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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found a 86 Dodge 600 ES that's actually not rotted out but it won't start. Back window is busted so water has been getting in.

It has spark and fuel but won't start. New tank and pump. Only code was 45 (overboost) I got a code 24 at one point but nothing else.

If you floor it the thing wants to start but won't. Releasing the pedal does nothing. Pulled plugs and all are fuel soaked black so swapped in used clean set but no change. Swapped hep no change. Checked LM bottom is rusty but board looks good minor staining at bottom.

If I go back there gonna bring a LM and a timing belt incase that's the issue. He did say some mice ran out the dashboard so maybe a wire got chewed. I found a chewed yellow wire for the passenger door sensor.

Any ideas on what it is that I can do outside in the dark with minimal tools or is this a lost cause?

Car is over a hour away and towing is so expensive if it can't drive its probably done...

The car

Not starting..
 

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The vehicle is obviously loaded with fuel, you may have to drain the oil which is probably fuel diluted.
The vehicle is an 86 (not an intelligent engine controller), extremely rich, fouled plugs...

1)No Spark/Weak Spark/Intermittent Spark
Line Font Machine Auto part Gas

OR
Line Font Parallel Rectangle Slope
Product Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern


2)Fuel Pressure High

3)Map Sensor Calibration/Vacuum
4)CTS Calibration
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design Coil
Handwriting Font Material property Parallel Rectangle


5)Injector Pulse Width/Shorted Ground Side Control Circuit

6)Cam Timing
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The vehicle is obviously loaded with fuel, you may have to drain the oil which is probably fuel diluted.
The vehicle is an 86 (not an intelligent engine controller), extremely rich, fouled plugs...

1)No Spark/Weak Spark/Intermittent Spark
View attachment 277546
OR
View attachment 277549 View attachment 277551


2)Fuel Pressure High

3)Map Sensor Calibration/Vacuum
4)CTS Calibration
View attachment 277547 View attachment 277548

5)Injector Pulse Width/Shorted Ground Side Control Circuit

6)Cam Timing
We used a old sparkplug and it had yellow weak spark sometimes You think swap in a coil/wires if it's weak?

Also gonna try checking Cam Timing. We tried moving the distributor but no change.

My 86 runs fine just badly rusted I'm thinking grab the lm,pm and the tb off it to swap parts but if mice chewed the harness it might be a lost cause.

If I go down today I'll report back on test results...

I have 5 quarts of 5w40 euro oil I can change it with if it runs.
 

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During diagnostics I would unplug the fuel pump so you do not flood the engine even more.
Did you have the same "yellow, weak spark" when holding the coil wire 1/4" from a good ground and cranking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Timing was definitely off. I did my old trick remove Cam gear and long screwdriver to set the intermediate pulley. I used the timing belt tool so I didn't have to remove anything below the top cover. Once I got the converter at the 0 mark I was able to line everything up...
Crankset Gear Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part

It runs after setting Cam and ign timing. At 1st it started and the belt was screaming then it wouldn't start after that and then I noticed the hep decided to break at that moment...
Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Tread Motor vehicle

Swapped in another hep and nothing but the 3rd one fired right up..

Heat is stuck on cold and I have over an hr ride back with no rear window and it reeks of mouse.
 

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2 teeth off will do it, glad you got the car running and were able to drive home.

We will be waiting for more posts as you start to uncover things with the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
2 teeth off will do it, glad you got the car running and were able to drive home.

We will be waiting for more posts as you start to uncover things with the vehicle.
It made the ride back no heat,speedometer,gas Guage,windows don't work and reeks of mouse.

We found a perfectly sized couch cover and drywall screwed it to make a rear window temporarily.

This probably takes the Crown as sketchiest cheap car I've ever driven back. It sat almost 20 years and the guy said the brakes were done in 2005 lol...

Previous 2 crazy rides that sat a long time were

84 Accord I got for $30 was gonna pay $500 but then the PS line exploded (sprayed the lady in the face) the clutch peddle crunched (rotted cable) and the brake pedal got stuck from a bad booster.I started walking away but the husband begged me to buy it because it was sitting there for years and he would take any offer. I had $30 in my pocket he said yes. I drove that thing back 2 hours power shifting rock hard brake pedal.
Tire Automotive parking light Wheel Car Automotive side marker light


Other time was a 84 Prelude sat 10 years in a garage spent hours messing with the dual sidedrafts then proceeded to drive it around all over the place the brakes worked but were badly rusted and I never got the carbs to run right. Look at the mess...
Car Motor vehicle Hood Vehicle Automotive design



Plans for the Dodge are gonna try to clean it and put on the new timing belt then hopefully get the heat working,put on the new top,fabricate a rear window,change fluids,do suspension,probably swap interior from my rotted 86. Later on swap to one of the T2 intakes I have then a front mount...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So bad ass... love seeing all these old turbo dodges being saved!
Saved to a degree.
Messed with it all day

Did the timing belt,oil change,bled one brake,cleaned more mouse fur/feces,cleaned up broken glass,taped up window, got heat working, and tried to get rid of piss smell but even pure bleach can't beat it. I bet they hid in the hardest to get to part of the heater box. When you turn the heat on no matter how much bleach you dump in the intake or vents it keeps coming back..

Might be easier to swap the whole interior and dashboard out of my rotted 86 Lebaron.
 

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Rent yourself an Ozone Generator, that is what we used at the dealership for trade ins that had cigarette smell, musty/mildew smell, dog smell, etc.

Just Google Ozone Generator and you should find a place near you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Rent yourself an Ozone Generator, that is what we used at the dealership for trade ins that had cigarette smell, musty/mildew smell, dog smell, etc.

Just Google Ozone Generator and you should find a place near you.
My cousin stopped by with some Ozium and it seems way better than the bleach. Gonna try that overnight before I seek out a Ozone generator (used em at the shop before)

Today hit the hardware store and I think 11" x 36" is the right size for a window so $14 got a nice plexiglass window all taped and drilled holes zip tied up. Also grabbed a 2ft bristle brush to clean the hvac. It started then stalled twice codes 15 (speed sensor) and 54 (Hep AGAIN) So LM is on the way out or wiring issues. But still runs good...

Now with a rear window instead of a couch cushion I moved towards the actual windows and messing with the fuses and popping off the door panel I got the 2 passenger windows working but the rear driver side just makes a noise and the driver side is MISSING EVERY BOLT even the window had none (I found one nut in the seat and it fit) the motor is just laying there disconnected....

The window motor looks real healthy

Also jiggling wires and the wipers work now...

I guess I'm gonna have to find the bolts or spend time in the hardware store parking lot....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Same with mine!!! Dodge 600 vert / 1st gen LeBaron vert owners are takin' over TurboDodge's help forum, woo hoo! Hahaha...

You should hear how nasty my driver's side window sounds, like friggen WORSE than nails on a chalkboard. I'll make a recording for you!
Hopefully you don't have a motor just laying there no bolts. Can't stand people taking stuff apart and leaving it with no bolts. I got tape holding the window up gonna have to figure out how to put everything back together. I bet the rear left is the same problem...
 

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Hopefully you don't have a motor just laying there no bolts. Can't stand people taking stuff apart and leaving it with no bolts. I got tape holding the window up gonna have to figure out how to put everything back together. I bet the rear left is the same problem...
Oh man I really hope you film how you're going to fix it all!

No bolts... gahhh.... why... whhhhhhyyyyyyy
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Oh man I really hope you film how you're going to fix it all!

No bolts... gahhh.... why... whhhhhhyyyyyyy
Put it on jackstands and undercoated it with Surface Shield a oil based undercoating like fluid film. No rot holes just surface rust. Very hard to find these cars not rusted where you can't even jack em up..

Got the wipers working by grounding the motor but no high speed...
 

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The wiring is completely different between the 2 speed and intermittent
Power for low and high all travel through the same wire (RD/YL at the motor).
The only thing that changes from low to high is the circuit/resistance in the wiper switch itself.
If there is no power at the RD/WT wire at the motor check to see if you have power at the switch.
You will have power on low, how about on high?
If there is no power at the switch, replace the wiper switch.

Mopar Part Numbers
4221899 W/Intermittent, W/O Tilt

4221902 W/Intermittent, W/Tilt
(Nothing found online)

PM being sent with wiring.
 
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