbing tight and secure to the T/B:











The TPS must be installed AFTER the V-Band is secured.
(small price to pay for the great set-up)

Note; This is just the flange half.
When I actually install this, I'll use a preformed V-Band pipe as my air intake.






OK, that's the direction I've decided to go in.

Thanks for looking and, check back for updates often!
Have a great day!:D

7-25-2013;
The 4" VBand was TOO BIG!!!
So, I'll go down to a little 3.5" VBand set-up.
Once I get it here in the mail, I'll post up the differences.
If my measurements are correct, this thing is going to fit like a friggin glove!!!
So, stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Got the 3.5" V-Band clamp and flange(s).
And my prediction was correct!
It fits like a friggin glove!


However, this is the only pic I have^ as of yet.

See, once the 3.5" V-Band came, my gears started to turn again.:rolleyes:
Remember the 1/2" "lip" on the 75mm T/B?
You know, the one that everyone had trouble with?
Well, since the 3.5" V-Band arrived, I've decided to DELETE the lip completely!
NO LIP!
The outer edge of the T/B will now be the retaining V-Band flange.
I've got it set-up and, nearly completed but,
it's a PITA without a resurfacing machine.
I initially hack-sawed the lip off and, have since been grinding the T/B
on the side of my bench grinder's wheel to remove the left-over lip.
It's coming along quite well and, I can already see that this will be SCHWEET!

On another note:
I recently purchased parts of the cooling system I'll be running.
It's basically the GLHS water pump with an aftermarket(Mishimoto) Neon SRT-4 radiator and,
dual 12" cooling fans.




The issue I had there was how to set-up the radiator cap.
Because as anyone who's familiar with the Neon knows, there isn't one on their radiator.
Neons use a specially designed thermostat housing that incorporates the cap as well as the upper hose flange.
I had to figure a way to use this radiator because as anyone who's familiar with the "L" bodies knows,
that long, lower hose is a bit of a.........well, you know.
Check out the positioning of the in/out flanges on the radiator^...
Pretty AWESOME for the "L" body, no?
So, all I'll need are two pretty short hoses and some way to incorporate a radiator cap.

Not a problem.
I found this little gem at Summit Performance:

I may build some kind of bracket for it or, just use it inline in the upper hose.
The thought of some type of custom support bracket that attaches via
the stat housing hardware has been floating in my head.
Or maybe making the TU stat housing I already have and, the above part, ONE PIECE!
Either remove the end of the stat housing or remove one of the inlet flanges from the Summit piece and,
have them TIG welded together.

I guess we'll see when I actually get to that part of the build.

Thanks for checking out the GLHS's progress and, stay tuned!
Have a great night! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #46
OK, Back to the 75mm Throttle body.
IT'S DONE FINALLY!!!








The mounting flange required to use this T/B is a VERY simple one.
If you wanted to, you could cut it out of flat stock aluminum!

What I finally decided to do was, remove the lip entirely:ninja: and,
allow the T/B itself to be the inner V-Band flange.
I had kind of thought to do this originally but, was going to use the lip as a guide kind of.
After much thought, decided it wasn't necessary.
So, cut it off and cleaned up the remaining surface on the bench grinder.(side of the grinding wheel(lol)


Most aluminum VB-Band set-ups come with this rubber seal for between the flanges.
Works GREAT for this application as well.




Can't wait to get this car together and on the road!
I'm VERY SURE the throttle will be "touchy"(lol) but,
I have no problems with that!

Thanks again for looking and,
Have a great day! :D
 

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This is one of the best and in depth build threads I have seen, good job and looking forward to seeing the finished product
 

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Discussion Starter #48
This is one of the best and in depth build threads I have seen, good job and looking forward to seeing the finished product
Thank you.
I wanted to be as thorough as I could when covering the details.
The projected completion date is August of 2014.
If I were rich, it would be much sooner(as I'm sure is the case with most of the TD world(lol)
But, I guess it's kind of good; In that without the up front funds available, I HAVE TO take my time.
It'll make for a much better finished product.

Now, if I could FOCUS on individual systems, I'd be much better off.
I log on and, there's always that one part I know I'll need for sale.
Here at the house, I have so many different pieces and parts of different systems.
When I began, I intended to focus on the Brakes/Suspension and fuel systems.
Basically working my way from the rear of the vehicle, to the front.
And, that's still the idea.

I had my rear axle "boxed in" and, it twisted slightly.
So, I may now be in the market for another "L" body rear axle.
But, my welding guy says he can fix it.
We'll see I guess.

Thanks for looking and, thanks for the compliments.
Have a great day! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
So, I was looking at the TurbosUnleashed "lightened flywheel" and,
I got to thinking...... "I have a drill press RIGHT HERE!"
So, I started to drill:


A bit closer:


I'll keep everything updated on it.
What's the worst that can happen? :shrug:
(I'm WELL aware of the dangers that this WILL create but figured, WTF!)

Anyway, I don't intend to even use this flywheel but,
if I can lighten it significantly, who knows?

What I intend to do for the flywheel/clutch/plate set-up is in the following thread:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/465081-air-charge-temperature-sensor-street-racing.html

You gotta LOVE the Shadow.....he knows!

Be back in soon to give an update of where I'm at now with the GLHS.
Thanks for looking. :D
 

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So, I was looking at the TurbosUnleashed "lightened flywheel" and,
I got to thinking...... "I have a drill press RIGHT HERE!"
So, I started to drill:


A bit closer:


I'll keep everything updated on it.
What's the worst that can happen? :shrug:
(I'm WELL aware of the dangers that this WILL create but figured, WTF!)

Anyway, I don't intend to even use this flywheel but,
if I can lighten it significantly, who knows?
Maybe I'll sell it!
(Of course that'll be after a trip to the machine shop to have it balanced and double checked for anything "questionable").

What I intend to do for the flywheel/clutch/plate set-up is in the following thread:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/465081-air-charge-temperature-sensor-street-racing.html

You gotta LOVE the Shadow.....he knows!

Be back in soon to give an update of where I'm at now with the GLHS.
Thanks for looking. :D
hmm..i think unless you use a precision method of removing the material (i.e. locating the holes) its going to be out of balance..how significantly i dunno

also, there may be consequences to removing material in certain locations affecting the strength of stuff..and stuff..

whatever..at least the flywheel rotational plane isnt pointing at the passenger compartment...oh wait it is

shadow DOES know....dooo dooo doooooooooooo
 

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Discussion Starter #51
hmm..i think unless you use a precision method of removing the material (i.e. locating the holes) its going to be out of balance..how significantly i dunno

also, there may be consequences to removing material in certain locations affecting the strength of stuff..and stuff..

whatever..at least the flywheel rotational plane isnt pointing at the passenger compartment...oh wait it is

shadow DOES know....dooo dooo doooooooooooo
You're a RIOT Asa!
I looked at the TU flywheel and, they machine the center section out considerably to make more "room" to drill holes.
Any brake lathe would do that but, I don't have one of those.
So, I'm drilling the HECK out of the area I DO have.
Boredom I guess.
Here's the pic I used as a "guide" of sorts:


As I said earlier, "I'll update it as I go".
Have a great night my friend. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Came across this "Short Throw Shifter" thread:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f22/129908-short-throw-shifter.html

And, thought I'd give it a shot. :D

This is for an a555 shifter assembly.
Here's how this is going for me thus-far:
I disasssembled the shifter entirely and,
cut the shifter itself into 3 pieces(cleaning the edges for welding later):


Taking out just over 1":


Nice to have one of these SUPER sized cut off wheels around(LOL):
(it's actually part of my neighbor friend's shop)


Next, I clamped the housing in a vice, numbered all four legs and, cut it off:


Then cut out four pieces of steel that were close(within 1/8") to the size of the "legs":
(why this came out upside-down, I don't know):


Cleaned the base and top of the housing where it was to be welded:


I ran a length of 1/4" threaded rod down the length of the shifter prior to welding
(I used a MIG and, there's a possibility of slag blocking the lockout rod hole):


Oh yeah, almost forgot;
I cut the bottom linkage attaching ball off right at the start of the bracket
which is welded on from the factory;
Then welded in the >1" piece:


Cleaned the welds a bit:


Not so much on the housing:
(don't think it's necessary. There's no interference there)


I'm in the reassembly process now.
But, as is with ALL of my ventures, I'm looking for ways to lighten it up a bit:


I'll be back with completion pics soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Finished the shifter and the console.
With the shifter, I did the "Short Throw Shifter" mod as described in the thread.

With the center console, i used a neon shifter boot which is rubber but, LOOKS like leather.

Did this(and ALL other work) in my Front porch/Auto Shop:


Here's how it went:
First, I redid the shifter itself.
30min Epoxy'd the welded areas and, sanded smooth:


Cleaned the shaft at the top and bottom and,
Painted the center:


Cleared away some material which may have interfered with the shifter:
(pics are taken after finish grinding and paint)






Counter sunk the screw hole in the lock-out sleeve and,
ground the head of the screw until flush:


Then assembled and checked again for proper clearance:




The "shifter housing on a diet" mods came out like this:
(lost well over 1lb. doing this)


And finally, checked the console with Neon boot for clearance.
This is on the bench. I may have less room IN the car but,
there's room to "wiggle" it a bit:






If anyone's interested in the shifter knob insert,
the man who made it has a thread here:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f8/f35/404488-shift-pattern-inserts.html

They are AWESOME!!!
And, they fit tighter than the factory ones AND,
He'll put pretty much whatever you'd like on it!


I hope I covered this well enough.
I'm not sure where I'm going next(probably the lock-out sleeve grip);
As I said at the beginning of this log,
"I'm kinda all over the place".
But, I AM making progress!!!

Keep checking in and, have a great day! :D

Decided not to use the "GLHS #0896" shifter knob(although it kills me. lol)
Here's how I adapted a regular knob and, its components. Pretty easy actually.
Most knobs have this little trim piece on the bottom:


I just had to open it up a bit to fit over the newly improved shift lock-out sleeve:


Now, the shift lock-out sleeve slides inside the bottom of the knob when pulled up:

Thought I had better pics of this.
I'll get em'.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
CHANGES!!!
I'll be using Daytona Knuckles, the GLHS Koni struts(with adapters/spacers by Rich Bryant),
and the GLHS rear Konis with "Ground Control" Omni coilovers at all four corners, pictured below:
(This system can be found here: Ground Control - Coilover Conversion Kit, '79-'90 Dodge Omni - (incl. GLH, GLHS, Turbo) )
This is a system that basically "converts" the factory Konis to fully adjustable coilover shocks and struts.

Have a great day everyone!!!:D

Oh BTW: This coilover system is EXPENSIVE(in my thin dime opinion, but well worth it),
so if you're subscribed to this build log, you may see some "irratic" methods being employed.
What I mean is this: it may appear that I'm "jumping around" from system to system rather than focusing on one particular system at a time.
I don't necessarily "like" to operate in this fashion, but the money is always an issue.
I'm sure most other TDers understand my position.

Thanks for checking back, and ANY advise or opinions are welcomed.
UPDATE:(3/14/13) NOW, I've found out that Neon front suspension is basically a "Bolt in" fit for the "L" body.
So, I'm going to find out exactly what I can do to use Neon parts up front.
See, there are thousands of companies that make Neon performance parts(Suspension/brakes/etc), so I'll do my best to head in that direction for the front. I'll keep it all posted.

My very best wishes to everyone!!!:D
OK; Another suspension update! lol
I have finally chosen my components.
Hang on, this ride gets confusing! :confused:
Here's the deal:
I'll start at the top and, work my way down.
2nd Gen Neon Strut tower brace:


2nd Gen Neon Strut tops:



eBay Coilover conversion Kit for Honda/Acura:


2nd gen Neon Monroe Sensa Trac struts:


And, here's how I did it:
Removed the shield from the strut by cutting the 3 little tabs that secured it
(I intend to purchase a rubber boot for a shield):






Cut all the way around the lower spring seat with a cut-off wheel:


Grinded away the remaining lower strut mount
(NOTE: Be careful here to NOT grind away the weld that once attached the lower strut mount to the strut.
It's the new coilover sleeve's seat)
:


Then you'll have this:


Slip the coilover sleeve over and, WA-LA!
Coilover:

:rotate3:

I chose the Honda kit due to the diameter of the springs that come with it.
They're a 3 1/4" diameter; Yep 3.25".
The Dodge ones I found were all 4" and above(Mostly 5") and,
the spring rates I found were MUCH higher than I would ever want to run.

I have yet to calculate the rates for these but, with the amount of coils and,
a 1/2" diameter wire, I can roughly guess around 450lb. spring rate.
(I may be WAY off there; I'll let you know) :p

Thanks for checkin' in.
Have a great night!
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Oh yeah, almost forgot:
Got out to the engine bay today and, removed the rest of what was in there:

Here's a few newer pics:






And, the latest pics of the car itself(10-19-2013):








OK; off to bed I go!
Have a great night TDers!!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Redid the headliner with material I got from csx369.
Here's how this procedure went:
First, got my material:
(I was lucky enough to get the exact stuff required)


Tools needed:
A hard bristle scrub brush:


A wire brush:


A straight razor blade and, headliner adhesive
(I used the Permatex product)


Remove the entire headliner from the vehicle.
(Don't have pics or description of this operation but,
if you can't get the headliner out, you probably don't want to do this yourself)
Remove old fabric from the headliner board and, lay board on a flat surface
(Used my bed with an old sheet beneath)
The old glue must be thoroughly scrubbed off with either the hard bristle brush or,
if the glue tests you, use the wire brush.
(NOTE! Be VERY careful with the wire brush as you don't want to alter the shape of the liner board)




After the board is clean, Lay the headliner fabric, padding side up, down and, place the board on top of it.
Using a marker(Sharpie), trace the headliner and, all of the holes onto the fabric:
(This is simply for realignment purposes. Not an exact science)

(NOTE: Trace about 2" out from every edge as the fabric will be folded over the edge to complete)



Now I had the clean board and, the marked material.
Lay the board down, inside up.
Lay the material onto it padding(marked) side down.
Roll back the material half way and,
spray the board with adhesive; then spray the folded over half of the bottom of the material.
(YES, spray BOTH the board AND the material)
Let it set for 5min. and, fold the glued material to the glued board.
wipe the material onto the board evenly and,
flip the un-glued half over.
Spray the board and, the material, let the glue set for 5min. and,
flip the material over to cover the entire board.
(For some DUMB reason, I don't have pics of this part)
But, here's what it'll look like:

(Forgot for a minute that I didn't have to apply glue to the sunroof! lol)^

Press down on the fabric and, wipe the bubbles and any creases out.
Allow to dry for 30min(or so) and, flip over.
(Be sure to refold the sheet under the headliner job or, you'll get glue on the new fabric!)

Your alignment lines should be visible;
Cut the fabric to about 1" of the edges of the board:




Spray adhesive around the edges of the board and, the edge of the fabric that hangs out.
Allow to set-up for a minute and, fold the fabric over the edge of the board completely:
(Making "relief" cuts at the corners helps)

Cut out the remaining holes as necessary for proper install of lights, handles, seat belts, etc.
(Again, not an exact science. Most of the parts I cut will be under trim and never seen again)

WA-LA; New headliner:





OK; more updates to come.
Thanks for looking. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Oh, and I almost forgot...
I mocked up the seats too:
They're "Driver FX" seats(A company owned by Keystone Auto here in PA that is NLA after switching names a couple times.)

The factory rails bolted on with very little modification(One additional hole drilled toward the rear of the rail)
And, bolted into the factory location by drilling two holes for each; widening the mounting position.

I'll tell you what I paid for them at the bottom:

(The missing adjustment knob for recline^ is NLA. So, I'll have to modify the Shelby knobs I have for them.
Both outer knobs are there but, both inner knobs are missing. I'll make something work.)









$50 for the pair!

I had to travel about 50 miles to pick them up but, great bargain!

More to come soon. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #59
You're a RIOT Asa!
I looked at the TU flywheel and, they machine the center section out considerably to make more "room" to drill holes.
Any brake lathe would do that but, I don't have one of those.
So, I'm drilling the HECK out of the area I DO have.
Boredom I guess.
Here's the pic I used as a "guide" of sorts:


As I said earlier, "I'll update it as I go".
Have a great night my friend. :D
I've also procured the parts for the ACT SRT-4 flywheel/Clutch/PP mod.
As outlined here, by Shadow:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/465081-air-charge-temperature-sensor-street-racing.html


I won't be using the disc pictured(it's cracked) but, the rest of the parts are 1500 miles old!
Got them for an exceptional deal!

I can now throw away the flywheel pictured a few posts ago that I basically destroyed in the drill press.
(Touche' Asa! lol)

As I do the ACT Srt-4 mod, I'll keep it posted in detail.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/465081-air-charge-temperature-sensor-street-racing.html
Shadow does an excellent job of this in the thread linked above. Check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
wow this looks great!
Thanks Asa!
Working on the A/C, heater housing(Which will soon be a heater only housing.lol)
There are some calculations to be made.
For example, there are 3 or 4 moving doors in the housing that I'll have to control with 2 cables somehow.
The "recirc" door will most likely no longer be an option; so there's one fixed.
For the directional control, that's where my figuring must come into play.
One cable needs to control 2 doors.
So, I'll need to fab-up some type of cable connector that attached to the middle of a cable with no end to use.

I'll post it all up after it's figured out.

Thanks for the compliment bro. :D
 
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