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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all! I haven't posted much, but I've spent a lot of time on Turbo Dodge since I picked up my GLHS in 2018, can't thank you guys enough for the knowledge shared here, this project would have been much more difficult without it.

Here's my recently "completed" '86 GLHS, #187, it has 50,000 original miles, numbers matching, modified in the spirit of Caroll Shelby.

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Everything I've changed:

Ported exhaust
Turbonetics 2.5” Swing valve
.63 turbine housing
Stainless waste gate puck
Exhaust Studs + copper nuts
Titanium wrapped down pipe
2.5” high flow exhaust
Wideband o2 sensor
Refurbished turbine housing
Braided steel turbo oil and coolant lines
EGR delete
Custom muffler
HEP
Plug wires
Heim joint shift linkage
Short shifter
Front axle
Fuel tank
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Mopar Performance ECU
AEM Wideband gauge
AEM Boost gauge
+20% injectors
Billet fuel rail
Aeromotive AFPR (45psi base pressure)
PCV air/oil separator
52mm throttle body
K&N drop-in air filter
Ported intake
Intake studs + copper nuts
Champion RN9YC plugs (.030”)
Nippon Denso 90amp alternator
Lightened alternator bracket
Starter heat shield
Solenoid filters
Ground cables
SLH1 brakes (caliper, brackets, pads, lines, master cylinder)
Billet vacuum manifold block
Silicon vacuum lines
Carroll Shelby signed map light
Rewrapped OEM steering wheel
MOMO wheel w/ Shelby horn button
MOMO shift knob
Restored trim
Restored headliner
Bumper tuck
Restored valve cover + Mobil plaque
Strut tower bar
Reupholstered front seats
 

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Cool ride!

What is the C'clamp in the passenger side motor mount used for? Is that holding a ground wire?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool ride!

What is the C'clamp in the passenger side motor mount used for? Is that holding a ground wire?
Yea, one of those temporary solutions that became semi-permanent 😅 – I'll find a better solution soon. Haven't had any luck finding battery cable clips that would work to clamp the motor mount, and I'd rather not drill a hole in the motor mount to bolt it on.
 

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I hear you! I have been looking for that exact same grounding setup as my GLHS strap at that location is frayed and an eye sore.

Unfortunately I have yet to find a good stock looking solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks nice! Good choice on the Enkei RPF1's. Like many tasteful mods you chose.
Thank you! They're great wheels, from what I found the lightest you can get at that price point, well made and they look great. I have the original centurions on-hand as well, they've been freshly powder coated, but I usually only put them on for car shows, they don't know how to handle the added power very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I hear you! I have been looking for that exact same grounding setup as my GLHS strap at that location is frayed and an eye sore.

Unfortunately I have yet to find a good stock looking solution.
I'll let you know if I find one!
 

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I almost pulled the trigger on a set, but the part that was a deal breaker for me was the $50 extra per wheel cap! What a rip! Do your wheels have the SBC coating on them, or just mill finish?
I ended up buying a set of custom made 15X8" 2 piece wheels for mine. Forged centers as well. Those wheels are tough, but a massive pothole will still bend those wheel lips.
On another GLHT I own, I ended up finding a set of the GLHS prototype wheels (Fittipaldi Aero's). About one person in 500 that looks at the car, knows what they are.
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Car Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I almost pulled the trigger on a set, but the part that was a deal breaker for me was the $50 extra per wheel cap! What a rip! Do your wheels have the SBC coating on them, or just mill finish?
I ended up buying a set of custom made 15X8" 2 piece wheels for mine. Forged centers as well. Those wheels are tough, but a massive pothole will still bend those wheel lips.
On another GLHT I own, I ended up finding a set of the GLHS prototype wheels (Fittipaldi Aero's). About one person in 500 that looks at the car, knows what they are.
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Those wheels are awesome! I hadn't heard of them. Did you have to do a hub conversion? It looks like VW guys run them a lot in the 4x100 pattern, or did you manage to get a set in 5x100 and that's why they're GLHS prototypes?
 

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No not 4x100 but they are 5x100 bolt and correct 57.1mm HC pattern. A guy originally had them on a Toyota Celica All-Trac. A car IMO, WAY ahead of it's time. Two were restored due to having some slight pot hole damage, and two are original. All in excellent shape.
You can see how the Centurians derived from this wheel. CSA obviously couldn't make the deal with Fittipaldi for whatever reason, so they designed a wheel that looked like the Aero without the centercap covering the lugs. The Aero predates the Centurian wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No not 4x100 but they are 5x100 bolt and correct 57.1mm HC pattern. A guy originally had them on a Toyota Celica All-Trac. A car IMO, WAY ahead of it's time. Two were restored due to having some slight pot hole damage, and two are original. All in excellent shape.
You can see how the Centurians derived from this wheel. CSA obviously couldn't make the deal with Fittipaldi for whatever reason, so they designed a wheel that looked like the Aero without the centercap covering the lugs. The Aero predates the Centurian wheel.
That's very cool, I agree the All-Trac is a great car!
 

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Love the steering wheel! I would like to do this mod to my 1985 GLH. Were there any special modifications needed to make the steering wheel fit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Love the steering wheel! I would like to do this mod to my 1985 GLH. Were there any special modifications needed to make the steering wheel fit?
Yep! Going to use a lot of keywords in this post so folks can find it through Google. Bolded the relevant information for quick reading!

To fit a MOMO steering wheel to my 1986 Shelby Dodge GLHS ( L-Body, Omni ), I ordered a MOMO steering wheel hub adapter for the Dodge Neon/Viper and GM models, this matches the spline count. The OEM steering wheel fits within the steering column covers, but the MOMO adapter butts up against the covers, so you'll either want to grind down the outer lip of the MOMO adapter, or do what I did and chop about .25" of material from the column covers (going to grab replacement covers when I come across some, for when I want the OEM steering wheel).

Additionally, you'll want to grab either a compatible steering wheel spacer, or get a quick disconnect steering wheel hub. If you don't get one of these the steering wheel will hit the dashboard above the gauges, and negate any small safety benefit gained from the "crumple zone" in the MOMO hub adapter.

One problem that I did not solve is getting the horn to work. I attempted to wire the horn and use the conductive ring that some MOMO adapters come with, (not sure if it came w/ my neon/viper adapter, or the eclipse adapter I tried first (eclipse doesn't work)) and it ended up being too close to the turn signal mechanism, preventing my turn signal from working. I plan to add a horn button elsewhere for the safety benefits.

I highly recommend this mod! The fabric on our seats is fragile, and the large OEM steering wheel would force me to slide across the seat covers, increasing risk of wear and eventual tears in the fabric over time. It's also great to have options, I can swap between wheels, and it's a nice theft deterrent, hard to steal a car without a steering wheel! I always lock my steering wheel away separate from the car, just to be safe.

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
And, in case anyone is wondering, I had the horn button custom made by these folks. They were great to work with, if anyone wants a Carroll Shelby "CS" horn button like mine I'd be happy to send you the design file.

 
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