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1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Update: Okay I got the bleeder screw out, flush radiator and added new coolant. Some chunks of stuff came out. I was able to use the same bleeder screw. Didn't solve problem, but I'm sure it helped (or will help when I get the culprit fixed).

I just checked the fan, hooked it up to battery and it comes on so, just not the fan. I'm going to check the fuse again. Then I need to check the power going to the fan.
I did the test already to see if the coolant sensor was bad, turned car on and unplugged it, the fan didn't come on.
I already put a new fan relay in.

So I'm going to check power to the fan right now.


With the wipers, they were working, but I was changing the blades and guess I moved the drivers side around a little too much and the plastic linkage (?) Piece down inside broke?
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Omgosh, I just wrote all this already, made a mistake so I edited it and then couldn't find the "post reply" and lost it! So just in case it here and I'm duplicating this is why.

Anyway, here's the update:

Got the bleeder screw out, flushed out radiator, added new coolant. Lots of chunks came out, but did not fix the problem. (Although I'm sure this helped or will help after I find the culprit and fix it.)

Just checked the fan hooked up to the battery and it came on.

Already changed there fan relay.

So now, going to recheck fuse and check power going to the fan.


The wipers worked, but I was changing the blades and guess i moved there drivers side one around a little too much and the plastic linkage broke. I can see a piece of plastic in there and the arm won't move.
 

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So you need new wiper bushings, that is a common issue, they are available aftermarket.
Dorman part #'s...

You will have to remove the wiper transmission (linkage) from the vehicle and perform the repair on the bench.
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Here is a thread showing how to replace the bushings.

Post back with the results of checking for power at the cooling fan motor.
 

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1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I just checked the fuse, but w just saw this connector that I know guess on something (I remember it from my other Daytona) I'm sending you a picture can you tell me where it goes? Maybe I missed it changing the relay it something??
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
While taking these pictures, I looked closely at the fan connector coming from the car and it looks like it has had some trouble before, there is a bunch of electrical tape wrapped around it. I'm going to go remove it in a minute. Is there a fusible link in the somewhere?
 

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Did you check for power at the motor connector yet?
(Start engine, disconnect CTS connector, there should be 12 volts on the LT GN (Light Green) wire on the harness side of the connector)
All power goes to the cooling fan relay...
1)Power on the GY (Grey) wire is from a 20 GA OR Fusible Link
2)Power on the DB/WT (Dark Blue/White) wire is from Fuse #16 (15 amp)
3)Ground Side Control of the Relay is on the DB/PK (Dark Blue/Pink) wire that runs to the SBEC Cavity 31
4)Power out to the Cooling Fan Motor is on the LT GN wire.

Not sure what that RD/BK wire is, a single connector wire is not used for the cooling fan.
I will have to look under my hood to see if I have that same wire/connector, will not be until Sunday, little under the weather right now.

The other connectors are not used, I have the same disconnected wires under my hood, Chrysler used the same harness's on different vehicles with different options so not all are used.

The vacuum line should not be disconnected and plugged.
I am assuming that line is behind the battery?
Where is the other end connected?

Point out on this pic where the line is located.
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Does your cruise control work?
The cruise control servo is located under the battery tray.
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Hi, no I haven't checked the power that goes to the fan connector, I need someone to help me with that.
But,
Yes my cruise control works.
That vacuum hose goes straight back, I can't see where it goes though because it is under the other stuff?

Also what is weird to me, that part I told you looks like it has had trouble that was all taped up, well I took the tape off and yes there was another wire connected to it and that wire runs up to the back and goes into the car, I don't think this is correct is it? I'll attach a picture. (1st pict.)
2nd pict. The little connector, looks like it's coming out of the wires that go to the pcm? I think that's the one you were asking where it came from?
3rd pict. Just to show you the "lovely" job someone did on the vacuum lines. Great huh?
4th picture the fan connector with the wire splice in it that goes to the back and into the car inside, I'm assuming to the fuse box?? On this picture what is that plug for that is behind the yellow connector??
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CONNECTORS
The three connectors you showed me are not used, here are pics from my car.
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YOUR FIRST PICTURE
This pic shows a Blue (BL) wire running from underhood, through the firewall and into the passenger compartment.
That BL wire is not a factory wire, it is for an aftermarket accessory, such as an Alarm System, Additional Gauge(s), Audio System, Additional Lighting, etc.
That grommet (Where the clutch cable comes through) is easy access to run additional wiring from underhood to the Fuse Block or Instrument Cluster, etc.
That is the same spot I used to run wires for my aftermarket Tach and Fuel Pressure Gauge.
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CHECKING FOR POWER TO THE COOLING FAN MOTOR (STEP BY STEP)
1)
Unplug the Cooling Fan Motor Connector
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2)Connect a 12 Volt Test Lamp or Digital Voltmeter (Set on a 20 Volt Scale) to the - (Negative) battery terminal, with the probe of the test lamp or + lead from your meter touch the + battery terminal.
This is to verify that your meter/test lamp has a good connection and is working.
The test lamp should illuminate and the meter should read battery voltage (12 volts).
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NOTE - A 12 volt test lamp is much easier to use in this case.
You can get one at Harbor Freight, Autozone, etc. for not much $.

3)Start the engine and allow to warm for a few minutes.
With the engine running unplug the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) connector.
The CEL (Check Engine Light) will illuminate and constant power (12 volts) will/should be present on the LT GN (Light Green) wire of the motor connector (on the harness side)
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4)Checking For Power...
Touch the probe of the test lamp or + lead of your meter to the power terminal (LT GN wire) of the motor connector on the harness side.
If power is present the test lamp will illuminate or the meter will read battery voltage (which will be above 12 volts since the engine is running).
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5)When you are done testing, shut the engine off, then, reconnect the CTS connector, a Code 22 will be set in memory, this is due to unplugging the CTS, not an indication of a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Hi, I'm going to do the testing tomorrow, but regarding the blue wire, it's not supposed to go to the fan is it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Also, I ran the codes and I'm getting codes 25 and 41 coming up.
25 - auto idle speed motor.
41 - alternator field code.
What do these mean?

PS - Hope you're feeling better.
 

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No, the Blue wire is not supposed to run to the fan, it is not factory, it was added by a previous owner for an aftermarket accessory of some sort.
Where does it lead?
Is it currently running to the fan?
My Son ran a wire to the fan relay and a toggle switch inside the car so he could manually turn on the fan when he was racing, is this the case here?

Code 25 indicates that the AIS (Automatic Idle Speed) is not moving when commanded by the engine controller.

Code 41 is Alternator Field Circuit not switching properly.
I can almost bet that your issue here is due to worn brushes in the alternator, this is common, I have replaced mine twice in 32 years.
You can get the brush holder on eBay...
It is relatively easy to repair on the car.

To be sure that these codes were not set during diagnostics my suggestion for the two codes is...
1)Finish the issue with the cooling fan.
2)Once that is corrected clear the codes (battery disconnect) then drive the car and see if any of the above codes return.

Thank You for the Well Wishes, I am feeling better, it was not Covid, just a bug going around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Hi, okay that blue wire was connected to the fan, ran up into the car and was attached to the fuse box and had some connector on y and the wire looked like it burned out got hot. I have no idea what they were doing, but it was just connected for the fan. The fan wire did not go to the relay. Anyway, it isn't completely fixed yet, but at least I can turned the ac or heater on now and the fan will come on. I don't think it is coming on by itself. I let it run and the gauge got up to the second line and the fan still didn't come on, it might have it if I would have let it get a little warmer, but I figured it had been getting hot too much lately and wanted to give it a break, lol. But will check it. I'm sending you a picture of the connecter end and the metal thing they had on the fuse box.

I will clear the codes and see if any come back.

Thank you again. 🤗
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I am slightly confused, is the cooling fan working now?

The previous owner probably had a switch installed to manually turn on the fan from the passenger compartment.
My Son did this on his 94 Plymouth Sundance 3.0L so he could turn the fan on manually after each pass down the 1/4 mile to help cool the engine and trans fluid (Auto Trans).

The pics show a circuit breaker (acts like a fuse except it will reset itself as it cools) and an 10-12 gauge eyelet.

You cannot go by the gauge, they are not accurate and will read differently in cold weather than they do in warm weather.
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The gauge is only there for aesthetics (Sports Cars Use Gauges) and a general idea of coolant temp, if the gauge is staying full cold or goes to full hot there is an issue, anywhere between the two marks is normal.
On my car the gauge will only move to the 1/4 mark in the winter when the fan cycles on, it will move to the 3/4 mark in the summer before the fan cycles on, in both cases coolant temp was the same.
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If you want to put your mind at ease you can see true coolant temp by "Backprobing" ("Backprobing eliminates the need to puncture or pierce wire insulation to test the circuit.") the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) connector and reading the voltage with a Digital Voltmeter.
The voltage translates to an exact temperature.
1)Place the Voltmeter on a 20V scale, connect the two leads to the backprobe pins and start the engine.
(If the meter reads - in front of the numbers just switch your - and + leads at the CTS connector)
As the engine warms you will see voltage change, the cooling fan should cycle on at approx. 2.10 volts (= 212 Degrees F.)
(The CTS is a dual stage sensor, if you watch the voltage it will decrease as the engine warms then at approx. 1.40 volts (117 degrees F.) you will see the voltage rise again to approx. 3.80 volts (127 degrees F.) this is normal).

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Hope all of this helps and is not too confusing.

Also, curious, how long have you owned this car?
 

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This is where mine tends to stay (it is a 2.5 NA though so I expect it runs colder than a turbo). My fan doesn’t come on in the winter unless I am idling for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Hi, well the fan works when I turn the air or heater on. I'm not sure if it will come on by itself. I don't see any evidence of s switch being on the inside anywhere? That little connector was attached to the fuse box or the relay panel (I'm not sure, I am not the one who took it off).

But like you said, I guess there is some problem somewhere, because the car shouldn't be getting that hot in the winter when I am driving on the street, since it is winter. (When I am on the freeway it's great, as long as there isn't traffic).

What could be making it get so hot so quickly?

I have had the car since May of this year.

Also, I cleared the codes the other day, then checked them and I got code 22. I just checked them again and got code 22 again.

I'll find someone to help me do what you suggest above. I'm not brave enough to try it by myself.

Oh do you know where I could possibly find a right side mirror? I broke mine a few days ago shooting paintballs at coyotes to keep them away from the cats.

Thanks again.
 

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Code 22 is Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted.
Be sure the connector is tight/secure, be sure that the terminals in the connector have not been damaged/pushed out/spread.
This is what the terminals should look like.

Backprobe the CTS connector and read the voltage with the key on.
What is the voltage reading?
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We cannot go any further on this until we know exactly what engine temp is, what temp the engine controller is seeing and if the fan will cycle on by itself.(once the Code 22 is resolved)

The engine is going to run at the same temp in winter and summer, city or highway driving.
The coolant temp is controlled by the thermostat which is a 192/195 degree, it constantly opens/closes to maintain that temp, the gauge is not accurate and will not read the same in summer and winter but temp is actually the same.
The controller turns the fan on when the temp reaches 210 degrees F, when the A/C or Defrost are used or if the the vehicle goes into "Failure/Limp in Mode" with the CEL illuminated.

Is the Check Engine Lamp illuminated when you start the car?
If so, the cooling fan should be running constantly when the engine is running.

I have been looking for a drivers side mirror with no luck, mine was broken about 3 years ago, I modified the mirror mounting and it stayed in place until about a month ago.
I opened a thread in the parts wanted section but no luck.
You will not find one in the aftermarket, used is your only choice.
Here is a link to "Used Auto Parts" nationwide.
(If you are ever looking for this site remember to place the hyphen between car and part (car-part) or you will get the wrong site.
Fill in your info and click search and a list of all junkyards in your area that have the mirror will be listed with price and contact info.
The part is listed under "Mirror, Door", then click on "Power/Heated RH."
(Incase you were not aware, Drivers side is Left and Passenger side is Right.)

Got any pics?
Here is my Baby, I bought her new in 12/89, she has lived outside for 32 years and has been my only car and daily driver since 1997, now that I am retired I only drive about 50 miles a week.
These pics are from 5 years ago, she does not look like that anymore, now has lots of primer where the paint has been peeling.
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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Hi, I found a mirror on Ebay, there are a couple different ones (both for Daytona, one doesn't have the "objects _".) I think I paid 25.00, the other one w/o writing is 34.00 I think.

Do you mean does the engine light comes on for a second then goes? If so, then yes. The check eng and check guages lights come on but then go away right away.

Do you think I can just get a new coolant sensor? It has a lot of plumbers tape around it like it might have had some trouble?
I bet when I checked it, unplugged it to see if the fan comes on, I bet the reason it didn't was because of the way they had the fan wire hooked up?

Yes, I'll send a picture. I had the wheels like you have until about 4 days ago. I got new rims and tires, I really like them. It was very difficult to find the correct size I needed, I checked everywhere and finally found some at Tire Rack.

Last night my door lock stopped working. The unlock works, but not the lock. It also doesn't automatically lock when I start driving like it did. Could it be a fuse? Or is it prob the switch?

About a month ago, i used a clay bar and waxed it. Wow, it really helped, looks s lot better now.

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Mine looks just like yours, except my eyes don't close. 🥴I Think they are such neat cars to drive.
I came back on to tell you something else, now I can't remember what it was?!
Oh well, I'll come back if and when I think of it.
 
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