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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hello,
Thank you again for your help.

The radiator isn't leaking, should I try flushing it out? Won't I maybe get the same problems if I buy a used one? But yes, it is a 2.2. I guess there is no way to make the 2.5 one fit. I found a radiator place that makes these radiators with the fans attached (they are very different looking) but I found one that says it fits my car, but it is almost 800.00!

It is okay to use an easy out on the sensor that broke, it looks very thin. I'm afraid I'll damage the engine. It's going to be hard getting a drill in there, not much room. Just in case something goes wrong and it took a little metal of the engine, is there a way to somehow fix it, would a helicoil (I think that's what it's called) work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
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This is a screenshot of that 750.00 radiator, it looks like the cap is on the wrong side, so I don't think it would work either.
 

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The 2.5L Turbo 1(non intercooled) Radiator will fit but you would have to remove/delete your intercooler and you do not want to do that.

What is the actual problem you are having with the cooling system...
Running too cool?
Running too hot?
Coolant is dirty/contaminated?
Are you just concerned about getting debris in the water jacket from drilling/removing the broken sending unit?

There should be room enough to get to the broken sending unit with a drill, you may have to remove the distributor cap to get more room, if not use an angled drill.
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Always start with a small drill bit to make a pilot hole.(I would recommend using new, sharp bits)
Use a center punch to make a small divot in the center of the broken sending unit so the drill bit does not wobble around when getting the hole started.
Drill slowly until you have a centered hole started.
To avoid any material entering the engine you can have someone hold the attachment hose from a vacuum cleaner over top while you are drilling.
If worse comes to worse you could use a Heli-Coil to repair any damaged threads.
If you get it out and the threads are slightly damaged get yourself an 18-27 NPT tap to chase the threads.

If/when you remove the broken sending unit and you want to drain/refill the cooling system here is the method.
You will need to remove the hex bleed plug in the cylinder head behind the thermostat, this is the only way to drain all coolant and refill without having air in the system.
It is a 5/16" (8mm) Hexbit, you will probably need an adapter (3/8" drive - 1/2" drive) and a 1/2" breaker bar.
Try to slightly tighten first then loosen, you may also want to soak it with a good rust penetrant first.


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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
It been getting hot, since the guage wasn't working, when it would get hot I could see the check guages light flash on (so I figured it was for it getting hot). It sure was, I usually don't drive very far, but one day I was on the freeway and there was traffic, I saw the check guages light come on, then when I would drive a little it would go out, stop again, on again. So I got off the freeway to let it cool down, then took streets to where I was going 10 min away and when I got there and parked the coolant started overflowing out of the overflow. This is the 2nd time it has done that.

I don't know if there is air in the cooking system, clogged radiator? I put a new thermostat in.

Anyway, a friend/mechanic got the sensor out for me and put the new one in, it's so nice to have the guage working!

With the radiator, is it possible it just has air in the system? After running it one day, I felt the top house and it was warm, but the bottom was a lot cooler than the top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
What I am doing now is working on radiator situation, in going to flush it.

But the other day I had redone the o rings on my injectors, well at first it was great not smelling the gas. But now, the same one is leaking again. It had been on the end, so I put it on the 2nd position to see if it was the injector or when it goes in. When I had taken them out, I noticed 1 was different from the rest, yes the one that was leaking. The others had a metal body and metal at the spray tip. The leaky one was mostly plastic. I guess someone had changed just one off them before? Any way I'm new getting injectors. After I get these 2 things done, I'm sure I'll be back soon, because I know I'm going to need help for fixing my driver's side wiper! 😬 (I would do the headlights first, but since it's winter and will be raining, I'll need the wiper first.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Hello,
I'm bad I still have checked the headlamp relay under the dash. I guess I'm scared, I don't know if I have to take the dash apart and want ready to get into that can of worms yet.

I do have another problem, my car overheated the other day when I was on the freeway and there was some traffic.
My heart guage doesn't work, but I saw the Check Guages light flash.

Anyway, I got the guage sensor today and then saw a post here that there is are some wrong ones even though they look the same.
I hope I got the correct one.
I also got a new thermostat in case that was the problem and some radiator flush. I am wondering if I should just get a new radiator is it isn't the thermostat? Would that be good to do or could it be something else causing it to overheat?

Thank you too, for all the help you have given me. I wish you were near here so you could fix my lights. Lol

Hello,
Since I want able to get my fuel injectors I decided to give the headlight door a try. (Yes the lights come on, the doors just don't open and close.) Also, the door locks and seat fed/rev and tilt back work.

I took the module/relay? It from under the steering wheel, couldn't get them to work. So I took it out and touch the solder connection with a iron and put it back and still nothing? It was weird how after that day I changed a relay up in the drivers side wall, that the next day they started working. But that only lasted about 2 days.
 

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COOLING SYSTEM
There are a lot of reasons/causes for overheating, from improper coolant mix, air in the system, collapsed hoses, restricted radiator, restricted air flow in front of the condenser/radiator, faulty thermostat, faulty water pump, head gasket (exhaust gases enter the cooling system).
1) To be sure you have all of the air out of the system you have to remove the bleed plug from the cylinder head behind the thermostat housing, with the plug removed you fill the system through the radiator until the coolant level stays filled with the top of the opening, put the plug back in, fill the radiator and then fill the overflow bottle.
See Post #24
2)Does it only overheat at highway speeds?
If so, be sure the lower air deflector (the one you run over when you pull up to far in parking lots) is still there, secure and not cracked/broken.
Daytona has very little grill area, without the lower air deflector air will not be deflected up to the radiator during highway speeds and coolant temps will rise.
3)Is the cooling fan cycling on?
The fan should cycle on at 210-215 degrees and shut off at about 192 degrees.
The way
5)Bleed Hole in Thermostat.
Our car use a thermostat that does not have a "bleed hole". The bleed hole allows air to be removed and very slight coolant flow between the radiator and block when the thermostat is closed, this will lessen thermal shock to the system when the thermostat opens prolonging head gasket life.
Drill an 1/8" hole in the thermostat flange and reinstall the thermostat with the bleed hole at the 6 o'clock position.
Photo is Courtesy of Donavans Dodge Garage.
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FUEL INJECTORS
3)It is the upper o'ring on the injector(s) that prevents fuel leakage, the lower o'ring seals the manifold from vacuum/pressure leaks.
One of the other issues is tears in the injector connector cover which allows moisture in and corrosion forms damaging the connector and possibly the injector.
If left uncorrected you will eventually have a misfire condition and either a Code 26 or Code 27 will be set with the CEL illuminated.
I replaced my injector connectors about 15 years ago (or so), if needed you can purchase injector connector pigtails from...

HEADLAMP DOORS
The headlamp door system is BCM (Body Control Module) controlled.
Headlamp doors not opening is a common problem.
1) There are a few reasons for the doors not opening...
Most are related to cracked solder joints on the Headlamp Switch PCB, Headlamp Relay Module PCB, BCM or any of the wiring in between.
Normal diagnostic's are performed using a scanner (OTC 4000E, Snap On MT 2500, Chrysler DRBII) to access the BCM and run the flow chart in the 1990 AG/AJ Body Control Diagnostics Manual.
If you have a cracked solder joint on the Headlamp Relay Module PCB (printed circuit board) you can sometimes tell by turning on the headlamps and the squeezing/twisting the body of the headlamp relay module, if the doors open you know your issue is with the relay module.
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hi, I got new injectors, no more leak. But a little bit ago I was draining the radiator to flush out and change coolant and after warning up and it got to the 2nd line on the guage the fan still didn't come on. What should I check regarding the fan?
Could it be that other sensor near the thermostat?
Thank you.
 

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The sending unit you replaced is for the gauge only, be aware, the gauges are not accurate and gauge position will read differently in cold and hot weather, it is more or less just a general indicator of engine temp.

The CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) located in the cylinder head by the thermostat housing is the sensor that sends actual coolant temp to the engine controller which it uses along with other sensors for fuel control and spark advance.
The engine controller also controls cooling fan operation using the CTS info.
The cooling fan will turn on at 210-215 degrees F, the fan will shut off at approximately 192 degrees F.
The only way to know what the actual temp is would be with a scanner or using a digital voltmeter.
1)Backprobe the CTS connector with your Digital Voltmeter and start the engine.
2)You will see a voltage that will change as the temps get higher/lower.
3)This voltage translates to an exact temperature.
4)Allow the engine to run until the fan cycles on/off.
5)If the temp/voltage reads higher than 215 degrees and the fan has not cycled on then you will have to diagnose the cooling fan circuit.
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If you only want to check cooling fan operation...
Start the engine.
With the engine running unplug the Coolant Temp Sensor connector, the CEL will illuminate and the cooling fan will cycle on.
Did the cooling fan cycle on?
When done, shut the engine off then reconnect the CTS connector, there will be a Code 22 stored in memory, this does not indicate a problem.

If there are any issues/comments/questions, feel free to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Oh my gosh, I've had a heck of s time the last few days since asking about the temp sensor. I got a new one, took the other one out, but when I put the new one in (which by the way was the wrong one, I have the correct one now but need to take care of my problems first 🤔🥴🥺😬😩) back to when I was putting the wrong new one on, well I guess I tightened one turn too many and it broke, the end still in the engine is flush with it so you can't grab any of it! Does anyone know of a good way to get it out maybe? I have tried using one of those plastic pieces you put in your wall to put a screw in and it expands it. That didn't work. I'm a little afraid to use an easy out because the bread piece is so thin. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thank you in advance.

Wow, I didn't think it was going to be so difficult to get a new radiator! Nobody has the right one. Them I saw a place (NAPA) did in stock, pick up in half hour. So U ordered it only to have someone call be within 5 minutes of the order telling me they don't have it. I ordered one from AutoZone tonight, Jim crossing my fingers they don't call me and tell me they can't get it.
The sending unit you replaced is for the gauge only, be aware, the gauges are not accurate and gauge position will read differently in cold and hot weather, it is more or less just a general indicator of engine temp.

The CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) located in the cylinder head by the thermostat housing is the sensor that sends actual coolant temp to the engine controller which it uses along with other sensors for fuel control and spark advance.
The engine controller also controls cooling fan operation using the CTS info.
The cooling fan will turn on at 210-215 degrees F, the fan will shut off at approximately 192 degrees F.
The only way to know what the actual temp is would be with a scanner or using a digital voltmeter.
1)Backprobe the CTS connector with your Digital Voltmeter and start the engine.
2)You will see a voltage that will change as the temps get higher/lower.
3)This voltage translates to an exact temperature.
4)Allow the engine to run until the fan cycles on/off.
5)If the temp/voltage reads higher than 215 degrees and the fan has not cycled on then you will have to diagnose the cooling fan circuit.
View attachment 277769 View attachment 277770

If you only want to check cooling fan operation...
Start the engine.
With the engine running unplug the Coolant Temp Sensor connector, the CEL will illuminate and the cooling fan will cycle on.
Did the cooling fan cycle on?
When done, shut the engine off then reconnect the CTS connector, there will be a Code 22 stored in memory, this does not indicate a problem.

If there are any issues/comments/questions, feel free to ask.
Hello, Yes I saw that if you unplug the coolant temp sensor and the fan comes on, then it's the sensor. I did unplug it but the fan did not come on.

I know that other sensor isn't a real accurate temp indicator, but it gives a little of an idea. When I am on the freeway (when it's moving of course) the temp is great, in fact I can see it lowering. It's just driving around the streets and stopping is when it gets hot.
I was just kinda going by my other Daytona, when it was running good the guage would pretty much be at the first line then later on the second line, of it went past the 2nd line I would panic.

But last night I was on the fwy and the temp guage was below the first line and when I got off the freeway after a couple min the temp guage was in the middle of both off them, but then the check guages light would come on at stopping and go back out when i took off again.

I'm hoping this is for to me not getting the screw out behind the thermostat yet, I didn't have the right tool. I went and bought one this morning, so in awhile I'll attempt to get it out.

It's weird tho after I drained the coolant out yesterday and put water to rinse and was it run to get warm per instructions, after awhile the check engine light came on, so I turned it off immediately. I checked the codes and there was about 5 that came up! Anyway, before I left last night I unhooked the batt to clear it. That is when it did what I described above. I checked it again today, knowing the codes would be there, but all that came up was 12 and 55??
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
If it isn't air in the cooling system, should I check the fan relay. I'm just not sure how to do the stuff u were describing to do? I know how to use a meter for some things, I'm not sure of the placement of the probes? 😳

Thank you again for your help.
 

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If you disconnected the CTS connector with the engine running and the cooling fan did not cycle on then there is an issue with the cooling fan circuit.
The engine controller controls the ground side of the cooling fan relay, power is from underhood sources.
1)Disconnect the cooling fan motor connector
2)Start the engine
3)With the engine running disconnect the CTS connector.
4)Using a 12 volt test lamp or digital voltmeter check for power (12 volts) on the LT GRN wire on the harness side.
5)If power is present you have a faulty cooling fan motor.
(Before condemning the motor be sure the motors ground wire is connected/secure to the body.
6)If power is not present then the issue is related to the cooling fan relay or the wiring to the relay.
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If you are having issues with the engine running hot at highway speeds be sure the lower air deflector is in place and secure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
No at running speeds on the freeway, the temp is great. It's just driving on the streets (after the car warms up) and at idle, it gets hot rapidly.
 

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They are extremely difficult to remove if they have not been removed in the past due to Galvanic Corrosion between the steel plug and the aluminum head.

Before working on getting the plug out have you determined if the cooling fan is working and if not, why?
See Post #33.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well I'm working on that too, I don't think the fan is working, I changed the relay. I had another problem over the weekend. By car wouldn't start and then after awhile it would. I ran the codes and 11 came up and it said something about the pick up. I knew right away what it was because that's what happened with my old Daytona. Everyone in awhile it wouldn't start then wait and it would until it stopped starting altogether and that was because of the hall effect something? I forget e while name. The pick up coil in the distributor cap. So i got a new one and changed it (along with the fan relay) I just haven't had a chance to check it yet. But I think also the might be air in the hoses because of it overheating and shooting the coolant out of the overflow? So that why I want to get that screw out. Also, because I am changing the coolant and I read somewhere (prob here) that is the only way to properly fill it without getting air bubbles (or to drain it). If i can't get it out would it be ok to use one of those air release valve ports you out in the hose?
 

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DRAIN AND REFILL THE COOLING SYSTEM
If you cannot get the bleed plug out you can remove the Coolant Temp Sensor to drain and fill, the only difference will be it will not fill completely, it will only fill to the bottom of the opening where the CTS was located.

The other way you can help alleviate air is to drill an 1/8" bleed hole in the thermostat flange, install the thermostat with the bleed hole at the 12 o'clock position.

Our thermostats do not have a bleed as other vehicles do, the bleed allows small amounts of coolant to flow even when the thermostat is fully closed, this also helps to alleviate the thermal shock to the cylinder head when the thermostat does open.
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I am going to open a thread in the "Lounge" asking others for tips and/or tricks for alleviating air in the system when the bleed plug cannot be removed, you may want to browse the thread after we get a few responses.

COOLING FAN DIAGNOSTICS
See Post #33.

HEP = HALL EFFECT PICKUP
The HEP provides crank/rpm info to the engine controller.
If the controller does not see a crank/rpm signal it will not actuate the ASD Relay, when this happens you lose power to the +coil, injectors and fuel pump.(either a no start or engine stalls)
On the turbo cars the HEP also provides a Fuel Sync Signal so the controller knows where #1 cylinder is located for injector control.
If there is an issue with the fuel sync signal you will encounter the same symptoms as when you lose the crank/rpm signal, a Code 54 will be stored in memory.

When you install the pickup Do Not place any sharp bends in the wiring as the factory had it or internal damage to the HEP wiring will occur.
Be sure to check the HEP connectors for corrosion or loose fit.
Most folks will tell you you should carry a known good spare and a Phillips screwdriver with you.
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I wrapped the wires with electrical tape where they exit the distributor so no bends can occur and the wiring is then placed in convoluted tubing (Split wire loom) to prevent underhood contaminates from damaging the wires and prevents rubbing of the wires, the entire wrapped assembly is then secured to the main harness to present vibration.
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
We were very careful putting it on, I saw that about not pinching or bending the wires. But I didn't wrap them, I will do that now, thank you.

I ordered a tool that should hopefully get the plug out and ordered a new plug, I hope I ordered the right one? Anyway, if the tool doesn't work I will do what you suggested and will put a small hole in the thermostat. I had just replaced the thermostat and gasket, if I take it off will I need to replace the gasket?

I haven't done the testing on the fan yet, I figure I'll do all that at the same time, but I have a feeling it is the fan? If it is, do they come with the motor? Or do you just get a new motor? Or do you have to get a fan and a motor?

Sorry for all the questions, I really do appreciate all your help and patience.

This question is a little premature a I'm not quite ready to work on it yet, but will need my wipers soon, do I have to take out the wiper motor and everything to put the one arm back on? If so, do you have instructions on how to do it? I guess while I'm at it I should replace the washer fluid pump it doesn't work. I think I need to replace all the tubes etc for it also because they are clogged up. One day I was cleaning one out to see if it would work and there was blue dried up washing fluid stuck in it. I'm hoping maybe it all comes in a kit, the container, pump, tubes and sprayers?

I let you know how it goes after I get the tool. 🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞
 

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The Mopar part # for the bleed plugs is 6034331 and should still be available from Chrysler since the same bleed plug was used on the Jeep/Dodge Truck 3.7L V-6 and 4.7L V-8.
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While you are waiting you should be soaking the plug with Rust Penetrant to help loosen it up, spray it, let it soak, spray again and keep repeating.

The wiper arms can be removed/installed without touching the motor or wiper transmission.
The wiper arm has a clip at the bottom, with the arm on the car lift the arm up, slide the clip out using a screwdriver and release the arm, the arm will stay in the up position, just lift it off of the pivot.
To install just put the arm back on the wiper pivot, lift slightly and push the clip back in and release the arm.
If you are too high or too low with the arm placement remove it and move it one spline up or down as needed.
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You can blow the washer fluid lines out with air, either with an air compressor and blowgun or a can of compressed air.
What exactly is the issue with the wipers?


If needed you can replace the cooling fan motor by itself, the Mopar # is 4364866
I would still suggest you check power at the motor rather than just buying a new motor that may not be the issue.
 
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