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Discussion Starter #141
I see a lot of forethought going on, keep it up!
Well, if there's ONE good thing about being an all too commonly broke TDer,
it's that we have the extra time to think things through properly. :thumb:
Thanks Randy.

"And, rods will be Eagle H beams(SRT-4 rods, #CRS5945D3)
These rods will be "off" length-wise upon receipt for the 2.2,
but the machine shop will correct this.
The pin hole will require re-sizing for the larger pins.
So my machinist will bore the hole off center by the .0004"(yes, that's ten-thousandths) difference to correct, and meet spec. "


Of course you are then going to have those rods balanced?

I was surprised how much difference there was in a 'matched set' of T2 rods. The factory weight differential per rod is not very good. Chris Chadwich of NHRA dragster fame told me that 440 Mopar engines are really bad and he didn't expect my matched set to be near as bad as it was....and unfortunately I can't remember how many grams off it was...but we are talking more than a gram here. He had them balanced down to 1/1000 of a gram and one of them took a lot of shaving, it was a LOT heavier than the other three.

The pics attached are of the rods in the GLHS that I just sold being balanced. You can see the current weight more clearly displayed in the second picture.
Ab-SOL-utely having them balanced.
I figure it this way; The engine I'm building was pushed close to its limits in the 1980s at 175HP!!!
If I'm going up to(and beyond) 3 times that, ALL PRECAUTIONS POSSIBLE are mandatory.

Good times Steve; Good times. :brows:
 

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I would say the fans in the ECU are a good idea..better than nothing.

Chrysler put large heat sinks on what I am guessing are the injector transistors and that sort of design is not done carelessly. Even though I've been running with no airflow through the ECU for years I wouldnt be surprised if that has caused intermittent issues or other oddities..

It would be interesting to measure the heat sink temperature on a hot day in an hour of stop and go traffic.

BTW whats this header you mentioned in the other thread???
 

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Discussion Starter #143
I would say the fans in the ECU are a good idea..better than nothing.

Chrysler put large heat sinks on what I am guessing are the injector transistors and that sort of design is not done carelessly. Even though I've been running with no airflow through the ECU for years I wouldnt be surprised if that has caused intermittent issues or other oddities..

It would be interesting to measure the heat sink temperature on a hot day in an hour of stop and go traffic.
I read somewhere that someone long ago had an issue where their SMEC basically melted down.
(Maybe there was an engine bay fire; lol)
Needless to say, it sparked enough concern in me to add a bit of air flow.
And at less than 500 mA draw, it won't be noticed.

BTW whats this header you mentioned in the other thread???
Ok, you dragged it out of me...
Here's the header I bought from onerippinturbo2(an excellent guy, BTW)



Now, with the HE351CW, there will be some slight flange mods necessary.
There's a thread around here someplace I thought I subscribed to,
but I can find it.
So, I marked the flange for the T3 mod.
BUT; I would really like to wait until I have the Custom Tubular Intake Manifold before I mock things up.

Here's my markings:


There's a bunch of steps I've taken but have yet to document here.
Trying a bit to keep some of this log in relative order.lol :thumb:
 

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I read somewhere that someone long ago had an issue where their SMEC basically melted down.
(Maybe there was an engine bay fire; lol)
Needless to say, it sparked enough concern in me to add a bit of air flow.
And at less than 500 mA draw, it won't be noticed.


Ok, you dragged it out of me...
Here's the header I bought from onerippinturbo2(an excellent guy, BTW)



Now, with the HE351CW, there will be some slight flange mods necessary.
There's a thread around here someplace I thought I subscribed to,
but I can find it.
So, I marked the flange for the T3 mod.
BUT; I would really like to wait until I have the Custom Tubular Intake Manifold before I mock things up.

Here's my markings:


There's a bunch of steps I've taken but have yet to document here.
Trying a bit to keep some of this log in relative order.lol :thumb:
wow this is going to be one heck of an engine :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #146
As I read a few pages here and there in this log,
I see myself saying over and over,
"There's other stuff that I'll document later".....
Well, I haven't been keeping up here as well as I'd like, sorry.
Here's a few pics to kind of "hint" about some of the yet to be included steps I've taken:





















Somewhat minor steps remain for the turbo.
The most difficult step will be polishing the compressor housing.

I painted the Turbine housing and the CHRA using 2000° spray paint.
I wasn't a fan until I saw a YouTube video where a guy held a torch to this paint after drying,
and it held up perfectly.


I'm sure I'll get around to clearing up the questions of the processes in the pics soon.
Thanks for checking out the log.

Lastly, here's a pic that's a hint to where I'll be heading soon:



:brows: :brows: :brows: :brows: :brows:
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Nice!!!!!!! keep them coming.
I surely will, and as usual, it'll be all over the place.
It's impossible for me to keep things in a particular order with this log.
Things just happen too fast, I guess. :D

Looks great!!#
Thanks Asa.
I just hope my header works with the intake.
I'd hate to have to modify them both to get them in,
but sometimes there's a price to be paid...lol :shrug:

I'm sure everything will work out just as it should. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #150
As many already know, I'm going to use the SMEC electronics for controls in the GLHS.
This required modifying a 1989 "G"(Daytona) engine bay wiring harness,
and adapting it to the 40-pin GLHS Bulkhead connector.

Here's how I set-up the pin-out:
‘87 2.2 T2 LM/PM 40pin Bulkhead to ‘89 2.2 T2 50pin SMEC harness
Notes: (*) = wire not in 50-pin connector
______(X2) = two wires in same pin
______Note: pin #32 in 40-pin connector; Simply delete one of the 2 DG/BK wires.

1987 40-pin connector_________________________________________ ______1989 50-pin connector
(engine compartment side of connector)________________________________________ ______(pin# reference for which wire in harness)
Pin #-Circuit-Color --- Description--------------------------- Connect to ------------ Pin# --- Circuit ------------------ Description-----------------
#1 - Not Used
#2 - Not Used
#3 - Not Used
#4 - J10-12PK---Ignition Switch ---------------------------------------- To ----------------------- (*) -12PK/BK--------------In Starter Harness Plug
#5 - L3-16RD(X2)-Left High Beam ------------------------------------- To -----------------------#6 - L3-14RD/OR(X2)-----Headlamp High Beam
______________________Right High Beam
#6 - L1-12BK---Splice Charging Circuit Alternator ------------------ To ------------------------#1 - L1-12RD-------------Battery Feed
#7 - B1 - 12WT---Back Up Lamp Switch -------------------------------To -----------------------#27 - B1 -18WT----------Back Up Lamp Switch
#8 - B2 - 18VT/BK---Back Up Lamp Switch-----------------------------To-----------------------#28 - B2- 18VT/BK------ Back Up Lamp Switch
__________________Neutral Start and Back Up lamp Switch
#9 - U3 - 20OR/LG---Fuel Pacer Lamp-----------------------------------To--------------- None: Delete wire from 40-pin
#10 - K3 - 20BK/OR---Power Loss Light Ground-----------------------To ----------------------#38 - K3 - 20BK/PK------ Check Engine Lamp

:thumb:#11 - D4 - WT/TN---Brake Switch Signal----------To---------6-pin harness 18WT/PK(Remove wire from 6=pin, and solder to WT/TN wire; rest of 6-pin connector is deleted)

#12 - C2 - 16DB/YL---A/C Low Pressure Switch----------------------To-----------------------#37 - C20-18DB/OR--A/C Damped pressure Switch
#13 - D6 - 18LG---Left turn Signal--------------------------------------To-----------------------#21 - D6-18LG-------------Left Turn Signal Lamp
#14 - S2 - 18YL---Starter Relay-Ignition-------------------------------To-----------------------(*)- S2-14YL/BK---------In Starter Harness Plug
#15 - V3 - 18BR---Winshield Wiper Motor-----------------------------To-------------------------#45 - V3-18BR------------Windshield Wiper Motor
#16 - V4 - 18RD---Windshield Wiper Motor----------------------------To------------------------#46 - V4-18RD-------------Windshield Wiper Motor
#17 - G2 - 20VT--Water temperature Gauge or Lamp---------------To------------------------#17 - G20-VT/YL-Water temperature Sending Unit
#18 - G6 - 20GY---Oil Pressure Switch---------------------------------To-----------------------#18 - G6-20GY-------------Oil pressure Switch
#19 - V5 - 18DG---Windshield Wiper Motor-----------------------------To----------------------#35 - V5-18DG-----------Windshield Wiper Motor
#20 - V1 - 18DB----Windshield Wiper Motor----------------------------To----------------------#36 - V6-18DB------------Windshield Wiper Motor
#21 - H2 - 18DG/RD---Horn----------------------------------------------To----------------------#32 - H2-14DG/RD-------Horn
#22 - Not Used
#23 - Not Used
#24 - L7 - 18BK/YL(X2)-Right Park & Side marker Lamps---------To----------------------#26 - L7-18BK/YL(X2)---Splice Side Marker and Park and
___________________Left Park and Side Marker Lamps_________________________________________Turn Signal lamps
#25 - A3 - 14PK-----Battery-Hazard Flasher---------------------------To--------------------#23 - A3-16PK/WT---Battery-Hazard Flasher
#26 - Not Used
#27 - G60 - 20GY/YL---Oil Pressure Sending Unit----------------------To--------------------#19 - G60-20GY/YL---Oil Pressure Sending Unit
#28 - Not Used
#29 - P5 - 20BK---Brake Warning lamp Switch-------------------------To--------------------#34 - P5-20GY/BK--Brake Warning Lamp Switch
#30 - Not Used
#31 - T21 - 20GY/LB-----Tachometer------------------------------------To---------------------#33 - T21-20GY/LB--------Tachometer
#32(See notes) - Z1 - 14DG/BK(X2)--Fuel pump Feed-------------To--------------------#24 - Z1-16DG/BK----------Fuel Pump Feed
#33 - V10 - 20BR---Windshield Washer Motor--------------------------To-------------------#29 - V10-18BR----Windshield Washer Motor
#34 - D5 - 18TN-----Right Turn Signal----------------------------------To----------------------#22 - D5-18TN-------Right Turn Signal Lamp
#35 - C13 - 12BK/RD--Electrically Heated rear Window--------------To----------------------#48 - C13-12BK/RD-Electrically Heated Rear Window
#36 - Not Used
#37 - Not Used
#38 - J2 - 14DB(X2)----Splice Ignition Run Circuit----------------------To-------------------#47 - J2-14DB(X2)------Splice Ignition Run Circuit
_____________________Splice ignition Run Circuit___________________________________________ ________Ignition Switch
#39 - L4 - 16VT(X2)----Right Headlamp Low Beam---------------------To-------------------#35 - L4-14VT(X2)------Headlamp - Low Beam
_____________________Left Headlamp Low Beam
#40 - J1 - 12RD----Ignition Switch---------------------------------------To-------------------(*) - J1-12RD------------In Starter Harness Plug

Many wires in the "G" engine(SMEC) harness are not used(ie: cruise circuit, Ambient temp sensors, etc)

Here's some pics of the procedure:
After tracing the additional 6-pin harness in the bulkhead grommet, I found it's only installed on cars with cruise.
Every wire in the 6-pin harness(save for the WT/PK) goes to the cruise module.
In the '89 FSM, it shows 2 different brake switches(cruise and no-cruise), and I have no cruise.
Traced every wire through the 60-pin harness,
and I was able to delete the un-necessary ones(Pretty much all of them).
The WT/PK(circuit D40) wire is the wire that goes directly to the WT/TN(circuit D4) wire in the '87 "L" body 40-pin bulkhead(pin #11).

Deleted pins 7, 8, 9, and 60 along with the wires from the 60-pin SMEC connector.




Found the cruise control plug, and deleted it along with its wiring




A while back, when I decided to go SMEC, another member had told me,
"There's going to be a lot of wires not used, so be prepared"...lol
Didn't think it would be this many.

(That little box is 3 inches deep, and filled to the top ^)

So, I guess we'll see when I eventually attempt to start the car.

:thumb:This sheet should be printable for anyone building a SMEC Harness for their pre-1988 "L" body.:thumb:
Best wishes with it. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #151
6-23-2014
OK, back to the turbo work for a minute.
(Actually, a couple days of porting/finishing work on the Turbine housing)

Here's a couple pics that I posted above, but didn't really describe well:
After sandblasting the Turbine housing,
I prepped it with wax & grease remover(paint prep),
and then used the 2000° protection primer & paint and baked it in my gas grill(as per the instructions).
Here's how it turned out:





Having barely touched the WG port, or the exhaust chambers yet,
there was some tinkering with different tools to see what would work best for it.
The final decision was to buy a 6", canister type porting bit for the die grinder and go to town.
(I opted out of the reamer bit pictured a few posts ago for the WG port)

I'll try to cover this process the best I can here.
The flange is indeed a T3 flange.
However, as you can see, it's not "up to par" for performance.
Tracing the inside of the gasket, you see the amount that must go:


So, I got my grinder, porting bit, and a bowl to catch the metal dust,
and I began to port it out:


I found that working in one area, using constant movement, and allowing THE TOOL to do the work, is best.
So, I began on the side with the 9 cast into it(9cm housing):








After I got it close, I experimented with a sanding drum in my Dremel tool:
(Came out really nice, and I made the decision to use this method for the finishing)


Then I moved on to the other side of the flange,
and began cutting gradually out to the outer traced line.
(The angle you cut at, at this point is irrelevant. the idea is to get out to the edge and match the port.
then afterwards, the finishing, smoothing can be done)
:




After smoothing in the edge and sanding with the Dremel,
it looks something like this:


With the gasket:


WG port lighted:


I'll have to update the WG port work, but that came out well too.
What I did there was used the same 6" bit, and kept checking the port with this 18mm socket that measures 25.88mm(about 1.02")


I'll get the details of that work up here soon.
Thanks again for checking in.

Best wishes everyone! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #153
That's some purdy work Donnie
Thanks Steve.
It's not as difficult as one might expect.
The key I've found with porting work is to allow the tool to do the work.
Years ago, when I first began porting parts, I would force the bit into the metal.lol
The bits would end up smoother than the ported parts! :bang head

Now there's obviously some pressure applied, but not nearly as much as might be assumed.
These bits(the good ones anyway) do a tremendous job.
Take your time, and the port will come out ab-SOL-utely beautiful.
Patience, and thoroughness are KEY. :thumb:

Also, a "headlight"(basically a light that is attached to a headband) is a fantastic tool to use during this process. :nodding:
They're definitely affordable at around $5!!!
Worth every penny.

Five LED Magnetic Head Lamp
 

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Discussion Starter #154 (Edited)
The WG port was a lot simpler to open up than I thought it would be.
(That is, once I got the proper bit to do the job) :thumb:

I basically used an 18mm, 1/2" drive, deep socket as my "guide" lol
Once the port was big enough for the 25.88mm(total outside diameter) socket to slip into, I was good to go. :brows:

And, Here's a bit of CHRA work from days ago as well as today:
First, the sandblasting procedure.
I ran a long bolt with a washer through the center, with a washer and nut on the other side;
effectively preventing blast media from entering the center.
And clamped on a huge C-clamp to block the oiling holes.
Then, it went into the cabinet:

It probably goes without saying, but in my small blast cabinet, this huge clamp was a PITA!
So, eventually, I removed it and the bolt, nut and washers,
and just blasted the entire thing.

Then, I masked off the oiling holes and also the turbine & compressor sides of the CHRA before paint.


Then came this 2000° primer & paint, that I highly recommend.
(Held a torch to it afterwards, and it held up just fine)


Baked on the 2000° primer & paint in the gas grill.
(There's a 3 step process outlined on the can for best results)
(It may appear to be sitting right on the greasy grill, but it's set-up on a 2" length of exhaust pipe)


After the coating process was finished, and 24hrs had elapsed,
I began to remove any flaws in the CHRA.
Mostly the casting imperfections on the Turbine side:
Before:


During:


Completed:


The compressor housing will probably be enough to start a completely separate thread for!!! lol
But I'll try to keep it detailed, yet no so damn long. lol :thumb:

Thanks again for checkin' in! :D

Next up: Header flanges to be modified.
The ChryCo flange must become a T3 flange;
And the header flange holes all require quite a bit of massaging. lol

Stay tuned! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #157
6-26-2014
I couldn't resist; had to mock it up just once.


Probably could've done without the 351's elbow,
but it'll surely make for some interesting intercooler plumbing.

Now that I have seen exactly where it'll be positioned,
I have a better idea of the plumbing route I may take. :brows:

Thankfully, the header all but SOLVED the P/S pump clearance issue I would have faced with the downpipe on a factory mani. :thumb:
(I may actually be able to use the factory HOLSET elbow)


This is a mock-up, non-CB, and a throw away 782 head.
Nice parts to have laying around for this very instance. :D

I took a measurement of the HE351's depth toward the firewall.
It's almost exactly 14" from the mounting surface of the head.

If anyone has an "L" body, and a few minutes,
it would be great to know the measurement from the Intake/Exhaust manifold mounting surface on the head, to the firewall.


Thank you, in advance for this info. :thumb:

BTW: Still working on the porting and polishing of the header.
it's a TON of work, but not beyond the average skill level.
Thus-far, it's coming out fan-tas-tic!

Later! :D
 

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Lookin Good! Nice to see you taking your time and doing the same things I did to my HE351 before putting it on for good.

I had to massage the firewall back 1/4-1/2" with a rubber mallet to clear the HE351 with stock ported exhaust mani. Hopefully your header does Not make it any tighter. :fingersx:
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Lookin Good! Nice to see you taking your time and doing the same things I did to my HE351 before putting it on for good.

I had to massage the firewall back 1/4-1/2" with a rubber mallet to clear the HE351 with stock ported exhaust mani. Hopefully your header does Not make it any tighter. :fingersx:
Thanks Rob, I appreciate it. :thumb:

Yeah, it may just fit, but it'll be SO close that eventually it'll begin to rub and tap the firewall.
But, I have the entire interior out of it now,
so a massage wouldn't really be much of a big deal.
I'll be installing a NON-A/C heater box.
I just hope that this "massaging" I'll do for clearance doesn't cause any issues there.
 

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I took a quick measurement on my car and its about 9 inches from the manifold mounting surface to the firewall. It would take a mighty big hammer to make that turbo fit in my engine compartment lol.
 
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