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1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was driving the other night (a little fast) and the mat got caught somehow under the gas pedal, I'm not sure what really happened, I may have down shifted while it was stuck and I pulled the mat back when I realized it got caught. Right after my car stalled, it restarted, but the check engine light came on and when I was driving my car started jerking like I wasn't getting gas. It would start out ok but when I pressed more on the gas that is when it would start jerking. Did it in 2nd and 3rd gear also. Is there a sensor or something that could have gotten thrown off? Any ideas what I can check? Thank you for any help.
 

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Welcome To TD!!!
Check to see what fault codes are stored.
Is this a 2.2L VNT or a 2.5L T1?

 

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1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome To TD!!!
Check to see what fault codes are stored.
Is this a 2.2L VNT or a 2.5L T1?

It is a 2.2. Yes, I was just going to go check those in a few minutes, I had forgotten about getting it the codes that way. Thank you.
 

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1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello, well I checked and code 13 comes up for the map sensor signal to the computer not changing. So I need to change the map sensor? Or?
 

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No, chances are you have a disconnected or broken vacuum line.
The vacuum line comes from the main vacuum block and runs to the Fuel Pressure Regulator and splits and runs to the Baro Solenoid, from the Baro Solenoid the vacuum line runs to the Map Sensor.
Give me a few minutes to get on a laptop and I can post some pics to help you out.
 

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1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No, chances are you have a disconnected or broken vacuum line.
The vacuum line comes from the main vacuum block and runs to the Fuel Pressure Regulator and splits and runs to the Baro Solenoid, from the Baro Solenoid the vacuum line runs to the Map Sensor.
Give me a few minutes to get on a laptop and I can post some pics to help you out.
Thank you so much. I have been out at my car trying to get the #32 relay out for my headlights, went and got a new fuse. put it in and then I saw another post from you saying it isn't the relay. Apparently not because they are not going up and down. I thought for sure it was the relay, about a week ago I was trying to get it out, got it a tiny bit pulled out and couldn't do it. So I pushed it back in and not that night, but the following day they started working! I was sooooo happy, but it was short-lived. They only worked for about 4 days. I just bought this car at the beginning of May. I had asked if the headlights and ac work (meaning do they go up and down and does it come on and get cool) I was told "yes everything works and then some, you won't be disappointed". Wel,l lets say I was a little disappointed. There were many problems, needless to say the headlights didn't work, the ac came on, but there was no cold air among other things. I have already had to buy a new starter also, and then this stupid thing happened!
 

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1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you so much for your help, I really appreciate it. I have printed info and downloaded pictures. I will have to find someone to help me with this stuff, I'm not sure how to do all of this. Hopefully I can get someone tomorrow.

Your picture looks just like mine, it is white also, with a little red around the striped area. I really like these cars.
 

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Let me know what you find as far as the running issue or if you require more info/assistance.

The relays located in the relay bank that is located by the fuse block are for the headlamps themselves, not the headlamp doors.
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I assume the headlamps come on (illuminate) but the doors will not open, is this correct?
The headlamp doors are controlled by a Headlamp Relay Module located by the steering column under the dash. the relays in the module are controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module) located behind the Right Side (Passenger Side) kick panel, when the BCM see's a signal from the Headlamp Switch (which is another high failure item due to PCB and connector issues) the BCM completes the ground side of the relay(s).
HEADLAMP RELAY MODULE
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BACKSIDE OF HEADLAMP SWITCH
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Green Tire Circuit component

The headlamp relay module is prone to failure due to cracked solder joints on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
One way that I found to help determine this is to locate the module, remove it from its bracket (it slides off) and turn the headlamps on and then squeeze the module body in different locations, by doing this you may make a connection if the solder joints are cracked and the doors will operate.
If this does not produce any results then we will diagnose the issue further.

Power to the Headlamp Relay Module comes from CB3 (Circuit Breaker) located in the fuse block.
CB3 also supplies power to the ADL (Auto Door Lock) Relay and Power Seats, if they are all working then there is not an issue with the circuit breaker.
.
Font Rectangle Number Pattern Signage
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hello,
I'm bad I still have checked the headlamp relay under the dash. I guess I'm scared, I don't know if I have to take the dash apart and want ready to get into that can of worms yet.

I do have another problem, my car overheated the other day when I was on the freeway and there was some traffic.
My heart guage doesn't work, but I saw the Check Guages light flash.

Anyway, I got the guage sensor today and then saw a post here that there is are some wrong ones even though they look the same.
I hope I got the correct one.
I also got a new thermostat in case that was the problem and some radiator flush. I am wondering if I should just get a new radiator is it isn't the thermostat? Would that be good to do or could it be something else causing it to overheat?

Thank you too, for all the help you have given me. I wish you were near here so you could fix my lights. Lol
 

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1989 Dodge Shadow 2.5 non turbo 3 speed automatic
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Oh I forgot, one more thing, before I change the temp guage sensor, do I need to drain the radiator? Thank you.
You only need to drain it enough to get the level blow the sensor and thermostat. There should be a bleeding plug near the sensor you can use to check if the coolant is low enough. There is also a petcock on the lower passenger side of the radiator. Drain it from there. No matter what you do you are doing to spill some so put some cardboard down.

Motor vehicle Line Font Auto part Circle
 

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Oh I forgot, one more thing, before I change the temp gauge sensor, do I need to drain the radiator? Thank you.
The OP stated "Temp Gauge Sensor" which is actually a sending unit, it is located in the engine block above the oil filter, so Yes, you will need to drain the coolant.
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One quick question for the OP, why are you replacing the temperature sending unit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Oh my gosh, I've had a heck of s time the last few days since asking about the temp sensor. I got a new one, took the other one out, but when I put the new one in (which by the way was the wrong one, I have the correct one now but need to take care of my problems first 🤔🥴🥺😬😩) back to when I was putting the wrong new one on, well I guess I tightened one turn too many and it broke, the end still in the engine is flush with it so you can't grab any of it! Does anyone know of a good way to get it out maybe? I have tried using one of those plastic pieces you put in your wall to put a screw in and it expands it. That didn't work. I'm a little afraid to use an easy out because the bread piece is so thin. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thank you in advance.

Wow, I didn't think it was going to be so difficult to get a new radiator! Nobody has the right one. Them I saw a place (NAPA) did in stock, pick up in half hour. So U ordered it only to have someone call be within 5 minutes of the order telling me they don't have it. I ordered one from AutoZone tonight, Jim crossing my fingers they don't call me and tell me they can't get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Another thing I've been working on too were my fuel injectors. Everytime I drove I was smelling gas, a lot of gas. Then we noticed one of the injectors was wet around the bottom, I smelled it and yep, gas! So I got new o ring took them out and cleaned/changed o rings. Omg when I drove it, it took off so smooth! And no more gas smell. But a bit later upon driving, it stalked a couple times and was hard to start and the rpm gauge wasn't exactly smooth at the 1000 anymore.

I was guessing maybe it's because the computer has to reset things? I remember reading that it takes so many (can't remember the amount) starts to get everything set right from the pcm?
Could this be the reason?
That was 3 days ago, it does seems to be running much better now, but just to maybe help i put some injector cleaner in the gas and an going to change the fuel filter.

Then after i do this and get that sensor out of the engine, I need to fix my wipers, the drivers side wiper plastic piece that holds it on broke. I guess I need to take the whole wiper assembly out? Does anyone have a diagram of how those pieces hold the wipers on?
While I'm doing this, I may as well fix the washing fluid squirter, it does not work. I guess I need a new pump, but I also noticed the house was all packed up with dried blue stuff, so instead of cleaning then all out, probably get new ones, if not too much.
Then I can get to radiator and then when all else is well, guess I'll have to take the headlight problem.

One thing though that worked fine, I clay barred and waxed it, it looks gorgeous! 😻
 

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Take a deep breath, relax, one thing at a time.

TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT

The temperature sending unit should not be that difficult to remove...
Drill/Drill bits and an Easy-Out.

Testing the gauge and wiring is very simple.
1)Remove the single wire connector from the sending unit.
2)Connect a jumper wire to the metal terminal in the harness connector and a known good ground.
3)Turn the key to the "on" position.
4)The gauge needle should move all the way to "Hot".
5)If it does, replace the sending unit.
6)If it does not the issue is with the wiring, instrument cluster or gauge.
NOTE; The temp gauge in these cars is not accurate, the needle/gauge reading will read differently in cold and hot weather, this is normal due to the placement of the temperature sending unit in the block.
Chrysler even issued a TSB about "Gauge Fluctuation" in cold weather.
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RADIATOR
If this is a 2.2L VNT you are not going to find a radiator, it is discontinued by Mopar, Valeo (the original manufacturer) stopped producing them years ago and the aftermarket never made them. (only 900 VNT's were produced, 1990 only)
When I needed one a radiator shop we dealt with found one for me in upstate N.Y., that was 15 years + ago.
The only radiators that will be listed are for the 2.5L turbo without an intercooler, the intercooler on the 2.2L VNT bolts to and supports the L/S (driver side) of the radiator.
My suggestion would be open a thread in the "Parts Wanted" section, be sure to list that it is a 2.2L VNT.

The Mopar part # for the VNT radiator is...4401674, it fits 1990 Daytona, Lebaron and TC Maserati (G/J/Q Body)
Here are two listings for used VNT radiators.
ARIZONA PARTS (Site User Name is "Marty Mopar, has been on TD for years)

CAR-PARTS.COM (A listing of junkyards across the country, if looking for the site make sure you place the hyphen (-) between car and parts or you will get the wrong site)

If you have any other questions, need info or assistance Please feel free to ask.
 
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