Turbo Dodge Forums banner

1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

70K views 487 replies 34 participants last post by  glrcng 
#1 · (Edited)
1987 GLHS#0896 Project log

OK; I've been on TD for a few years or so and, I've talked and discussed, and rambled on about the GLHS I own and how I intend to make it an incredible vehicle.

I'm starting this log today because I'm beginning the
"resto-boostaholic-adgenda".
I've been planning, educating myself more thoroughly, making contacts here and more planning for three years now.

The intentions are pretty detailed at this point and here's the "vision":
A GLHS rivaled by no other!
11 second 1/4 mile with the license plate on the back.
Total vehicle weight of 2200lbs(or less), with me in the driver's seat(170lbs).

I've been in contact with several TDers here and this vision is VERY-VERY achievable.

I bought the vehicle from Forward Motion Inc - Specializing in FWD Dodge Performance Parts (Mike was selling it for a guy from Texas), and it was a beauty! 67930 original miles! Here's what it looked like the day I brought it home:




The vehicle had already had a few mods done by Mike at Forward Motion Inc - Specializing in FWD Dodge Performance Parts. An "Enforcer I" turbo, "Enforcer I" cylinder head with +1mm valves, +20% injectors, MP stage 2 module and a 3" complete exhaust with "blow through" cat.
After a few modifications to the factory air intake system(Factory air box removal etc) and an upgraded coil and wires, she was pretty "pissed"(exactly the emotion I like my cars to have(lol). But low and behold, I blew the a525.
I was already aware of the "weakest link" in the GLHS's character make-up, having had a GLHS years ago that did the same thing. So, I knew it was just a matter of time until the 525 pooped the bed on me(lol).

At this point, the vehicle is on blocks in my driveway and has been there for a while now. Here's a pic:

(even in this condition, you can see how "clean" this vehicle is)

I'm starting the project with the brakes and suspension in mind first so I can get the vehicle into a "roller" in case I need to ship it anywhere for something(or just to move it around with ease).

I have FINALLY got my hands on the parts required to do the SLH3 four wheel disc brake modification(well, they're in the mail anyway).
I had been in touch with THREE different people here at TD that had said they had the parts but, when it came time for me to purchase them, these people all kind of "disappeared"(lol).
Oh well, Mike at Forward Motion Inc - Specializing in FWD Dodge Performance Parts to the rescue! Mike had what I needed and shipped the parts today!

As I go through the steps of the build, everything will be documented here.
As I said before, the SLH3 upgrade and suspension system mods will be first.
These two systems will be addressed kind of simultaneously.

I've been in touch with Koni and, their prices are a bit "steep" but, suspension upgrades have been quite difficult to find. The Konis seem to be the very best system for the "L" body cars.
Here's a pic I found from a guy who had his done:

It cost him right around $600.00 for this but, the result speaks for itself! Wouldn't you agree?
I've been in touch with Koni and, YES, they are still rebuilding these today. So, if you want yours done, simply go to Koni: Koni: us-na-redirect

For today, I'll end it there. By the weekend(Hopefully), I'll be removing the rear suspension, cleaning and modifying it and, reinstalling with the SLH3 brakes.

I'll post any info as I go along.
Thanks for looking and have a wonderful day!!!:hello2:
 
See less See more
4
#322 ·
After fixing the missing roof drain, I began installing the headliner, visors, and interior trim.
(in this pic below, you can see the rear def. wire, It broke away from the glass. Anyone familiar with reattaching it?)


















Next up: Building the heater box, and wiring the dash... :D
 
#323 ·
Still April...
I made the decision to get rid of the A/C(in its entirety) long ago.
The heater box I bought was a bit worse for wear, but I think it'll work.

Finding the missing blower motor retainer plate was impossible.
BUT, I actually found one on eBay!
But when it arrived, it wasn't it.
However, being pretty fed up at this point,
I figured I could make it work!

So, I marked off where I needed to cut it to fit, and began.




Since this blower was a different shape,
I had to make a filler piece for the heater box.


Also, since this box was out in the weather for years and years,
the control door was a bit rusty.
I repaired it with JB weld.
I don't think it would have failed, but thought I'd rather be safe than sorry.



I don't have a pic of the final product(the door),
but I cleaned it and sprayed it with rust reformer.

Then I had this box, with no heater core.
So, to RockAuto I went!
It was the last one from FourSeasons that they had,
and it was only $13!!!








Moving right along!
Thanks for checking in, and I'll do my best to find time to update here! :thumb:

The dash and interior wiring is what I'm working on now.
I'll have to make a custom duct for the heater only box to use the vents from the A/C box.
That should be a real treat....(Picking up the sarcasm? because I'm laying it on pretty thick! lol) :D

Cleared off one of the benches, and began laying the wiring into the dash...


 
#328 ·
4-29-2015

Indeed! There's some FULLsignsoflife work to be done with the ducting. lol

I got the box mounted, and found out some interesting things along the way.
First, the one mounting stud has a raised mount cast into the plastic box.
This raised area of the box must be removed for the box to mount properly in an A/C car.
There must be a slight difference somewhere, or another spacer or something.
Once I sawed it off the box, all went well.



I had to open up the heater core line pass through in the fire wall, slightly.
The lines are about an inch further apart than the A/C box core.


The heater core mounts to the box with one screw to stabilize it.
I added a second screw, and some foam adhesive backed seal to it.
The 2nd screw isn't pictured. I must have taken these prior to drilling it in.




The seal for between the heater box and firewall had to be a custom piece.
I made it from an A/C box seal that I cut at an angle,
then added additional insulation to seal it completely.
(I intend to change the blue color, but for this example it works great!)
You can also see the dinged up lines from me massaging them into position. lol




Installation went well after I bent the lines enough(had to re-solder them to the core :bang head )


And surprisingly enough, the template idea I used a while back to cut the hole in the cowl worked out pretty well.
(It IS off center, but the seal is wide enough to seal it completely around. :thumb: )


Wah-La...


And the interior view


This is where the FULLsol work is going to get tricky!
The vent at the front of the box may end up being removed.
But I may use it as a sleeve to slip the new duct over.
At present, I don't have the non-A/C box defroster vent.
They were different from A/C to no A/C.

And that brings me to this:
IF ANYONE HAS A NON-A/C BOX DEFROSTER DUCT, AND IT'S ADAPTER,
PM ME PLEASE. IT WILL MAKE THIS WHOLE DEAL QUITE SIMPLE.


Thanks for checking in. :D
 

Attachments

This post has been deleted
#331 ·
6-3-2015

OK folks, the small heater only box is a NO-GO for the GLHS.
It's not that I couldn't MAKE IT work, but I would have to delete the center console.


So a while back, I bought a 1990 heater only box that is basically an A/C box without an evaporator core,
and a foam cover over the IN/OUT at the firewall.
That's the one I'll use.

This raises a problem that I myself created; the hole in the cowl for the small box,
and a couple other holes in the firewall for mounting studs.
NO WORRIES, as I happen to be a pretty good MIG welder, and I have a Millermatic 135 at my disposal.
It's somewhat irritating because as those who've followed know,
I spent a great deal of time fussing with the small heater box. :blah:

aaaaannnyy waayy..... Just 2 days after scrapping the small box idea,
the interior is nearly together!

First, I cleaned out the heater housing;


Then I swiped the cowl seal from the small box, and used it for the big box:






The box cleaned up well, and all of the diaphragms are operational.

I didn't have the firewall foam seal for the heater core lines, so I made one. ^^^




The original vacuum lines for the heater controls used a link in the line harness that corrodes and falls apart.
It should be noted that in the later boxes(I assume 1990+) they got rid of the short link,
and ran the lines directly to the controls. :thumb:

This project is SO FAR BEHIND that I sometimes get a little giddy when things start to flow properly. lol
So I didn't snap pics of the box itself installed.
It went right in though!

I'll end this post here, and in the next I'll outline what I did for the broken heater controls.
(I'm thinking many have tried different ways to repair them, but I may have solved the riddle... :D)
 
#332 ·
6-3-2015(work from 6-1-2015)

The heater controls I received along with the 1990 heater only box were broken.
They operated fine, but the housing for them was snapped off on one side.
I'm thinking many have had this issue from over-tightening the controls into the dash.


I had the controls from the GLHS which were SHOT anyway.
(The electroplated chrome is peeling off)

Interesting discovery that the controls(I assume ALL of the controls) use the same generic housing,
but different face plates based on optional equipment.
The face plate is plastic welded in to retain it to the frame.

So, I completely disassembled both of the control assemblies:




And here's the good frame:


And the heater only face plate installed:




I just remelted the retainer areas, and it's good to go now! :thumb:
 
#334 ·
6-3-2015(work from 5-28-2015)

I was a bit torn about what to do for a rear strut tower brace,
but then the SRT-4 front brace nearly fell on my head!

A little measuring, cutting, and welding, and I have the GREATEST rear strut brace EVER!!!
The SRT-4 front brace was a bit too wide for the rear of the L-body.
So, I had to cut it a bit shorter.
(This also gave me the chance to reset the angle to more suitably fit the rear towers)




















I've turned it around since these pics were taken.
The thought there was that the struts are mounted with a slight forward facing angle.
So, the angle in the strut brace should follow it for best support. :thumb:

Thanks for checking in.
There's more I'm sure I'm forgetting at the moment,
but I'll get back as soon as possible.
I'm really trying to spend all of my free time building this car. :D
 
#337 ·
7-6-2015(Again, the work here is from a little while ago,
but this is the first time I've had to post)


More interior work completed.

Surely there will be several L-body owners interested in this post;
as I found a way, although somewhat difficult, to mount 4 gauges in the center console.
But not to simply mount them, but also have them face somewhat upward
to avoid having to kink my neck to accurately read the gauges!
(L-body guys with gauges mounted flush to the console know what I mean there. lol)

First, I bought a generic 4 gauge pod from fleaBay:
52mm 2inch Glowshift Universal Quad Dash Dashboard Mount Console Four Gauge Pod | eBay

In it's fleaBay delivered state, it's way too wide for use.


So I needed to not only narrow it considerably, but also remove the intended mounting angle.




Then the narrowing began:
First, I scored the surface to almost exactly the amount I needed to remove
to leave enough for the 2 1/16" gauges(and their trim rings) to mount.


And then cut the pod into four pieces:




I don't have a pic of all four pieces, but you get the idea.

Then I roughly taped things together and test fitted:


Once I had things narrowed and fitted to where they'd work,
I began to make the four pieces 1 again:
Using J-B weld, Plastic weld, I masking taped them together and went to town with the weld!






This is when not being in a hurry really helped out.
I had to wait 24hrs between welds for the chemical to cure.
This was about a four day operation.
So if you intend to do it, TAKE YOUR TIME! And it'll come out great!

While test fitting, it was obvious that the gauges would rub the console's inner sides.
So, while I awaited the Plastic weld to cure, I began modifying the console itself:

Since the gauges will be "leaning back", I had to cut angled sections out of the console to accommodate them.


Having modified the console, and removing much of the mounting for the innards,
the storage tray was kinda shaky. So, I ran a nut and bot through the remaining cross bar:




After the gauge pod cured, it was time to test fit,
and work on forming a more flush mount to the center console.
(Where the pod meets the sides of the console)


So, I taped up the console to avoid the Plastic weld adhering to it, and mounted the pod.

The gauge pod will still be removable from the console along with the center section.

I basically just taped off the area, and injected Plastic weld into the cavities from behind:






Once it cures, it maintains the shape of the masking tape.
(Which is easily removed from the cured Plastic weld)










A bit of shaping with the dremel, and scoring with sandpaper,
and things were starting to come around:




Where the pod meets the center console insert(the black piece), I simply ran Plastic weld into the crevice.
it wasn't much of a crevice really; both edges were flat, and met perfectly.
So, I plastic welded it from the front and rear to be sure it was strong.

Then once it was ready, I began to paint using textured paint.
(The same stuff I used for the other interior plastics)




I painted the center console, and the gauge pod.
I left the black insert of the console black.




Then, I put it in the car!!!








Thanks for checking in; I hope you like the interior progress. :thumb:

This weekend I'm heading down the Carlisle.
A fellow TDer is bringing me a replacement rear trailing arm.
Mine was bent(if you remember from a while back; the welder overheated it in one section).

So, I'm thinking that when I get the arm up here,
I'll be inspired to assemble the rear disc brakes and whatnot. :brows:

Stay tuned! :D
 

Attachments

#338 ·
7-6-2015

And, I almost forgot!

I got the plate for covering the spare tire well hole cut,
and the shape of the recess for the battery/ALKY kit box cut into it.

A friend of mine nearby was getting rid of some old shelves he had,
and he said "take whatever you want".
So, I grabbed two of the shelves, and began cutting.

(You can see below my errant marking for the battery box. lol)


I was going to just clean off the edge, then I remembered I had a grinder!




It cleaned up really nice.


Marked it for the recess that I'll build for it.


Then I cut the small piece to complete the circle.


I used the spare tire well cover as a pattern,
and cut the metal on top of a tire.
Worked out well.
Most of the cutting was done with a jigsaw with a Bosch metal cutting blade.


I took both pieces to my neighbor's place, where the MIG is,
and I welded them together(No pics of that yet)
It fits perfectly. All that's left is the box for the battery/ALKY box.
I'm thinking it will be about 4" deep.

Here's a shot of the plate laying in the car with the Battery/ALKY box just laying in the hole.


I don't think I'll weld the plate in.
I'm thinking of using a rubber gasket, and riveting it to the edge of the hole.
Who knows? I may want to take it out one day. :shrug:

Thanks again fellow members! :D
 
#341 ·
7-17-2015
I've gotten permission to borrow my neighbor's Miller millermatic welder.
So, I'm going to get a bunch of things ready to be welded.

The spare tire well hole cover/Battery-ALKY box box was obviously first on the list.

My next welding job was to build a rear trans mount,
to replace the little shock absorber back there now.
I bought a 10" length of 1/2-13 threaded rod, 2 nuts, 2 washers, and 1 lock washer at (B)lowes.
I'll cover this operation well when I get to it.

The MAIN reason I'm posting tonight is the discovery I made when fixing the shock towers to be welded...

I know that looks bad, but in a way(I have to tell myself this) it's a blessing.

The body is tearing around the spot welds Chrysler used here.
Here's a couple pics from inside the L/F fender(wheel well)


So, in looking at it, I figured I'd get my trusty hammers and punches,
and knock the metal back against the frame rail, then weld it.
However, when I tapped on the metal around the spot welds,
it just tore even further.



Um.....yeaahh...I'm not a body guy. lol







I haven't messed with it any further.
I'm hoping I can coax it back into shape; or at least close enough.
If I can't get it to an acceptable spot,
I'll weld in a patch piece of metal to further hold the new weld.

And, on the other side, there's separation as well,
but I think it's pretty normal.
But, I'll close this in as well.


If there's anyone out there, who's following this build, and has had this issue,
please let me know how you repaired it.

Thanks. :D
 
#342 ·
7-17-2015
The following is what I was intending to do when I noticed the sheet metal tear.

Shock towers on L-bodys are pretty chintzy, and for some unknown reason,
ChryCo thought it a good idea to leave a little extra metal around the edge of the tower at top.
(ANY L-body owner knows exactly what I'm referring to. lol) :laugh:

So, I'm getting rid of the "edge" and building a strut tower brace that will fit into an entire engine bay reinforcement.
To do this, the strut tower's top plate must be modified quite a bit.
I had started cutting it away previously, but I finished cutting it now.









Made a template for cutting the right size reinforcements.
(NO, it won't be making a plate to cover this area. But rather, support-bar like reinforcements)




And the other side...




These templates might seem unnecessary, but I wanted to get the shape correct for the reinforcements to fit exactly.


I should start welding early next week.
I'll try to keep the thread updated.

Thanks for checking in! :thumb:
 

Attachments

#343 ·
Hey Donnie....here is what I know about L-body strut towers. If you slam a curb or hit a big pothole the seam where the tower is spot welded to the fender housing will split wide open. It's apparently not that hard to hit something that will cause this to happen. While you got that welder, and before you weld that brace in place, I'd weld that seam all the way around and up the fender well wall! I circled the area where I have seen more than one come apart. You could even drill holes between the spot welds and insert a good quality body rivet or nut/bolt combo for a lot more strength.

 

Attachments

#344 ·
Hey Donnie....here is what I know about L-body strut towers. If you slam a curb or hit a big pothole the seam where the tower is spot welded to the fender housing will split wide open. It's apparently not that hard to hit something that will cause this to happen. While you got that welder, and before you weld that brace in place, I'd weld that seam all the way around and up the fender well wall! I circled the area where I have seen more than one come apart. You could even drill holes between the spot welds and insert a good quality body rivet or nut/bolt combo for a lot more strength.
Absolutely Steve.
I intend to strengthen those areas in addition to the bracing.

As I looked over the setup more closely than ever before,
I realized how chintzy it really is.
So, there'll be lots of new beads run all throughout the vehicle.

My concern is weight, but there's one thing above that, strength! :D
 
#345 ·
8-8-2015
I'm SO busy lately; the time I get to actually work on the GLHS is limited.

BUUUUUUUTT......
I did some welding recently. It's not "pretty", but I haven't begun to grind!!!
Here's a pic or two of what I've been up to:







I did a lot of welding under the hood in the strut tower areas.
Also welded the inner fenders to the frame.
I have pics of that, but haven't transferred them to the PC yet.

In other news, I picked up the Common Block on Thursday,
and also got the replacement trialing arm.
So, there's 2 pieces that will move progress along a bit.

The block will be heading out to the machine shop, and the trailing arm will be modified in house.
I have a few ideas about the rear suspension I might try...

Stay tuned :D
 

Attachments

#347 ·
Yeah, I kinda agree. The MIG welds pretty much won't be at all visible after I'm finished with them. :thumb:

My intent is to grind until the strut tower is basically one piece of metal.
I'm going to remove as much of those welds that I can through grinding.
They'll remain exponentially stronger than the factory spot welds,
and not add as much weight as traditional welds would.

And on a note that interests me a bit less;
After grinding the welds down, it'll be prettier too! :brows:
 
#348 ·
Here are some of the welds I mentioned above:

















I have many many more pics of this process.
I was welding a little at a time to prevent any distortion. About an inch bead each weld.

As I said, it's pretty ugly, but it'll be sweet after I grind them down.

Thanks again for checking in. :D
 
#351 ·
9-15-2015

Hello again folks. Long time no update! lol
I've got a lot done since my last post here.

I'll continue about the strut towers and modifying them to be stronger,
and be a cleaner fitting seams.
So, above you see my pop/stitch welds.
I welded in this way to avoid distorting the metal.
Then, for what seems like days and days, I grinded them.










You get the idea.
I haven't even really started the passenger side yet(other than welding).

Using a 4" electric grinder for the most part, and man is it LOUD!

Surely some of you see the end of a hood strut in a couple pics, and are thinking,
"Did GLHSs come with hood struts?!!! No, sorry.
But in the next post you'll see how they're there. :D
 
#352 ·
9-15-2015
Hood struts in an L-body? Yep

I nabbed a set of hood struts from a KIA Sephia(I think) at the JY.
They have these little brackets that are fantastic for the L-body.

Here's how that went:

Had to drill a hole for the bolt.
Then also drill a hole for the centering pin on the strut bracket(nice little feature).
then I went into the 2.2/2.5 misc. hareware drawer and got a couple bolts and nuts.



For the top, I drilled through the hood bracket, and right into the hood itself.
I ran a TAP through both and got enough threads to cause a clamping action.
So, the upper bolt of the strut is solid.



Here's the final outcome:




These struts worked just perfectly.
They're not too stiff, and not too loose.

I've been working on the oil pan baffling, and crank scrapers.
I'll update that work as soon as I can.

Thanks for checking in, and I apologize for the delays between posts.
Have a great day everyone! :D
 
#355 ·
9-16-2015

Today at the shop, I was able to get a lot of the R/F inner fender weld cleaning done.
BUT; what I'll report here is about the machine shop! :headbang:

Spoke to the machinist who did my very first 2.2 forged bottom end.
He's an incredibly detail oriented machinist, and I feel blessed not only by the prices he quoted,
but also for the fact that he's still around! lol
(Dating myself slightly there. lol)

But he said Boring the cylinders to the JE forged pistons, Line boring for the Forged crank,
and decking .030"(or over until true; hopefully not too much over that):
right around $300 :woot woot:

Man, when he did my first 2.2 I think the price was right around that same number!!!
20 years ago!!!

I'm not sure what others have paid for such services,
but I'll surely ask him what he thinks of me recommending him to all of the forum.
I understand that he's a business, and would usually LOVE the extra work,
but he's got a small shop. So, I gotta check with him first. :thumb:
 
#358 ·
Glad this might be a help to you.
You're never on your own Bob! Anytime I can help, let me know.

The hinges on the L-body don't have the springs the G-body has,
but you should be able to remove them carefully.
I'm not familiar enough with the springs, but if they're dangerous to remove,
maybe open the hood and tack a piece of metal across the spring to prevent it from un-springing when you take it off the hinge.

And the struts I got are from a KIA Optima.
I'm sure there's many of them in the JY. lol

Did you see THIS NON- A/C car being parted out?

Good Luck & Best Wishes on your car!
Yeah, I saw the thread.
Appears to be a whole lot of good parts there. Thanks man. :thumb:
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top