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If you smell fuel and the plugs are fouled and the oil is fuel diluted (smell the dipstick) then the car is flooded and will not start until the plugs have been cleaned/replaced after the cause of the no start condition is determined. Running that rich can be caused by numerous things.
If the engine is flooded I always recommend to unplug the fuel pump connector at the tank so you do not flood the engine more while performing diagnostics.

Are there any fault codes stored in memory?
Clear the codes, be sure they cleared, crank the engine 7-10 seconds and recheck codes.
Did any codes return?

If you still have your old TPS and MAP Sensor put those back on to eliminate a faulty/wrong part as the cause. (Keep in mind if the plugs are fouled the car may still not start)

If none of the above are the issue here are the "No Start" diagnostics, hope they help and hope you can get the car moved in time.
 

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1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
The codes got cleared when I had the battery disconnected. No need one came up. I didn't get it moved in time, I got a ticket. 🥴 But got it towed Monday should hear from the shop today?
I did find the correct TPS sensor on eBay. It has the number you gave me, there are a few more of you need one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
I'm having the shop fix everything (I hope) checking and replacing any bad vacuum lines, the ac/heater prob. putting that piece the guy left out back in, the wiper blade. I doubt the headlights but who knows, maybe??
The new correct tps should be here Saturday.
I'll let you know what happens. 🤞
 

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Sorry about your ticket.

Keep me posted and let me know if the shop encounters any problems or suggests something to you that does not seem right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Hi, I just heard from the shop. They got it started, but I guess it was sounding funny. He died a compression check and the first 2 cylinders only had about 25 lbs and the other 2 had over 100 lbs. (I don't remember the exact numbers he said.)
Anyway he said he asked his rebuilder and the guy said he wouldn't touch it. But he said he found a rebuilt, same exact motor, no miles on it and 3 year guarantee. He said the motor it 1600.00 and would be here in about 5 days. Total for motor and putting it in here said about 3400.00. I guess I'm doing it, I love my car and I don't want a different car, plus it would cost more and all the money I've spent on this one would be wasted. I've had it 1 year now, paid 8500.00 plus 1500.00 shipping and all the work and things I've replaced.
Do you agree? Do you think that a fair price for the motor? Sounds fair to me, I think. 🥴
 

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Without seeing the car (you are on the wrong coast) it will hard to give you exact answers.
Did you have engine running issues such as a severely rough idle, misfire, blue or black smoke before the no start issue?
Also, if the cylinder walls in cylinders 1 and 2 were washed down by fuel (running excessively rich or flooded trying to start the car) it may/will affect compression readings.
You may want to ask him to run a "Cylinder Leakdown Test" which will show you where the loss of compression is coming from.

As far as the replacement engine, does he know this is a 2.2L Intercooled VNT which was only used in the 89 Shadow Shelby CSX (500 Produced by Shelby Enterprises, these are Numbered Cars) and 90 Daytona/Lebaron/Shadow with only 900 VNT's being produced (536 were Daytona's) and that this engine is NOT a 2.5L?
Also, the 89 2.2L Turbo II engine is NOT the same as the 90 2.2L VNT, neither the 89 T-II nor the 2.5L Turbo I engines are interchangeable with the 90 2.2L VNT electronics.
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You may also want to ask about hypotheticals such as if parts break that are not readily available in the aftermarket during the R+I of the engine so there are no surprises.
Things that come to mind are...
Vacuum Lines if you still have the Factory Plastic Vacuum Harness, splicing lines only leads to other issues.
Engine Mounts - Aftermarket Mounts are Trash, you would want Poly or Poly Hybrid Mounts.
Shifter and Clutch Cables if the trans is being removed with the engine.
Turbo Oil and Coolant Lines

If you get this done and since the engine is coming out, this is the time to replace the clutch if it is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Hi, well the engine wasn't the correct one. Then he told me he found another one, those one also wasn't correct. Then he told me he found someone who will rebuild it. But he has to take the engine out and send it to him and then he will see what parts are needed??? I don't feel real comfortable with this for some reason? I'm getting really tired of all this waiting, I want my car back.
Yes, I wish you were here to fix it for me!! If you would I would pay for your flights, lodging and of course the repairs. 🥴😏

I will call right now and tell them about there other test you suggested. But yes since I got the car there has been a whitish blue smoke that would come out when I would take off. Not all the time, it seemed to happen more when I would have to wait longer for a light and if I had the clutch in vs in neutral with the brake on.
But it ran fine, and the idle was fine, until all of a sudden that day it started running really bad. It was one second fine, next second don't know what happened!!
(PS let me know if you would consider taking a trip to Calif., I know I'm just wishful thinking, but had to ask, lol.)
 

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I'm gonna chip in ad say 16 hun for a rebuilt motor is a really good price

it's a 1991 price by my standards ..what I used to pay for one ..I bought 6 over the first half of the 90's
if you can get it and install it yourself .. it's definitely a fair price ..+you get to keep your old motor to rebuild ..later unless the 16 hun doesn't include a core charge
 

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Thank You for the offer and confidence in my abilities, unfortunately a trip to California is not conceivable and my specialty is/was in diagnostics, not engine rebuilding. I retired 4 years ago and no longer work on cars except my own when I absolutely have to. (maybe some small electrical or easy A/C work (topping off refrigerant) for family), I struggle to work on my own car at times.
My HVAC stopped blowing from the panel and my old body cannot get under the dash to physically remove the upper mode door actuator on the heater box to see if the actuator and/or mode door is broken (I could only get as far as reaching the vacuum lines on the upper mode door actuator, air only comes from defrost and floor and I am going to have to live with it.
My suggestion would be to go to the regional forums section and open a thread in the California Sub-Forum, also, open a thread in the "Lounge", you may get lucky and someone is living nearby, willing to travel to you or knows somebody that is knowledgeable on these cars that is nearby, you can also check to see if there is a chapter of the SDAC (Shelby Dodge Auto Club) in your area and if so maybe they can help by recommending someone.

On to your car...
He is saying the engine is bad, it may very well be, there are a few things you will need to know to verify this and it would be nice if he could supply you with the actual #'s.
1)Engine Compression
Engine Compression is the engine's ability to create/produce pressure, normal compression is a minimum of 100 PSI with no more than a 25% variance between cylinders.
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2)Cylinder Leakdown Test
The Cylinder Leakdown test shows the engines ability to hold pressure.
Each cylinder is brought to TDC on a compression stroke (both valves closed) and holding the crankshaft stationary so the piston remains at TDC during the test (when air is applied the piston wants to move down to the bottom of the stroke)
100 PSI of air is applied to each cylinder, there should not be more than a 10-15 % loss of pressure on each cylinder, except for the rings, that could be as much as 25%.
When the air is applied to the cylinder you watch the two gauges, one gauge is the PSI of the air entering the cylinder, which is adjustable, the other gauge shows how much pressure the cylinder is actually holding. You will also be listening for air escaping, you remove the oil fill cap, radiator cap and air intake hoses from the throttle body.
Air escaping from the...
a)Oil Filler Cap Opening is air escaping past the piston rings, some air escaping past the rings is normal.
b)Throttle Body is air escaping past an intake valve
c)Out Of The Tailpipe is air escaping past an exhaust valve
(Lower compression and air escaping past both the intake and exhaust valves could be an indication of incorrect cam timing)
d)Radiator is air entering the cooling system due to a headgasket sealing issue, cracked head or block, the coolant will bubble from the air entering the cooling system.
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3)Spark Plug Condition
The spark plugs are your window into what is actually happening in each cylinder.
a)Are the spark plugs fouled? If Yes...
b)Are they all fouled or only 1 or two?
c)What type of fouling is it?
4)Blowby/Oil In The Air Cleaner Housing
If there is blowby (smoke coming from the oil filler cap opening in the valve cover with the engine running) or lots of oil in the air cleaner housing that is an indication of worn/damaged piston rings.
5)Turbo
Oil in the air cleaner housing along with oil in the charge pipes (From turbo to intercooler, intercooler to TB) or throttle body indicates faulty seals in the turbo.
This can also cause smoking and/or fouled spark plugs, oil entering the cylinders and fouled plugs will cause the engine to run very poorly.
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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
The compression on the first 2 cylinders was something like 15 or 20 and the other 2 we're about 100, I think he said? There was a big difference, can't remember the exact numbers.

I had just had the wires and plugs changed maybe 6 months ago and the plugs were fouled (they were dirty, don't remember what they guy said).

Had three car since May of last year, when I got it the was white stuff coming out the back when I took off. Has been doing this the whole time, sometimes was worse than others.

I'm wondering if something I did made this happen? I was reading and saw that adding Marvel Mystery Oil cleans your engine. I thought it might help get rid of the white smoke, so I added some. Could this maybe clean it too good to cause the low compression? Because even though the smoke was there, there car still ran fine until that day.
Gosh, I hope I didn't cause it, I'm sure it would of happened anyway, maybe just not so soon?? 🥴

I've already been without it over a month and I'm probably looking at another month (hopefully less and NOT MORE!) before I get it back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Oh yeah, when I changed the air filter a couple weeks before it broke down, it was really oily.

PS - I was halfway kidding when I asked, I knew most likely you wouldn't, but had to try. Lol.
You know so much about these cars. Maybe you could just supervise? Lol.
Thank you for all of your help, I really do appreciate it.

I'll let you know if and when I ever get my car back how it went.
 

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I certainly hope the Daytona is not your only ride.

I am not an advocate of additives, to me they are "snake oil" and on numerous occasions (After I went to Autozone as a Commercial Sales Manager in 2012) I have contacted additive manufacturers (Gasoline, Oil, Antifreeze) asking what are the additives in the product that are not already in motor oil or gasoline and all I get back is product propaganda, seems that some of the chemicals used are corporate secrets or there is nothing special, the chemical lists you can see online are chemicals/detergents already found in all gasolines/oils.
The only folks that answered my questions completely and thoroughly was "Peak Antifreeze" and those questions pertained to the Universal Coolant and weather it met the G-05 requirements for European vehicles.
Chrysler and GM do recommend using a fuel additive in the tank if there is an issue with deposits, however, do any really work as advertised?
There are plenty of real world video's on YouTube that say no.
This is a TSB that was sent out to all Chrysler dealerships.
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Now onto your problem.
If compression is low on cylinders 1 and 2 (which are adjacent cylinders) your issue sounds like it could be a head gasket.
If the headgasket fire rings are blown between 2 adjacent cylinders you will have a loss of compression.
If a headgasket blows where it seals the water jacket you will have loss of coolant, overheating, white smoke (that smells like antifreeze), coolant in the oil (oil turns white and may also be present on the oil fill cap)
A Cylinder Leakdown Test would help pinpoint the actual issue.
Here are two pics of headgasket issues, the first (from the internet) is blown between 2 cylinders, this will cause a loss of compression.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Gas Audio equipment

The second is from my car and blew at the water jacket sealing and damaged the fire ring on cylinder 1, this was due to prolonged driving while in overboost shutdown, this will not cause a loss of compression.
Paint Automotive lighting Wood Art Tints and shades


If it is a headgasket the cylinder head must be removed, it is always recommended to send the cylinder head to a machine shop to have it checked for warpage and/or cracks.
The only PITA part of removing the cylinder head is that the head/manifolds/turbo all need to be removed as one unit and old things break taking them apart, nothing that cannot be purchased at your local parts store or online.
You either need a couple of strong guys or an engine hoist to lift the head out and reinstall.

Again, if you can find a TD member (or SDAC member) close by that has mechanical experience on these cars and is willing to look at the car...
 
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