[mike_candell]

Greetings! I am looking for the OEM part number for the body module / ECU. 1993 3.0L base model, automatic.
This is the one in the passenger side kick panel.
OR, looking fora working one to purchase. thanks in advance.

mike

 

[NAJ]

Welcome To TD!!!
What model vehicle do you have, Daytona or LeBaron?
The BCM (Body Control Module) has no part numbers listed in the Chrysler Parts Catalog because these units were sent out for repair, not replaced with new units.

The part number should be on a tag/label on your BCM.

Do you have a Base or Premium BCM in your vehicle, you can tell by the number of wires going to the "Natural" colored connector, the "Base BCM" will only have about 10 wires at the "Natural" colored connector.

If you do not mind me asking...
Exactly what is the problem you are having that leads you to believe you need a BCM?

 

[mike_candell]

Welcome To TD!!!
What model vehicle do you have, Daytona or LeBaron?
The BCM (Body Control Module) has no part numbers listed in the Chrysler Parts Catalog because these units were sent out for repair, not replaced with new units.
View attachment 282477
The part number should be on a tag/label on your BCM.

Do you have a Base or Premium BCM in your vehicle, you can tell by the number of wires going to the "Natural" colored connector, the "Base BCM" will only have about 10 wires at the "Natural" colored connector.
View attachment 282475 View attachment 282476

If you do not mind me asking...
Exactly what is the problem you are having that leads you to believe you need a BCM?

Ooops, Forgot to add that it is a 1993 Daytona, 3.0L base, automatic. Cranks, no start, no codes. Sent to module to AES for repair. They are unable to repair because of corrosion. Once I get it back I will examine it myself.

 

[NAJ]

The BCM has nothing to do with the engine running, the BCM controls functions such as Auto Door Locks, Intermittent Wipers, Digital Dash, Overhead Console, Headlamp Doors/Functions.
The SBEC (Single Board Engine Controller) underhood controls all Fuel and Ignition system functions.
Which did you send out for repair?

 

[mike_candell]

The BCM

 

[NAJ]

Would you like to diagnose your "cranks but will not start" condition?

 

[marty mopar]

SINGLE BOARD ENGINE CONTROLLER
NOTE: RFI=RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION
04672338 G 2.2 Eng., 16 Valve, w/o RFI, EUROPE
04672330 G 2.2 Eng., 16 Valve, w/RFI, EUROPE
04672283 G 2.2 Eng., 16-Valve, Man. Trans., w/RFI
04639557 G 2.5 Eng. Auto. Trans., w/o RFI
04672210 G 2.5 Eng., Auto. Trans., w/RFI, Calif.
04639558 G 2.5 Eng., Auto. Trans., w/o RFI, Calif.
04672211 G 2.5 Eng., Auto. Trans., w/RFI, TAIWAN
04672194 G 2.5 Eng., Auto. Trans., w/o RFI, TAIWAN
04639554 G 2.5 Eng., Man. Trans., w/o RFI
04672212 G 2.5 Eng., Man. Trans., w/RFI

04686309 G 3.0 Eng., Man. Trans., w/o RFI
04686321 G 3.0 Eng., Man. Trans., w/RFI
04686310 G 3.0 Eng., Man. Trans., w/o RFI, EUROPE
04686322 G 3.0 Eng., Man. Trans., w/RFI, EUROPE
04686631 G 3.0 Eng., Auto. Trans., w/o RFI
04686318 G 3.0 Eng., Auto. Trans., w/RFI, Calif.

2 COVER, Insulator (Serv. w/Headlamp & Dash Wiring)
3 04419492 INSULATOR, S.B.E.C.

 

[mike_candell]

Would you like to diagnose your "cranks but will not start" condition?

Yes, There are no codes displayed at all with the key dance. Not even 55 end of test..
Prior to this the engine would start run fine, but occasionally it would just stop after 15 or 20 minutes. It would restart fine.
Others have suggested the HEP. I am lost.

 

[NAJ]

3.0L engine does not have a HEP, it uses an "Optical Distributor".
No worries, we will get your car running again, I will post the diagnostics as soon as I am able to, later today or tomorrow.

 

[d_snook6]

3.0 hep are very reliable, could be a ground wire issue though. First I would do is figure out if your engine light issue and why you can’t pull codes. Naj will help you just follow his steps and don’t change parts yet.

 

[NAJ]

Here are the No Start Diagnostics for a 3.0L Engine.
You have to determine if the issue is Ignition, Fuel, Engine Mechanical.
You will need a digital multi-meter, 12 volt test lamp, jumper wires, etc.
You will be directed by the flow chart to connect the DRBII to the diagnostic connector, there are ways around most of this if you do not have an OBD1 scan tool.
If you have spark and get to the NS2 (Fuel System) pages you will need a fuel pressure gauge, you can rent one for free at AutoZone. (You leave a deposit and it is fully refunded when you return the tool)

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-fuel-pump-diagnostic-kit

If you run into any problems or need help/info post back, I will not be home until Monday so I may not see your response right away.
CHECKING THE IGNITION SYSTEM

 

[NAJ]

CHECKING THE FUEL SYSTEM

CHECKING ENGINE MECHANICAL

 

[mike_candell]

Thanks for the wealth of information. I will be looking into these. I will post results.

 

[mark monte]

Sometimes a wealth of information can be a little overwhelming, even though we are all eager to help.
The basics are as easy as ABC, that is:a. air, b. fuel, and c. spark. It is good that it cranks. That's a good start.
The ECU will turn off the fuel pump if it does not detect a spark, so start with that. See if the ignition is working. When a fuel pump goes bad it can happen with no prior warning, and it also will not throw a code. Check the fuses. Spray some starting fluid into the intake, or on the air filter inlet. I sometimes use a drip of raw gas (because the starting fluid is so explosive that it can scuff the pistons, etc.) And No DTCs at all? Check the plug to your ECU, make sure it is secure. The plug can come loose, it happened to me once, and I was too embarassed I to admit it.to anyone (until now.)

 

[mike_candell]

I began the trouble shooting process, did not get too far. I tried to follow the steps in NS-1A. Since I don't have a DRBII, I only got to step 5/6 in the troubleshooting chart. Then it started to rain. I will delve back in later and look for loose connectors. I don't know if there is a rental source for DRB-2. Might there be anyone in the Annapolis, MD area that could lend assistance? Willing to compensate you for your time.

 

[NAJ]

When the flow chart states, "put the DRBII in "ohmmeter" or "voltmeter" mode you use an external multi-meter.
When possible you always want to backprobe a connector/terminal so you do not damage the contact end of the terminal. You can use paper clips as backprobe pins, just do not allow them to touch each other if connected to a - and +, you will need a couple of alligator clips for your meter probes or to connect jumper wires.
Examples of backprobing a circuit/component...

Pre-1991 the diagnostic connector also housed the DB/YL wire for the ASD which made manually actuating really simple, Chrysler removed that wire from the diagnostic connector starting in 91.
Example of jumper wires/alligator clips...

Here are two inexpensive multimeters if you do not already own one, when I was still working in the field I used meters that cost more only because I used it constantly and had to be sure it would work when I needed it, now that I am retired $10.00 meters around the house are fine.

Dorman Products - 85357

Digital Multi-Tester Tool

www.dormanproducts.com

7 Function Digital Multimeter

Amazing deals on this at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

You can also get a meter at Walmart/Lowes/Home Depot/Local Parts Suppliers

As far as scanners, any OBD1 scanner will work as long as you have the proper cables/software...
DRBII, Snap On MT2500, OTC Monitor 4000e...

The flow chart has you starting with...
1)Fault codes, if none are present...
2)Does the vehicle have spark?
a)From a spark plug cable to ground?
If no...
b)From the coil secondary wire to ground?
If no...
c)Measure the resistance of the coil secondary wire, is it in specs? (below 15K Ohms)
If OK...
d)Remove the distributor cap, crank the engine and watch the rotor, is the rotor spinning?
If no...Replace the timing belt.
If yes...
e)Reinstall the distributor cap, remove the coil connector, actuate the ASD Relay.
***You can manually actuate the ASD Relay, on 91 and up you have to do this at the relay itself.
Locate the relay, backprobe the DB/YL wire, or, tap into the DB/YL wire under the PDC with a jumper wire and connect the other end of the jumper to a known good ground, then turn the key on.
The ASD relay should be located in the underhood PDC on G/J body, all other body styles the relay is attached to the fender well underhood.

You can also just use a Fused Jumper to jump from an ASD power feed (RD/WT) to the ASD output terminal. (DG/BK)

f)***With the ASD actuated check for voltage on the BK/GY or GY wire, is the voltage above 10 volts?
(***This makes no sense to me since the BK/GY or GY wire is the coil control circuit, constant power comes to the + coil terminal (DG/BK) from the ASD relay, with the connector plugged in and the key on/engine off there should be battery voltage on both terminals)

This takes you to Page 45 and depending on your answers depends where the flow chart will take you.
If you get lost or are not sure how to proceed please post back.

You can try posting here for local help, has not been a new post in this section for 7 years.

Maryland/DC

www.turbododge.com

 

[mike_candell]

This helps greatly. I have a voltmeter, that's it. I will continue my search for a DRB-II or OBD1. More to come.

 

[xatel75595]

Nice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk