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Why? Get a connector for the late style coil and tape back one pin from the TIII. Open the harness about six inches at the injector harness takeout and retape with friction tape. Lengthen the knock sensor jumper harness. Make a jumper harness for the IAT sensor. Much less hassle, and you still have an uncut factory harness.

John
 
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Yes its very easy to convert the TIII harness to 8 valve. All you really need is a 90-91 TI SBEC. I think he meant to tape off the injector control 2 wire going to the TIII coil plug(blue with yellow tracer) and splice the other two to a 91+ coil plug(colors match)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i will never give up i am going to make r/t 8 valve and csx will be 16 valve i know i am nuts but the csx must be fast and spirit needs to be reliable .wife says if i am going to keep r/t its gonna have a car seat in it.cause she wants to drive it too.
 

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also when you say tape back one pin from tiii harness what do u mean i thank u very much for your help
Yes its very easy to convert the TIII harness to 8 valve. All you really need is a 90-91 TI SBEC. I think he meant to tape off the injector control 2 wire going to the TIII coil plug(blue with yellow tracer) and splice the other two to a 91+ coil plug(colors match)
What I mean is the coil on the TIII has three wires, the coil on the SOHC has two wires. The later epoxy coil that mounts off the thermostat housing uses the same pins as a TIII. Take the pins out of the TIII coil connector and put them in the SOHC coil connector. You will have one pin left over, tape it back.

So, yes, tape back the DB/YL wire. While viewing the two pin connector from the coil side and the lock tab up, put the DG/BK on the left and the BK/GY on the right. This is how I drive my SOHC R/T every day.

John
 

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85 New Yorker 2.2 T1, 89 LeBaron Convertible 2.5 T1
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My apologies for resurrecting the thread, but I wanted to add a few details after doing this exact swap. SOME of the SBEC-1 harnesses don't have matching colors on the ignition coil connector. The green wire from the SBEC-2 goes to the square-side of the 2-wire connector. (In my case, instead of completely removing the 4-wire connector and taping back the banking line, I left it in the 4-wire connector, in case I switched back to a 16v engine in this car.)

Also, the knock sensor is tied into the fuel injector harness on the SBEC-1. I stole one from an SMEC setup and left the one from the SBEC dangling there.

Lastly, I cut and extended the wires to the TPS, IAC, and block temperature sensor. I have a strong suspicion I could have unwrapped the wire harnesses, re-routed them, and re-wrapped them in order to reach the connectors. However, extending all of the connectors means I can much more easily switch back to the 16v engine if I luck out with the head and turbo that went bad in the Spirit R/T in the first place.
 
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