I am going to tell you as much as I know about the car to help pinpoint the causes" I am having. I apologize for this being so long. Well for starters I just bought this car, and on the test drive everything seemed ok until I got it home. I drove this car about 165 miles back to my place non stop on the highway on a cool day, and when I finally had to stop at a light getting off the freeway as I was slowing down I noticed that around 50 MPH the tach would jump up and down when downshifting, not Spastically but enough to notice. It always does this at about 45 to 50 even if I just let off the gas and coast it will bob up and down. the other problem is when I just about come to a full stop you can here the tranny downshifting and at the last second the car comes to an abrupt stop followed buy this kind of surging like sound and then the car will move forward. It gets worse the more I drive, I usually think it will die but it doesn't. It idles really high on startup and when stopped and seems to idle higher the more you drive. I even noticed when I let off the accelerator it will move forward like you just pressed on the gas to accelerate, it will even shift through the first gear without your foot even being near the gas pedal if I let this continue it will just gradually go faster. On top of all that the car seems to almost overheat. I checked the radiator for oil and saw none as well as the overflow tank and none there; radiator was replaced sometime before I acquired this vehicle. When driving the temp gauge is usually just below half, if I stand still in traffic gauge rises and keeps going, but when moving it will slowly drop back down. I was looking for a EGR valve and went to a Dodge dealership to get the part and when I pulled into there service garage and got out I turned around to see antifreeze was gushing out of the overflow tank and BOILING!!!! OH GREAT!!!!! Luckily it still drives, this happened to me twice the second time it wasn't so bad. All the work that has been done to this car since I acquired it has been new front and rear valve cover gaskets, they were leaking pretty bad, new EGR valve, before it was running poorly and idle was low and spastic as well as the high idle which IT STILL DOES!!!! New plugs and wires all hooked up correctly. Could it be degraded tranny fluid and or computer update? A new thermostat? Sensor or fan relay? VACCUME LEAK!!!!!!! I am seriously at a total loss with this; any help would be much appreciated. If you need to know this is an automatic, I really like this car and don't want to give up on it. Thanks to all who respond!
1993 Dodge Daytona IROC issues PLEASE HELP!!!
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for the running hot see if the fan is pulling strong when it is hot. These thin fans will work good cold but the hotter they get they start to slow down and won't pull enough air to cool the engine. I have had 2 do this in my lebaron 3.0. Hard to diagnois unless it is boiling over since it is always working good when its not boiling over. Let them sit 15 minutes and they pull good air again.
High idle check for vacuum leaks and clean the AIS motor.
Tim
High idle check for vacuum leaks and clean the AIS motor.
Tim
I actually am not to sure if it does kick in, most other cars that I have driven when it does start up the car kinda shudders when it comes on, and mine doesn't do that. If I turn on the AC the fan kicks in, no CHECK ENGINE light, and no fault codes although I haven’t tried to pull up any codes, is there any way I can get a reading without an under the dash plug-in computer, I forget what those things are called. Also my black air box has two small rubber hoses on the passenger side the top one goes into the top of the valve cover and the bottom one goes where? Is it supposed to hang down without anything attached to the other end? Or did I goof up and hook it back up wrong? Also Before I forget where should I check for vac leaks?
I as of just a few seconds ago just found out that I have a broken motor mount on the drivers side, and it looks like it's breaking apart and large chunks are missing. The engine also seems to tilt when selecting R,N,D,3 and if this helps at all, in my first post I forgot to mention that the overdrive still works if that helps or not. There also is a slit down the rubber hose that comes from the top valve cover into the top of the engine "ON THE FRONT" the slit is at the very end where it meets, there seems to be a blockage of oil at the part that's on top of the engine, I'm assuming that's oil. Again I am trying to give as much info as I can Thanks!
Those 2 lines are for the PCV system. one goes to the valve cover, & the other goes where you said. Just look at all the hoses under the hood for leaks. To check for fault codes, turn the key on-off-on-off-on, without starting the engine. Then, watch the check engine light for a sequence of flashes. If, for example, it blinks 1-2-5-5 (1 blink, pause, 2 blinks, longer pause, 5 blinks, pause, 5 blinks) that would indicate code 12. 55 always means end of sequence, so if all you have is 55, there are no codes stored. Get some throttle body cleaner & spray it into the throttle body to clean all the carbon out. You can remove the AIS motor to clean it more thoroughly, too.
I didn't see your last post before typing. The engine will move a lot with a bad motor mount. Replace it & you might be surprised what a difference it makes. What do you mean by the top valve cover? The plenum? I guess I can't picture which hose you are referring to. Replace it & check for more leaks.
Ok I've verified that the fan does work as it should, Coolant looks fine, I changed the engine temp sensor and that little sensor that sits on the other side of the thermostat. I'm pretty sure there is no head gasket leek, no oil in the antifreeze no leeking of any oil. Only thing that happens is when I drive it for a certain amount of time, if I stop and turn the car off it will puke antifreeze out of overflow tank. I havent changed the thermostat yet, I'll be doing that tomorrow. Any other suggestions?
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If its puking coolant after you shut it off check the radiator cap to make sure its good and not letting it puke at 4 psi. Where is the temp gauge before you shut it off when it pukes?
Is the fan motor in the car about 6 or 7 inches in diameter and about 2 to 3 inches thick. Or is it about 4 inches in diameter and about 6 inches long?
A leaking head gasket will not always cause coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant. If the gasket is blown between the coolant and combustion oil and coolant mixing will not happen.
Tim
It will start puking antifreeze when it just about gets to the third block on gauge. As for the motor size I don't know I can go messure it to see, if this helps I have the fan that has the tall skinny overflow bottle mounted on the left side of the fan housing. I also replaced the thermostat and it still gets hot, I think i'm running out of options here.
Well I just went out to install the fan that I had picked up at the boneyards and that was a success the bad news is that I went to start up the car and I walked back to check the exhaust just to see if it was indeed puffing white smoke and yes it was, there was even a clear liquid that dripped out as it ran that's not good is it. I would have to assume head gasket leak? You can also here air when you open the radiator cap, or is that just the cooling system pressure?:bang head:bang head:bang head
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A little clear water out the exhaust pipe is normal. This is part of the catalytic converter(catcon) function. If it's below a certain temp outside, there will be steam coming out the muffler from the water evaporating, then condensing outside the exhaust outlet. If there is/was a HG leak causing antifreeze to get in the combustion chambers, you'd DEFINITELY smell it out the pipe. It's best described as a sweet, but repulsive odor. If you want to know exactly what to smell for, put a little AF in an old bean can, then heat it with a propane torch.
The HGs on the 2.2/2.5L cars were a funny bunch. Mine blew at 98,000, and never overheated. I ran the car fine on a Saturday, sat all day Sunday, Monday morning, hydrolock city.
The HGs on the 2.2/2.5L cars were a funny bunch. Mine blew at 98,000, and never overheated. I ran the car fine on a Saturday, sat all day Sunday, Monday morning, hydrolock city.
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Be sure the coolant is actually flowing thru the system, in my years as a Chrysler Tech I have seen a few time were the impellors on the water pump just rot away and all you have is a spinning disc. Unfortunatly on the 3.0L the water pump is driven by the timing belt so it is not that easy to remove and inspect but it is still easier than removing the heads.
Besides if you are going to end up pulling the heads you will want to replace the timing belt and water pump while you are there.
Also do not assume that because the rad was replaced that it is not restricted.
If the pump is good, try using a Prestone Flush Kit and a Liquid Chemical Flush.
What condition was the coolant in or was it just recently changed leading to the assumption someone was already looking into this overheating condition.
Besides if you are going to end up pulling the heads you will want to replace the timing belt and water pump while you are there.
Also do not assume that because the rad was replaced that it is not restricted.
If the pump is good, try using a Prestone Flush Kit and a Liquid Chemical Flush.
What condition was the coolant in or was it just recently changed leading to the assumption someone was already looking into this overheating condition.
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