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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How much boost can you run on the +20 injectors on a intercooled 2.2? I figured that I can safely run 18lbs, but if not let me know!
 

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Ive spiked that on stockers, Im sure youd be fine at 18psi. IIRC the +20's should be good to like 250hp.
 

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I know I'm digging this one out of the proverbial grave, but I'd like to know the answer to the question as well. But I have 2.5 T1 (may put intercooler later).
 

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you need to put an intercooler on it NOW. if your going to turn up the boost, you need to be safe! im not sure about 2.5, but i ran 18-19 psi on +18's, i had to turn down the fuel pressure to 48 psi with the vaccuum line dissconnected, and it was still running a 10.2 a/f ratio, this was on a 2.2 with a stage II cal though.
 

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I have a stage 5 from FWD set for 18 PSI and a dual boost level TU cal for 20 PSI on race gas, both work good.

If your not running a ported engine the +20 cals are pretty nice. For some one just looking to turn the boost up and be happy they're pretty nice. Ported head, big hybrid turbo and other mods should have +40s. But many people can make more than enough power with +20s. My 2.2 made 214 WHP and 264 ft lbs on 3 pistons and 14 PSI with +20s. They are rated at 270 BHP.
 

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So if I run my +20 injectors on my 88 lebaron with a t2 garret at 18 psi it should be alright?
I have a pyro gauge and a n/b (can't afford a wide band)
 

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You still have to run a cal for +20's correct, or are you just planning on installing the +20s with the stock cal? Also do you need to run a 3bar map or not?
 

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a stock cal on +20's will be ok, just a bit rich when cold and not reading off the O2. Once the O2 feedback comes on you'll be fine.
 

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with ported head, ported 2 piece with 52mm tb, and a ported exhaust manifold with 3" exhaust is a good combo with a MP stage 2 and +20s. But if you want 18 PSI and mild mods the 3 bar stage 5 setup is the way to go. Going to +20s isn't a huge jump and neither is going to 18 PSI. A good pump gas 18 PSI computer should run at 20 PSI no problem on race gas without worry. The problem is running a lot of mods and boost with +20s, in that case buy +40s.
 

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stock head, stock 2 piece and a ported exhaust manifold.
I will eventually go with a wideband but I need a good healthy motor, suspension,
Decent tires and some other more important stuff.
I plan to run 18 psi with a home made ally system.
But teenage budget and time interferes a lot. So I'm moving one step at a time.
I already have the +20's, a huge fmic, and some great tune up stuff but I need rear struts badly and I need an exhaust before I start thinking wideband.
If I run 18 on a stock cal with +20's a nb gauge, and a pyrometer can I get by?
 

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stock head, stock 2 piece and a ported exhaust manifold.
I will eventually go with a wideband but I need a good healthy motor, suspension,
Decent tires and some other more important stuff.
I plan to run 18 psi with a home made ally system.
But teenage budget and time interferes a lot. So I'm moving one step at a time.
I already have the +20's, a huge fmic, and some great tune up stuff but I need rear struts badly and I need an exhaust before I start thinking wideband.
If I run 18 on a stock cal with +20's a nb gauge, and a pyrometer can I get by?
You need to find a 3 bar off of a GN at least and a 3 bar cal. Or you turn the injectors down till they flow like stock or you flood the engine with fuel unless your at full boost. My brothers van gets 9-11 MPG city / highway with a +20 and no cal for it. I would keep the stock injectors in untill you get a cal and a map. Then if you run alki injection set it to come on at 20 PSI and run 25 PSI of boost. DON'T run alki injection with a cal and +20s, way too much fuel. I've seen people for years run 18 PSI on a stock engine and bigger IC with stock injectors and Grainger valves. +20s to do it is just super safe. Once you start porting the head and intake and adding 3" exhaust things get exciting. The Flex fuel injectors are about a +20, should have got them for free at a pick n pull and used money to get a cal. I've done it a few times lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Why didn't I get this many responses when I asked this a year ago?:) Well, one response was all I needed. I did have an AFPR, and turned down the fuel pressure. A year later and the car is fine(a friend owns it now). I don't know about that poor gas mileage the Pope's brother was getting, as I was still getting mid to high 20's(MPG) on the highway. Maybe he was running stock fuel pressure? Anyway, you can't think about any boost levels past 14lbs without some kind of intercooler. My old car has a SRT4 intercooler, which is great for that mild setup.
 

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Why didn't I get this many responses when I asked this a year ago?:) Well, one response was all I needed. I did have an AFPR, and turned down the fuel pressure. A year later and the car is fine(a friend owns it now). I don't know about that poor gas mileage the Pope's brother was getting, as I was still getting mid to high 20's(MPG) on the highway. Maybe he was running stock fuel pressure? Anyway, you can't think about any boost levels past 14lbs without some kind of intercooler. My old car has a SRT4 intercooler, which is great for that mild setup.
Why would anyone buy a bigger injector just to pay more money to turn it down to stock flow numbers? You don't get more fuel when you turn them down. My brothers van has them just plugged in. However it uses a TU cal for +20s now and runs right. I had to run +20s at stock fuel pressure with my GLHS. Everything ported and 3" exhaust though :)
 

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ok, so i have a 2.5 mitsu daytona w/big fmic,zener diode,a/f ,egt,ported exhaust manifold.

can i just drop in +18's and go???
 

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ok, so i have a 2.5 mitsu daytona w/big fmic,zener diode,a/f ,egt,ported exhaust manifold.

can i just drop in +18's and go???
the only time you can add the FFV or +20s without a cal is when the whole top end is ported including the head
 
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