Turbo Dodge Forums banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:mad:I recently bought truck A/C did not work found cluth fuse blown replaced and A/C worked fine for about 3-5 min. blew fuse. I looked at wires going to clutch and found they were frayed. I cut them and hard wired around connector replaced fuse and fuse blew again. I then cut wires going to clutch and replaced fuse again and did not blow fuse. of couse clutch does not engage. Do I assume the clutch coil is bad? Where would you buy one and does the compressor have to be removed? Thanks for help!!!!!!!!!!!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,737 Posts
Removal
The refrigerant system can remain fully-charged during compressor clutch, pulley, or coil replacement. The compressor clutch can be serviced in the vehicle.

Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
On models with the diesel engine option, remove the compressor from the engine. Do not remove the refrigerant lines or fittings. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COMPRESSOR - REMOVAL)
Unplug the compressor clutch coil wire harness connector.
Insert the two pins of the spanner wrench (Special Tool 6462 in Kit 6460) into the holes of the clutch plate. Hold the clutch plate stationary and remove the hex nut (CLUTCH NUT REMOVE).
Remove the clutch plate and clutch shims. On models with the diesel engine option, a puller (Special Tool 6461 in Kit 6460) is used to remove the clutch plate (CLUTCH PULLER - DIESEL MODELS). This compressor also uses a shaft key, which must be removed.
Remove the external front housing snap ring with snap ring pliers (EXTERNAL SNAP RING REMOVE).
Install the lip of the rotor puller (Special Tool C-6141-1 in Kit 6460) into the snap ring groove exposed in Step 6, and install the shaft protector (Special Tool C-6141-2 in Kit 6460) (SHAFT PROTECTOR AND PULLER).
Install the puller through-bolts (Special Tool C-6461) through the puller flange and into the jaws of the rotor puller and tighten (INSTALL PULLER PLATE). Turn the puller center bolt clockwise until the rotor pulley is free.
Remove the screw and retainer from the clutch coil lead wire harness on the compressor front housing (CLUTCH COIL LEAD WIRE HARNESS).
Remove the snap ring from the compressor hub and remove the clutch field coil (CLUTCH FIELD COIL SNAP RING REMOVE). Slide the clutch field coil off of the compressor hub.

Installation
Install the clutch field coil and snap ring.
Install the clutch coil lead wire harness retaining clip on the compressor front housing and tighten the retaining screw.
Align the rotor assembly squarely on the front compressor housing hub.
Thread the handle (Special Tool 6464 in Kit 6460) into the driver (Special Tool 6143 in Kit 6460) (ROTOR INSTALLER SET).
Place the driver tool assembly into the bearing cavity on the rotor. Make certain the outer edge of the tool rests firmly on the rotor bearing inner race (ROTOR INSTALL).
Tap the end of the driver while guiding the rotor to prevent binding. Tap until the rotor bottoms against the compressor front housing hub. Listen for a distinct change of sound during the tapping process, to indicate the bottoming of the rotor.
Install the external front rotor snap ring with snap ring pliers. The bevel side of the snap ring must be facing outward. Press the snap ring to make sure it is properly seated in the groove.
CAUTION: If the snap ring is not fully seated in the groove it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch failure and severe damage to the front housing of the compressor.

Install the original clutch shims on the compressor shaft.
Install the clutch plate. On models with the diesel engine option, install the shaft key. Use the shaft protector (Special Tool 6141-2 in Kit 6460) to install the clutch plate on the compressor shaft (CLUTCH PLATE INSTALL). Tap the clutch plate over the compressor shaft until it has bottomed against the clutch shims. Listen for a distinct change of sound during the tapping process, to indicate the bottoming of the clutch plate.
Install the compressor shaft hex nut. Tighten the nut to 14.4 N·m (10.5 ft. lbs.).
Check the clutch air gap with a feeler gauge (CHECK CLUTCH AIR GAP). If the air gap does not meet the specification, add or subtract shims as required. The air gap specification is 0.41 to 0.79 millimeter (0.016 to 0.031 inch). If the air gap is not consistent around the circumference of the clutch, lightly pry up at the minimum variations. Lightly tap down at the points of maximum variation.
NOTE: The air gap is determined by the spacer shims. When installing an original, or a new clutch assembly, try the original shims first. When installing a new clutch onto a compressor that previously did not have a clutch, use 1.0, 0.50, and 0.13 millimeter (0.040, 0.020, and 0.005 inch) shims from the clutch hardware package that is provided with the new clutch.
On models with the diesel engine option, install the compressor on the engine. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COMPRESSOR - INSTALLATION)
Connect the battery negative cable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So you think it the coil too!! Thanks for info do you know where to get parts and special tools.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,737 Posts
The tools listed are Miller Specialty Tools made specifically for Chrysler but are probably available from Matco, Snap On etc.
You should be able to get the clutch/coil thru Mopar or aftermarket, price out a remaned compressor w/ clutch, may not be much more than the coil seperatly.
Since your wires are frayed I would see if the pigtail is available thru Mopar or at a JY and fix that first.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top