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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just got a 86 daytona a couple days ago that didn't run but turned over. it is not getting spark and low fuel pressure. not a single vacuum line was hooked up but i hooked up map and fuel regulator. thought it was the asd relay, i read a trick 2 bypass it by hooking a wire 2 the + of coil and power, it was getting spark and i sprayed starting fluid into it 2 get it to at least fire but it didn't. i looked at timing belt and it was chewed up on 3 teeth so i just changed that but now it wont spark again even with that wire hooked up to the coil, i changed the hep twice and also changed the coil 2 a known good 1, it has flashed a 42,11 and the codes for the map and the 1st and 2nd injectors, but is now only flashing 27.the guy that had it last took turbo off and bypassed it with PVC pipe on intake and a n/a exhaust manifold. after the timing belt was changed when trying 2 crank it it blew a lot of black stuff out of the exalt(carbon?) that it did not before. the ignition switch some times wont want 2 crank the engine and i will have 2 turn it back and remove key and then try again 2 get it to crank and will not go back into accessory.
:newbie:
 

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welcome. To help you, let's tackle one problem at a time.

1st, the timing belt issue. Are you sure all the timing marks are properly aligned and the distributor rotor is orientated correctly? start there. do a search on this forum you'll find A LOT of posts with pictures how to make sure you have the belt timed correctly
 

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I would suggest having someone help you check timing. I had a couple teeth out on the wagon and the problems were different every time. Sometimes you need to advance a tooth at a time until it's running properly.
Welcome to the Forum btw :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i messed up on doing the timing belt i thought the little hole on the intermediate gear was the timing mark but my dad said theirs a small indentation on 1 of the teeth that is the timing mark so for now we alterd wiring and distributer so it would fire at the right time(ill fix 1st thing tomorrow). we got it to start with starting fluid but it is getting no fuel of its own. the engine itself sounds really good. it wont do anything but roll when the wire to the coil is taken off. it caked the driveway with carbon when it started. the town wont b happy with that:lmao:
 

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Welcome To TD.
Clear the codes, crank the engine for 7-10 seconds and see what codes come back.
Code 11 is engine not cranked since battery disconnect.
If this code is still present the controller is not seeing a crank signal from the HEP.
Code 42 is the ASD Relay circuit.
This may have been set by you jumping power to the + coil.

The easiest way to verify Cam timing....
1)Remove the upper cover and measuring around the top from bolt tab to bolt tab get a total reading then divide by 2 and mark that spot on the cover.
This will be 12 o'clock center of the timing cover which is also 12 o'clock center of the head.
2)Remove the spark plugs and rotate the crankshaft by hand clockwise until #1 cylinder is at TDC on a compression stroke.
3)Verify TDC by being sure the timing mark on the flywheel/torque converter is aligned with 0 on the timing plate.
4)The slot in the cam sprocket should be aligned with the mark you made on the timing cover in step #1.
5)The distributor rotor should be aligned with #1 cylinder on the distributor cap.
6)Realign marks and retension belt as needed.
7)Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions by hand bring #1 back to TDC as in steps 2/3 and recheck mark alignment.
8)If correct you can start the car before installing all of the removed parts to verify tension is correct as long as all electrical components and vacuum lines are connected.
A properly tensioned belt will ride in the center of the cam sprocket.
If it rides to the outside the belt is too tight.
If it rides to the inside the belt is too loose.

If your spark plugs are fuel fouled they need to be cleaned or replaced or the vehicle will never start.
If you are getting fuel but no spark disconnect the fuel pump connector while diagnosing so the plugs do not get fouled again.
If the oil is fuel diluted change the oil so you do not wash down the cylinder walls while cranking the engine and again disconnect the fuel pump while diagnosing.

Here are links to 2 threads I posted on diagnosing a no start.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358231-no-start-no-spark-84-90-a.html

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358339-checking-fuel-pressure-84-93-turbo.html

DISREGARD THE SMALLER DRAWN LINE








 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
already changed plugs, 2 of them were cracked.
was getting ready 2 do fuel pump, jacked car up and fuel pumps plug was hanging there idk how it was getting what little fuel pressure it had.:confused:
plugged it in and tried 2 crank and it didn't fix it.
changed injectors to 1s that i know are good and new o rings.
still didn't fix
my dad let me grab power module out of his lancer so i put that in and now it runs under its own power when i bypass the asd relay. not real well but it will idle no problem. fixed most of the vacuum problems but im confused with the log manifold. i have a diagram but is there a guide or something with pictures for it? i got the boost gauge, map and regulator hooked up still.
what all will trigger the asd relay?
with the good power module in it i cant seem 2 get it 2 show codes? flip key 3 times and light goes out and does not come back on. shouldn't it at least flash 12?
also had 2 fix an oil leak the oil line 2 the turbo wasn't sealed well.
and any ideas whats up with the ignition switch? just need a new 1?
and thank you for all the help:D
 

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Have you run the diagnostics I posted for no start, no spark?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
naj that page is actually what i started testing stuff by but i got no power at the coil when i grounded the blue yellow wire.
so got wire diagrams from school and looked over circuit but it looked like everything was alright.
when i did those injectors there was a power wire(dark green black stripe) 2 the injectors pulled out of the plug on injector number 3, got that fixed but still flashed a 3 and 4 injectors not firing code.i disconnected the battery while i swapped injectors and fixed plug so should of reset?
the 86 cars loose memory right when you unhook battery right?

i haven't tried it yet with new module. ill try actuating the relay again tomorrow morning and relook everything over.
cars got 69k miles on it wish i could of gotten it before last owner did:p
btw i got really good fuel pressure now when asd is bypassed.
and i live up in ohio
 

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Be sure everything is hooked up.
Clear your codes.(battery disconnect)
Crank the engine for 7-10 seconds and see what codes return.
Does the Code 42 return?

Code 42 diagnostics being sent thru PM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
redid the timing belt and got it all perfect:D
dad messed with the 10 slot plug to the power module and it started up without the bypass. i had checked it about 5 times and cleaned the plugs:confused:
but he got it working
the power steering had 2 bolts missing out of it at the motor mount got 1 bolt into it but couldn't get the upper 1 to go in without being at a bind. couldn't get the socket onto the back bolt 2 loosen and get off a bind because the pump mount is bent over the bolt. any ideas for that?

still cant get any codes at all and check engine light goes off while its running. i guess thats a good thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
got the codes working finally it flashes a 12 and a 55

just took front off cluster because the coolant temp gauge was all the way up. my charger jams up there some times so i flipped it back down, turned key on and it slowly went straight back up there. the oil psi isint working either and its on same piece as the temp gauge. the cluster in it goes all the way up 2 125mph :confused: wasn't that illegal in the 80s 2 have it over 85 or is this the wrong cluster for the car? i have 1 out of a 85 daytona would that work with everything?
 

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Is the car running now and if so running ok and your only issues now are the cluster/gauges?
 

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The 85 MPH cluster was for *** regualtions. Car companies did this to cheat *** so they didn't have to put on "speed rated" tires, or more expensive ones to "compensate" for the displayed speed. Chevy did this with the camaros in the 80s too.

The clusters should be the same. Also, the clusters are "serviceable, if you know what you are doing. If you tear the cluster apart, each gauge has its own bi-metal motor in it, so each one can be pulled out and replaced seperately.

I would check the connections at the cluster plugs, and check your sensor first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ty turismo always wondered what the deal was with that. ill clean terminals and check sensors tomorrow hopefully it will b nice out.
it runs and has no stalling problems but its got a popping noise when it first starts up it goes away while its idling but comes back if u rev it. just crap burning off from sitting so long?
 
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