1990 dodge daytona ES 2.5 turbo
5 speed manual
91 octane pump gas
dynoed it today @ dynomite in san diego in miramar ($45 for 4 pulls!!! phone number on dyno sheet)
it was a dynojet dyno with the "brake" set to 5% (whatever that means)
boost set to 17psi
BLOCK AND HEAD
2.5 turbo common block
cylinders bored out for 0.030" oversize pistons
cast mahle 0.030" oversize pistons
stock 2.5 turbo rods
stock 2.5 turbo crankshaft
balance shafts removed
stock fast-burn turbo cylinder head
block and head have less than 4k miles on them since they were both rebuilt
mopar 2006 head gasket
both head and block have been resurfaced, and since cylinders are slightly oversize, my compression ratio is probably a bit higher than stock
TURBO
turbonetics hybrid T3/T4 turbo
.63 exhaust housing
s60 style compressor housing
super 46 trim compressor wheel
stage 1 exhaust turbine
2.5" garrett swingvalve
EXHAUST
stock exhaust manifold
stock 2.5" downpipe
autozone/kragen off-the-shelf 2.5" catalytic converter (replacement, probably terrible flow)
turbos unleashed 3" cat-back
magnaflow 3" straight through muffler
INTAKE
big front mount intercooler in front of radiator (see pic)
3.5" x 19" x 14" core, bar and plate, internal fins, 2.5" inlet and outlet
2.5" intercooler and air filter tubing
cone air filter located in front of battery location
Greddy Type RS blow off valve on hot intercooler pipe
FUEL
stock fuel pump
stock fuel lines
stock fuel filter
+40 injectors
AFPR located in stock location
fuel pressure set to 29 psi (AFPR vacuum line unplugged)
NOTE: this may be equivalent flow rate to stock injectors. the +40 injectors are installed just to be ready for the stage 5 computer which i dont have yet. this stage 3 computer does not require +40 injectors.
IGNITION
autolite 63 spark plugs (just for the heck of it)
otherwise completely stock
timing set to 10 deg BTDC (no improvement seen on dyno versus 12 BTDC)
ENGINE MANAGEMENT
stage 3 90/91 computer from fwdperformance
grainger valve for boost control
NOTES:
EGT's were climbing into the 1500's during the dyno pull and would probably have reached or did reach over 1600F. hard to say since my EGT gauge response rate is pretty slow.
i cracked a piston last week with this setup. its unclear if it was from the high boost or if a randomly failing HEP (leading to backfires and cutting out at high boost) had anything to do with it. so beware.
i assumed this stage 3 computer still had the overboost cutoff at 14.7 psi, and that my boost gauge was inaccurate (flicking it causes the needle to jump around, its a crappy 9$ autozone one). after installing a brand new autometer boost gauge today, and seeing that my boost really WAS 17 psi, i now realize this computer must have had its overboost cut off removed, which means i am running higher boost than the computer can see, which is probably not a good idea.
there are NUMEROUS additonal modifications to this car, like relocating the battery, moving hoses out of the way, etc... which are not listed, but were required in order to make all this fit/work
air conditioner works great. removed cruise control servo to make way for intercooler tubing and smaller battery.
SO! The remainder of my plan for this car is:
ported exhaust manifold
3" swingvalve
3" downpipe
eliminate the cat
stage 5 fwdperformance computer (and bigger fuel pump if needed)
oh yeah and set boost to 25psi
how much power do you think i will make then?
5 speed manual
91 octane pump gas
dynoed it today @ dynomite in san diego in miramar ($45 for 4 pulls!!! phone number on dyno sheet)
it was a dynojet dyno with the "brake" set to 5% (whatever that means)
boost set to 17psi
BLOCK AND HEAD
2.5 turbo common block
cylinders bored out for 0.030" oversize pistons
cast mahle 0.030" oversize pistons
stock 2.5 turbo rods
stock 2.5 turbo crankshaft
balance shafts removed
stock fast-burn turbo cylinder head
block and head have less than 4k miles on them since they were both rebuilt
mopar 2006 head gasket
both head and block have been resurfaced, and since cylinders are slightly oversize, my compression ratio is probably a bit higher than stock
TURBO
turbonetics hybrid T3/T4 turbo
.63 exhaust housing
s60 style compressor housing
super 46 trim compressor wheel
stage 1 exhaust turbine
2.5" garrett swingvalve
EXHAUST
stock exhaust manifold
stock 2.5" downpipe
autozone/kragen off-the-shelf 2.5" catalytic converter (replacement, probably terrible flow)
turbos unleashed 3" cat-back
magnaflow 3" straight through muffler
INTAKE
big front mount intercooler in front of radiator (see pic)
3.5" x 19" x 14" core, bar and plate, internal fins, 2.5" inlet and outlet
2.5" intercooler and air filter tubing
cone air filter located in front of battery location
Greddy Type RS blow off valve on hot intercooler pipe
FUEL
stock fuel pump
stock fuel lines
stock fuel filter
+40 injectors
AFPR located in stock location
fuel pressure set to 29 psi (AFPR vacuum line unplugged)
NOTE: this may be equivalent flow rate to stock injectors. the +40 injectors are installed just to be ready for the stage 5 computer which i dont have yet. this stage 3 computer does not require +40 injectors.
IGNITION
autolite 63 spark plugs (just for the heck of it)
otherwise completely stock
timing set to 10 deg BTDC (no improvement seen on dyno versus 12 BTDC)
ENGINE MANAGEMENT
stage 3 90/91 computer from fwdperformance
grainger valve for boost control
NOTES:
EGT's were climbing into the 1500's during the dyno pull and would probably have reached or did reach over 1600F. hard to say since my EGT gauge response rate is pretty slow.
i cracked a piston last week with this setup. its unclear if it was from the high boost or if a randomly failing HEP (leading to backfires and cutting out at high boost) had anything to do with it. so beware.
i assumed this stage 3 computer still had the overboost cutoff at 14.7 psi, and that my boost gauge was inaccurate (flicking it causes the needle to jump around, its a crappy 9$ autozone one). after installing a brand new autometer boost gauge today, and seeing that my boost really WAS 17 psi, i now realize this computer must have had its overboost cut off removed, which means i am running higher boost than the computer can see, which is probably not a good idea.
there are NUMEROUS additonal modifications to this car, like relocating the battery, moving hoses out of the way, etc... which are not listed, but were required in order to make all this fit/work
air conditioner works great. removed cruise control servo to make way for intercooler tubing and smaller battery.
SO! The remainder of my plan for this car is:
ported exhaust manifold
3" swingvalve
3" downpipe
eliminate the cat
stage 5 fwdperformance computer (and bigger fuel pump if needed)
oh yeah and set boost to 25psi
how much power do you think i will make then?
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