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Discussion Starter #1
Hey so I’ve looked for awhile on here and can’t find the info I’m looking for. I’m going to be putting a rebuilt head back on my 89 spirit 2.5 turbo. I’m looking for tips and specs on putting it back together, torque specs, torque pattern, setting timing, ect... any info will be helpful
 

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Welcome To TD!!!

Make sure you replace the head bolts, the head bolts are torque to yield one time use.

If you are replacing the thermostat be sure to drill an "1/8" hole in the flange and place the hole at the 12 o'clock position when installed.
This will help to alleviate air in the system and lessen "thermal shock" on the head when the t-stat opens.

Courtesy of Donavans Dodge Garage
turbo_25.jpg

Be sure to check and replace any tune up/maintenance items that need replacement while you are in there.
(Cap/Rotor/Wires/Plugs/Filters/Belts/Hoses/Fuel Injection Hose/Vacuum Line etc.)

Here is everything you need to know about replacing the cylinder head/gasket/timing belt/proper filling of the cooling system, etc.

ENGINE-2.2L-2.5L Cylinder Head 1.jpg

ENGINE-2.2L-2.5L Cylinder Head 2.jpg

ENGINE-2.2L-2.5L Stationary Bracket.jpg

ENGINE-2.2L-2.5L Timing Belt 1.jpg

ENGINE-2.2L-2.5L Timing Belt 2.jpg

ENGINE-2.2L-2.5L Timing Belt 3.jpg

ENGINE-2.2L-2.5L Timing Belt 4.jpg

Cooling System Drain and Refill 1.jpg

Cooling System Drain and Refill 2.jpg

89 Turbo 1 Vacuum.jpg

Easy To Understand Timing Belt Install/Align/Tension/Ignition Timing
https://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/359212-cam-timing-belt-tension-84-95-a.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you so much! I’m slightly nervous to do this but I’m going to just go slow. Is there anything specific to putting the head gasket on? Cleaning tips? I’m not even 100% sure what I’m asking but I don’t want to mess this up
 

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save the big washers off your old head bolts - you're gonna need 'em

get a helper to help lift the complete head intake and turbo back in and onto the motor

mark the ends of the head with a sharpie so you know where the dowel pin holes are
also mark the ends of the block to show the pin locations
it makes setting the head back on a little easier if you can see where "center" is from each end
this helps prevent grinding the head surface around on the raised pins

also if the dipstick tube will pull out , pull it out
if not don't force it as it will break off
instead make sure to wiggle the little bracket that secures the tube to the t-stat housing bolt
you want to loosen that little bracket enough to let it drop down the tube below the block deck height

this way the bracket doesn't get trapped between the head and block possibly ruining your new head gasket

and before you start to take the head to the car be sure to have one head bolt and washer handy on the rad cradle
this bolt goes into the FRONT center head bolt hole to hold the head in place and keep it from rocking backwards on the gasket

and if this is the first time , avoid the silly idea of putting the manifolds on after
"cause that ain't gonna happen"....
 

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What should the bolts for the intake manifold and exhaust manifold be torqued to?
Check NAJ's 2nd thumbnail.
You'll be doing the "4 step" torque turn...

And like Dr Johny said, install the head with the manifolds on as an assembly. You'll need a friend to help and place it exactly on top with no sliding.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK so it’s all back together and running great after a minor snafu of forgetting the front cam seal ?‍♂. What’s everyone’s opinion on retorquing the head bolts after 1 to 2 heat cycles? Is it necessary on this engine?
 

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no need your head bolts are "torque to yield "

thus they continue to "pull" down forever due to that 1/4 turn which has now stretched the bolts

this is kinda like an elastic band trying to go back to it's original size thus keeping the bundle tight
 

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OK so it’s all back together and running great after a minor snafu of forgetting the front cam seal ?‍♂. What’s everyone’s opinion on retorquing the head bolts after 1 to 2 heat cycles? Is it necessary on this engine?
And if you used a "Fel Pro Permatorque HG" then that is also a no to retorquing.

Very Happy to hear the job is done and all went well. :thumb:

You did ask a question about cleaning and I should have mentioned this in my first post.
download.jpg
When you clean the deck surface DO NOT USE a 3M Roloc Disc as the fine particles will get into the engine, mix with the oil and damage the rod/main bearings.
3mtm-roloctm-disc-pack-982s.jpg
These discs are made for cleaning engine parts that are off of the vehicle and can be thoroughly washed/rinsed after cleaning or for cleaning hub bearing flanges/ brake rotor hats, caliper slide/mounting areas or other areas where the particles will not mix with a fluid.

To clean an engine part on the car use the 3M Bristle Discs.
roloc-bristle-discs.jpg
 
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