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2 Questions for people who know more than me.

3K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  NAJ 
#1 ·
Ok, I'm currently searching down anything I can find on the topic here, and on other forums as well. So if my questions are covered in a FAQ thread I've missed please point out the link.

I recently bought a very clean 87' lancer with the T-1 for a 2nd daily for the family. It's got 52k, the engine bay is very clean, mostly original.
While replacing old rubber under the hood I found so much oem stuff I figure I better change the timing belt.

1)Can anyone point out a link for the shop procedure, or have any tips?

2)I've got a sensor on the manifold that is pretty badly jury rigged together.
It's located right up top near the turbo and has both vaccuum lines and a
pigtail running from it. I have pictures I can mail if need be. I can't seem to figure out how to link them in this post, I need to know the name or a
part-number so I can track down a replacement. It may be a manifold pressure sensor/boost solenoid.

Other than that she run's well, I've got what sounds like a little miss at idle, but then I've still got to go through the fuel section and set the timing. I've got a lot of experience with 4cyl. forced induction engines just none with this chrysler 2.2. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
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#2 ·
Here is the procedure and tips.
Drain the cooling system first, one bolt for the R/S engine mount bracket runs into the water jacket.
Loosen the rad cap to relieve pressure then retighten, open the radiator petcock and the overflow bottle will drain, when the bottle drains remove the radiator cap and the hex plug in the head behind the thermostat (5/16 hexbit socket),this will allow the radiator and block to drain.
When refilling, close the petcock, fill the system slowly until the coolant stays level at the top of the hex plug opening, reinstall the hex plug, fill the radiator and overflow bottle.
It is also recommended to replace the water pump when doing the belt since you will be right there and have easy access.
Line up all of the timing marks before removal.
#1 cylinder at TDC on a compression stroke, the mark on the flywheel should be aligned with 0, the slot in the Cam will be at 12 o'clock center with the head and the rotor will be pointing to #1 cylinder on the distributor cap.
When installing be sure all marks are still aligned, if you do not have the Chrysler Tensioning Tool tension the belt so you can twist it 90 degrees, with the spark plugs removed rotate the crankshaft by hand 2 revolutions until back to TDC and recheck mark alignment and belt tension, repeat as necassary until all are correct.
Be sure you have everything tool wise you may need before starting, the crank pully bolts may be an inverted torx, E15 if I am not mistaken.

Disconnect the battery ground cable, then raise and support the vehicle with jackstands.
Remove the right-hand inner splash shield.
Loosen the crankshaft pulley and water pump pulley retaining bolts.
Remove the accessory drive belts, then the crankshaft and water pump pulleys.
Remove the nuts securing the timing belt cover to the cylinder head and the cylinder block, then the timing belt cover halves.
Support the engine with a suitable jack, then remove the right-hand engine mount bolt and raise the engine slightly.
Loosen the timing belt tensioner, then remove the timing belt.



What is not mentioned there is the stationary bracket must be removed. this is the bracket that the A/C Compressor and Alternator are bolted to.
You can just remove the compressor mounting bolts and move the compressor aside, use a bungy cord to secure it out of your way.
It is not as difficult as it sounds, if you have never done one take your time, the key is being sure of mark alignment when you are done and then set ignition timing after complete reassembly.



I will need a pic of the sensor you are referring to, to try to identify it.
You can use TinyPics or Photobucket to upload pics/images.

Hope this was helpful.
 
#6 ·
I believe this is just a vacuum distribution block. If it doesn't leak it should be fine.It'ses a37mm wrench(or adjustable) and the part #is 4306283.I'd take $15 shipped.

can you please tell me what connects to this the bigger side on that piece I have soemthing that comes off of it into 4 different plastic hoses then connects into whatever is on the gram of the car
 
#7 ·
It's not uncommon for these Engines to have a little intermittent burp at idle.

When the baro opens it takes a gulp of air and it sounds like a stumble.

Thanks
Randy
 
#10 ·
Schematic Font Parallel Rectangle Slope


 
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