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The car is very clean.
As far as the CEL, I meant has the CEL ever illuminated while you were driving?
The lights coming on and then going out on initial startup is normal, it is a bulb test.

You can certainly replace the CTS, if the connector looks suspect you can also replace the pigtail/connector.
Again, you will need to remove the bleed plug to properly refill the system.

You only needed the glass, had no idea they even made the replacement glass, my mirror was hit and broke the mounting studs.

The power door locks are BCM controlled.(Body Control Module, located behind the R/S kick panel).
BCM also controls Intermittent Wiper Operation, Headlamp Door Operation, Electronic Instrument Cluster Operation (if equipped), Courtesy Lamps, Message Center.
Questions...
1)Is it only the drivers side that will not lock or both the driver and passenger side will not lock.
2)If it is only the drivers door that will not lock, will the driver side lock using the door lock switch on the passenger side?


How many projects/repairs do you have going on with this car right now?
1)Cooling Fan
2)Headlamp doors will not close
3)Power Door Locks
4)Possible Alternator Brush issue...(Code 41)
 

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1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Hi,
Nevermind on the lock issue, it started working again this morning. ??? (I only have controls on the drivers side, none on the passenger door.)
These cars have wire gremlins sometimes I think.

The code 41 went away, just the 22 comes up now.

Hopefully the cooling fan will come on on it's own after I change the coolant sensor??? 🤞🤞

I'm pretty sure you can get the whole side mirror, or maybe even the mounting plate on Ebay. When I ordered my mirror the guy asked I needed the mounting plate? I'll check if you like?

So hopefully the only repairs left are:

Coolant sensor/fan
Headlights
Driver side windshield wiper
Figure out that hose that is blocked off you said shouldn't be like that.
My power steering fluid leaks. It was doing that when I first got it, there was something loose underneath. It was tightened and worked for awhile, but it's leaking again.

Then later on maybe see why these don't work, but not a big deal:
A couple controls for the driver seat, it goes forward and back, up and down and tilts. But there is one on the door panel that doesn't work. And the ones on the seat, one says wings, the other is lumbar, but neither of them work. When i press one of them I can hear something like it's trying to work but doesn't do anything.
And then on the roof, climate temp it doesn't work at all.
One thing that does bother me is someone messed with the interior lights, I am not able to turn them off when the door is open. I know they are suppose to be able to. My other Daytona did.

I believe these are all the things I know of so far. I recently changed the headlights to brighter bulbs, lot nicer to drive with. I've had to put a new starter in. I've changed the oil to synthetic, new oil filter, got new sparkplugs and wires, new fuel injectors, new fuel filter, flushed out radiator and put new coolant, new headlights, I put new fog lamp light fixtures but now have to fix it get a new one on one side, when up a driveway I didn't know was as steep as it was scraped the bottom and I think that's why it broke. Do you know if there are any that you can just change the bulbs on, instead of having to get a whole new light? It's crazy, you can't get the light bulbs out of them!

The check engine light only came on that time when one of the vacuum houses came off. You helped me with that. The light went out afterwards. I don't think it's come on anywhere time, except for a minute after unhooking the coolant sensor, but then went out.
 

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DOOR LOCKS
I had a similar issue with the power door locks about 20 years ago, I gave a ride to a fellow co-worker, everytime I hit the unlock button he pulled up on the outside door handle which prevented the door from unlocking, this happened about 5 times and then the power door locks stopped working, would not work from either switch or the auto door locks.
About 3 months later I was cruisin down the highway and the door locks cycled on/off and they have worked fine ever since.
I tell everyone that the constant pulling on the door handle while pushing the unlock button gave the BCM a headache.
There are two switches on the passenger door, window and door locks.


MIRROR


POWER SEATS
Your seat issue could be switch related or seat related.
The seat switch is a problem, only forward/back have worked on my switch for the last 10 years or so.
Unfortunately the seat switch has long been discontinued from Mopar and has never been available aftermarket.
Luckily I never have to move my seat, one day when I am feeling motivated I may take the switch apart and see if I can repair the contacts.
The Mopar # is 4373846 and is listed as "6 Way Power W/Recliner", the switch on the side of the seat for Lumbar and Wing is Mopar #4373856, the issue with lumbar/wing could be switch related or seat related.

WIPERS
As already stated the issue with your wipers is with the linkage bushings.
I did post parts info and a link on actually doing the repair.

CODE 41
If the Code 41 was set by worn brushes it will eventually return, each time the brushes stop making contact with the commutator the Code will set, even if it is just a momentary thing, eventually the brushes will wear down enough that they will stop making contact all together.
I also sent you step by step instructions on replacing the brush holder and where to get it.
Automotive tire Bicycle part Gas Composite material Rim


COURTESY LAMPS
I just checked on my car.
The center dome light is supposed to be on with the door open, there is no way to manually turn it off.

FOG LAMPS
The fog lamp bulbs are replaceable, you have to remove the entire housing by disconnecting the lamp electrical connector from the harness and then removing the two screws on the bottom of the housing and the housing comes out from the front.
Once the housing is out remove the rubber boot, disengage the clip holding the bulb and remove the bulb.
The bulb # is H3.
If you bottomed out enough to hit the fog lamp be sure you did not damage the lower air deflector, the air deflector directs air up to the radiator while you are driving at highway speeds, you will overheat on the highway if that is missing or damaged.

OVERHEAD CONSOLE
My car does not have an overhead console with ambient temp info, it is BCM controlled, I can post diagnostics for you, just need to know exactly what is showing on the display and what is not.

HEADLAMPS
We discussed this earlier, chances are the issue is with the headlamp relay module, without a scanner to access the BCM diagnostics will be more difficult unless you can find a known good relay module and try it.
Rectangle Grey Material property Font Gas


DISCONNECTED EMISSIONS/VACUUM HOSE
You will have to tell me exactly where the other end goes, you may have to remove the air cleaner box to do this.

COOLING FAN
The only way you will know if the fan is going to come on by itself is to allow the engine to run until it cycles on.
Backprobing the CTS connector and reading the voltage with a digital voltmeter will allow you to watch coolant temp to be sure it does not get too high, the fan will cycle on at 210 - 215 degrees F.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design Coil
Handwriting Font Material property Parallel Rectangle


POWER STEERING
You may have to clean the engine compartment and underneath to determine where the fluid is leaking from, it could be the pump, the steering rack or one of the hoses.
Once it is all clean, start the engine and while someone looks under the hood turn the steering wheel stop to stop and keep doing that, turning to the stops increases pressure which may show the leak.
I replaced my pump and pressure hose in 2014.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Hi,
Right now I'm waiting for the mechanic to get here to change my heater core. I had a feeling it was leaking and going to have to be changed soon. The passenger floor was damp a few times and now I can see where it has dripped and spilled.
So I ordered it and the coolant sensor, just waiting on the mechanic.
I hoping everything goes okay, it's a lot of scarry work. I'm going to be in a panic the whole time prob.
I am going out to the car right now to see if I can take a picture to show you where that hose is coming from.

In the first picture. I'm holding the hose and it goes straight back. I felt it to about the center of the second picture (if that makes sense)? But I cannot tell where it's coming? It kind of feels like there is liquid in it?


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Pipeline transport Gas Plumbing
 

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When your mechanic gets there ask him if he can remove the airbox and see where the hose originates from.

Good Luck on the heater core R+R.
Since the cooling system has to be drained this will also be a good time to check cooling fan operation as I posted previously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Hello,
Well it wasn't the heater core that was leaking, it was the ac evaporator core. Had the heater core already so just changed them both. Also, my fan is working now, not thanks to the guy who did the heater core, someone else. I wish I could say that problem is all done, but the guy who did the work, I want to strangle him! He messed up my dash so bad and he left a big piece out, done kind of vent. He broke the screw in places in the center because he had the connectors to the ac heater controller in front of a plastic piece they were supposed to go behind. So it didn't fit all the way in, so you know what her did? He put a screw through the bezel into the controller! My bezel doesn't stay on because the pieces are broken, so I was driving and it and the control came hanging out. 🤬🤬 He even broke one on the radio, so now it isn't tight on one side. The 2 defroster vents at the top, well you can lift them right up. And the air bag light is constantly on! I didn't notice those things, (it was dark) till after i paid him and was driving. When I saw that screw, I was soooooo mad! I don't know if the dash is going to have to come all the way off again to put that piece in? The other person said the air bag light is on because he didn't plug it in? I wonder what else he didn't connect?
 

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I am sorry you had such a poor service experience.

The evaporator itself will not leak a liquid onto your floor, the issue was probably just a clogged drain hose.
Due to the coldness of the evaporator when the refrigerant is flowing through it condensation forms, the liquid condensation then collects on the bottom of the heater box and should drain from the A/C drain tube.
If leaves or other debris get into the airbox the drain can become clogged and the condensation/water will not drain, it will accumulate in the heater box and eventually leak onto your floor.
When a heater core leaks it is leaking coolant which has a distinct smell and feel (slippery) and usually causes the windows to fog from the leaking coolant.
The evaporator itself starts with liquid refrigerant, as heat from the passenger compartment is absorbed by the cold refrigerant the refrigerant then becomes a vapor.
I have seen/replaced numerous leaking evaporators over the years, none left liquid water on the floor.

Exactly what issues do you want/need/require assistance with at this time?

Do Not Work On The SRS System Without First Disconnecting and Isolating The Battery - (Negative) Cable and Waiting Two Minutes Before Touching The System.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Hi, I am still unhappy about my dash, but I got my glove compartment and ashtray lights back on. I have the bezel on somewhat securely, I glued a couple pieces back on. It's not falling off now. but the Air Bag light is still on. My heater works (Not a lot of air comes up thru the vents for the defroster. I charged my AC back up again the other day, but it isn't working. That guy didn't hook something up maybe, or it sounds like the evaporator door isn't moving??? I guess I am going to have to have the dash taken off again to put that long vent looking piece back in and to fix these other issues.

I had another problem in between. Had to change the oil pressure sensor, also it had a small leak from the sensor and now it isn't leaking there anymore, so it's not using as much oil, which is good.

My problem right now, is my check engine lights come on sometimes but when I restart my car it was going out. now its is coming on quicker and staying on longer. I ran the codes and number 23 is coming up. Air charge temp sensor voltage high/low detected?
 

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What are the issues with the dash?

Defrost is "failsafe" meaning that if the HVAC (heater/ventilation/air conditioning) loses its vacuum source it automatically defaults to defrost, all other modes require vacuum to move the mode doors.
If you are not getting enough airflow from defrost there is a problem with the mode doors (in the heater box) or the vacuum actuators.
I am experiencing the same issue, I get just enough airflow from defrost to keep the windows clear, however, when on defrost I also have airflow from the floor, which should not be.
At the end of summer last year I heard a bang come from the dash and lost airflow from the panel, this spring I have to determine if the issue is with the heater box/mode doors or a vacuum actuator.
There are also seals on the mode/blend doors to prevent air from bypassing, those seals will dry out/shrink/become hard over the years and no longer seal properly.
Product Schematic Rectangle Font Material property


Code 23 is very easy to diagnose.
The Air Charge Temp (ACT) sensor is located in the intake manifold.
Organism Font Art Parallel Illustration
Jaw Font Parallel Art Drawing
Rectangle Font Parallel Paper product Paper
Rectangle Font Parallel Number Diagram

To check the circuit you will need a digital voltmeter.
Backprobe the connector with the voltmeter leads, turn the key on and read the voltage, the voltage translates to a temperature.
(Backprobing means to access the connector terminals from the backside of the connector, this allows you to watch live data with your voltmeter, it is also recommended so the terminals in the connector do not get damaged)
If you do not have "backprobe pins" you can use paper clips to backprobe the connector.
Example Of Backprobing A Connector
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design Coil


On a cold engine the ACT sensor temp should read whatever ambient temp is.
If it is not, then post back.
Start the car, watch the voltage, wiggle the wiring and see if voltage changes, the connector not being secure or damaged is a common problem.
Air Charge Temp Sensor Voltage To Temperature Chart.
Font Rectangle Parallel Number


Any other issues that may need attention Please feel free to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
What are the issues with the dash?

Defrost is "failsafe" meaning that if the HVAC (heater/ventilation/air conditioning) loses its vacuum source it automatically defaults to defrost, all other modes require vacuum to move the mode doors.
If you are not getting enough airflow from defrost there is a problem with the mode doors (in the heater box) or the vacuum actuators.
I am experiencing the same issue, I get just enough airflow from defrost to keep the windows clear, however, when on defrost I also have airflow from the floor, which should not be.
At the end of summer last year I heard a bang come from the dash and lost airflow from the panel, this spring I have to determine if the issue is with the heater box/mode doors or a vacuum actuator.
There are also seals on the mode/blend doors to prevent air from bypassing, those seals will dry out/shrink/become hard over the years and no longer seal properly.
View attachment 279780

Code 23 is very easy to diagnose.
The Air Charge Temp (ACT) sensor is located in the intake manifold.
View attachment 279781 View attachment 279784 View attachment 279785 View attachment 279786
To check the circuit you will need a digital voltmeter.
Backprobe the connector with the voltmeter leads, turn the key on and read the voltage, the voltage translates to a temperature.
(Backprobing means to access the connector terminals from the backside of the connector, this allows you to watch live data with your voltmeter, it is also recommended so the terminals in the connector do not get damaged)
If you do not have "backprobe pins" you can use paper clips to backprobe the connector.
Example Of Backprobing A Connector
View attachment 279782

On a cold engine the ACT sensor temp should read whatever ambient temp is.
If it is not, then post back.
Start the car, watch the voltage, wiggle the wiring and see if voltage changes, the connector not being secure or damaged is a common problem.
Air Charge Temp Sensor Voltage To Temperature Chart.
View attachment 279783


Any other issues that may need attention Please feel free to ask.
Hi, thank you so much for the pictures, I need them. I'm going to get to this in a day or two.

I fixed a couple of the issues with the dash being removed. Now it's just the air bag light staying on all the time and that vent piece that goes somewhere in there. I will send you a picture of it (it's in my car right now).
and the issue(s) with the air not blowing in the right places and the ac not working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Hi, thank you so much for the pictures, I need them. I'm going to get to this in a day or two.

I fixed a couple of the issues with the dash being removed. Now it's just the air bag light staying on all the time and that vent piece that goes somewhere in there. I will send you a picture of it (it's in my car right now).
and the issue(s) with the air not blowing in the right places and the ac not working.
Oh yes, I have the same thing, barely comes out of the defroster area, but sure is warm on the floor area. Some air flor from dash vents, but not like it should be. Also though, when I have nothing on No heater, no ac and no fan I can feel warm air blowing???? Not fun in the heat when your ac isn't working properly!
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Hello, on the overhead ambient air
DOOR LOCKS
I had a similar issue with the power door locks about 20 years ago, I gave a ride to a fellow co-worker, everytime I hit the unlock button he pulled up on the outside door handle which prevented the door from unlocking, this happened about 5 times and then the power door locks stopped working, would not work from either switch or the auto door locks.
About 3 months later I was cruisin down the highway and the door locks cycled on/off and they have worked fine ever since.
I tell everyone that the constant pulling on the door handle while pushing the unlock button gave the BCM a headache.
There are two switches on the passenger door, window and door locks.


MIRROR


POWER SEATS
Your seat issue could be switch related or seat related.
The seat switch is a problem, only forward/back have worked on my switch for the last 10 years or so.
Unfortunately the seat switch has long been discontinued from Mopar and has never been available aftermarket.
Luckily I never have to move my seat, one day when I am feeling motivated I may take the switch apart and see if I can repair the contacts.
The Mopar # is 4373846 and is listed as "6 Way Power W/Recliner", the switch on the side of the seat for Lumbar and Wing is Mopar #4373856, the issue with lumbar/wing could be switch related or seat related.

WIPERS
As already stated the issue with your wipers is with the linkage bushings.
I did post parts info and a link on actually doing the repair.

CODE 41
If the Code 41 was set by worn brushes it will eventually return, each time the brushes stop making contact with the commutator the Code will set, even if it is just a momentary thing, eventually the brushes will wear down enough that they will stop making contact all together.
I also sent you step by step instructions on replacing the brush holder and where to get it.
View attachment 278065

COURTESY LAMPS
I just checked on my car.
The center dome light is supposed to be on with the door open, there is no way to manually turn it off.

FOG LAMPS
The fog lamp bulbs are replaceable, you have to remove the entire housing by disconnecting the lamp electrical connector from the harness and then removing the two screws on the bottom of the housing and the housing comes out from the front.
Once the housing is out remove the rubber boot, disengage the clip holding the bulb and remove the bulb.
The bulb # is H3.
If you bottomed out enough to hit the fog lamp be sure you did not damage the lower air deflector, the air deflector directs air up to the radiator while you are driving at highway speeds, you will overheat on the highway if that is missing or damaged.

OVERHEAD CONSOLE
My car does not have an overhead console with ambient temp info, it is BCM controlled, I can post diagnostics for you, just need to know exactly what is showing on the display and what is not.

HEADLAMPS
We discussed this earlier, chances are the issue is with the headlamp relay module, without a scanner to access the BCM diagnostics will be more difficult unless you can find a known good relay module and try it.
View attachment 278068

DISCONNECTED EMISSIONS/VACUUM HOSE
You will have to tell me exactly where the other end goes, you may have to remove the air cleaner box to do this.

COOLING FAN
The only way you will know if the fan is going to come on by itself is to allow the engine to run until it cycles on.
Backprobing the CTS connector and reading the voltage with a digital voltmeter will allow you to watch coolant temp to be sure it does not get too high, the fan will cycle on at 210 - 215 degrees F.
View attachment 278069 View attachment 278070

POWER STEERING
You may have to clean the engine compartment and underneath to determine where the fluid is leaking from, it could be the pump, the steering rack or one of the hoses.
Once it is all clean, start the engine and while someone looks under the hood turn the steering wheel stop to stop and keep doing that, turning to the stops increases pressure which may show the leak.
I replaced my pump and pressure hose in 2014.
Oh yes, I have the same thing, barely comes out of the defroster area, but sure is warm on the floor area. Some air flor from dash vents, but not like it should be. Also though, when I have nothing on No heater, no ac and no fan I can feel warm air blowing???? Not fun in the heat when your ac isn't working properly!
The Overhead console Air Temp doesn't show anything, it won't or isn't on? I need to change one of the map light bulbs and can't see how to do it.

Yes you are correct about the dome light, I had gotten confused. I remembered there was something else about the light which I figuered out the other day. On the dimmer switch, you can turn the dome light on with that. oops

The power steering leak is fixed now. The fan works too.

I still need to do the wiper, haven't gotten to that yet either. :rolleyes:

Do you possibly know when I might be able to find a headlamp relay module? I have searched online and can't find anything.
 

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What I saw in your posts is...
1)Air Bag (SRS, Supplemental Restraint System) Light Illuminated
2)Vent Placement - Send Pic
3)HVAC System - Not Blowing From Correct Vents
4)Overhead Console Inop
5)Map Light Out - Send Pic
6)Wiper Linkage
7)Headlamp Relay Module (4373531 - Fits 90/91)

If this is correct and to avoid confusion, where would you like to start?

I did find a seller that has the Headlamp Relay Module.
His ID on the site is "Marty Mopar", his business is "Arizona Parts".
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Hello, thank you so much! I just saw it right ( about the relay) and sent him a request on how to purchase. I've been so busy lately haven't had time to do anything on the car or come here. I did get the sensor changed for the air temp, i just got a new one and changed it.

I do have a question right now though, where is the horn relay located? On the fuse panel in driver's side panel or under the hood?

I believe mine is going bad because I keep hearing the high pitched whistle sound coming from inside the dash area somewhere.
This happened to me in my other Daytona, I was heading that noise and then one day I got to a friend's house, turned my car off and the horn started honking and wouldn't shut off, I had to unplug the battery. I did research online and found out that if the horn relay is going bad that it will intermittently do this. So I changed the relay and that fixed it. Anyway, I have searched and searched the last few days to find that info somewhere and it's nowhere to be found! Have you heard of a relay giving out warning sounds?
Again, thank you so much for the help and the module info. I hope the guy still has it! As soon as I hear from him that he does I am ordering it!
 

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I personally have never heard a relay make a "high pitched whistle sound".
The relays are located in a "relay bank" behind the "knee bolster" (the large panel under the steering wheel that has the fuse block access cover), remove the knee bolster (5 Phillips head screws and pop out the smaller panel on top of the knee bolster) and you will see the relay block, the relay location is listed on the backside of the knee bolster.
Rectangle Font Signage Number Parallel


# 8 is the knee bolster (referred to as "Cover, steering column lower, #7 is the smaller panel on top which is just clipped in.
Rectangle Font Slope Parallel Pattern


All noise is caused by vibration, "NVH" (Noise/Vibration/Harshness) is one of the most difficult things to locate/diagnose on a vehicle since noise travels and it may not actually be coming from where you think you hear it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Hi, I sent an email about the headlight module, I got a response they are in the office for awhile. I haven't sent pictures because I'm working on another problem right now. Last week I was driving and all of a sudden it started running really rough and almost stalled and when I stepped on the gas it was making a rattling noise.

Then codes came up for the throttle position sensor and for the pcv valve. So I'm waiting on those to come in tomorrow. Also fixing a couple vacuum hoses that are not very good. After this, I will get back to the other stuff. Thank you for your help. Very nice to have someone so knowledgeable to ask questions to. 😸
 

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If you need more help, have questions/concerns Please feel free to ask.
 

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Question...
Where did you find a TPS for your car?
I would hate to see you get the incorrect part which would create other issues.

The TPS for a 90 Daytona 2.2L VNT/2.5L Turbo 1 is discontinued and not available in the aftermarket.
I was looking for one last year and the older aftermarket (NOS = New, Old Stock) TPS's were incorrect for the application even though the Mopar part # crossed to that particular sensor.
The issue was either the design was incorrect (physically) or the closed throttle voltage was too high (Internally not correct) which creates idle issues.

The Mopar part # for the TPS is, 5276011
Font Parallel Pattern Rectangle Number


If you cannot find the correct TPS "Marty Mopar" (Member of this site for years) has 12 used ones for sale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Hello, I got it at Auto Zone, it said it fit my car, but I guess I'll have to check it further?
I was coming here to ask you if you know what could be making it not start. Last time it started is when moving out out of the driveway and had a hard time doing that esp. in reverse. After that it would not start again. When I moved it i smelled gas, but not when trying you start it seems like it isn't getting gas, but not sure. Yeah after changed the throttle sensor and the map sensor and pcv valve, it still won't start, seems like it wants to, but doesn't. It is street sweeping today and I'm going to have to move it, so I figure I'd have it towed to a repair shop if I can't get it started before they come. I have until about 2 CA time.
Any suggestions, in the meantime I'm going to see the part number on the tps . I'll send it to you.
 
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