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Oh, and I almost forgot...
I mocked up the seats too:
They're "Driver FX" seats(A company owned by Keystone Auto here in PA that is NLA after switching names a couple times.)

The factory rails bolted on with very little modification(One additional hole drilled toward the rear of the rail)
And, bolted into the factory location by drilling two holes for each; widening the mounting position.

I'll tell you what I paid for them at the bottom:

(The missing adjustment knob for recline^ is NLA. So, I'll have to modify the Shelby knobs I have for them.
Both outer knobs are there but, both inner knobs are missing. I'll make something work.)









$50 for the pair!

I had to travel about 50 miles to pick them up but, great bargain!

More to come soon. :D
Kinda looks like you are going for the 'yellow jacket' effect here Donnie. It's gonna have a powerful sting to it when it's all done!
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Kinda looks like you are going for the 'yellow jacket' effect here Donnie. It's gonna have a powerful sting to it when it's all done!
With my first GLHS, I employed the "Yellow Jacket" idea in the engine bay.
Here's a pic of that:


I like the offset of the bright yellow against the black.
In the pic it's hard to see but, the block was yellow too.
I really liked it.
I plan to use the same ideas with this one. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #63
A bit closer:


What I intend to do for the flywheel/clutch/plate set-up is in the following thread:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/465081-air-charge-temperature-sensor-street-racing.html

You gotta LOVE the Shadow.....he knows!
Well, a few posts back, I spoke of the ACT flywheel/Clutch/PP mod by Shadow.
I got the parts for it and, they're on the way here!

(6-puck disc won't be used. I'll have a similar disc to the one Shadow has made) ^
Since I seem to be using more and more SRT-4 parts for this build,
I joined the Neon forum, neons.org.
I've met some great people over there and, it feels like home there as well.

I was able to get these parts for an EXCEPTIONAL deal!
There's 1500 miles on them and, the guy either blew the engine or wrecked the car(can't remember).
I've also made friends with a member there who's also a member here, sy2206. Great guy and,
seems to always be coming across SRT-4s totaled by insurance companies.

Anyway, lots more work to do.
The updated completion date is now October 2014.
I can already feel pressure from that date and,
IT'S ONLY NOVEMBER!!!

Stay tuned. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Lightweight being one of the most VITAL ideas for this project is what led me to delete the A/C.
(Obvious conclusion to come to)
However, I was then faced with a few other problems that this created.
1. There were A/C evaporator core connections sticking out of the firewall.
2. There were A/C controls present on the control panel.
3. There was an ALT/A/C bracket present on the engine.

Cures thus-far have been:
1. Removed the evaporator core and modified the A/C-Heater housing:
(cut a piece of black plastic from something I had laying around and,
blocked off the A/C line exit. No pics of that, I forgot; SORRY)

2nd pic down, you'll see where this piece is. It appears to not be sealed but,
it's sealed with clear epoxy)

Cut out a piece of plastic to block off the corner of the housing where the A/C lines used to come in
(Pretty much any plastic will work for this task. I used a lid from some seafood packaging box):




Installed it and screwed it to the housing I applied epoxy sealer to with small, self tapping screws:






Got me some Polyester fiber fill and,
filled in the space created by the new "wall":

(Maybe not necessary but, why not try to keep it insulated best I can?)




2. Acquired NON-A/C controls from a member here at TD!

(Thanks again, 2manyturbos)


As you can clearly see, they are VERY different than the A/C controls.

I would need to find a way to control the vacuum controlled parts of the A/C equipped housing with cables.
This I tried................................. and, failed. :indiffere

There are several vacuum canisters for the A/C-Heater housing;
For both air direction modes and recirculation modes.
So, there are 4 doors which all have their own actuator and, vacuum line that I tried to find a way to control with 2 cables.
NOT HAPPENING.

3. Removed the ALT/A/C bracket and replaced with an A/C delete bracket.
easy-peazy-americany(lol):thumb:
But my A/C delete bracket was again evaluated and determined to be too heavy.
So, I modified that as well(3/8" countersunk holes):






But back to this A/C-Heater housing:
I'm going to replace it due to not being able to control it properly with the NON-A/C controls.
I deleted the recirc door and was going to control 2 doors with one cable but,
this would mean that I'd never be able to have just vents on alone.
It would have to be vents & floor or vents & defrost.
It just wouldn't be right.

So, I'm in the market again for a NON-A/C housing.
I looked for this originally but, the response was that they are SO different that it wasn't worth the trouble.
There will need to be body work done to the car to make the NON-A/C box work but,
it WILL WORK!
So, while I have the car torn limb from limb, I figure now is the best time to get in there and,
cut holes where I'll need to cut them and, patch holes that will no longer be used.
When I get my hands on the NON-A/C box, I'll post every detail of the process of installing it.
You can be sure of that!

And, Yes, Yes, Yes....I understand that deleting the heat and A/C all together is an option but,
even though lightweight is important, there has to be SOME form of comfort.

Thanks again for looking, and have a great day! :D
 

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having had the heater only box - with the sepperated top corner vents and no center vents I say keep the a/c box - just take the a/c sutff out

there was always a cold draft in my car before the a/c conversion and the ducted dash vents are better when you actually get heat outta them

justify it with draft in car = areo drag and be done lol
 

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Discussion Starter #67
having had the heater only box - with the sepperated top corner vents and no center vents I say keep the a/c box - just take the a/c sutff out

there was always a cold draft in my car before the a/c conversion and the ducted dash vents are better when you actually get heat outta them

justify it with draft in car = areo drag and be done lol
I've heard of the drawbacks to the Heater only box but,
my thinking is that once I have it here,
I'll fab up some way to improve on its efficiency.
I'll somehow use parts of the A/C-Heater box and parts of the Heater only box
to come up with a "Hybrid" climate control system.

I'll keep it all posted.
Thanks for the input. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #70
I just had to put this pic in the log!
It's a rendering by DetroitTurbo that is pretty much the idea for the front end of the GLHS.



As I go on through the build, documenting each step,
let's see how close I come to this image once complete!

Thanks again Detroit!
 

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Man that looks pretty awesome,
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Man that looks pretty awesome,
Thanks 92TurboTona; Well, the thanks should go to DetroitTurbo.
He's like some kind of WIZARD with the PhotoShop!

"Forum Junkie" that I am, I picked up a few parts for the project.
Initially, I hadn't planned on going Alky but,
with the price I scored this kit for, I HAD TO!
(Like a message from Ma Mopar!)

(Adds a bit of weight to the rear of the car^. Weight is my ENEMY! But, I feel it'll pull it's weight and then some.
If not, into the For Sale section it'll go! lol)

Here's a couple gauges I bought as well:
I planned on using all white faced gauges and, to my surprise, there was someone selling all the ones I needed)


And a wideband set-up:


Haven't updated anything in a little bit.
The weather is getting cold here in PA but,
I'll be working through the winter on the GLHS.
The projected date of October 2014 is coming quickly!

Keep checking in.
My updates happen at all kinds of different times.
And, thanks for looking! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
Back in post #54, I began explaining the coilover conversion I was doing.
Well, it's changed a bit.
Still using the coilover conversion kit but,
using 2005 SRT-4 struts rather than the 2nd Gen struts I originally converted.

Here's the progress thus far:
Got a set of factory SRT-4 struts(blown).
Bought them on craigslist for $30 SHIPPED!
(No springs but, bearings, mounts and, dust shields included)

I started with measurements here because I'm posting in a Neon forum where there's a Bilstein mod I'll be doing to these struts.
Link: www.neons.org • View topic - DIY Bilstein upgrade - Rebuild your old KYB struts

Here are the measurements:
50.72mm O.D.:


46.42mm I.D.:


Overall length 350mm(13.75")
(from the top of the housing to the bottom where the hole for the strut insert will be drilled):


I removed the lower spring mount as I'll be using a coilover kit with these:

(Note; If you do this same operation, be sure to cut ABOVE the spring perch weld;
Thus leaving the weld intact to the strut casing; It is used to support the coilover conversion sleeve)






A surprising and interesting find on these struts was twofold.
First, the top bracket thingy is removable and thus, reusable once the replacement insert is installed:
(It takes a bit of coaxing,(lol) with the hammer and chisel but, it DOES come off there)




Second, the top of the strut housing is simply bent in, in four places to contain the strut cartridge:

So, if you're pretty good with the hot wrench, you could bend these out and,
not have to cut any of the casing.
I will be cutting but, having this material will surely allow me to choose one of several different strut inserts.

I won't cut yet. First, I'll figure out which inserts I'll be using;
get the measurements from them and,
then I'll modify the casing accordingly.

Just for grins, I'll post a pic of the pipe cutter I'll be using to cut the strut case:

24" long and weighs about 20lbs!!!
Definitely older than me, my Dad or, his Dad!

Cleaned the threads in the wire wheel of the bench grinder;
Added wheel bearing grease to them;
Sprayed the hinged parts and rollers with PB Blaster;
Sharpened up the cutting blade with the die grinder and, it's ready to go!

When I find the right inserts, I'll be sure to return and post the Part#s,
Supplier and, price I pay for them. Wish me luck! :woot woot:

Update(kinda) lol

Cut the tops off of the struts:








And, removed the factory, non-replacable inserts:


I've found the strut insert I'll be using.
It's a Bilstein 34-050224:

Haven't found them for a price I would be comfortable paying yet but,
they are readily available.(Prices range from around $140.00ea. to $190.00ea)

The insert slips into the factory SRT-4 cartridge and,
the stud at bottom of the insert goes through a hole drilled in the bottom center of the casing,
Then a nut and washer are installed and torqued.
Also, the strut comes with a cap that will press onto the casing to further secure it in place.

Here's a pic of the insert with the boot removed:

Need I say more? lol

Coming along nicely.
I may even replace the Koni inserts with a set of Bilsteins as well.
Understandably, the Konis have adjustable dampers.
I'll just have to weigh the differences later.

I must thank gyrol at neons.org for the information,
part#s and, for the detailed outline he posted at the forum.

Great stuff. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #76
And, I finished up the "A" pillar dual gauge pod fab as well.
It's basically 2 generic "A" pillar gauge pods mounted to the "A" pillar trim and,
molded into the trim with plastic weld and epoxy.
Then painted with Textured spray cans.

First, I attached the pods to the pillar trim with screws.
Then cut or grinded the heads off of them(Note this actually melted the plastic of the trim around the bolt)
Not a bad thing. Now the blots are perfectly formed to the plastic(or the plastic is formed to them)lol
I also cut off the end of the screws on the inside of the trim.
Now they're just reinforcement "beams" if you will.

Here's some of the early pics from when I began.
I lost a whole bunch of pics I had but, you'll see how I marked under the pods to cut:




And, here's a few early pics after the first shot of plastic weld went on.
I screwed through it after it dried to prevent flexing.







Drilled a hole in the pod for the factory trim screw into the "A" pillar ^

This was a LONG, DRAWN-OUT process that took me FOREVER.
The main reason is that the Plastic weld or epoxy must dry completely before it can be sanded.
So, here's some pics of the process:


















I would apply the epoxy, allow it to dry then primer the part.
When the primer dried, I would sand where necessary and,
apply more epoxy:






This process went on endlessly.
I wanted it to look like it came this way!




Finally, when it was done to my satisfaction, I began painting it dark gray with
textured paint from Rust-oleum:


And, here's what I ended up with:








Hope that covers it well enough.
Getting a pic of the entire "A" pillar trim is tough with my cell phone camera and,
it's all I've got.

I'll be painting all of the interior parts like this but,
this is the only one I needed to modify(THANK GOD!)
Surprisingly enough, this paint I'm using just happens to MATCH(nearly perfectly)
the color of the dash pad.
So, I think it'll be pretty SCHWEET looking when done.

Stay tuned! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #78
wow this is awesome..im going to use this as my encyclopedia of how to do things if i ever decide to make my car cool looking!!! way to go! :hello2::hello2::thumb:
Thanks Asa!
I guess it's the TD in me that causes me to think, "Why not?"
and, "I can MAKE IT for less".lol :woot woot:
 

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Hey dude thats really nice! The only reason I didnt use pillar pods is the daytona pillar pod that is pre-made is hideous. it doesnt really fit that great and I just couldnt have that in my perfect interior lol

I guess I could use this method to modify my a-pillar with the pillar pod I got from Cindy so it will actually look legit.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Hey dude thats really nice! The only reason I didnt use pillar pods is the daytona pillar pod that is pre-made is hideous. it doesnt really fit that great and I just couldnt have that in my perfect interior lol

I guess I could use this method to modify my a-pillar with the pillar pod I got from Cindy so it will actually look legit.
Absolutely but, it takes some real patience.
In addition to the Plastic weld, I used a couple different epoxys.
Being my first shot at something like this,
I was searching for the best method.
I found that the 20-30min. epoxy is best.
Gives time to fiddle around with it.

As I said in the post, it's a long and drawn out process but,
surely there are ways to speed it up a bit.
I was applying the epoxy in pretty thin layers to be precise.
But, if you mix the epoxy and, let it just barely begin to set-up,
you could lay down 3/4" thick layers!

I'm pleased with the final result. :thumb:
 
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