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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok i have a few questions that need answering about my 87 LeBaron 2.2L turbo TI.

1st off, As of right now i have a TI with the good old pull through turbo setup (AKA total junk).

What i am wanting to do is to swap a 1 piece intake from my 2.5L TI (that i am currently building) onto my LeBaron. I would also like to run a FMIC along with that. My question right now is will the new intake need anything to be done to it will work?

Another question i have is what would cause my car to run rich, i got error 51 which is to much fuel?

What it will do is idle weird, runs rough after going into boost, diesels alittle after shutoff, and will buck when at full throtle (it has been doing it less sence I replaced all vacuum lines.)

But also i found a vacuum line that had been broken but i can't find were it had originally belonged to. (not sure if that could be adding to the problem)

let me know what you guys think
 

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swapping the '88+ 'one-piece' intake manifold requires using the later TB which has a 4-wire AIS...
this requires an electronics upgrade to a '88+ TI or '86-9 TII calibration,

which is basicaly a "TII conversion", a subject well documented here... see e.g. 'sticky'

a broken/unhooked vacuum line can certainly cause driveability issues,
since the MAP, FPR, etc rely on a 'true' vacuum signal to e.g. meter the right amount of fuel
 

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there should be a vacuum diagram under the hood panel, or if you have a haynes manual. that should help track down the missing connection. i think naj has all those diagrams if you cant find them elsewhere.
 

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R.I.P Dennis Jarvis
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R.I.P Dennis Jarvis
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I think your the one that pointed it out to me, then I found out the only thing I needed was to add an intercooler and charge air sensor!
 

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ok i have a few questions that need answering about my 87 LeBaron 2.2L turbo TI.

1st off, As of right now i have a TI with the good old pull through turbo setup (AKA total junk).

What i am wanting to do is to swap a 1 piece intake from my 2.5L TI (that i am currently building) onto my LeBaron. I would also like to run a FMIC along with that. My question right now is will the new intake need anything to be done to it will work?

Another question i have is what would cause my car to run rich, i got error 51 which is to much fuel?

What it will do is idle weird, runs rough after going into boost, diesels alittle after shutoff, and will buck when at full throtle (it has been doing it less sence I replaced all vacuum lines.)

But also i found a vacuum line that had been broken but i can't find were it had originally belonged to. (not sure if that could be adding to the problem)

let me know what you guys think
log motor total junk???? o.k good luck in the future.:shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So even if i were to swap in a FWD performance stage 2 computer i would still need to do all the wiring if i wanted the 88+ 1 piece?

Also thanks for the diagram Dennis. I was looking at it and it looks to me that im missing the waste gate solenoid, could that be a problem?
 

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I already answered that

swapping the '88+ 'one-piece' intake manifold requires using the later TB which has a 4-wire AIS...
this requires an electronics upgrade to a '88+ TI or '86-9 TII calibration,

which is basicaly a "TII conversion", a subject well documented here... see e.g. 'sticky'
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
log motor total junk???? o.k good luck in the future.:shrug:
The reason i say this is because it runs with no IC, and the throttle body is the size of a quarter (WTF). I love the motor, but i dont like how my turbo setup is. And that's why im switching over

but aside for that thank you for your help detobias, and Dennis
 

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you as the owner of the car can still make great reliable power with a log motor. no intercooler? add one, there are /were several options for sale on the forum to make a log motor intercooled. small throttle body? i run/ran that same throttle body on my charger, it ran consistant 13.0s in the 1/4 mile on just the motor, 12.50's when added the bottle.you can change the throttle body as well to the newer style, just need to fab up some stuff to make it work. i'm not by any means knocking you for up grading, we all need/do upgrades, upgrades are good, but no need to knock the design that lead us to where we are as a whole in terms of t2 and t3's without the log setup, where would our platform have been?
 

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ok i have a few questions that need answering about my 87 LeBaron 2.2L turbo TI.


Another question i have is what would cause my car to run rich, i got error 51 which is to much fuel?

What it will do is idle weird, runs rough after going into boost, diesels alittle after shutoff, and will buck when at full throtle (it has been doing it less sence I replaced all vacuum lines.)

First off you are backwards.
Code 51 is "Lean Exhaust Indication" which means the O2 Signal is latched below .450 volts(Lean) and the controllers fuel corrections cannot rectify the problem.
Anything that will create a "lean" condition can cause this...
Low Fuel Pressure, Map Circuit Issues(especially if vacuum is trapped in the line and not being bled off on shutdown), O2 Sensor Circuit Issues, Exhaust Leak before the O2 Sensor, etc.
A vacuum leak causing this is highly unlikely because the vacuum systems on these cars are central so a vacuum leak will affect all 4 cylinders, the controller thru Map Output Voltage will see the additional air, add more fuel and idle speed will increase with no other symptoms.
If the Map loses vacuum that would create a "Rich" condition and a Code 13 and 52 would be present.
Lack of vacuum to the Map = more air present = longer injector pulse width.

Secondly it is near impossible for an Electronic Fuel Injected vehicle to "Deisel" because all fuel is cut instantly with key off.
The only way his can happen is if you have leaking injectors or power and ground are still being supplied to the injectors with the key off.
The ASD Relay powers the injectors and fuel pump and as soon as the controller no longer see's a Crank Signal from the HEP all power to the Fuel Pump, + Coil, Injectors is cut off.

Your "Bucking" @ WOT sounds like "Overboost" shutdown which would have been caused by the Wastegate Solenoid vacuum/pressure source not being connected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
were could i find one of these waste gate solenoids?

and i think my "dieseling" is just my car idling bad when i shut her off, Im sure once i fix the problem that it will sound fine.

also im hearing a jinging noise coming from my exhaust and i am experiencing bad bogging when i get past 3000rpms. could this be a clogged cat, somingthing with ingnition, fuek idk?
 

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The bogging after 3000 RPM's could be anything, diagnostics are needed to pinpoint the problem(s)
If the Cat is rattling then it needs to be replaced.
If you get under there and kick it, hit it with a rubber mallet and it rattles it's done.

Why do you need a Wastergate Solenoid?
Is it missing/faulty or just not connected electrically/vacuum?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ok change in story agian, so now im only reading code 13 (map) and i am running extremely rich like 12-10:1 when im off the gas but when i floor it it reads im going lean and then it starts bucking
 

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You have probably lost your vacuum source to the Baro solenoid or from Baro to Map.
The factory lines have the Map and FPR using the same vacuum source so you have to verify vacuum to the Map and check all lines associated with the Map.
The line could be cracked/split/broken/disconnected/loose.

Map is dominent fuel control.
Code 13 is...
No change in Map voltage from key on to engine start...
or
Map voltage does not equal throttle position.

You would be rich under vacuum conditions and lean under boost conditions.
The controller would not see vacuum, this means its see's more air and adds fuel.
The controller would not see boost so no additional fuel would be added.

CODE 13 DIAGNOSTICS
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/344296-code-13-diagnostics.html


 

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I havs the same motor. When my car bucked at full throttle it turned out to be the wastegate solenoid. I ended up just bypassing it completely and put a manual boost controller in its place.
 
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