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I am starting this thread over with my new account. I have never been able to recover my other account with new password.

I had to patch the frame rail. It's into good metal on both ends and through the center. Cut out the rusty stuff, treated it and painted it underneath. New poly bushings, have new rebuilt konis going on here soon.
 

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Pressed in new ball joints. I can't get the boot to go over the snap ring. It's says it's supposed to be flush with control arm. Any ideas?
A socket over the boot and then tapped on (but not so hard as to rip/tear the boot didn't do it? It seems that in the past I used some aftermarket joints and boots and MIGHT have had the same issue, I just bolted down the control arm and the boot was compressed enough to meet my personal 'good enough' standards. I wasn't as happy as I wanted to be but needed to move along and just let it go.
 

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I pressed it out at the shop with a little bit of rigging. Putting them in was easy. Just used a soft mallet. Buffed the inside really well before I smacked them in. I can't remember how the brake line goes on. Is this correct or do I have the brakes lines on the wrong side?
 

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J, you have to flip the banjo fitting over or it won't seal.

"How much force did you have to put on the hubs with your press?", is what I actually meant.
 

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Pressing them out wasn't that difficult. I had to cut a piece of pipe the same diameter and then put it in a press. Luckily my uncle is a machinist. Hes helped me a ton. I am having a difficult time with my driver side Koni. It will not turn when I try and turn the wheel. Does anyone have a diagram on how the Koni strut should be assembled. I think it might be the bearing.
 

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I got the sway bar on today with new bushings from Johnny. I didn't have any trouble with them "squishing". The bar moves freely. I am still trying to figure out why my driver side strut won't turn. I ordered the maintenance supplement off ebay. Hopefully it gives a good diagram of the strut assembly.
 

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I pressed it out at the shop with a little bit of rigging. Putting them in was easy. Just used a soft mallet. Buffed the inside really well before I smacked them in. I can't remember how the brake line goes on. Is this correct or do I have the brakes lines on the wrong side?
I believe you might have the Right hose on the left side or vice-a-versa here. At the very least, as indicated earlier, the fitting is indeed installed upside down.
 

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Mocking the engine up. I can't figure out what is out of sequence on the denso alternator bolt. I also figured out the problem with the struts. I machined an 1/8th inch spacer and it now turns really smoothly. I also got the steering rack out. I dont know if I should have this one rebuilt at Steer and Gear here in Columbus or buy a reman. Any advice would be good on that too. I would like to have as much original on it as possible. With that being said, I made another bone head move and tried to remove the power steering gear with a three prong puller. Yep, I bent it. If anyone has a pulley I would be grateful. Anyways, hope to get the front wheels back on this week and begin the rear. Fresh Konis, new fuel pump (Walbro?), rear brakes and brake lines.
 

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I am trying to find the correct axles for an A555 trans swap. Where is the best place to get these? I know 87-90 axles but should they both be drivers side? is there any quality difference in suppliers? Thanks for any input.
 

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The deal on the axles for an L-body is that most people eliminate the equal length shaft setup because the intermediate shaft bearing is now prone to failure and is not available any longer. The intermediate shaft is also very often so rusted to the axle that they can be VERY difficult to seperate w/o ruining the slinger. If you get one like this the best friend you will have is a torch to get it hot and a generous amount of CRC Freeze-Off or other suitable penetrating oil...and a TON of patience or you will ruin the thin metal slinger.

So to eliminate that setup you get Omni automatic axles, like for a 90 automatic car. That will give you the long un-equal length axle you need on the passenger side to eliminate the equal length setup and intermediate shaft assembly completely. And you get a short, drivers side for the drivers side, also like for a 90 automatic l-body car.

As an option, if you want to keep the equal length setup, and the L-body intermediate shaft setup is not unique to that car, all you have to do is remove the transmission end output shaft yoke of the intermediate shaft assembly at the U-joint (cardan joint), the piece that goes into the transmission. And then replace it with an output shaft yoke from a car that was equipped with and A520 or A555. It will have the correct spline count and size shaft, and it will connect directly to the U-joint you already have in place. I've done this twice and except for the obvious A555 that was in the car, it makes it look even more stock appearing.

The original intermediate shaft bearing and bracket was mopar # 5212 961

 

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