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1984 Dodge Rampage Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
So for pure experimental reasons I put together a one way valve and a restrictor between baro and MAP. I only get 3-4 lbs of boost now, but it does not surge and will rev and shift at WOT.

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Are your vacuum pneumatics the factory lines or someone's attempt at duplicating them? Any chance there is a check valve or splice with restrictor inadvertently spliced in the line? I've actually seen the 4 way splitter become clogged with debris. The factory never had vacuum lines run on floor of plenum exactly for this reason; to keep debris out
These appear to be original but they are placed behind valve cover. There appear to be no splices or restrictors placed in any of vacuum tubing.

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There are a couple of two ways in the valley. I can definitely take them apart and check for any debris.
 

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So for pure experimental reasons I put together a one way valve and a restrictor between baro and MAP. I only get 3-4 lbs of boost now, but it does not surge and will rev and shift at WOT.

View attachment 281359



These appear to be original but they are placed behind valve cover. There appear to be no splices or restrictors placed in any of vacuum tubing.

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There are a couple of two ways in the valley. I can definitely take them apart and check for any debris.
Looks like you're doing an old school Dodge garage map sensor bleed. You can try blocking off everything else vacuum related and then just run the map sensor maybe you have a leak somewhere....
 

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I'd start by removing the entire vacuum harness and going through it too make sure it's free of clogs and kinks. Strange it runs better when you're getting less pressure to the map.
 

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But at WOT the computer actually ignores the map sensor and goes off a predetermined table...

No, the ECU uses the map all the time to determine fuel off tables in the code. What it does ignore at wot is the o2 sensor.


On the masi 16V intakes, they actually had to run vacuum barbs off the bottom of the plenum for packaging reasons. Their solution was to run tubes inside the fittings to extend out of the floor.
Keep at it, you're making progress!
Todd is still teaching me stuff after 22 years with these cars
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Silly question, I am going to buy some vacuum hose in bulk, what sizes should I buy?
 

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The HVAC is 1/8", 95 % of underhood is 5/32" and 7/32", the PCV system and some other lines off the air box may be/are a bit larger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I know it has been awhile, been pretty busy with larger irons. I did have time to mess around with the vacuum lines, I did replace some with some scrap to experiment, and how it revs out has changed, but not improved. So it is something with the vacuum system, I just need to replace everything with NEW, and go from there.
 

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85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, multiple red 1991 Spirit R/T's, lots of bits and pieces
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FWIW, I ended up changing the MAP/BAR on the LeBaron not once but FOUR times before it ran right. I had a new one and three known-good spares. One of the known-good spares worked. Along the way, I had a similar behavior from one of the sensors, I believe it was the new one. It seemed like SMEC was way more picky about the MAP/BAR input for some reason. I also zip-tied the hoses onto the sensor nipples. Without it, they would still leak during boost no matter what. (Granted, in my case the bigger problem was that the ground wire was broken off of the fuel pump inside the tank, so it was getting ground from the metal hose. That car had many, many....many problems.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
FWIW, I ended up changing the MAP/BAR on the LeBaron not once but FOUR times before it ran right. I had a new one and three known-good spares. One of the known-good spares worked. Along the way, I had a similar behavior from one of the sensors, I believe it was the new one. It seemed like SMEC was way more picky about the MAP/BAR input for some reason. I also zip-tied the hoses onto the sensor nipples. Without it, they would still leak during boost no matter what. (Granted, in my case the bigger problem was that the ground wire was broken off of the fuel pump inside the tank, so it was getting ground from the metal hose. That car had many, many....many problems.)
I remember reading about your LeBaron, and how difficult it was to find the issue. During this process I did read and reference your thread as a guide for my van.
 

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FWIW, I ended up changing the MAP/BAR on the LeBaron not once but FOUR times before it ran right. I had a new one and three known-good spares. One of the known-good spares worked. Along the way, I had a similar behavior from one of the sensors, I believe it was the new one. It seemed like SMEC was way more picky about the MAP/BAR input for some reason. I also zip-tied the hoses onto the sensor nipples. Without it, they would still leak during boost no matter what. (Granted, in my case the bigger problem was that the ground wire was broken off of the fuel pump inside the tank, so it was getting ground from the metal hose. That car had many, many....many problems.)
If your vacuum hoses are leaking under boost then they are probably the wrong size too loose. I usually take the sensors off the car walk into autozone and match up with the rolls of hoses they have in the back. they're usually a dollar a foot. You can redo the whole thing in the store parking lot takes probably 20 30 minutes. And they have reducers T's etc.
One of the first things to do on these cars when u get em. This platform came out over 40 years ago so the small plastic and rubber vac hoses are mostly toast and the engine is running limp mode with all the sensors not reading right.

 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Well...I was gonna be a dork and reference your first videos and say the problem was your parking brake was still on. ;-)
Ha! That is actually how bad the brakes are on the van, the light is on. The pedal almost touches the floor when you go to brake. and with front struts doing nothing, makes for an interesting drive when speed kicks in.
 
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