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OK,guys i have been looking over the stickies and see a hole in our little world!!! i want to create a thread for the performance of the 543. parts,interchange,clutches,CV's, tricks,tips,and so on. i want to post it here in the 3.0 section because the trans in very 3.0 pacific. also after a few weeks of leaving the thread open i will edit it and post it as a sticky!!! so guys share the wealth!!!!:thumb:
 

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can we get a link to the obx LSD that fits our tranny? good start.
 

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should be known that the obx is the lsd that needs to be prepped before installed. didnt they have issues if you just installed them out of the box? Ed knows more about this

there is another option for an lsd though, qualiff or however its spelled.



ooo our lovely tranny cants use a clutch alignment tool. if the tranny dosnt bolt up easily chances are your clutch isnt aligned correctly.


Booger bushings can be had for cheep. we need the set with 3 little bushings and 1 big one. its called the 3 + 1 set and they are $22 for the set. VERY WORTH IT!


clutches can be had from fwd performance or Turbos Unleashed. Im sure forward motion sells them too. I use the 6puck "stage 2" from TU and its deff Daily drivable but it takes some getting used to (grabby, can chirp 3rd with this clutch)
 

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fwd also sells a short throw shifter

im pretty sure forward motion lists a different short throw on there site, not sure if its available or not.
 

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Hopefully some members can verify that is the correct LSD. That model is also on ebay right now for $395 shipped, It says it fits the 420a trans. Perhaps it should also be noted that some vendors and members recommend disassembling the obx lsd's from new and chasing all the threads and torquing all the bolts before use. Apparently Obx's quality control is terrible and bolts are often loose from new as well as partially tapped bolt holes.

A few ideas for the sticky

1. link to quaife version that fits a543
2. I remember reading something about the "drain bolt mod" or something like that.
3. Compiled fluid recommendations. (I use pennzoil synchromesh)
4 link to shifter bushings? I think I got mine from fwd perf. not sure though
5. KMperformance solid bobble strut is great!
6 Definately need to know what clutches work. All TD's? TI's? TII's? 3.0 only? etc etc.

I'll be watching this thread. Can't wait to see how it turns out. Good idea knightmoves!
 

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A543 is basically a V6 model of the A523.

Which means,

Neon OBX fits, you can drill a tap a drain plug hole, 5w-30 works, booger, fwd, or polybushings shifter bushing works, polybushings bobble strut works, any TII/TIII clutch will work fine for application that puts out less than 250 ft lb of torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
when i bought my FIDANZA fly wheel i noticed that it was listed for the 2.2 and the 2.5 T1,T2,T3, and VNT motors.
 

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yeah but the hole simply isnt deep enough even if there was a bronze bushing in there. the tool (at least the one that came with my clutch kit) would not have worked unless the crank had a deep enough hole into it.
mine was a centerforce clutch. stage 3 and it came with a i guess a standard tool to install it with. worked fine. what brand was yours?
 

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should be known that the obx is the lsd that needs to be prepped before installed. didnt they have issues if you just installed them out of the box? Ed knows more about this
There is a lot of documentation that the OBX unit didn't have the best machining (lots of burrs left behind), had poor belleville washers and needs slightly longer case bolts. Turbosunleashed.com will do the prep work or sell you the parts if you want to do it.

there is another option for an lsd though, qualiff or however its spelled.
The OBX Limited Slip is essentially a cheap knock-off of the Quaife Limited Slip. The OBX is about 1/3 the price and so far seems strong enough if prepped correctly...


ooo our lovely tranny cants use a clutch alignment tool. if the tranny dosnt bolt up easily chances are your clutch isnt aligned correctly.
Since our cranks do not have an pilot bushing, I use the alignment tool to move the clutch disk around and give me something to measure off of.

A543 is basically a V6 model of the A523.

Which means,

Neon OBX fits, you can drill a tap a drain plug hole, 5w-30 works, booger, fwd, or polybushings shifter bushing works, polybushings bobble strut works, any TII/TIII clutch will work fine for application that puts out less than 250 ft lb of torque.
My bobble strut also works.

For oil, I use Mobil 1 0w-30.


when i bought my FIDANZA fly wheel i noticed that it was listed for the 2.2 and the 2.5 T1,T2,T3, and VNT motors.
Basically, any of the parts for the 523 will work on the 543. On the flywheel, I considered the aluminum flywheel, but opted for a lightened steel. The aluminum ones don't do a good job transferring heat from the steel ring to the aluminum which can cause damage to the clutch.

For the shifter. I have tried a off the shelf short shifter (TONs of them on ebay.) and my own version of a "MadDog" shifter. Hands down I prefer the "MadDog" style shfiter. MadDog makes a short shifter where the pivot point is raised and the shaft under the pivot point is extended. This does a better job of shortening the shift and keeps the shifter closer to the steering wheel.

Maddog Shifters
 

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Discussion Starter #14
will the LSD deal with the diff pin problems? or is the diff pin savers the fix?
 

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Just have to remember for the flywheel / other parts that our cars can take SOME of the 4 cylinder stuff - 8 bolt crank. Some sites don't specify the 3.0L, but anything for an 8bolt 2.2L should fit our cars.
 

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will the LSD deal with the diff pin problems? or is the diff pin savers the fix?
The OBX/Quaife type limited slip differential is a complete replacement for the stock differential. So there is no pin to come out...

A possible fix for the differential pin is to weld it in place. I have never tried that, but I did work with a guy that used to repair minivan differentials by knocking the pin back in place and welding the pin to the housing (MIG welder). I believe he did this with the transmission in the van. Not sure if removing the crossmember is needed, but it would probably help.
 

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any reason why? i use 10 40 I THINK! i was doing it as an experiment. i cant remember which. you dont want to any thicker than that though.
Thinner oil robs less hp from the drivetrain. Since I am going thin, I want to make sure I have a good oil in there hence Mobil 1 (or similar high-quality oil.) Given the operating temperatures, the first number is the one to pay primary attention too.

Sundance, I thought you went to 10 40 in your engine to limit oil burning.


i can second ed's style of the shifter. hit stick is just as tall as stock but the throw is SUPER SMALL. maybe too small. we didnt grind/miss any gears the whole week though, IIRC!
I think I measured the 1-2 throw at ~3-3.5". I never missed a shift. It is a little "weird" the first time or two, then you are used to it and miss it when you hop into a car with a stock shifter.

I found it much easier to not grind because the gear shift happens quicker and avoids overlap between getting it in gear and dropping the clutch back out...

If you want a slightly longer shift, you could lengthen the top side of the shifter some. That would get it closer to the steering wheel.

ed we need pics of your due it your self shifter
I will see what I can do.
 
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