I have been trying to find a good mechanic in my area (anywhere in socal if you have recommendations) to no avail so it looks like I have to tackle this myself. Here are my three problems
The car is hard to start - It takes 30-45s of cranking and lots of pumping the gas pedal to get the car to start at all. It seems like this could be an injector issue from my googling, but I want to get opinions based on everything that is happening.
Rough idle when cold - Once the car does start I have a super lumpy idle until it warms up and have to realy give the engine some beans to not stall when pulling away. Once the engine is warm the idle is nice and smooth, but it is still almost impossible to pull away without a decent bit of throttle regardless of how well I feather the clutch (and I DD a 45 hp beetle so I know damn well how to feather a clutch on a no torque car)
Once the engine is warm my oil pressure falls down to 1/4 the way up the gauge from the bottom and stays pegged right there. Im assuming that is lower than it should be but I honestly have no idea since I have 0 experience with these engines
When I do give it the beans once it is all nice and warm I have a little bit of a gas smell.
Where would you guys even recomend I start? The car did just sit on a dealer lot not moving or starting for moths, but the records show it has at least had a full flush of all of its fluids less than a hundred miles ago (though the oil doesnt look super clean tbf). Do I start at the basics and do a full general tuneup? Anything to watch out for specifically? I had honestly not planned to work on this car myself, but given the 0 luck I have had finding mechanics that will even take it in my area it looks like I'm going to have to.
OBD1 Codes Retrieval (Pre-1995 Cars and Trucks) How to get the code/s for Chrysler 1983-1995 vehicles: Within a period of 5 seconds, cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON. 1. Count the number of time the MIL (check engine lamp) on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of...
This seems to be a major area of confusion and time lost during install or diagnosing as to weather the Cam is truly aligned properly. There have been numerous threads over time that the OP said the Cam timing was verified to be correct (checked it 3-4 times) and after a 4 page thread and...
www.turbododge.com
3)Vacuum Line Routing/Condition
4)Fuel Pressure (Need to know if this is a TBI or Turbo car)
Get back to me with the vehicle info and I can give you more detailed info/assistance.
Its an 86 GLH-S. Only stored code is 15 (rough idle code from what I can tell). I need to check fuel pressure this weekend as well as my injectors, but I can at least say there are no obvious vacuum leaks (the lines are new but the routing is some hot garbage). Tbh, I am not use to cars with enough power to push through bad cam timing, so that never even crossed my mind. Ill check this weekend. I'll also set my static timing just to make sure. Anything else I should do to make sure I get a good baseline on this car to go off of?
You will have to verify the vacuum line routing and actual engine vacuum at a Manifold Source, the MAP Sensor is the Dominant Fuel Control Sensor, a lack of engine vacuum to the MAP = more air as far as the controller is concerned, more air (that is not really there) = more fuel = running Rich and Poorly.
Low engine vacuum can be caused by cracked/disconnected/collapsed vacuum lines, incorrect cam/Ignition timing, other engine mechanical issues.
If you are running excessively rich and the oil is fuel diluted that will cause a low oil pressure issue.
*The wiring may be different at the pump and the ASD Relay will be different year to year(84,85-87,88-90,91-up) but the test is basically the same. *MPFI (multi-port fuel injection) works on pressure differential across the injectors. *Since the injectors are exposed to manifold vacuum total...
I am posting this so I do not have to keep typing this over and over and will make it easier for members to find help on their own. Fault Code 13/14... No Change In Map Voltage From Key On To Engine Start Map Voltage Does Not Equal Throttle Position. Map Voltage Low Map Voltage High Map...
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CHECKING COOLANT TEMP SENSOR CALIBRATION
86 is still a "stupid" engine controller, whatever the CTS is reading it believes, a fault code will only be set if the CTS voltage goes to either extreme, anything in between the controller is providing fuel for that temp, if the circuit goes completely open the controller will supply enough fuel for -40 degrees.
87 - up they fixed this, if an open or shorted circuit in the CTS is detected the controller will ignore the CTS and put in a substitute reading of 104 degrees and turn on the CEL.
You may have an issue with compression in one of the cylinders. I recommend starting with a compression check.
An old trick used to be adding a squirt of oil thru the sparkplug hole to see if the rings need help, if the compression jumps up, it is probably the rings. If the oil does not help, it is probably a burnt valve. If you need to pass DEQ, then do not use this procedure as the excess oil can contaminate the catalytic converter! (Don't ask me how I know this!)
Use a flashlight to check for leakage at the injectors, old O-rings can get hard and brittle and leak. Also, look for leaks, even pinhole leaks in the fuel lines. It is best to do this when the motor is running. Check the fuel pump hoses coming out of the gas tank and at the fuel filter. When my '88 turbo Dodge was parked for awhile, it started dripping back there, when pressurized --- and there was even a small puddle. Naturally I replaced the fuel lines and the fuel filter at the same time. When replacing old fuel lines, be sure to get fuel injection hose that is rated for the fuel pressure Dodge uses, the spec # does not immediately come to my mind. Johnny Dodge has a good suggestion, there should be no gas present at the vacuum/boost side of the fuel pressure regulator.
So I went to a SDAC meetup last week and got some advice that my ignition timing is way out. That ha been confirmed with the light, so I want to fix that before I move on to other trouble shooting.
My problem is, the distributor was already loose and I cant get any kind of tool on it to get that bolt tightened back down once I adjust it. Any advice? I am pretty sure its a 1/2" bolt at least, but my wrenches are all too large to fit there with the limited space.
Once I get this done I will check my MAP, coolant temp sensor, and fuel regulator (where is it btw? I cant seem to find it). Unfortunately the fuel pressure will have to wait for next week as I just dont have the much time today and wont be using the car before then anyways.
Ok, so I figured out how I can tighten it down (with the engine off, I have just barely enough room to go between fan blades with a 1/2" wrench and just have to be careful not to burn myself). I set timing at 12 deg (BTDC?), turned off the car, tightened the distributor, and then reconfirmed it was still 12 deg once it warmed up again. This seems to have fixed my issue of having to pump pump the gas 10-15 times as it cranks to start. Seems to start real nicely now, but I still want to make sure I get this car to a good base line so I will check my fuel pressure, MAP, and coolant temp next.
EDIT: My timing is at 12 deg, but this is how my distributor is situated. I was told that the distributor drive (?) may be off by a tooth. Does it still look like thats the case with timing set right? I have no frame of refrence for how they normally face.
I have a very similar problem with '87 GLHS #325
Rough idle/won't idle.
It ran perfectly years ago with the stock logic module that came out of #956.
I had to remove it when I sold #956 and replaced that one with the MP logic module.
That one requires a timing adjustment, so I'll bet mine needs the timing adjusted.
But I'll also bet I might have a problem with the MAP sensor.
Someone once told me to check the red and blue harness connectors at the logic module.
He said to check for connector corrosion and loose fit.
He also said to open the LM and check for moisture.
So far, everyone has given great advice on what to look for.
I honestly dont know where the LM is.... I know that there is a box behind the battery, but I thought the LM was somewhere on the passenger side of the car. Being honest though, the car doesnt seem to be idling rough anymore after fixing the timing. Can ignition timing cause the car to run super rich as well? Realy hoping thats the issue causing the blowby I have tbh
Did you disconnect the coolant temp sensor near the thermostat before you checked and adjusted the timing?
Removing that turns the fan on and sets the RPM's for doing this.
Did you disconnect the coolant temp sensor near the thermostat before you checked and adjusted the timing?
Removing that turns the fan on and sets the RPM's for doing this.
Its been a while (been crazy busy with my weekend business), but I am finally getting everything in line to check my fuel pressure. I am following the guide linked above and have already ordered a C-4058, but I cant seem to locate the FPR...... Anyone mind linking me a picture of where it physically is? I tried following the vacuum diagram on the hood and honestly got lost. Also looking for recommendations on service manuals that may have a more detailed (and picture documented) explanation of the process as I don't know which fuel and vacuum lines I'm suppose to hook into.
The distributor is normally parallel to the block with the flat side being closest to the front of the car. The intermediate shaft drives the oil pump and the distributor. Sometimes the intermediate shaft is not positioned correctly when the timing belt is replaced, or if the oil pump itself has been replaced, the slot that drives the distributor can be out of position, thus causing the distributor to not be parallel to the block, but still be the correct timing of 12 degrees BTDC.
The Fuel Pressure Regulator is the mushroom-shaped thing on the fuel rail. The small return fuel line connects to it and the other side of the FPR has the vacuum/boost connection.
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The Fuel Pressure Regulator is the mushroom-shaped thing on the fuel rail. The small return fuel line connects to it and the other side of the FPR has the vacuum/boost connection.
There is a service valve on the fuel rail for you to connect your fuel pressure gauge.
You want to tee a vacuum/pressure gauge inline with the vacuum line that runs to the fuel pressure regulator.
*The wiring may be different at the pump and the ASD Relay will be different year to year(84,85-87,88-90,91-up) but the test is basically the same. *MPFI (multi-port fuel injection) works on pressure differential across the injectors. *Since the injectors are exposed to manifold vacuum total...
This seems to be a major area of confusion and time lost during install or diagnosing as to weather the Cam is truly aligned properly. There have been numerous threads over time that the OP said the Cam timing was verified to be correct (checked it 3-4 times) and after a 4 page thread and...
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tyvm for expounding on that for me. It helps a ton (as does that diagram). I already have the factory service manual set (the second of the two links) as well as a C-4058 on the way (should be checking my fuel pressure and injectors on thursday). As for that 2.2 turbo service manual, do I want that one, or the 2.2/2.5 EFI (or do I want both)?
Also, any chance anyone here has a picture of the cover of the Shelby factory service manual for the 86 GLH-S? I have been told its a good resource to have, but I cant even find a picture of what the cover looks like, much the less one for sale.
If you have a turbo vehicle then yes you want the turbo manual, EFI is throttle body injection.
The newer the cars become the more manuals/service info there is, for my 90 Daytona I have the 3 main manuals +, powertrain diagnostics, body control diagnostics, charging and speed control diagnostics, SRS diagnostics.
Yah. I have gotten too use to buying cars that my friends already know how to work on (or are extremely well documented online), so I don't really buy much media for them. For my car, any other manuals I need for a complete set?
Also, any chance anyone here has a picture of the cover of the Shelby factory service manual for the 86 GLH-S? I have been told its a good resource to have, but I cant even find a picture of what the cover looks like, much the less one for sale.
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I can post a copy of the front cover here.
It's from the 1989 Shelby Parts catalog so its a small photo.
I can also post a full size picture of the 1987 GLHS cover which is the same style.
Here's some info on the 86 GLHS including the unique parts list:
The only pictures I have of the service manuals is a group shot that doesn't show the GLHS and one of the 87.
Tyvm for the info NAJ, and ty for the pictures Jim. I'll put an ebay alert out for one now that I know whats im looking for.
Unfortunately I didn't end up getting the day off today so I haven't had a chance to check the fuel pressure yet. Quick question though, do I hook up the gauge with the engine cold or hot? I figure with pressure in the rail, you would shoot gass everywhere trying to get it screwed on in that tiny space, but at the same time you need a hot engine to get a good reading typucaly (or is that not an issue with our EFI?)
Also, my vacuum routing is fucked. Any idea what was disconnected here? I'm having trouble reading the diagram tbh
Ok that smaller metal pipe comes from the top of the of the tank and connects to the roll-over valve.
The other end connects to the purge canister I believe.
I'll check the service manual later.
BTW: If you're smelling gas, that would be a source.
Here's the 87 GLHS vacuum solenoid pictorial I made, along with the CS1135 vacuum routing label for the 87 GLHS.
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