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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
87 GLHS looking for info on getting the engine rebuilt. To the best of my knowledge, everything is stock. Plan was to restore the car, meaning everything is put back the way it came out of the factory. I have already replaced the fuel system with stock parts (tank to injectors) and electrical (control computer, coil, sensors,etc), Now I'm thinking of getting more hp (maybe 100) out of it plus looking for advice on using an engine machine shop. But I want the factory look with the exception of exhaust size, I can waiver on that. I've worked on cars for nearly 40 years but the only engine I've built was a 1600cc VW and they're about as basic as it gets. So, things I've learned from the forum and questions
1. Most machine shops don't know our engines and usually want to replace everything.
I've heard keep the original pistons, anything else. Let the shop clean and inspect the block only?
2. Don't let them grind the crank, or block unless absolutely necessary. That's kind of a no brainer to me. I want as little metal shaved as possible. So far cylinder walls look ok but their is always some clean up. Is a mild cylinder honing job going to cut too much? How is the clearance?
3. Head. I've heard use a 16 valve head and I'm not totally against that but do I need it? Is a stock cam enough? Is a roller really better? I've seen both ways debated.
4. For the extra hp, I know stock fuel pump and injectors won't cut it. What size am I looking for?
5. Electronics for extra hp? Oil pump suggestions? Timing suggestions?
Thanks. I'm chronicling the build in the project forum. It's slow going but I try to keep it updated.
 

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1992 dodge shadow es turbo
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One big thing to consider is how much boost are you willing to run, this will definitely change what parts your upgrading, you could make 275 hp with 30psi or 18psi depending on setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not real familiar with turbos so it's something I'll have to look into.
Stopped by the engine shop today. It's a local shop that's been there for a long time. Probably longer than I've been around. They advertise antique builds and I did see a few flathead Ford heads when I was there. To rebuild the head, they quoted $375. block is $1800 and that includes the crank work
 

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I'm not real familiar with turbos so it's something I'll have to look into.
Stopped by the engine shop today. It's a local shop that's been there for a long time. Probably longer than I've been around. They advertise antique builds and I did see a few flathead Ford heads when I was there. To rebuild the head, they quoted $375. block is $1800 and that includes the crank work
That's now bad. I did two V8 iron heads only changing exhaust valves and skimmed 20 thou off em was like $1200...
 

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87 GLHS looking for info on getting the engine rebuilt. To the best of my knowledge, everything is stock. Plan was to restore the car, meaning everything is put back the way it came out of the factory. I have already replaced the fuel system with stock parts (tank to injectors) and electrical (control computer, coil, sensors,etc), Now I'm thinking of getting more hp (maybe 100) out of it plus looking for advice on using an engine machine shop. But I want the factory look with the exception of exhaust size, I can waiver on that. I've worked on cars for nearly 40 years but the only engine I've built was a 1600cc VW and they're about as basic as it gets. So, things I've learned from the forum and questions
1. Most machine shops don't know our engines and usually want to replace everything.
I've heard keep the original pistons, anything else. Let the shop clean and inspect the block only?
2. Don't let them grind the crank, or block unless absolutely necessary. That's kind of a no brainer to me. I want as little metal shaved as possible. So far cylinder walls look ok but their is always some clean up. Is a mild cylinder honing job going to cut too much? How is the clearance?
3. Head. I've heard use a 16 valve head and I'm not totally against that but do I need it? Is a stock cam enough? Is a roller really better? I've seen both ways debated.
4. For the extra hp, I know stock fuel pump and injectors won't cut it. What size am I looking for?
5. Electronics for extra hp? Oil pump suggestions? Timing suggestions?
Thanks. I'm chronicling the build in the project forum. It's slow going but I try to keep it updated.
Since u already have a decent setup with the Garret Turbo and 2 piece intake u can make 275hp with the following parts no teardown needed.

Bolt ons

255 Fuel pump
+40 injectors
3 bar map gives you a 29psi limit
Adjustable FPR
180 or 185 thermostat
Rn9yc plugs gapped .25-.27
Stage 5 Fwd LM or other cal for setup

This will get 275Hp but if u want it to hold up get

Hard parts (Give pistons to machine shop so they can set the bore clearance)

T2 rods or Eagle+forged or OE Mahle pistons
Solid motor mounts
Gap rings .20 or more for more boost.
Swap trans to 555,568 or built A413. The 525 u have will explode..

If u want more efficiency=More Hp per pound of boost get

2.5 or 3" free flowing exhaust
Front mount intercooler
Adjustable cam gear
Roller cam
Ported head+big valves
Wideband O2
Ported manifolds or get a big plenum for the 2 piece.

And biggest of all a TUNE...

There's a bunch of vendors and guides on here too.
 
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