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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I had to do the timing belt on my 1990 daytona es turbo 2.5l followed the instructions on here and in the manual I downloaded it's as far as I can tell base set timing problem is engine will crank but wont fire over and randomly the honk honks mid crank. Sounds like it wants to go but just won't. New spark plugs new hep distributor cap and rotor and coil filter and pressure sensor. I also checked the and with the ground wire fuel pump comes on power everywhere it should be only thing not stock is some one tried to steal the cat and cut the exuast behind cat and damaged inside with pry bar so I straight pipe
 

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If she was running OK before you did the work, my money's on the belt being off. There's a lot of alignment to maintain when installing a new belt - it's very common for something to be a bit off once you tension the belt and crank down the bolt. I've done 25-30 2.2L/2.5L belts over the years and still double-, triple-, and quadruple-check everything from the timing mark at zero (with #1 at TDC) to the intermediate shaft markings to the cam position.

I'm guessing the "honk-honk" you mentioned is a popping sound like she's just about to fire? This can be a telltale sign of a misaligned belt.
 

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If she was running OK before you did the work, my money's on the belt being off. There's a lot of alignment to maintain when installing a new belt - it's very common for something to be a bit off once you tension the belt and crank down the bolt. I've done 25-30 2.2L/2.5L belts over the years and still double-, triple-, and quadruple-check everything from the timing mark at zero (with #1 at TDC) to the intermediate shaft markings to the cam position.

I'm guessing the "honk-honk" you mentioned is a popping sound like she's just about to fire? This can be a telltale sign of a misaligned belt.
Could be wrong firing order too.
 

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If checking/correcting Cam Timing does not rectify the problem post back and we will get you running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If she was running OK before you did the work, my money's on the belt being off. There's a lot of alignment to maintain when installing a new belt - it's very common for something to be a bit off once you tension the belt and crank down the bolt. I've done 25-30 2.2L/2.5L belts over the years and still double-, triple-, and quadruple-check everything from the timing mark at zero (with #1 at TDC) to the intermediate shaft markings to the cam position.

I'm guessing the "honk-honk" you mentioned is a popping sound like she's just about to fire? This can be a telltale sign of a

If checking/correcting Cam Timing does not rectify the problem post back and we will get you running.
 

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It's easy to get something wrong. So don't panic.
My guess is the intermediate shaft! It is hard to get the intermediate shaft to line up by sighting the alignment mark correctly., and that can change the distributor position. I have sometimes been able to rotate the "dizzy" to the correct timing position without re-setting the whole thing, Then a guy notices that the distributor is in the "wrong" position because it is no longer parallel to the block, but if it runs right, then it is o.k. It is also rather easy to get the cam off by a tooth because it is hard to see the alignment when one sights over the struts and stuff, but in such a case as that, it should still fire up and run.
. The engine will still run properly, even if the cam is retarded or advanced a tooth, so that's why my bet is on the position of the dizzy (alignment of the intermediate shaft)..
 

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You should also look very closely at the spark plug wires where they plug into the distributor cap. MANY wire sets do not have the ends of the wire far enough out of the boot to properly insert all the way into the holes in the cap. The wires may look like they are installed, but if you pull off the cap with the wires still in place and turn it upside-down, you may not see any/all of the metal ends sticking out (into the inside of the cap) like they should be. And your wires should be (looking at the engine from in front of the car) Left front position: #2, left rear position: #1, right rear: #3, right front position: #4, going clockwise around the cap. Like this:

2 1
4 3
(FRONT)

And with the engine at #1 TDC, the distributor rotor should be pointing pretty much directly at the #1 plug wire on the cap, even if the distributor is NOT turned so the flat front edge is parallel to the engine block. That should get you close enough to at least start. If that doesn't get it to fire, look under the plastic ignition pick-up inside the distributor and make sure the metal shutter ring is not loose or fallen off. Does your distributor rotor also have the metal shutter ring in place? And make sure that both plugs coming out of the distributor are plugged in all the way and the correct plugs connected. They both look a lot alike, but I'm not sure if you CAN get them mixed up. It's been a few years.

Hope that helps.
 
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