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1988 Shelby CSX-T
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Discussion Starter #1
The son and I recently picked up an 88 CSX-T that had been sitting in a garage for roughly 2 years. We knew it didn't start but I wasn't too worried about it. As it turns out, it was stored with a full tank of gas. We dropped the tank and pulled the pump and sending unit. The pump was about as corroded as you could expect. We cleaned the tank and sending unit and replaced the pump. Pump didn't prime. We went ahead and replaced the fuel pump relay and ASD relay. The pump primed but no start.When we turned the key, you could hear fuel going through the rail but it sounded like the regulator was stuck open. Primed the pump, clamped off the return, turned the key, she fired up for about a second or 2 and died. Replaced the regulator and checked fuel pressure, 48psi at the rail. Still no start. Did a compression check for giggles and got 130/135/140/130. At this point, I'm thinking the injectors aren't getting power. Put a light bulb in each plug, turned the key, got power. Each injector plug is getting 1.4 ohms. The only way we can get it to run at this point is to use starting fluid. I have a buddy that works at Deatschwerks, so the injectors are getting cleaned and rebuilt. I was told to unplug the MAP sensor and try to start it but I'd already removed the injectors.What am I missing, here?
 

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Storing a car with full tank with a metal fuel tank is the proper way to do so. That way you don't get condensation in the tank. Fuel will go bad though. Have you checked for codes? I would suspect maybe the HEP (plate under distributor) went bad. Check for cracked or broken vacuum lines, esp. one leading to MAP sensor. Fuel pressure should be 52-55 static PSI not 48 PSI static. Check for rodent damage. Those critters like to chew or wires to mow down their teeth.
You can temporarily run a jumper from the positive battery cable to the positive side of coil. This will bypass the ASD and provide power to the fuel pump, injectors, and coil. You can see if it starts then.
If car is running on starting fluid, cam timing is more than likely okay. You really need to check codes though. That would be the first thing I would do.
 

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1988 Shelby CSX-T
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Discussion Starter #3
Only codes present yesterday were 11 and 12 and I suspect 12 was from the negative battery cable being loose. We replaced the HEP at the time we did the pump. I'll check the MAP line when I get home from work. Thank you.
 

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Code 11 is engine not cranked since battery disconnect or loss of crank signal
Have you rechecked for the Code 11 after you cranked the engine?
If it is still there then the controller is not seeing a crank/rpm signal.
The ASD relay is actuated for 1 second with initial key on to pressurize the fuel rail, after that the controller will not actuate the ASD relay until it sees a crank/rpm signal and fuel sync signal(turbo only) from the HEP.
If you have the initial ASD 1 second actuation you know the ASD circuit is OK, if not then you have to diagnose the ASD relay circuit.
If you have the 1 second actuation but no power to the + coil, fuel pump and injectors cranking then you need to check the HEP circuit.
NOTE...A New HEP does not = a Good/Working HEP.
NOTE...Do Not bend the wiring down the side of the distributor as Chrysler had it or you will cause internal damage to the wiring.

Here are No Start diagnostics, if they lead to not an ignition issue then follow the flow chart below.

These are Chryslers diagnostics for driveabilty with no fault codes or codes 51/52.
Start at the top and work your way down.
(5)Test NF1 Code 51-52  1.jpg

1)Minimum of 25 KV at all spark plugs
IGNITION - Adjustable Spark Tester.jpg

2)Static Rail Pressure 53-57 PSI and holds.

3)Use a voltmeter to backprobe the CTS and TPS signal and return lines.(OR/DB nd BK/LB)
TPS should read below .90 volts at closed throttle, if the controller see's over 2.50 volts with the engine cranking or just key on it assumes the engine is flooded and will not pulse the injectors.
CTS, use chart...
Backprobing the CTS.JPG CTS VOLTAGE CHART 2.jpg

4)Checking Map Sensor Calibration

5)Disregard 6,7,8

9)Controller Grounds
Be sure the main controller ground is connected.
Verify all controller grounds have less than 5 ohms continuity to ground.
ELECTRICAL- Main Controller Ground 84-89.jpg 88-89 SMEC 14 Pin.jpg 88-89 SMEC 60 Pin 1 - 30.jpg 88-89 SMEC 60 Pin 31 - 60.jpg

10)EGR is not stuck open

11)Vacuum is getting to the Map during cranking and the controller sees it.

12)Not an issue unless you can get the car to start/run by slightly holding the throttle open.

13)Cam/Ignition Timing
 

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1988 Shelby CSX-T
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Discussion Starter #5
Got the injectors back and that was the issue. It idles and runs, albeit rough. He said they were completely clogged. So, he basically rebuilt them. We ran into another issue with the catalytic converter. It’s clogged and I’m sure it’s what’s giving us a rough idle and low power. The stench of rotten eggs was pretty bad. It’s nice to see the car run for the first time in 2+ years. Thank you for the replies. I’m definitely saving the diagnostic stuff for future reference.
 

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Glad to hear the car is running.
Be sure you do not have a rich running condition causing the converter smell, that rotten egg smell usually occurs when the cat is working overtime to clean up the exhaust emissions.
I would hate to see you kill another cat due to an underlying issue that was not corrected.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As it turns out, the downpipe is super loose on the turbo. Massive exhaust leak and I’d bet a super rich condition.
 

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Super Rich will be caused by High Fuel Pressure or Low Engine Vacuum/Map Sensor Calibration.
CTS calibration/stuck open/wrong temp thermostat will cause a rich issue but not as severe as Fuel Pressure or Map issues.
The O2 sensor is only a fuel trimmer and although it may cause the vehicle to run slightly richer if latched below .450 volts, it will in fact lower fuel economy and raise CO2 emissions.
Be sure the oil is not fuel contaminated, do not want the cylinder walls washed down.
 
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