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Discussion Starter #1
Hey!

So i just have a curiosity question here. I just got my 2.5 back together and it started up on my fwd performance stage 5 computer. Only problem was that it is an off the shelf purchase so I get shot with an Air charge sensor code, which I really think is what is causing my running problems. Ive researched into this to make sure I wasn't posting what has already been asked or done, but all I can find, is that there's no point in adding one for a t1, and to just get a correct tune.

I would like to know if I can add one for the time being, and if it would work without any issues. From my understanding the sensor uses BK/LB(cavity 4 of SMEC 60 pin connector) and BK/RD(cavity 21 of SMEC 60 pin connector) (courtesy of NAJ). I looked at my 60 pin and I have an available space on pin 21, and I already have a wire coming out of pin 4 which is the same, black and blue. Can I just pin into 21, and splice into 4 and have it work? Would I screw something else up that is already using pin 4?
Hope this isn't too long to read, but doing this would give me a weekend project. Just wanted to know if it was possible and worth while.

Thanks in advance!!
 

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If the cal is expecting it might as well add it or change the cal. What you suggested, is exactly the way to do it. You will not harm other sensors on the black/light blue wire. What did FWDP suggest?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If the cal is expecting it might as well add it or change the cal. What you suggested, is exactly the way to do it. You will not harm other sensors on the black/light blue wire. What did FWDP suggest?
Thanks!

I emailed them, but a bit too late into a Friday night for a reply. I imagine I will see if I can possibly get some kind of exchange for something more reasonable for the 2.5, we shall see. In the meantime it will give me something to do.

Thanks again!
 

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Too bad they're not open at the moment, they're nice to deal with on the phone.

Out of curiosity, how far from stock is this 2.5 on the stage 5 cal?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Too bad they're not open at the moment, they're nice to deal with on the phone.

Out of curiosity, how far from stock is this 2.5 on the stage 5 cal?
Forged Pistons, opened up exhaust, and all the needed stuff for the stage 5 to run. I still have a lot of work to do to get it to its full potential, so im not running the maximum boost. have it dialed back quite a but with a manual boost controller to keep things safe and reliable. Wnet for the stage 5 to leave room in the future for upgrades. Its definitely overkill for me right now considering my restrictive head, but should be fine
 

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the black with blue tracer wire is the sensor ground circut

if you look at the other sensors on the motor you'll note a black with blue tracer should run to most
- they are on a common ground meaning all those black with blue tracer wires splice together at one point , usually around the center of the run across the top of the firewall
from that splice the black & blue then runs back to the pin with the black and blue wire you saw already ..

so , if you add the missing pin and wire you only have to run that one for any distance
the black n blue can be spliced to the ground circut most anywhere
 

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Just to add some insight to your question.

I have had intermittent issues with the ACT Sensor circuit on my car for years and have never been able to locate the problem.

Used to be when I was bracket racing after the run the CEL would be illuminated, when I checked codes it was always a Code 23 ACT Sensor Circuit Voltage High or Low.
This happened after every pass and there was never a difference in the way the car ran or the cars performance.
As soon as I shut the car off and restarted the CEL was out until the next WOT pass.

I have replaced the sensor and pigtail and checked the circuit numerous times with a DVOM and scanner and have not been able to find anything wrong.

I have not raced in 8 years so I never gave it a second thought until we recently got cold weather and now upon starting first thing in the morning the CEL is illuminated, Code 23 stored in memory.
Does this every morning when it is cold and I drive to work with the CEL illuminated and the cars runs perfectly fine, does not miss a beat.

The point of this is that whatever your driveabilty issue is I highly doubt that the lack of an ACT Sensor in the circuit is the cause, that circuit just does not have the authority to create driveabilty issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just to add some insight to your question.

I have had intermittent issues with the ACT Sensor circuit on my car for years and have never been able to locate the problem.

Used to be when I was bracket racing after the run the CEL would be illuminated, when I checked codes it was always a Code 23 ACT Sensor Circuit Voltage High or Low.
This happened after every pass and there was never a difference in the way the car ran or the cars performance.
As soon as I shut the car off and restarted the CEL was out until the next WOT pass.

I have replaced the sensor and pigtail and checked the circuit numerous times with a DVOM and scanner and have not been able to find anything wrong.

I have not raced in 8 years so I never gave it a second thought until we recently got cold weather and now upon starting first thing in the morning the CEL is illuminated, Code 23 stored in memory.
Does this every morning when it is cold and I drive to work with the CEL illuminated and the cars runs perfectly fine, does not miss a beat.

The point of this is that whatever your driveabilty issue is I highly doubt that the lack of an ACT Sensor in the circuit is the cause, that circuit just does not have the authority to create driveabilty issues.
As for my issue, this was my thinking too. I have gone through all of my fuel pressure tests, map sensors, and everything else to try and figure out the problem. It seems to go lean under boost at half throttle too, but i'm going to check my valve timing as I have a funny feeling. The main reason I have a weird suspect of the ACT being a contributor is because of a post I found from about 10 years ago regarding a stage 5 computer, and an ECT light. Cindy had chimed in and said that the car would indeed "run like crap". Odds are that it does not contribute to my problem, but it put that bug in the back of my mind that is may be an issue.

I do appreciate the info!
 

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Ahh just checked out your build thread. That's a cool truck.

You said:
""My main issue here is my fuel pressure. I had this same problem a year or two back, and i'm not sure if i'm doing something wrong or not. When my pump primes, I get a solid 55 psi, but this is only with my adjustable fuel pressure regulator tightened down to its maximum. The pump is a newer 255, yet the same happened with my old pump. I tried to blocking of fuel lines on both supply and return but the fuel pressure drops immediately to 0 when the pump cuts out. From what I have read, this shouldn't happen and should take a few hours to gradually lose pressure.""

Have you followed this procedure step by step? It's saved my rear in the past.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358339-checking-fuel-pressure-84-93-turbo.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The regulator is a new one, but I had the problem before the new regulator also, which sorta made me rule it out. I went through and tried the "checking fuel pressure" steps to see where my problem might lie, and now my issue is blocking off the fuel lines. How is everyone doing it? I used a large set of vice grips and clamped down on the inlet hose, triggered the pump, and fuel pressure still got to the rail and then fell after turning off the pump. Then I tried a set of c-clamps to really get into it, and fuel pressure still got by, and proceeded to leak back down after disengaging the pump.... This happened on both the inlet and outlet fuel lines. I don't think i can get them fully closed by clamping, so im going to go out tomorrow and grab a check valve to throw in there. if that works, I'll know its probably the one in the pump thats off.

In other news, I managed to get the intake temp sensor installed and wired up. Engine light has gone away. On start up my af gauge is pegged lean, but im not sure if that's a warmup thing or something else. It goes to its regular 14-15 once there is some the in the engine, so im not all too worried about it. I don't think....

Ignoring the fact that the fuel pressure does not stay when its off, it does stay when its running, and builds with vacuum and such, so I took her around the block. Everything actually seems to be working fine. I didn't bring it past 5psi for breakin reasons, but fuel pressure gained, a/f ratios were looking good, and she seemed happy. I'm still going to try to get this fuel line test done, but my guess is the check valve in the pump. Not sure if the addition of the Air charge sensor made things run smoothly, but for now things look good.

Thanks again!
 
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