27sf512 chip and burn1 programmer from moates.com
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I use one for writing EEPROMs for my LM, works great. Any additional Qs?
hi and thanks for the reply i just wanted to be sure i ordered the right thing and it would work in my 88 daytona.im new to writing cals and taking everything in can be a little headspinning.is it easy to setup for the first time?i havent received it yet but should b here tomarrow.
It's pretty easy to setup and use. Just load the drivers and the software from moates.net, plug in the burner and fire up flash and burn, setup is done.
In flash and burn, you select the type of chip in the upper left hand corner before you do anything. Normally, I erase the chip, blank check it, load a file to the buffer (this would be the cal you want to burn), write the file to the chip, then verify the chip with the buffer. It took me longer to type that than it does to actually do it (and I type ~50wpm).
One word of caution, the 27sf512 is 2x (I believe) as large as the standard cal for a smec. Flash and burn normally sets the offset correctly so you shouldn't even have to worry about the size. Personally, I still prefer to double (or quadruple for Logic Modules) the cal. I doubt you'll have problems, but let me know if you want instructions on how to double a cal.
yes i ordered the 2timer also thinking it would b easier to burn two cals and not have to pull chip everytime to fine tune the cal.i think i understand the offsets and how they work i just cant wait to get it all up and running.what would i need to be able to have a laptop in car and change values on the fly is that possable?i have a Zeitronix ZT-2 & LCD Wideband, afpr and a RRR coming this week to and i think im going to try some dsm450 injectors.18psi is all im going to run till i get the t4 turbo rebuilt then run around 26 psi.
I haven't tried the 2 timer yet (although I have one), as there are traces on the LM that connect pin1 and pin2 of the EEPROM. I haven't had time to check out where those traces go or why they're there. Smec's may be different, but a word of caution, you may end up grounding something with the 2 timer that you don't want to. You may also have clearance issues with the 2 timer in a smec.
If you're going to run a custom cal a RRR probably isn't worth the money, as you have full control over the fueling. The RRR is really just a hack, a cal with properly scaled fueling is the better solution. Widebands are always a good idea though, I'd be lost without mine.
For our ECU's changing values on the fly is really only possible with a romulator such as the moates.net ostrich.
I run 20psi on my CSX with the factory intercooler/turbo setup, and a 3 bar +40 cal so you should be fine @ 18psi. My car has been taking a hellish beating at that PSI level for almost a year now with no problems although my clutch is about to give up the ghost.
My understanding is that it's stock 89 T2 w/ 2.5" swingvalve. I don't know for sure since I bought the car from someone who swapped in a common block, and provided the factory engine in a non-running fashion. It's certinaly got the factory housings on it, so I don't have much of a reason to think it's anything else.
I have a rebuilt HX-35 from a cummins reman and a .55 AR BEP housing that should be on before summer is out, but that's a whole other story
.Nope, never run a hybrid. If it was a couple of hundred more for a brand new turbo vs a rebuild, I'd probably do it. Only reason I got the HX was that it was *dirt* cheap, so I was able to spend on other goodies (external WG, housing, flanges and header materials).
As to the cal, you can check the dcal yahoo group, or some of the other TD sites.
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