Turbo Dodge Forums banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1989 2.5 turbo that I'm rebuilding. I'm putting the stock bottom end in it but other than that I'd like to modify everything coming off of it for more power. I'm gonna have the head completely done(including beehive springs)and I want this thing to be as beast as it can be with stock internals. I'm gonna go with the walbro 255 and the stage 3 cam from fwd. Which injectors should I use? I'm gonna get the fuel rail from TU along with the adjustable regulator. Probably have the intake ported as well as the exhaust. I'm gonna keep the t-2 turbo thats on it(swapped from a 2.2 tII) and I'm putting an aluminum radiator and bigger FMIC. I'm gonna get the performance computer from fwd as well. stage 2 or 3 clutch kit and the lightened flywheel from TU. 3 inch exhaust all the way back. What else am I missing? any help is appreciated
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,495 Posts
What are your goals for the car? Is this going into the Daytona? Are you using the 89 1 piece T2 intake?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't know exactly what my goal is for this car. Its a 2.5 turbo I engine out of an 89 plymouth sundance. it's goin in my 89 daytona and yes it has the 1 piece intake manifold off of the 2.2 T-II. It's gonna be my daily driver but I want to beat all those little hondas out there whos drivers think they're all that. 20 psi Would be pretty badass!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
I recently finished a similar engine. After doing much research on this site, I can make a few suggestions for you. Firstly, and I'm sure many of us will agree, that Mitsu turbo must go, and replace with a Garrett or even an old air-research from a log intake car; add a 2.5" or even a 3" swingvalve, and MINIMUM a 2.5" exhaust with a straight thru muffler; 3" exhaust is even better. Secondly, get instruments to monitor your boost and fuel ratio, especially now that you are making more power; One thing that will kill your engine quick is detonation and lean mixtures! Maybe make sure your fuel pump can keep up with demand. Next that stock one piece needs to be replaced with a two piece; even for what the two piece intakes are fetching now, use a two piece. Next, injectors, +20 or +40. Next, an intercooler and three bar map sensor. Next, a custom calibration to properly make everything work! Once you start doing your research on this site, you can elaborate to what your wallet will allow. The Pope's special washers and PT lifters and beehive springs will enhance the valvetrain action. Screw the Hondas and Subarus, now you can go after Camaros and Mustangs. Just suggestions, and if anyone wants to add please do!
 

· Mr. Moderator
Joined
·
8,952 Posts
I recently finished a similar engine. After doing much research on this site, I can make a few suggestions for you. Firstly, and I'm sure many of us will agree, that Mitsu turbo must go, and replace with a Garrett or even an old air-research from a log intake car; add a 2.5" or even a 3" swingvalve, and MINIMUM a 2.5" exhaust with a straight thru muffler; 3" exhaust is even better. Secondly, get instruments to monitor your boost and fuel ratio, especially now that you are making more power; One thing that will kill your engine quick is detonation and lean mixtures! Maybe make sure your fuel pump can keep up with demand. Next that stock one piece needs to be replaced with a two piece; even for what the two piece intakes are fetching now, use a two piece. Next, injectors, +20 or +40. Next, an intercooler and three bar map sensor. Next, a custom calibration to properly make everything work! Once you start doing your research on this site, you can elaborate to what your wallet will allow. The Pope's special washers and PT lifters and beehive springs will enhance the valvetrain action. Screw the Hondas and Subarus, now you can go after Camaros and Mustangs. Just suggestions, and if anyone wants to add please do!
The t1 log cars Airresearch turbos is the same wheel and center section as a t2 it just needs the t2 coldside housing so they are the same turbo.
This is good advice but let me break it down some more.
I have built a lot of 2.5's and tend to use the same combination with great success.
1)First off you are going to be power limited by the garret turbo. 250-260 at the wheels max. I would definitely look into a s60 turbo for an easy 300 hp and almost the same spool tine as a t2 garret.
2)Port both manifolds. stock ported exhaust manifold is great. A 2 piece intake is a must for porting. 1 pieces need to be cut in half and the neck cut off to get the kind of flow you need for a ported head and you might as well get a 2 piece to port.
3) Port the head. 3-5 angle valve job at a minimum. For valve train I would suggest an f2 cam, f3 isnt cut very well for our cars. Beehive springs, gm retainers, and pt lifters with shims from the pope are great.
4) FMIC. a good EBAY bar and plate knockoff is great. They flow pretty well and have good core sizes for cooling and are definitely worth it over the more expensive name brand ones. They do their job well.
5) Fuel system. Walboro 255 is great. AFPR's are a must with a cal.
6) gauges. Aftermarket boost and wideband A/F gauges are a must. Nothing like blowing thousands of dollars to be missing a 200 dollar gauge and start blowing pistons.
7)Transmission. Stage 2-3 set up from TU is a good clutch. You are probably going to need a clutch that will hold 350+ ft. lbs of torque. might also look into a chrome moly bearing retainer plate. They are good insurance so your trans doesnt take a dump on you.
8) 3 inch exhaust FTW.
9) Get your cal last. After you have your whole set up, cindy can set the cal pretty close so that it will run optimally with your slew of parts.
Other things to consider when building for power. Make sure you have a good suspension underneath the car. Poly engine mounts are a MUST IMO. Also consider other aftermarket gauges like oil pressure, water temp, egt. etc. THe stock ones are not that fantastically accurate.
Hope this helps
 

· Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
This is something for the manual transmission, most popularly the A520; Identified via a round tag on the top of the gearbox section. A chrome moly bearing plate is used as a strong flat plate with holes machined to replace the stock mild steel bearing plate. It is part of the gearbox, and with higher torque a modified engine produces, it will try to separate the mainshaft and coutershaft gears. With enough time and higher boost/torque levels, enough torque can be applied through the transmission to fully separate the gears from each other, and when it comes time to mesh them back together, BLAM or KABOOM, all the gears get destroyed, and requires a lengthy and expensive trans removal and replacement. The 520 is a good trans, but it needs further mods with increasing torque levels. Keep in mind, while the trans is out, may as well add an OBX LSD to harness the max traction.
Link to trans plate:
????????? Parts P/N FWD 61-0239

and LSD:
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/slip-differential-p-306.html
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,344 Posts
This is something for the manual transmission, most popularly the A520; Identified via a round tag on the top of the gearbox section. A chrome moly bearing plate is used as a strong flat plate with holes machined to replace the stock mild steel bearing plate. It is part of the gearbox, and with higher torque a modified engine produces, it will try to separate the mainshaft and coutershaft gears. With enough time and higher boost/torque levels, enough torque can be applied through the transmission to fully separate the gears from each other, and when it comes time to mesh them back together, BLAM or KABOOM, all the gears get destroyed, and requires a lengthy and expensive trans removal and replacement. The 520 is a good trans, but it needs further mods with increasing torque levels. Keep in mind, while the trans is out, may as well add an OBX LSD to harness the max traction.
Link to trans plate:
????????? Parts P/N FWD 61-0239

and LSD:
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/slip-differential-p-306.html
the A525 was the weakest tranny you are talking about and as said before go with a A523
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,230 Posts
that plate is just under the trans end cover you see in driver's wheel well

the moly plate would be good ins , and consider : the plate that is in it now is prob worn thin around the holes the shafts pass through

this is not uncommon in an already used trans - the material the plate is made of will develop a step in the edge around the shaft holes that results in the plate thinning around the holes - sorry , wish I had a pic
 

· Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You guys are a lot of help :) I have few other questions for you all. Since this is a 2.5 build I don't have access to forged cranks do I? Oh and I'm gonna be going with the large valves and oversize seats for the cylinder head along with the cometic .51 gasket. Will I have any interference issues with any of the fwd performance cams? Recommend the best clutch? Money is just money in this build I get paid every two weeks and $350 goes toward my car. Start spitting out stuff that needs to be done! I want to run 20 psi When this is done
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top